70 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ January 27,1887. 
being somewhat disappointed that the more scientific features have 
received so little attention. Certain it is that nothing directly bearing 
upon the subject is to be found in the most detailed works on chemistry, 
yet all are clear that within certain limits iron under the influence of 
heat is repulsive to oxygen. I observe, so far, that none have attributed 
any hardening effect produced upon the bars by the absorption of car¬ 
bonised vapours ; at any rate, I can attribute the brightness of our bars 
to no other property. 
I hardly think Mr. Riddell will find a majority of stokeholes so per¬ 
fectly dry that an idle boiler would rapidly yield to the powerful 
influences of oxygen in a cool state.—E Burton. 
TUBEROUS BEGONIAS FOB BEDDING. 
That Tuberous Begonias are capital plants for beautifying the 
flower beds in summer is an undisputed fact. Those persons not 
having yet tried them for this purpose should procure a stock of 
plants, treat them well, and they will soon wish to increase the 
stock rather than otherwise. Now their cultivation is better under¬ 
stood no wonder they increase in numbers. What could be more 
lovely than the fine collection of Messrs. J. Laing & Son during 
the month of September or even October, where they grow in 
masses out of doors, of all shades of colour, forms, and habits ? 
Amateurs would do well to take this plant in hand for the deco¬ 
ration of their beds or borders in a small way, as it is particularly 
well adapted to them. Its chief point with them is the small 
amount of space required for storing in the winter compared with 
that required for Pelargoniums. Many people fail to obtain good 
results with them as bedding plants owing to the way in which the 
plants are treated. The greatest mistake which can be made is that 
of growing the plants in the spring as large as possible in heat, with 
the idea that they will fill the beds more quickly. Nothing 
could be more directly in opposition to what is required than such a 
method of preparing the plants. Treated thus, the plants are tall, 
soft in growth, and unable to bear either wind or sun, and after 
receiving such a check they never make any progress, but the leaves 
fall off until nothing but the bare stems remain. The cry is then, 
“ Oh ! Begonias will not do in this locality for bedding, the climate 
does not suit them,” whereas it is entirely, in many instances, owing 
to the treatment they receive that failure occurs. Having used 
them as bedding plants during the last four seasons with good 
results, I will detail my practice in their culture, with the hope 
that it may be suggestive to others. 
These Begonias are equally good for planting on rockeries as for 
the ordinary beds, particularly if those plants with a drooping habit 
be selected for this purpose. The warm nooks and corners to be 
found in rockeries suits them admirably, and a fine show they make 
in such positions. 
A stock of plants can readily be procured by raising seedlings. 
This, to many persons, is the most interesting manner, as the novelty 
of raising seedlings and watching for new varieties is most in¬ 
teresting, but where immediate effect is required in the decoration 
of the flower garden, one-year-old plants are the best to start with. 
These can easily be procured at a reasonable rate from any grower 
of this class of plant for sale. Such plants should be obtained any 
time during February or early in March. Place them at once in 
shallow boxes about 3 inches deep, having holes at the bottom for 
the outlet of moisture. At the bottom of the box place some 
rough leaves, then a layer of the following compost—two parts 
fibry loam, one part decayed leaves, a free admixture of sharp silver 
sand, and alight sprinkling of finely ground bones. On this lay the 
tubers, about 2 inches apart, covering them lightly with the same 
soil. Do not give any water, as the soil should be sufficiently moist 
for the tubers to keep plump and cause fresh roots to form. Place 
the box in a vinery or a Peach house just started, or any such 
structure where the temperature is kept at about 50° during the 
night with a rise of 10° during the day. As soon as roots form see 
that the plants do not suffer owing to the soil becoming excessively 
dry, but give water as required. When growth has commenced 
remove the plants to a cooler structure than those will be by the 
time the tubers have started into growth. The best position for 
them then and onwards is a cold frame, placing the box so that the 
plants will be close to the glass, which will prevent their becoming 
drawn. Ventilate gradually at first, taking care that cold draughts 
do not affect them, or a check will take place in the steady growth 
so desirable. Care of course will be taken to protect them from 
frost, and gradually inure them to tlie air, that the lights can be 
altogether removed during the day, and at night also they may 
remain off during the latter part of May when there is no fear 
of frost. 
Towards the end of April, if all has gone well, the tubers will 
be furnished freely with roots, and several strong growths will have 
started from each plant, that more room will be required for both 
the roots and tops, also as before, time to plant them in the beds. 
They will be matted together, which causes a check when the plants 
are transferred to their summer quarters. Some people pot the 
plants for the purpose of planting them out in the beds. This is a 
great mistake, as the roots often reach the sides of the pot, take an 
inward direction, and at times become root-bound ; in consequence 
they do not take kindly to the soil when they are planted in the 
beds. Transfer them to similar boxes, giving more space between 
the plants, using the same soil, except that a few more bones may 
be added. Grown in boxes thus the roots are not cramped in any 
way, but all have an outward tendency, and can be lifted with a 
good ball of soil attached to each. In such a manner no check is 
caused by transplanting to the beds. After the removal of the 
plants to other boxes, return them to the frames, which should be 
kept rather close for a few days until new growth commences, when 
air may be freely admitted as before, and water regularly given to 
the roots. Plants so treated cannot fail to produce satisfactory 
results. 
From now until the first week in February is the best time for 
sowing the seed, which should be done in pans, well drained, and 
filled with sandy soil in which plenty of decayed leaves are incor¬ 
porated. On a fine surface sow the seed carefully, and cover it 
lightly with sand, having previously soaked the soil in the pan by 
placing it in water up to the rim ; the water coming through the 
drainage gradually soaks the whole mass. Cover the pan with a 
square of glass. Over this place a layer of moss, which assists in 
retaining the moisture in the soil, thus lessening to a minimum the 
water applied to the soil until after the seedlings appear. Place the 
pan where it will have a gentle bottom heat, a hotbed or propagating 
house answers capitally. If kept shaded and moist the seeds will 
quickly germinate. As the seedlings appear above the soil re¬ 
move the moss from the glass, giving air gradually by tilting the 
glass on one side. When the plants make two leaves place the pan 
on a shelf close to the glass in a Cucumber or Melon house, or other 
structure where a temperature of from 65° to 75° is maintained. 
As soon as the plants are large enough to handle prick them off into 
pans, using soil composed mainly of decayed leaves, sand, and a 
small portion of loam. Return them to their former position near 
the glass, water carefully. When growth is being freely made 
remove them gradually to cooler quarters until they are in the cold 
frames, when they may be transferred to boxes, using the same sort 
of soil as advised previously for the older plants. At this stage no 
shading will be required, previously a little would be necessary in 
the case of the tender seedlings.—E. Molyneux. 
(To be continued.) 
SABAL BLACKBURNrANA. 
Fan-leaved Palms are general favourites with cultivators, and for 
large conservatories or winter gardens they make grand specimens. The 
genus Sabal includes several species that are especially valued for this 
purpose, and some handsome examples may be seen in the leading 
botanic and private gardens both in Britain and on the Continent. 
S. umbraculifera is one of the best known ; S. Adansoni is also occa¬ 
sionally seen, while a third favourite, S. Blackburniana, is represented 
by noble plants in several collections. That shown in our illustration 
(fig. 11) is a specimen of S. Blackburniana grown in a corner of the 
great conservatory at Chatsworth, where it has for many years formed 
an object of much beauty. It is 20 feet high and nearly as much in 
diameter, with abundant healthy well developed leaves, deeply cut into 
sharp and regularly spreading segments. Rising above the Ferns and 
miscellaneous plants grouped in the bed it has quite a majestic appear¬ 
ance. 
S. Blackburniana is a native of tropical regions, but like most of its 
genus it has a good constitution, thriving with moderate attention and 
enduring a lower temperature than many Palms. Small plants can be 
grown in pots, employing a substantial loam, but the larger specimens 
are better either in tubs or planted out. 
ADIANTUM FARLEYENSE. 
This Fern is one of the most beautiful of the whole genus, yet we 
frequently find it in anything but good condition, and is pronounced by 
some growers to be rather more particular as to its requirements. That 
statement I agree with, for I have seen it in a very unsatisfactory con¬ 
dition where "most other plants have been well understood, and its 
stubbornness in refusing to grow satisfactorily could not be accounted 
for. When its requirements are sufficiently understood, and it receives 
the right treatment, it grows vigorously. It appears to thrive best 
when treated rather differently from the majority of Ferns. It particu¬ 
larly objects to overpotting if it is not in a good condition. I have 
taken plants in hand which have previously refused to do well, and as 
