140 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ February 17, 1887. 
flowers, nor do I think that what are called French varieties are at all 
to be compared with them. 
Roses.— It is hardly time yet to be doing much amongst these, and I, 
therefore, defer any observations upon their treatment. They have had 
in many cases a hard time of it, but from all that I have seen anil heard 
I do not think they have suffered very serious injury.—D., Deal. 
WORK. FOf l THE WEEK.. O 
HARDY FRUIT GARDEN. 
At one time it appeared several kinds of fruit would soon be in 
bloom, the mild weather both by day and night tending to encourage 
the rapid development of the buds. Severe frosts have now intervened, 
and cold easterly winds will materially check the growth, thereby 
rendering our chance of a good fruit crop somewhat more certain. A 
long spell of dry weather enabled many cultivators to complete the 
work of planting earlier and in better style than is often the case after 
a long frost, though even under these conditions the late autumn- 
planted trees will yet as a rule make the best progress during the 
season. The latter, where disposed against walls, may be properly 
secured by ties or shreds and nails, as the case may be ; but those 
recently planted ought not to be permanently fastened for some time 
longer, as the trees must be allowed to follow the inevitable settlement 
of the soil. In cold and late localities much planting yet remains to be 
done, and in all such cases extra pains should be taken in the operation. 
If the ground is broken up two spits deep this should be carried 
out as much as possible throughout the ground or border, as this 
disturbing the subsoil interferes with the natural drainage, the water 
collecting in the holes. Thorough drainage, not much manure, and 
rather high planting, is best calculated to cause the trees to form sturdy 
fruitful growth, and if plenty of turfy loam is available this is the best 
material for planting the trees in. All trees in the open ground, 
especially pyramids and standards, ought to be securely staked, or other¬ 
wise frequent disturbances by strong winds has a most injurious effect 
upon the roots. In many instances three stout stakes will be required, 
these being inserted about 9 inches from the stem. The trees may be 
fastened to these either with wire, stout tar twine, or haybands. If 
either of the two first-named are used a bandage of cloth or sacking 
should be passed round the stem of the tree in order to prevent the ties 
from cutting or chafing the bark. 
Protecting Apricot Blossom.— In the warmest districts Apricots 
will soon be in bloom, and there is every prospect of plenty of well 
formed flowers. Unfortunately they are very easily injured by frosts, 
and must be protected in some way, or not much fruit can reasonably be 
expected. Glass copings and blinds are the most reliable protectors, 
and where the trees are worth covering the value of the fruit saved and 
ripened with their aid soon compensate for the outlay. The revolving 
copings are the least trouble, as these admit of rains and falling of the 
foliage and watering the borders, heavy dew also checking the spread of 
red spider. The fixed framework from which the glass can be removed 
or refixed at will are also very serviceable. In cold wet localities the 
glass should not be removed at any time, too much moisture at the roots 
frequently proving fatal to the trees. Whatever form of coping is 
adopted it ought to be in readiness to protect the trees before the flowers 
are really expanded, the blinds, however, not being opened out till 
absolutely necessary. Nor should they be open during mild days, as 
they have a tendency to weaken the flowers, but during the prevalence 
of cold or easterly winds the trees should have the benefit of their pro¬ 
tection both by day and night. Glass coping not being available, some 
other plan of protecting ought to be adopted. Blinds made of cotton 
netting, frigi domo, glass sheeting, Hessian or scrim canvas, the latter 
being the cheapest, the two former the best, are useful for many pur¬ 
poses after they have saved the Apricot blossom. With the aid of a few 
curtain rings they may be made to run on stout wires attached to the 
under side of a 9-inch flooring board. The latter, besides being bracketed 
under the wall coping, will be further supported by long poles. These 
being inserted in the ground about 3 feet from the wall at easy distances 
apart, or to suit the width of the blinds, serve to keep them from dash¬ 
ing against the trees, as well as for keeping them in position whether 
open or closed. We have saved crops with the aid of poles and Russian 
mats, but we much prefer blinds. Ordinary fish netting doubled or 
trebled and hung loosely from the top of the wall or coping board, poles 
being used to keep it clear of the trees, will ward off a moderately severe 
frost, as will also branches of Spruce Fir, but at their best they are only 
makeshifts resorted to by those who feel they must do something to pro¬ 
tect the trees. 
Peaches.— These, whether loosened or unloosened from the walls, 
are moving, and will soon be in bloom. Pruning and re-nailing ought 
therefore to be completed at once. If the summer disbudding and 
regulating the young growths was well attended to, not much pruning 
ought to be necessary. Plenty of medium-sized well-ripened young 
growths are required, these never failing to bloom strongly. A too free 
use of the knife is apt to be followed by sappy unfruitful growth, while 
if we go to the other extreme, the best is formed on the top of the wall 
where it is of little service, the lower portion and centre of the tree soon 
becoming naked. Our first proceeding is to shorten many of the 
longest main branches to good well placed side branches. In some 
instances the main branches may with advantage be cut back to near 
the main stem, but this ought not to be practised with the more vigorous 
trees. The next step is to cut out as much of the last season’s fruiting 
wood as may have escaped the autumn pruning, its place being taken by 
the young bearing wood. Whether the latter shall be shortened or not 
depends upon its character. If strong and well ripened it is best laid in 
to its full length. Medium-sized shoots, or any say that are rather 
smaller than, or about the size of a slate pencil, may, if furnished with 
triple buds, the central one of these being a wood bud, be shortened to 
about 1 foot or rather less in length. The more weakly shoots are 
usually furnished with fruit buds, only the point being capable of 
forming a leafy growth. It follows if we shorten such shoots we spoil 
them altogether, as fruit very rarely matures on wood unfurnished with 
a leading leafy growth to attract necessary support. Where green or 
black fly is apt to be troublesome the trees should be syringed with 
petroleum added to water at the rate of 2 ozs. to the gallon of the 
latter. As it will not mix properly, every other syringeful should be 
forcibly returned into the can, this preventing the oil from collecting on 
the surface of the water. Trees badly mildewed ought to have been 
lifted and replanted in fresh compost last autumn. At the present time 
all that can be done is to freely shorten the affected wood and coat over 
that reserved with lime and sulphur. Later on a solution of lime and 
sulphur is the best preventive. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Pines.—A batch of suckers will have to be started about the begin¬ 
ning of March to provide plants to give a succession of fruit from next 
December onwards ; therefore attend to the preparation of soil for 
potting, and a fermenting bed in some close structure to generate and 
maintain a bottom heat of 85° to 90° near the surface, and with means 
of maintaining a temperature of 55° to 65° by fire heat with regularity. 
Plants which were selected about the beginning of last December and 
started by an advanced temperature will now be showing fruit, and as it 
is advisable to forward ripening of the fruit as much as possible, the 
temperature about them should be maintained at 65° to 70° at night, 
and 5° to 10° more under favourable conditions in the daytime, opening 
the house at 80°, allowing an advance to 85°, and close about that 
degree, utilising the sun heat. With the fruit advancing the plants will 
require more water at the roots, examining the whole stock once a week, 
as with increased light and heat the need for -water will increase. 
Recently started plants to succeed those already named should have a 
night temperature of 65°, and 70° by day artificially, which will be 
sufficient for them for some time longer. 
Figs. —-Early Torccd Pot Trees — The earliest trees -which are 
subjected to bottom heat will require to be regularly supplied with 
■water, as the neglect of this would prove injurious to the crop. Syringe 
the trees morning and afternoon when the days are fine. If a second 
batch in pots are wanted the trees may now be started, and they will 
make a succession to the earliest forced, giving them the same course of 
treatment as has been already advised. 
Early Forced Planted out Trees .The trees permanently planted 
out in houses where forcing was commenced early in the year will be 
making growth, and require tying to the trellis as they advance, and 
thinning out where too crowded, pinching the shoots which issue from 
the base of the fresh terminal shoots at the fourth or fifth leaf. Keep 
the night temperature at 55° to 60°, and 65° in the daytime by artificial 
means ; commence ventilating at 65°, and allow the day temperature to 
rise to 75° or 80° from sun heat, closing at 70° with sun heat, allowing 
a free circulation of air when the temperature is above 70°. 
Cherry House.— Continue the temperature recently advised. The 
delicate clusters of flowers will soon be expanded. If there be the least 
trace of aphides fumigate before the flowers are fully open. Artificial 
impregnation must be resorted to when the pollen is ripe, selecting 
bright sunny days when the house is very freely ventilated, applying the 
pollen to the stigmas with a camel’s-hair brush. If bees appear upon 
the scene it is a good sign. Damping is still necessary once or twice a 
day, avoiding, however, a confined atmosphere, leaving a chink of air 
on constantly. If the border needs water supply it, and do not neglect 
trees in pots. 
Vines.— Early Hnusts .—With increased length of days and a con¬ 
tinuance of mild weather forcing may be pushed on rapidly. Venti¬ 
lating and the supply of moisture must have daily attention, and be re. 
gulated according to the weather. Vines in flower should have a night 
temperature of 65°, and the air of the house should be kept rather dry. 
Remove all unnecessary laterals, tie out in their permanent places those 
that are left, and endeavour to have every part of the trellis filled with 
as much foliage as can be fully exposed to light. Thinning the berries 
must commence with free-setting sorts as soon as they are formed, but 
any that frequently produce stoneless berries should not be thinned 
until it is seen which berries take the lead in swelling. Remove dupli¬ 
cate bunches, leaving the best set and most compact, and avoid the too 
common practice of overcropping. All inside borders should be fre¬ 
quently examined, and w'hen water is required it should be given a few 
degrees warmer than the mean temperature of the house. The ferment- 
