February S, 1887. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
97 
Plums. —These may be pruned and trained in every respect similarly 
to the Apricot, a too free use of the knife, in the case of young trees 
especially, being injurious to both. The main branches may usually be 
laid in to their full length just as received from the nurseries, plenty of 
lateral growth as well as leaders being forthcoming according as the tree 
gains in strength or recovers from the severe check given when trans¬ 
planted. If these strong young shoots are cut back in any way, laterals 
are formed at the extremities only, and probably no fruit spurs for a long 
time, whereas if unpruned there is every probability that fruit spurs will 
be formed throughout their full length. In this manner a fruitful tree 
will be most quickly obtained, though even in this case a winter root- 
pruning may eventually be needed in order to keep the roots near the 
surface, and also to check extra strong growth. Standard trees may have 
their branches cut when there are insufficient to form a well-balanced head, 
and those well established are most profitable when freely thinned out, 
plenty of light and air being most conducive to the formation of good 
fruitful growth. Plums are by no means fastidious as to position, as we 
have some on walls in all aspects. Morocco is a good early sort, better 
as regards size and flavour than the more heavy cropping Rivers’ Prolific. 
Other good culinary sorts are Victoria, Pond’s Seedling, Dove Bank, 
Early Orleans, Orleans, Prince of Wales, and Washington; and for 
dessert purposes Angelina Burdett, Kirke’s, Jefferson, Green Gage, Oullins 
Golden, Transparent Gage, Coe’s Golden Drop, and Imperatrice. The 
common Damson is the best in point of quality, but the Crittenden or 
Cluster is much the most prolific. 
PEARS. —We commence pruning and re-nailing the wall trees of these 
early in the winter, and continue the work whenever the weather permits. 
Supposing all lateral growth on well-established trees were only lightly 
shortened at their summer pruning, they will now require to be cut back 
with all secondary growth attached to within about 2 inches of the main 
stems, and the weaker shoots still closer. These closely pruned shoots 
will eventually become surrounded by fruiting spurs, the time taken up 
varying according to the vigour of the trees, the rankest growers being 
the longest in arriving at a fruitful stage. All leading growths to be laid 
in to their full length, and unless the trees are growing very strongly 
many fruit buds may develope on them during the year. The lower 
branches of espaliers or horizontally trained ought for the first three years 
at least to be trained somewhat obliquely, or otherwise they are unable 
to keep pace with the higher and more favourably situated branches, these 
attracting the greater amount of sap. Pyramidal, bush-shaped, and 
standard trees ought not to be neglected, nor, on the other hand, is it wise 
in many instances to be too free with the knife. Where the trees are 
frequently lifted very little lateral growth and plenty of fruit buds is the 
usual consequence, no harm being done by cutting out the greater portion 
of the young shoot*. But the more strong vigorous trees are cut the 
greater the amount of gross unfruitful growth resulting, and if root- 
pruning is not resorted to a different style of pruning must be adopted. 
If the lateral growth is freely thinned out and all the best placed reserved 
to its full length, these in many instances will be clothed with fruit buds 
next winter and the whole character of the tree be changed. No topping 
these growths should be resorted to, or the experiment will end in failure. 
A good assortment of Pears for walls and as garden trees consists 
of Jargonelle, Williams’ Bon ChiStien, Beurre d'Amanlis, Beurrd Superfin, 
Beurr<; Hardy, Louise Bonmi of Jersey, Marie Louise, Doyenne- du Comice, 
Mardchal de Cour, Pitmaston Duchess, Thompson’s, Van Mons Leon 
Leclerc, Huyshe’s Prince Consort, Hacon’s Incomparable, Beurr6 Bache- 
lier, Beurrdd’Aremberg, Glon Monjeau, Josephine de Malines, Bergamotte 
Esperen, Easter Beurrd, Jeaa de Witte, Olivier de Serres, and Madame 
Millet. 
Cherries.— Much that was advised in the matter of pruning Plums 
is also applicable to Cherries. They bear fruit principally on the spurs 
of pruned trees and on the young wood formed the preceding year. All 
the strong growers are kept closely spurred back, the main branches 
only requiring to be re-nailed occasionally. In the case of Mnrellos, 
these shculd be treated more like Peaches, having their main 
branches rather thinly trained to allow good space for laying in 
the young shoots that are to bear fruit this season. The 
pruning merely consists of cutting out as much of the old bearing 
wood as possible, replacing this by the young wood formed during last 
summer, all of which may be laid in to its full length. All the fasten¬ 
ings of wall trees of all descriptions ought to be frequently examined, 
much injury being done by both the shreds and nails when these interfere 
with the free swelling of the stems. We do not cut back newly planted 
trees, and as they are given plenty of fresh loamy soil to root in, a small 
crop taken from them the second year after planting does not materially 
check the desirable free growth. S andard and pyramids pay for thinning 
out, but it is not advisable to practise spur-pruning. Early Rivers, Black 
Tartarian, Elton, Bigarreau, Mary, Morelia, and Florence, are good sorts 
for walls, and these, with the exception of the last named, as well as 
May Duke, Late Duke, and Kentish, are also suitable for pyramids and 
standards. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Figs. — Earliest-forced Trees in Pots. —These are now in full growth, 
the points of the shoots must be pinched out when they have made a 
growth of about 5 inches. Continue a temperature of 55° to 60° at night 
and 66° by day, advancing to 75° with sun heat, closing early and allowing 
an advance to 80° or 85°. In dull weather give a little extra fire heat in 
the early part of the day, so as to allow of ventilation if only for an hour 
or two to give a change of atmosphere. The bottom heat should be 
kept steady at 75°, introducing fresh leaves as necessary. Syringe fre¬ 
quently to keep red spider in check, and always sufficiently early in the 
afternoon to allow of the foliage becoming dry before night. Regularly 
supply water and liquid manure to the roots cf the trees. 
Early-forced Planted-out Trees. —When the trees have commenced 
growth the temperature should be slightly raised both at night and by 
day, 55° being a suitable night temperature and 60° to 65° by day, with a 
rise of 5° to 10° from sun heat. Syringe twice a day on fine days, but on 
dull days morning syringing, or when very dull damping available surfaces 
about the house will be sufficient, ventilating on all favourable occasions, 
as a drawn and weakly growth cannot afterwards be rectified, therefore 
seek a sturdy short-jointed growth from the commencement. The 
surface of the border should be mulched with partially decayed manure, 
and in a lumpy state, to as to allow the roots to have the benefit of the 
air. Through the mulching waterings in a tepid state should be given as 
necessary. 
Second Early-forced Trees. —Where there is more than one Fig house 
a second may now be started. The trees will have had the strong old 
growths cut out so as to leave the terminals for furnishing the first 
crop, and been dresee 1 with an insecticide; if not, those matters must be 
attended to without delay. The border should be brought into a thoroughly 
moist state by repeated watering if necessary with tepid water, or in the 
case of restricted borders with liquid manure at 80°. Syringe the trees 
occasionally, also keep all available surfaces damped twice a day. A 
temperature of 50° at night and 55° by day is sufficient to commence with, 
advancing to 65° from sun heat. 
Melons. —Add a little soil as a top-dressing as the plants grow 
keeping them near the glass to prevent drawing, but do not allow the 
plants to become stunted for want of pot room, shifting those intended 
for trelliswork into larger pots as they require it, training with a single 
stem, putting a stake to each, to which the plants should be secured as they 
advance, removing all laterals as goon as visible up to the height of stem 
required to reach the trellis, as also all tendrils. Those intended to run 
over the surface of the bed in pits, &c., should have the lead pinched at 
the second rough leaf, and instead of shifting into larger pots they may 
be planted out in their permanent quarters, either before or after stopping. 
Keep a sharp look out for slugs. A ring of soot or lime placed round the 
plants will generally preserve them, but baits should be laid for them so 
as to entrap the pests. Brewers’ grains or scalded bran covered over with 
Lettuce or Cabbage leaves form an excellent bait for both slugs and 
woodlice. 
Pines —Continue the treatment advised in our last calendar under 
that head to those plants recently started into fruit. The plants if in good 
condition at the roots will produce strong suckers. When the suckers 
are large enough to handle, all, except one to each plant, should have the 
growth checked by taking out the centres of those not wanted. 
To supplement the autumn-potted plants solect others which have been . 
wintered in 7 or 8-inch pots, choosing the most vigorous plants. The 
remainder of such plants should be reserved until the general spring 
potting, when they should be shaken out and treated similarly to suckers. 
Good fibrous loam wi'.h the turf reduced, or if used fr69h it should be 
placed where it will be heated so as to kill the grass and any larvae it may 
contain, and torn up in a suitable compost, adding about a quart of soot 
to every bushel, and a similar quantity of some approved fertiliser. If 
the turf has been laid up it must be had under cover to become dried. 
Drain the pots moderately but efficiently, dusting with wood ashes or soot 
over them so as to exclude worms, and, keeping the plants well down in 
the pots, ram the soil firmly round the plants, leaving sufficient space to 
admit of copious supplies of water being given when necessary. For 
Queens 10-inch, and 11 or 12-inch pots are suitable for those of stronger 
or more robust growth. A temperature of 60° to 65° will be sufficient for 
these plants, also for those potted last autumn, and 80° to 85° at the roots. 
Plants in beds about to be started into fruit must not have the heat at 
the base of the pots over 90° or 95°, or their roots will be injured. If 
sufficient fiuit be started to meet the requirements, later successional 
plants that have not been subjected to a high temperature may be advanced 
slowly, they with autumn-potted suckers requiring careful watering, 
especially where the heat at the roots is supplied by fermenting materials. 
Cherry House. —Of all fruit trees the Cherry is the most impatient 
of heat in the early stage of growth, especially when the ventilation is 
indifferent. Commence ventilating at 50°, allowing an increase of 15°, 
with proportionately increased ventilation, closing the house at 50°, 
45° being sufficient by day artificially, and 40° at night. See that Ihere 
is no deficiency in the border, giving a thorough supply of water when 
necessary. Those in pots will require more frequent attention. Syr nge 
only on fine days and early, and damp the surface of the borders when¬ 
ever they become dry, covering it with partially decayed manure about a 
couple of inches thick and lumpy. Kerp a sharp look out for aphides, 
and fumigate directly the pest appears. 
Strawberries in Pots. —Notwithstanding the adverse weather, 
the early plants have thrown up the trusses strongly, especially Vicom- 
tesse Hericart de Thury and La Grosse Sucree, the earliest having set 
freely and, being well thinned, advance rapidly in swelling. Although a 
moderate temperature is adv s ib’e until the fruit is set an i commencing 
to swell, a brisk and moderately moist best is essential to the satisfactory 
swelling of the fru t, hence 60° to 65° or 70° should be afforded artificially, 
with 10° to 15° advicco from sun heat, and when the fruit commences 
ripening a diier atmosphere will improve the colour and flavour of the 
fruit. Plants advancing to the flowering stage m ist not be hurried ; 50° to 
55° is ample by artificial means, and 60° to 65° with sun htat and free venti¬ 
lation. Another batch shou’d be started without delay, introducing along 
with President, James Veitch, Sir Charles Napier, &c., some of the early 
varieties, such as Sir Harry, La Gmsse Suci6s, & \, so as to secure the succrs- 
