JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
145 
February 24,1887. ] 
24 
Th 
Royal Society at 4.S0 p M. 
25 
P 
Queaett Club at 8 P.M. 
26 
S 
Koyal Potarro florffetv at 3.45 P.M. 
27 
SUN 
1st Sunday in Lent. 
23 
M 
1 
Tu 
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Sooiety of Arts at 8 P.M. 
POTTING AND WATERING CATTLEYAS- 
IIESE are two very important items connected 
witli the successful culture of these plants. 
^ Houses may be of the best description, shading 
and ventilating properly attended to, but un¬ 
less potting and watering the plants are carried 
out in a judicious manner the other treatment, 
however good it may be, will not lead to 
success. 
It is an open question which is the best time to carry 
out the operation of potting. It is generally considered 
that the plants should he active at their roots before it is 
done; but this is by no means important, for we tested 
the matter some years ago, and now repot the whole of 
our plants that need it before they start into growth. 
This we consider preferable, for the work can be accom¬ 
plished with less injury to the roots, which are very brittle 
after they have commenced extension. Another objection 
to repotting them after they are growing is the great 
danger of checking the plants by the removal of the com¬ 
post. The best time to repot them is before growth has 
commenced, just as they have completed their period of 
rest, as any check at that time will only be slight. 
Disturbing the roots of Cattleyas too often is a mis¬ 
take, and when they are repotted a shift should be given 
sufficiently large to last them until the compost used 
needs renewal. They are well worthy of the best peat 
that can be obtained, and even from this the soil par¬ 
ticles should be removed and only the fibre employed. 
Inferior peat with the small particles left in the compost 
becomes “pasty,” a condition Cattleyas cannot endure, 
and they then need disturbing very frequently. Good 
peat fibre watered as will be described will last three if 
not four years. We have just been repotting some plants 
that were imported two years ago. They were potted 
after they started into gi’owth, and the fibre is still sweet 
and will last for another two years. In this case a shift 
to last for that period only is given. The pots or pans in 
which they are growing must always be broken, for the 
roots cling tenaciously to the sides, and it is impossible 
to turn them out without destroying a large number. 
We prefer pans for these plants to pots, of a perfectly 
plain make with three or four holes in the base; none at 
the sides, for they become green and have an unsightly 
appearance. 
When the pans are broken any portions to which the 
roots cling should not be pulled off, but the old soil care¬ 
fully picked out. It must then be determined how much 
drainage shall be placed in the new pans. We invariably 
invert one or more whole pots according to the size of the 
pan, and then arrange the plant with the portions of the 
old pan attached, filling in about the roots with clean 
crocks of various sizes until the pan is half or three parts 
full, as each individual case may demand. It is very 
difficult to lay down any hard-and-fast rule in this matter, 
for with established plants scarcely any two can be done 
exactly alike. Some plants will not have rooted down 
into the drainage, and in this case the pans may be three 
parts filled with crocks before placing the plant into posi¬ 
tion. It is much easier to drain the pans neatly and 
satisfactorily for those that have not rooted deeply than 
for those that have, but a little practice only is needed to 
do the work well in each case. When large portions of 
the old pan cling to the roots, and large pieces of broken 
pots are arranged amongst them, two or three smaller 
sizes should be at hand for dropping in amongst the 
larger pieces. In each case, for the surface of the 
drainage a layer of crocks broken moderately small, such 
as would remain in a half-inch mesh sieve, but pass 
through one with three-quarters of an inch mesh, should 
be placed on the surface. Over this a layer of peat fibre 
with not a trace of fine soil in it; moss may be used, but 
fibre is best, for the moss decomposes too quickly. The 
remaining space may be filled with peat fibre and char¬ 
coal, used in good sized lumps, with a few moderately 
small crocks scattered in as the work of filling pro¬ 
ceeds. Take every care to press the compost as firmly as 
possible without breaking the roots. 
Some incorporate living sphagnum moss amongst the 
compost, but we have discontinued the practice. The 
object should be to place nothing in the pans that will 
decompose rapidly, for Cattleyas, of all Orchids, are very 
impatient of sour material about their roots ; in fact, they 
will not long remain healthy if care is not taken in this 
matter. If sphagnum is employed it should be arranged 
on the surface, so that it can be picked out annually 
without disturbing the roots, and fresh supplied just after 
the plants have started into growth. 
In potting imported plants for the first time they 
must not have too large pans or pots These should be 
filled within an inch of the surface, when the plant may 
be arranged into its proper position. In many instances 
it is necessary to place a stout stake in the centre, by 
which the plant can be firmly secured in its place. When 
this is necessary the stake should be placed in before the 
drainage, so that the latter will keep it perfectly steady. 
When the plant is in position the remaining portion of 
the pot may be filled with broken pots until the plant 
commences rooting and growing, when a portion can be 
removed and peat fibre supplied, with a little moss on the 
surface. The peat may be added at first if careful water¬ 
ing is practised. We have tried both ways and have 
found no appreciable difference in the results, and there¬ 
fore use a little peat when first potting them to save the 
trouble of examining the plants a second time. 
Cattlejas succeed remarkably well in baskets sus¬ 
pended from the roof, but particular care is needed when 
they are first placed in them. If the peat fibre is very 
deep in the baskets or well into the centre, supplying 
them with fresh compost is not an easy matter. After 
they become a mass of roots it is very difficult to get the 
old soil out. The baskets should be nearly filled at the 
commencement with good sized pieces of crocks and char¬ 
coal in lumps, the peat being only used near the surface 
and sides of the basket; moss is best for the latter posi¬ 
tion. Under these circumstances the rvliole can be re¬ 
moved; any that cannot be picked out with the fingers 
No. 348.—Yon. XIV., Third Series 
No. 2004.— Vol. LXXVI., Odd Series. 
