February 8,1887. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
87 
though they want some more fresh loam. I have come to the conclu¬ 
sion that the real cause of shanking was deficient root-action, and the 
remedy is to turn out the old soil and supply some new. I also believe 
that many Vines do not have half enough water. The last few years 
I have taken several first prizes with Grapes out of the old house with no 
shanked berries.— A Grape Lover. 
CHRYSANTHEMUM MDLLE. ELISE DORDAN. 
Pompon varieties of Chrysanthemums do not increase so fast as 
some of the other sections, anil novelties of exceptional merit are com¬ 
paratively scarce. That illustrated in fig. 13, Mdlle. Elise Dordan, was 
exhibited at most of the leading metropolitan shows in November, and 
has been awarded several certificates, several of the nurserymen who 
make a specialty of Chrysanthemums having exhibited capital examples 
of it. The blooms are very symmetrically formed like the well known 
Model of Perfection, but larger, of a clear bright rosy tint. The plant 
Fig. IS.—Chrysanthemum Mdlle. Elise Dordan. 
is of good habit and very free, rendering it especially useful for 
decorative purposes. 
SCOTCH CHAMPION POTATO. 
In the Journal recently (p. 41) Mr. Murphy, Clonmel, w r rites about the 
degeneration of the Scotch Champion Potato, and wishes correspondents to 
name the most likely sort to take its place as a field crop. Allow me to 
call attention to White Fortyfold for this purpose. This Potato was 
raised or selected by Mr. John Clark of Brodie Castle, Morayshire, N.B. 
It was afterwards exhibited at some of the London shows some years 
ago by Mr. Robert Farquhar of Fyvie Castle, Aberdeenshire, who, I 
believe, was awarded a certificate for it, and I think the stock of it was 
subsequently placed in the hands of an Aberdeen seedsman. Some three 
or four years ago I was favoured with a few tubers from the raiser, and 
have grown a few under rather unfavourable circumstances as a garden 
crop. Last year it turned out better in a fresh position, and I have saved 
the whole stock to give it a fair trial this year as a field crop, with the 
object of its taking the place of the Champion. It is certainly of superior 
quality, being less coarse and with much w r hiter flesh than the Champion. 
—R. INGLIS. 
First allow me to thank •• Thinker ” for his kindly observation, which 
I am hopeful echoes that of thousands and thousands of Englishmen and 
Scotchmen. “ A very widespread desire exists now amongst all classes 
and creeds for the improvement of Ireland.A practical 
way of doing good would be for persons who have strong-growing 
varieties of Potatoes that they think are adapted to the Irish soil and 
climate, to send samples to Mr. Murphy and let him test them.” I have 
no objection honestly to carry out this view, and have already received 
a few selections of varieties, one being from Messrs. Carter—new 
varieties. But it is not merely new varieties we want ; we wish to know 
of strong-growing robust kinds, tolerably free from blight, and of good 
quality, that will be fit for use from September to February. The 
Magnum Bonum is good after that time. Correspondents in other parts 
of Ireland might do the same.— W. J. Murphy, Clonmel. 
TUBEROUS BEGONIAS FOR BEDDING. 
( Continved from page 70.) 
The position which the plants are to occupy during the summer 
is the next consideration. An open one is the best where the full 
benefit of the sun’s rays can be had, still protected, so that east or 
south-westerly wind cannot injure them. The former interferes 
with their early growth, whde the latter often causes injury to the 
plants in the autumn by breaking the branches and quite spoiling 
some plants. The preparation of the soil in the bed is the next 
consideration. If possible, this should be wholly new, and where a 
few plants only are used there is no reason why this cannot be done, 
as a little extra labour is amply repaid by the results which are 
attained. The mixture best suited is as follows—strong fibry loam 
chopped roughly two parts, one of leaf soil, one of the materials 
from a spent Mushroom bed, with a small quantity of finely ground 
bones and soot. Place this on to the depth of 1 foot. Below the 
soil should be well broken up 1 to 2 feet deep. Where the soil is 
heavy this admits of heavy rains passing quickly away, for although 
Begonias like plenty of moisture when actively growing, they are 
adverse to stagnant moisture. Under the prepared soil a layer of 
well-decayed farmyard manure or old hotbed materials may be placed. 
Into this the roots will penetrate and derive much benefit, but 
where a large number of plants have to be accommodated much 
more simple means have to be adopted. The soil should be broken 
up to a good depth, and if at all strong in character a dressing of 
horse manure and leaves will be an advantage, but where sandy soil 
predominates cow manure will be best. To both sorts of soil add 
some bones and soot, and with the heavy soil some leaf mould will 
much assist the plants at starting time. 
The year-old plants may be placed 1 foot apart each way, 
except where they are small, then 10 inches will do. It is a mistake 
to overcrowd them, as they grow weakly and cannot show theii 
flowers to advantage when huddled together. They do not flower 
so freely, and they are more liable to injury by winds in the autumn 
owing to the soft growth. The soil in the boxes being well soaked 
previous to planting, good balls of soil will adhere to each, thus 
avoiding a check in transferring them to the beds. Plant deeply 
enough to cover the old soil about the plant. The seedlings may 
be placed closer together according to their size and habit of growth, 
as this can be determined by this time whether they be upright or 
drooping in character. 
The time for planting must be determined by the locality. In 
the south of England the last week in May will be soon enough, 
while in more northern counties the middle of June will be preferable. 
No matter where, it is wise to take precautions to protect them 
from frost by covering the bed each night after planting for a time 
with some tiffany, which can be easily placed over at night and 
removed in the morning. Even if the weather be hot and dry this 
is beneficial as shade for a few days until the roots have started 
into the new soil. If the soil be dry at planting time give a good 
soaking with water afterwards to settle the soil firmly about the 
plants. 
Some people will perhaps say by planting so wide apart a large 
space of bare soil is seen in the beds until the plants touch each 
other, and that will not be until the autumn. I cover the space 
between the plants with some dwarf-growing carpet plant, and for 
more reasons than this. The moisture is retained in the soil so 
much better, while the blooms are not splashed by the soil from 
the beds during heavy rains, and if suitable colours are used the 
beauty of the flowers is much enhanced by the groundwork. For 
instance, how much better a bright scarlet will appear above a 
setting of Sedum glaucum, and so on. Any extra time spent in 
arranging these carpet plants is occupied to much advantage. 
Whatever class of plant is used it should be planted at the time the 
Begonias are placed in. The following are all suitable—Sedums 
glaucum and Lydium, Herniaria glabra, Veronica repens, Antennaria 
tomentosa, Poa trivialis variegata, red Alternantheras, or golden 
Lysimachia. Sedum glaucum and Veronica repens are two of the 
most effective with all shades of colour in the Begonia. When the 
plants are growing freely, should the weather be dry and the 
sun hot, a good soaking of liquid manure occasionally will be of 
great advantage. Apply this in the evening, and if any doubts 
occur that the foliage may be stained by the liquid, water the 
plants at once with clear water, which will cleanse the leaves. A 
small stake placed neatly to some of the tallest growing varieties 
will prevent their being broken by wind or heavy rains, as they 
