22 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ January 6,1887. 
or Scewarton system, which, has been in use in Scotland for at least two 
centuries, perfected there, and at the present moment has not been 
improved upon. It is true there are hives which some claim as late in¬ 
ventions, such as the Carr Stewarton and the Heddon hive, but any¬ 
thing of worth in these hives is not new, and what is new is not of 
much worth. Forty years ago I had fifty of the square type of Stewar¬ 
ton or Lanarkshire hives, and with but slight difference is the same hive 
I mostly use and recommend, and which I gave instructions how to make 
in a late number, and if adopted by “ Notts Bee-keeper ” and wrought 
according to my instructions I fear not but his Cyprian or Syrian bees 
will *‘ do itat least they have done it. and well too, with — A 
Lanarkshire Bee-keeper. 
TRADE CATALOGUES RECEIVED. 
James Dickson & Sons, 108, Eastgate Street, Chester.— Catalogue <f 
Vegetable and Flower Seeds, 1887. 
« * Robert Veitch & Son, 54, High Street, Exeter .— Catalogue of Kitchen 
Garden and Flower Seeds, 1887. 
William Paul & Son, Waltham Cross— Catalogue of Vegetable, Flower, 
and Agricultural Seeds. __ 
All correspondence should be directed either to “ The 
Editor ” or to “ The Publisher.” Letters addressed to Dr. 
Hogg or members of the staff often remain unopened un¬ 
avoidably. We request that no one will write privately 
to any of our correspondents, as doing so subjects them to 
unjustifiable trouble and expense. 
Correspondents should not mix up on the same sheet questions 
relating to Gardening and those on Bee subjects, and should 
never send more than two or three questions at once. All 
articles intended for insertion should be written on one side of 
the paper only. We cannot reply to questions through the 
post, and we do not undertake to return rejected communica¬ 
tions. 
The Eucharis Mite (IF. E. P.). —The bulb you have sent,is seriously 
attacked with the above pest. We shall publish an article on the subject 
soon, perhaps next week. 
Exhibiting Rhubarb (.Veto Year). —Rhubarb is certainly not a fruit any 
more than Seakale is, and cooking and sweetening it cannot make it a fruit. 
It can be staged in a collection of vegetables, unless specially excluded, 
committees of shows having the right to make stipulations excluding 
Rhubarb or anything ebe from any particular class. First-class Rhubarb 
would carry more points than Carrots at this time of the year with most 
good judges ; but if superior Carrots were staged against inferior Rhubarb, 
then the same judges would give preference to the former. 
Loosening Peach and Nectarine Trees from Wall (A Foreigner). —It is 
an old and excellent practice. Loosening the trees from the wall keeps 
them cooler and insures more perfect rest than when secured to the wall, 
retards the flowering considerably, besides facilitating pruning operations, 
making sure that the branches do not suffer from being too tight, and 
allowing the rearrangement of the branches and shoots so as to preserve 
the symmetry and equal distribution of the wood. It entails considerable 
labour, but it pays in the crops, the credit of the cultivator, and the health 
and longevity of the trees. 
Snow and Vegetation (A Young Gardener). —Snow is only injurious, 
so far as we know, when its weight is so great as to break branches from 
trees, or bend them down so that they cannot very w<Tl be placed in position 
again; also when it crushes and in that way spoils any plants that cannot 
resist its weight. For the reason indicated it is often advisable to promptly 
shake the snow from slender Conifers and brittle trees and plants. By 
promptly we mean before the snow melts ; but in the great storm that 
visited the south of England on the Sunday night following Christmas Day 
the snow was not dry, hence adhered closely on whatever it fell. On that 
account, together with the time of the fall, it could not be removed even if 
the necessity for shaking it off was recognised, hence the injury that was 
done was practically unavoidable. ,To low-growing crops generally snow 
is the best of protectors against severe frost, and if they are buried for 
weeks they do not suffer through the interment. In some districts in which 
severe frost has prevailed the absence of snow is much regretted by both 
farmers and gardeners, the former fearing their Turnips and Wheat will 
suffer, the latter being uncomfortable about the exposure of their Cabbages, 
Winter Lettuces, Spinach, and other crops that would be safer if under the 
snow. 
Nitrate of Soda for Vine Borders {J. D.). —It is not usual to apply 
nitrate of soda to Vine borders, nor is it generally advisable, as ample 
saline matter is had from the manures applied, especially when the drain¬ 
ings of strbleB and cow byres are used. It may, however, be given to weak 
Vines or those that have small foliage, and with advantage, applying it at 
the rate of 1 lb. per square rod in March or early April, which is sufficient 
for the season. We have also known nitrate of potash (saltpetre) to be 
used with good effect, and in much the same way as nitrate of soda acts by 
increasing the vigour of the Vine?, especially the foliage. It should be 
applied in spring and at the rate of 1 lb. to a square rod (30J square yards). 
Only one of the substances named must be given at a time, but both are 
most efficacious in combination with other substances. Be careful to 
dispose it evenly over the surface. 
Zonal Pelargonium Leaves Spotted (O. E .).—The leaves are spotted in 
consequence of imperfect elaboration of the sap or of moisture being con¬ 
densed upon them and remaining upon them for some time. The soil is 
also too rich and wet. The only remedy is to keep them rather drier at the 
roots, not watering until the soil becomes dry, but not allowing the foliage 
to become limp before giving a supply, when it should be thorough. A little 
air should be admitted in all but very severe weather, so as to prevent a 
close -vitiated atmosphere, and to prevent moisture accumulating on the 
foliage as well as to cause that to evaporate and assimilate the sap. To 
effect this you will need a temperature of 50° to 55°, with an advance of 5° 
to 10° from sun heat. With careful watering the plants will soon recover, 
and may be given liquid manure occasionally, which will much invigorate 
them, causing them to outgrow their present condition. They require 
a warmer and more genial condition of the atmosphere. 
Seakale from Roots and Seeds (D. Marsden ),—Plants are easily raised 
by both methods, but the largest and most successful growers of roots and 
strong crowns for sale, for forcing, almost invariably adopt the latter 
method of increase. When they raise plants from seed it is usually with 
the object of affording a supply of small clean “ thongs ” or roots for 
cuttings. These are cut in lengths of about 5 inches when the Seakale is 
taken up in late autumn, the upper end of each cutting being severed 
straight across the lower end slantingly. They are then packed in layers 
with leaf mould. Cocoa-nut fibre refuse, ashes, or light soil, with the thick 
ends outwards, the whole forming a stack or cone, and covered with litter 
in sharp weather. Buds form at the ends of the cuttings, and these, if 
planted in rich soil in spring and encouraged to grow freely through the 
summer, develops fine crowns in the autumn of mon value to the growers 
than are seedling plants, though these latter often form very useful crowns 
for forcing. 
Pear Trees not Fruiting ( Chrysanthemum ).—The trees making plenty 
of wood and flowering well, but perfecting no fruit, indicates that the buds 
are not well matured, which may arise from the trees being crowded with 
wood, so that air and light cannot influence the elaboration and assimilation 
of the sap and its concentration on the fruit buds. Being sr near the 
attainment of your desire, we should, in the coming season, merely thin the 
wood during growth, so as to admit light and air to all the parts left, the 
side Bhoots being stopped in June or not later than early July to four or 
five leaves, leaving the leading shoots entire, which should be cut back in 
autumn as necessary to preserve the symmetry of the trees, but the less the 
better; the side shoots being stopped through the season and superfluous 
ones removed, and in autumn cut back shoots not having formed spur buds- 
to as near the main stems as practicable, being careful not to injure the 
blossom buds. This practice would in all probalility have the desired 
effect, your case being different from those in which the trees have an excess- 
of vigour and do not form fruit buds so sparingly. In the latter case root- 
pruning is advisable, and is best done in autumn, but it may be done now 
or as soon as the weather is favourable, up to the time the trees swell their 
buds, forming a trench one-third the distance from the stem the trees are- 
in height, and below the roots, so that all the roots except the small fibres 
extending into the trench are cut through. Then fill the trench again and 
make it firm. Surface-rooting should be encouraged by removing the 
surface soil down to the roots and supplying fresh loam to which has been, 
added a fourth of well-decayed manure, but the roots must not be covered 
deeper than 3 inches, and during summer supply water in dry periods. 
Attend to the growths as advised, and we think your trees will afterwards 
fruit satisfactorily. “ Tapping ” is a practice not to be recommended. The 
chief thing is to keep the growths thin and encourage surface roots. 
Dressing Vines (IF. D. K .).—When you prune the Vines cut them 
closely, including portions of old spurs, for in these mealy bug and other 
insects often establish themselves. All loose bark from the Vines should 
be removed, even for an inch or two into the border, being careful to remove 
all loose material from about the spurs. Then wash the glass and wood¬ 
work thoroughly with a strong solution of softsoap and hot water. For 
this purpose 3 ozs. of softsoap may be dissolved in each gallon of water. 
The whole of the walls if they have been limewashed should be scraped so 
as to remove all loose portions, and then thoroughly washed afterwards with, 
the softsoap solution. This being done paint the woodwork, wires, walls,, 
in fact everything in the house in which insects can secrete themselves, 
with petroleum. While doing this be careful that the petroleum does not 
fall upon the Vines. The Vines should now be washed with a solution of 
softsoap, 2 ozs. to each gallon of water as hot as you can bear your hands 
in, or a solution of Fir tree oil or L‘mon oil, both good for this purpose,, 
may be used at the strength advised by the vendors in each case. Old 
hollow spurs must be well cleaned out with the knife', then wash them with 
a small st'ff brush. The Vines can now be tied to the wires, the walls 
limewashed—if they have not been previously done—using the lime as hot as 
possible, and in a 3-gallon bucket of this stir one pint of petroleum. If you 
can paint thq wires and woodwork afterwards with lead paint do so, but 
allow the petroleum to thoroughly evaporate first, which will take, say a 
week, or it will turn the paint yellow. While the petroleum is evaporating 
remove the surface of the border, in fact this should be done at once after 
cleaning the house. Brush all loose material from the surface of the 
border, and then syringe it liberally with 1 oz. of petroleum to each gallon 
of water. Syringe alternately into the bucket or can and on to the border- 
The surface soil should be removed down to the roots, brushing from 
amongst them all small particles. Top-dress the border with a compost of 
fibry loam, manure, wood ashes, or soot, and bones. To five barrow¬ 
fuls of the first add one of manure, one of wood ashes, and about one-sixtht 
inch potful of half-inch bones, with the fine portion left in to each harrow¬ 
ful of soil. If you have to remove much surface soil you may also add one 
barrowful of old lime rubbish to each five barrowfuls of loam required. If 
the border is poor and the Vines lack vigour add two barrowfuls of manure 
instead of one ; you can also mix with the compost a little artificial manure- 
You should be the best judge of the condition of the border and how to act 
in this matter, but if we can aid you in any particular we shall be pleased 
to do so. The pipes must be cleaned and painted with lampblack. 
