154 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ February 24, 1887. 
pots. If weak, return to the same pots— i.e., 6 or 7-inch. When estab¬ 
lished, remove the weakest if there he two shoots. Pinch laterals 
at one joint, and afterwards stop the lead when it has made 8 feet 
of growth. Some will become strong enough to fruit; indeed, 
some of those in 6-inch pots may do so. I saw some this year 
fruiting in 6-inch pots—Foster’s Seedling—good. 
There are many ways of fruiting Vines in pots. 1, Fruit them 
on the whole of the cane made in the previous year, taking six or 
more bunches of Grapes. This means so weakening it that it will 
be no good a second year, so that we need alternate years of growing 
and fruiting. 2, Allowing a moderate crop and fruiting in con¬ 
secutive years. The canes in this case are left 3 feet long, and 
three or four bunches are taken, the Vine being allowed to extend and 
cut back to say 18 inches and so on, the fruit after the first year 
being borne from spurs. Sometimes the rods are twisted round 
stakes, or they are kept in bush form. Each has its advocates. It 
does not matter what way the Vine is trained, only procure good 
wood, Lave it ripe and the buds plump. Grapes are sure to come, 
prune as we will. I prefer to grow a Vine to fruiting strength, 
then fruit it, and have others for succeeding crops. There is no 
need to throw the Vines away. Cut them down, disroot, or remove 
the soil when started into growth and repot. It will make a fruiting 
cane that year or the next, and the fruiting and non-fruiting can be 
grown together, the one alternate with the other. The Vines so 
far, however, are only in 9-inch pots. If to be fruited, they are 
put in 12 or 13-inch in spring, merely loosening the sides of the ball. 
The so-called growing Vines in pots with more roots outside than in 
is not the plan to be adopted. If the Vines are not strong enough, 
cut them back to a couple of eyes, shake out and place in the 13-inch 
pots, not of course until they have started into growth, and they 
will make a cane in thickness between the little finger and thumb, 
giving half a dozen Grape bunches. To grow Vines in pots 
well under cool treatment we require—1, yearling ; 2, two year 
olds ; 3, three year olds ; fourth year the Grapes. The one and 
two year growths can be made under the gather ; but the third must 
be made in an equally advantageous position with the fruiting ; in 
fact, trained between them. 
If we follow the constant fruiting system we must employ larger 
pots from time to time, or the Vines can be kept in the same pots 
by turning them over, reducing the ball, cutting back the strong or 
long roots, and returning to the same pots. It is best done when 
the Vines have leaves on them, after the wood becomes ripe, or just 
before the buds swell. So far from the Vine resenting attentions 
of this character, it succeeds all the better. Serviceable Vines 
can be grown in pots or planted out. Surface dressings are facili¬ 
tated by strips of zinc about 6 inches wide made to form a 
rim about the pots, being thrust between the soil and put inside, 
forming a space 3 or 4 inches deep. That will take the surface 
dressings, which should be added to or renewed until the Grapes 
change colour. The pots must be covered with dry litter to keep 
the roots safe from frost in winter. 
The system of raising Vines from eyes or buds is a slow one. 
There is the quicker plan of Mr. Miller’s, described and figured in 
the Journal of Horticulture, vol. xxxvii., pages 223 and 232, which 
consists of layering the eyes or buds of a strong well-ripened cane into 
pots. They can be drained and filled with soil that will suit for two 
years as well as one. The eyes should be disposed in the centre of 
the pots and about 2 inches below the rim, securing with two pegs, 
one on each side. It can be done after, or more safely before, they 
start into growth. If fed there is no reason why they should not 
gain sufficient strength for fruiting the season following the 
layering. The layers should not be detached until autumn, or when 
the leaves change colour for falling. It is a handy mode of propa¬ 
gation, and a great advance on the single eye system. 
Other Places for Vines. —I have seen a Royal Muscadine 
growing well in a shop window with a south aspect. It had the 
roots outside, and being a fruiterer’s shop the Vine garniture was 
very appropriate. Only fancy windows with sunny aspects having 
a fringe of Vine foliage around hung with luscious Grapes. It is 
worth attempting in large windows. Then we read of Vines and 
Grapes, too, in very unlikely places. Laundries, engine houses, 
workshops. The fact is, wherever there is light and sun Vines 
grow and produce Grapes. There is no climber to equal it for 
beauty, and none so accommodating and easily catered for. Free 
soils that will grow climbers will grow Vines. Thera are verandahs 
that are slated. Glaze with stout glass, 32-oz., and we have an open 
vinery. Due south the Grapes would ripen well ; indeed, under 
glass copings they ripen better than on walls. The Vine foliage 
would afford the requisite shade in summer, and I can vouch for 
the Grapes ripening and being useful. Any system of training 
could be practised, and Vine shoots depending would not interfere 
with the principal foliage, and that receiving light above and about 
the bunches the crop is sure. 
Dressing. —After pruning thoroughly cleanse the house or case. 
Syringe it first with hot water (140°), woodwork, walls, &c.; it 
softens dirt, and is a good insecticide. Wash the woodwork with 
soap and water, getting well into the corners and angles, the glass 
with clear water, and limewash the walls and wood or other material 
of the sides or front. Wash the woodwork and glass outside. Dirt 
wastes houses faster than anything by holding the wet. Strip the 
Vines of any loose bark, making no attempt at peeling and scraping. 
V ash them with warm soapy water, 8 ozs. softsoap to a gallon of 
water, using a rather stiff brush. Repeat when dry. Tie in position. 
I he house, the case, the house or wall Vines are a pleasure to look 
at all the winter. Copings can be taken off, cleansed, and put away 
or utilised. Those that are of wood can be painted. It is folly 
leaving things in the wet when they are not wanted. 
Insects, &c. —Red spider is the worst. Keep Vines well sup¬ 
plied with water and nutriment and it will not appear. Sponging 
or brushing with a soft brush the infested foliage is the best remedy 
if it is applied in time, using softsoap 2 ozs. to a gallon of water. 
Syringings may be resorted to in case of bad infections, using clear 
rain water. Thrips are a consequence of drought. They are best 
destroyed by fumigation with tobacco paper, having the foliage dry. 
Repeat if necessary. Scale will not trouble if the winter dressing 
is properly attended to, and if aphides appear fumigate. Mildew 
will succumb to flower of sulphur dusted over the affected parts. 
The thing is, a keen eye and prompt application of the remedy on 
the first assault of the enemy.—G. Abbey. 
CUTTING SEED POTATOES. 
This is more often practised on the farm than in the garden, but it 
is a good plan with larger tubers and may be adopted everywhere. I 
have hardly ever met with anyone who approved of cutting kidney 
Potatoes, and, what is more curious still, very few can give a good 
reason for not cutting kidney Potatoes for seed like the round ones. I 
do not know why any objection should be made to the practice in their 
case, as we have frequently cut large kidneys into two or three pieces, 
planted them in the ordinary way, and the crop was equal in every 
respect to that derived from uncut tubers. In fact, the kidney varieties 
will bear cutting as well as any of the round sorts, and why there 
should be any distinction made between them in this respect cannot he 
explained. No Potato, however, should ever be cut that is regarded as 
a small one, as only those of a large size can be cut without injury or 
deterioration to the crop. 
The cutting cannot be done too carefully—at least, one prominent 
eye must be left on each piece, and if possible the cutting should always 
be done in such a manner that the tuber is equally divided. We have 
all heard of the plan of cutting Potatoes to single eyes with the object 
of rapidly increasing a variety or to see what weight of crop could be 
secured from a single tuber ; but I do not approve of the system, and I 
would never cut any tuber into more than two or three pieces at most. 
V hen cutting is practised it is best to do it two or three days before 
planting, as the cut part then has time to become dry and firm.— 
J. Muir, Margarn. 
VINES AND FERNS. 
\\ HEN once a notion becomes firmly established in the British mind 
it is by no means easy to remove. Whoever formulated the idea that 
Grapes and plants cannot be well grown in the same house, must be 
well satisfied with its reception. Evidence to the contrary has been 
repeatedly adduced, but the idea remains fixed as firmly as ever in the 
minds of a not inconsiderable section of the community. Unquestion¬ 
ably there are many plants that cannot be grown satisfactorily under 
Vines. Sun-loving plants will not thrive in th- 1 shade, and these include 
the great majority that are grown for the beauty of their flowers ; but 
there are shade-loving plants, amongst which are Ferns, and, as every 
one knows, several of our British species luxuriate under the dense shade 
of trees in woods and plantations, it would be strange indeed if exotic 
kinds would not thrive satisfactorily in vineries. Numbers of persons 
know from experience that they will do so, but an example on a large 
scale is often necessary for placing the matter beyond dispute. 
Whoever may visit the fine glass structures in the Chilwell Nurseries 
of Messrs. J. R. Pearson k Sons during the summer or early autumn will 
see Grapes and Ferns grown together extensively, and both grown well. 
Good, however, as the Grapes are, it is a question if the Ferns would not 
attract the greater share of attention. The long bold banks of them 
down the 100 feet long houses are quite unique. They enhance materi¬ 
ally the effect of the structures and afford cartloads of fronds for cutting. 
The demand for fronds of Adiantum cuneatum is so great in the flower 
markets, that the Chilwell method of prodneing them is worthy of pro¬ 
minent notice. The engraving, from a photograph, represents a portion 
of one of the 100 by 30 span-roofed vineries, the Ferns being grown in 
