118 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ February 10,1887. 
green, end ciliated pet., and the lip entirely green.. Syn. C. Hyeanum. 
Borneo. 
CrPRiPEDiuM Leeanum. (W . 0. A., pi. 223.) A fine hybrid between 
C. Spiceriauum and C. iusigne, var. Maulei, very dwarf in habit. Dorsal 
sep. white, with a green basal area, and rows of purple dots on the nerves 
to about the middle; lower sep. light green, the nerves spotted with purple. 
Pet. oblong obtuse, wavy on the upper margin, light tawny brown, with 
. darker veins, and a yellowish-green border. Lip brownish-purple outside, 
yellowish inside, with purplish veins. Garden hybrid. 
(To be continued.) 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
The busy season in the vegetable department is now beginning. 
The state of the soil is against many operations being carried out with 
satisfaction, but we always prefer being too early rather than too late 
with our crops, and we never allow the slightest opportunity to pass 
without trying to advance as many crops and operations as possible. 
The general expression of “ there is time enough to do this and that ” 
does not find much favour with us, as we find all early vegetables so 
acceptable a,nd valuable that they can never be pushed on too early, 
and although some failures occur with early crops there are many 
successes with them. We grow our early crops to begin with the 
London season in April ; excuses then will never do, and we must have 
them in “ by hook or by crook.” 
Radishes.— Early Radishes are very acceptable on the table in the 
months of March and April, and they are very remunerative in the 
market at that season. Their early culture always pays, and as they 
are easily grown and sure of return their culture should be very general. 
A shallow gentle hotbed, with any rough frame and a glass light over 
them, will soon induce them to gain maturity, and a firm moderately 
rich soil suits them best. They should be near the glass, as it spoils 
them either to be drawn in a shady place or by being too much crowded. 
They ai-e sometimes grown between other crops, and when not smothered 
succeed very well, but a small frame of them proves satisfactory. 
Parsnips. —Many are in the habit of sowing their Parsnips early in 
February, and we have rarely known them fail when sown at this time ; 
but they will do later, and the best way is to make two sowings, one now, 
and another six weeks hence. The soil in all cases should only be 
moderately rich, neither too heavy nor too light, and not less than 
18 inches in depth. Turn it and break it well before sowing. Allow 
18 inches from row to row, sow thinly 3 inches deep, and a good 
crop is sure to be the result. The soil at this time is generally so 
damp that it cannot be rolled, but if the surface becomes dry before the 
plants appear a good rolling to make it firm will benefit the roots, 
as they form best in a firm soil. 
Tomatoes. —These are becoming more and more popular. If grown 
to fruit in April and May they are greatly appreciated, and where a few 
plants can be fruited early under glass they form an excellent addition 
to other vegetables. Where the young plants are a few inches high in 
the seed pots lift them all out and place singly in 3-inch pots. Give 
them a substantial rich soil, avoiding too much sand. Keep them in a 
temperature of 65° or 70° and near the glass. Sow a good quantity of 
seed to produce plants for culture in the open ah. To succeed well with 
these they should be 1 foot or 18 inches in height at the time of planting 
out in May. Some scores of them may be raised in a shallow box. The 
seed germinates freely in any genial atmosphere, and the plants bear 
transplanting freely at all times. Spring-fruiting plants should be 
repotted as is necessary until they are in 10-inch pots, then stop potting. 
Restrict them to one or two main growths at most, and do not 
let any water fall on the flowers when they are open. There are so 
many plants requiring house room in spring that a house cannot often 
be given to Tomatoes alone, but a pot of them placed here and there in 
a vinery, Cucumber pit, or any other house will produce a crop without 
any special expense. 
Carrots.— The early sown ones are now through the soil. They 
will not bear much exposure as yet, but a little air should be admitted 
to them on fine days, always tilting the lights on the sheltered side of 
the frame. As soon as the plants can be handled begin to thin them ; 
premature crowding is ruinous. Cover them when it is frosty, but do 
not pamper them, as Carrots cannot be forced in this way. Make 
another hotbed and sow more seed. A two-light frame of young Carrots 
will last for many days in the kitchen, and unless for market they need 
hot. be grown in very large quantities under glass. Only the Horn 
varieties should be grown under glass. The soil should be rather rich, 
sandy, and firm, and always a little deeper than the roots are likely to 
penetrate. They will grow very freely now with the aid of a gentle 
hotbed, and a few should be grown in this way in every garden. Old 
Carrots become distasteful as the spring advances, but the young ones 
are tender and sweet. 
Cauliflowers. —Plants which have been wintered in frames and 
under handglasses should now be freely exposed to the weather on every 
favourable opportunity, as they will have to be planted in the open in 
a few weeks hence, arid it is well to have them well hardened before 
turning them out altogether. When they require water give them liquid 
manure, as this induces them to root freely quite close to the stem. Sow 
a quantity of seed of some early kind. We generally use shallow boxes 
for this purpose, and the young plants are taken from these and dibbled 
into frames in March and planted out in April. A batch of a main crop 
sort may also be raised in this way, as young Cauliflowers do not come 
away very fast if sow r n in the open ground until April, and then it is 
too late for a midseason supply. 
Lettuces.— Where young plants are growing in sheltered positions 
from seed sown last autumn stir the surface of the soil between them 
and remove any dead leaves. Sprinkle a little soot or artificial manure 
amongst them, to be washed in by the rain ; shelter them from severe 
frost, and prevent them from being checked now. Where no plants of 
this kind exist sow seed at once. If the plan of sowing Cauliflower 
now is followed capital young Lettuce plants will be at disposal before 
long. Lettuces are exceedingly useful in spring and early summer, and 
a few scores of them should be grown as an early batch in all gardens. 
Early Paris Market is the earliest of all. It will surpass all others by a 
fortnight in its time of gaining maturity. 
Kidney Beans.—Do not neglect those in the early stages of then- 
growth. If stunted when young they will never fruit well when older. 
Those sown in the early part of January should now be put into their 
fruiting pots. Our young plants are in little clumps in 3-inch pots, and 
three of these are transferred to a 9-inch pot for fruiting. They are 
not crammed into the centre, but are put as far as possible from each 
other round the sides, and the balls of roots are not broken. Rich soil 
should be used in potting them, and they may be potted very firmly. 
Keep them in a temperature of 65° or 70°, and give them plenty of 
water as soon as they begin to root freely. A large quantity of seed 
may now be sown in small pots, as by the time the plants from this 
are fruiting the days will be long and mild, and heavy crops will be 
produced. The seed for Easter Kidney Beans should be sown at once, 
and the plants will require to be grown rapidly to gain maturity by that 
time. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Melons. —Of primary importance in the cultivation of early Melons 
is a brisk bottom heat, and whether obtained from hot-water pipes alone 
or in combination with fermenting materials, or with the latter only, it 
should be lasting. Hot-water pipes are unquestionably the best, as they 
afford a regular and lasting heat, yet a very successful result can be had 
by the aid of fermenting materials alone if due regard be paid to their 
preparation. Stable litter and an equal proportion of Oak or Beech 
leaves are the best. They should be taken in hand about a fortnight 
before it is desired to make the bed, and thoroughly incorporated by 
throwing them into a heap, and if dry they should be moistened. In a 
few days it will be seen whether there is sufficient moisture to produce 
fermentation ; if so, turn the materials before violent heat is produced, 
and damp and dry material; but in case the material is not heated 
quickly it must be turned after a few days and receive water as required. 
In making hotbeds always employ a good layer of faggots for the 
foundation, especially if the site be low and damp, and t ike care to 
provide a bed large enough for the season ; 5 feet high at the back and 
1 feet in front, with the material well beaten down, will not be too high. 
The frame or frames should then be placed on, and in four days or so 
level the bed if necessary, and place in the centre of each light about a 
barrowful of soil in the form of a flattened cone, the top about 1 foot 
from the glass. When the heat in the soil does not exceed 85° to 90°, 
place out a plant in the centre of each mound, unless the frame be 
large, when two plants may be placed under each light. Press the soil 
firmly around the plants, taking care, however, not to injure the stem, 
and place a little dry soot and quicklime around each plant to preserve 
them from slugs. The day temperature should be 70°, and 10° to 15° 
more from sun heat, losing no opportunity of admitting air to allow of 
the escape of rank steam or accumulated moisture ; but in no case must 
the air be admitted so as to lower the temperature below 70°. The night 
temperature should be 65° to 70°. Instead of planting-out too soon shift 
into larger pots as required—a couple of sizes larger, plunging them in 
a bottom heat of 80° and near the glass, securing the stems to small 
stakes as the plants advance in growth. Plants for pits or frames should 
be stopped as before advised at the third leaf, whilst those for trellises 
should not be stopped, but the laterals must be removed up to the 
bottom of the trellis. 
Cucumbers. —A favourable change in the weather has greatly 
assisted in the progress of Cucumbers. A little more moisture, both 
at the roots and in the atmosphere, may be allowed, and the evaporation 
troughs may be regularly filled in bright weather. A slight increase of 
the day temperature may also be permitted. Be careful in the ad¬ 
mission of air, avoiding cold currents. Encourage free root action by 
the introduction of fresh compost from time to time. Pits and frames 
must now be thoroughly cleaned, after which bring in the fermenting 
materials. The treatment of Cucumbers and Melons is so similar as 
to temperature that what is stated of one will answer for the other. 
Peaches and Nectarines. —In the earliest house syringing will 
be required morning and afternoon to keep red spider in check. See 
that the outside border is well protected against the cold, and water the 
inside border with liquid manure, which will much assist the fruit in 
swelling, especially weakly trees long subjected to forcing. Vigorous 
trees will not require any stimulants, excessive vigour being unfavour¬ 
able to the fruit safely passing the stoning process. When the fruit is 
the size of small marbles thinning may be commenced, but remove a 
few fruits only at a time, removing first those that are badly placed. 
Disbudding may be followed up, taking care to leave a shoot at the base 
