Febrniry 17,1867. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
127 
Spinach. — Victoria Improved Round, described in Veitch’s 
catalogue as being “ a fine variety for summer use, with thick 
dark green leaves, remaining fit for use ten days longer than the 
ordinary Round,” fully answered to that description, and is well 
worthy of a trial in every garden. The Round-seeded is good for 
early and late sowing, and proves quite as hardy as the Prickly- 
seeded. Spinach Beet we find the best winter substitute for the 
ordinary Spinach, and the New Zealand for the summer supplies. 
Tomato. —There are a bewildering number of good varieties of 
these to select from. I still prefer Carter’s Perfection for any crop, 
but Hackwood Park Prolific, Dedham Favourite, Hathaway’s Ex¬ 
celsior, Reading Perfection, Large Red, and Dwarf Orangefield are 
each and all profitable and good, both indoors and out. Earliest of 
All is strongly recommended by a friend of mine, especially for 
fruiting on the open walls. 
Turnip. —Extra Early Milan has quite supplanted the Early 
Munich, being quick»r growing and of better quality. It is un¬ 
equalled for sowing under glass. To succeed this we have Snow¬ 
ball ; Veitch’s Red Globe for main and late crops; Chirk Castle 
being the hardiest of all. 
Vegetable Marrow. —Muir’s Pen-y-Byd again yielded ex¬ 
ceptionally heavy crops, the quality being also equally as satis¬ 
factory. Long White may be grown by those who prefer larger 
fruit. 
Remarks on Peas and Potatoes are reserved until another issue. 
—W. Iggulden. 
VIOLETS IN WINTER. 
These are not so much grown as they deserve to be, considering with 
what little expense they may be had in flower from the middle of 
November till April, excepting during severe winter weather. 
The sorts we grow are New York and Princess Louise, which we 
think are the best for frame work. About the middle of April is a good 
time to plant runners. Small ones should be taken off with a few roots 
if possible, and planted II inches asunder with a trowel on a piece of 
rich ground on the north side of a wail. Should the weather be hot at 
the time, they should be watered with a rose every afternoon until they 
have taken root, after which they will not want much attention till 
about the middle of June (unless the weather has been exceptionally 
hot and dry, when they would want a good watering before that time). 
By this time they should have taken possession of the soil, and weak 
liquid manure should be given once a week. But if they are not well 
rooted before liquid manure is given it will do them harm instead of 
good, as it makes the ground sour and acts as a poison to the plants, 
killing the roots as fast as they make any attempt to strike out into it. 
During summer keep the surface stirred with the Dutch hoe, and keep 
all bloom buds off and the long thin wiry suckers ; but there will be 
several thrown out on each plant of short stocky runners from 2 to 
3 inches long ; take especial care of these, as each forms a crown which 
blooms after the centre crown is over. 
About the last week in August a good heap of leaves should be formed 
with a little manure to start it heating, and when it has produced a good 
heat make up a bed, using some long stable manure for the sides. By 
the endi of September it will be cooled sufficiently to place the frame 
on and the soil in it, which should be a rather light loam with a little 
leaf mould. A few days after try the bottom of the soil, and when it 
has cooled down to the temperature of new milk the Violets may be 
planted. They should be taken up carefully with good balls of soil, 
reducing it a little with the hands until it is about 8 inches through and 
the same in depth, which should all be one mass of roots. Plant them a 
foot apart each way and press the soil firmly. Give a good watering and 
keep rather close for a few days, and sprinkle overhead after dinner each 
day for about a week, when they must have all the air, gradually 
increasing it until the lights can be removed, excepting in very bad 
weather, at which time they should be propped up at the back. From 
the middle of November till the beginning of February the lights are 
better kept on. They must be kept properly up so that a current of air 
can pass through the frame to prevent damping, which is the worst evil 
in winter. During severe weather they must be well covered by 
placing long strawy manure around the sides of the frame, covering 
the glass with two or three thicknesses of mats or straw. 
For, although Violets are generally considered hardy, sharp frosts will 
often injure them if not well protected, for I have known these varieties 
killed by frost when left out in the open border. Of esurse we do not 
expect to get Violets during such severe weather as we have lately 
experienced. When there is a pit with a hot-water pipe along the front 
which can be turned on in damp and foggy weather, or when the weather 
ifsevere, damp may be prevented, and flowers may be gathered through 
the whole winter. If they are well watered at the time of planting they 
do not often need more until the beginning of February, when weak 
liquid manure should be given, or a sprinkling of soot before watering.— 
J. L. B. 
ALNWICK SEEDLING GRAPE. 
The illustration (fig. 21) gives a true representation of a bunch 
grown by Mr. Murray, gardener to the Marquis of Ailsa, Culzean 
Castle, cut from a Vine that finished a crop to perfection, bearing 
2^ lbs. to the foot of rod ; however, it is the model shape of bunch, 
and the regularity of the berries, as shown in the illustration, that we 
think excellent and worthy of note, considering that Alnwick Seedling, 
like its compeers of recent introduction, has been praised by some and 
condemned by others. Its great fault is being a bad setter. Whether 
it is caused by locality or unsuitable treatment I cannot say, but Mr. 
Murray is often consulted about its setting and the treatment received, 
which he keeps no secret. I recommend anyone that grows Alnwick 
Seedling and finds it shy in setting to give his treatment a trial. The 
Vines referred to are grown on their own roots along with Lady 
Downe’s and Alicantes, all having the same treatment. After removing 
all the surface soil yearly without damaging the roots, the borders 
inside and out receive a fresh dressing of turf, mixed with wood ashes 
and Thomson’s Vine manure. During the growing season the borders 
receive heavy waterings up to the time the Grapes commence 
colouring. 
The only extra attention that Alnwick Seedling receives is when 
Fig. 21.—Alnwick S ecting, 
in flower. Any close observer who grows this variety will know 
the difficulty in having the bunches sufficiently dry to allow the 
pollen to spread, owing to the quantity of nectar. To remedy this 
Mr. Murray approves of selecting a good day before he attempts the 
fertilising of the bunches, and not until the vinery has been well 
ventilated, which has a tendency to favour the operation, and he 
recommends the use of a few feathers instead of going over all the 
bunches with one brush, as the brush becomes too wet for distributing 
the pollen. On dull days, when no ventilation is provided, a sharp 
tap is given on the wires, or some pollen taken from other varieties, is 
collected on a sheet of paper or glass and blown on the bunches.—A 
Brother Spade. 
[The insertion of this letter will answer some inquiries we have re¬ 
ceived, and as one “new reader” is doubtful as to this Grape being 
worth growing w° reproduce a bunch grown by Mr. Murray, and which 
