JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ M»-ch 8,1W. 
1 
The following is a list of the varieties grown :— 
Brassia verrucosa 
Calanthe vestita alba 
„ lutea oculata 
Cattleya crispa 
„ citrina 
„ Eldorado 
,. pi gas imperialis 
„ Mossi® 
„ intermedia 
„ Mendeli 
„ Trian® 
„ Percivaliana 
„ specios’ssima 
, Loddigesi 
„ amythystoglossa 
„ Harrisoniana 
„ guttata 
Ccelogyne cris'ata 
Cypripedium insigne 
venu8tum 
barbatum 
Stonei 
Ho okerre 
Lawrencianum 
Spicerianum 
Veitchi 
Harrisianum 
l).ndrobium nobile 
crassinode 
chrysotoxum 
chrysanthum 
Parishi 
tortile roseum 
thyrsiflorum 
Bensoniee 
Wardianum 
Lowi 
Dalhousianum 
Devonianum 
formosum 
superb'ens 
BuaTissimum 
Disa grandiflora 
Epidendrum vi'ellinum 
Licnatodes rosea 
Lycaste Skinneii 
L®lia autumnalis 
„ albida 
„ anceps 
jj », alba 
„ harpophylla 
„ ruajalis 
—L. Temple. Gardener to J. 
John's Grove, Leeds. 
Lsclia prre-tms 
„ purpurata 
Masdevallia Harryana 
„ tovarensia 
Maxillaria Harrisoni 
„ picta 
Miltonia Candida 
„ Clowesi 
„ spectabilis 
Odontoglossum grande 
„ bictonense 
„ Alexandra 
„ Londesborough- 
anum 
„ Karwinski 
„ gloriosum 
„ citrosmum 
„ pulchellum 
„ erhpum 
„ vexillarium 
„ Eos ii majus 
„ Pescatorei 
Oncidium flexuosum 
„ Papilio 
,, incurvum 
„ leucochilum 
,, bicillomm 
„ bictonense 
„ divaricatum 
„ altissimutn 
„ Marsh allianum 
„ Cavendishianum 
„ crispum 
„ pr®textum 
„ ornithorhynchum 
„ aurosum 
„ spbacelatum 
„ tigrinum 
„ ampliatum 
Pleione maculata 
„ lagenaria 
Phaius macuUsus 
„ grandifolius 
„ Wallicbi 
Sopbronit s grandiflora 
Stanhopea tigrina 
„ insignia 
„ oculata 
Trichopi i* suavis 
„ tortilis 
Zygopetalum Msckayi 
„ crinitum 
Garrison, Esq., Claremont House, St. 
FAILURES IN AURICULA GROWING. 
It is about twelve years since we commenced growing the Auricula- 
My employer then had a friend who gave us the following instructions, 
which we had to strictly adhere to. The Auricula being a native of 
Switzerland, where it grows on the rocks exposed to severe frost and 
snow, we had to find the coldest part of the garden, prepare a frame, 
make a trellis of woodwork to fit inside, the woodwork to be not less 
than 1 inch apart. The frame was then to be raised 18 inches high 
with bricks at the corners, and the lights were to be propped up from 
12 to 18 inches, and never by any means to be shut down. Our arrange¬ 
ments being complete we received our plants, some were bought others 
given. A few of them flowered, which were considered beautiful. 
Potting time arrived our mixture being two parts loam, one leaf mould, 
one old cow manure, one sand, one charcoal, all well mixed together. 
Our largest sized pots required was 2i-incli. These were half filled with 
crocks. But in spite of all this care our plants would grow less each 
year. 
I believe the Auricula is quite hardy, and would stand the most 
severe winters without any protection whatever ; yet I think these, and 
many other hardy flowers, are better for a little protection. But what 
is most injurious is exposing plants to cold cutting draughts in winter 
and spring, or even the drying winds in summer ; drawing them up in 
pots with such a small amount of soil in them, necessitating continual 
waterings, which quickly washes all the nutriment out of the soil. We 
have altered our practice. We have done away with all undercurrents 
of air, and we believe that plunging in cocoa-nut fibre is far preferable 
in order to keep the soil in the pots from drying so quickly, and save 
watering. We find drip the greatest evil, from which cause we lose 
more plants than all others. We bring the plants as near the top of 
the frame as possible, so that air can pass over and amongst them 
freely at all times when it can be admitted We only shut the lights in 
cold weather ; they are then covered with mats. We generally protect the 
plants from cold rough winds when they are throwing up their trusses. 
Instead of the mixtures we formerly used we find them grow well in a 
light turfy loam ; although we sometimes add a little sand and leaf 
mould we do not think them a necessity.—J. L. B. 
WOKK forthe WEEK.. 
HARDY FRUIT GARDEN. 
The Geape Vine. —Veiy few Grapes are now grown on the open 
walls, but there is no good reason why they should be so neglected. 
Some seasons are against them, and so they are adverse to nearly all 
other kinds of hardy fruit. The more they are neglected the smaller 
the chances of securing good crops. It is late to offer any advice upon 
pruning established Vines, but in all probability there are yet many 
that have not been touched. All laterals should at once be cut back to 
about the second or third joint in preference to more close shortening. 
Closely pruned main rods rarely bear many bunches, in this respect 
materially differing from the more favoured, as far as heat for ripening 
the wood is concerned, Vines under glass. The long rod system of 
training we find to answer best in the case of outdoor Vines, plenty of 
good fruit always being obtained by it, which, if it does not ripen 
sufficiently for dessert purposes, is yet valuable for making into wine. 
This system, briefly described, consists of laying in a certain number of 
young rods each season, these being fruited the following year, and then 
cut clean back. Supposing the main stems are trained horizontally 
right and left, not far from the ground if on ordinary garden walls, and 
just above the ground floor windows if against the front of a house; 
from these should be perpendicularly trained the fruiting rods. These 
should be at least 2 feet apart, and every other one being cut down, 
leaves a space of 4 feet for the fruiting laterals and the young rod to be 
laid in mid-way from those cut down. Plenty of young rods may be 
laid in this season on well established Vines in whatever manner trained, 
and if these are duly stopped when about 4 feet in length, or rather 
more if extra strong, and given plenty of room, will ripen satisfactorily. 
Crowding the laterals and neglecting to stop them, are frequent causes 
of failure to ripen properly, both the wood and fruit needing all the 
sunshine and air possible. After young rods are formed and fruit 
gathered, the older rods may be at once cut away. An improvement 
effected by this treatment in the quality and quantity of the crops is 
soon evident. Some good cultivators annually lay in a number of short 
rods between the. main stems, these, the following autumn, taking the 
place of others trained along the rods, and which have just perfected a 
crop of bunches. Young Vines should either be planted in the autumn 
or just as they are starting into growth in the spring. 
It is useless to attempt Grape culture in any but the sunniest 
positions. The subsoil ought to be removed to a depth of about 
30 inches, replacing with 0 inches of rough drainage and a compost of 
fresh turfy loam, if procurable, and good garden soil in equal quantities, 
adding a liberal sprinkling of crushed bones. One of the most reliable sorts 
for the open air is the Royal Muscadine, better known in Grape-growing 
districts as the common Sweetwater, Black July being a fairly good 
companion for it. Black Hamburgh will sometimes colour well in the 
open, but it is very rarely sufficiently sweet to be palatable. Miller’s 
Burgundy usually produces abundance of small thickly set bunches, 
which are frequently fairly good in quality. All such are supplied in 
pots, and they will take more readily to the soil if the roots are carefully 
disentangled and well spread out when planted. If any difficulty is 
experienced in loosening the roots, the balls should be soaked in a bucket 
or tub of water, and after the soil is thus easily detached from the roots, 
the latter can safely be separated. In most cases it will be advisable to 
either cut the young Vines back to within about three joints of the 
roots, or else to completely bend them round so as to force out the back 
buds, all others being rubbed out as they burst. 
Figs.— The spring is also the best time for planting young Fig trees. 
It is useless to attempt their culture in cold low-lying districts, as they 
require quite as much warmth and sunshine as the Grape Vine. In 
favoured south-coast districts they may be planted in the open and 
grown as standards, but as a rule the attempt should be made against 
walls in the hottest part of the garden, or against any end wall of 
building with a southern aspect. The Brown Turkey is the most 
reliable sort, none being hardier or more prolific. White Marseilles 
would, though small fruited, be a good companion for it. The soil 
should be thrown back and subsoil removed for a good space round the 
intended site of tree, and drainage given as recommended in the case of 
the Grape Vine. To the loam and garden soil should be added a pro¬ 
portion of at least one-third of either lime rubbish or chalk, this 
causing the necessary sturdy7 hardy, and fruitful growth. Carefully 
loosen and spread out the roots prior to covering these with soil, taking 
care not to bury them too deeply. Bushy plants need not be cut back, 
but those that are not well furnished with shoots ought to be cut back 
freely in order to lay a good foundation. Well established trees more 
often require thinning out than shortening back, in fact it is the neglect 
of timely thinning that frequently spoils a tree. The fruit is formed 
near the points of short-jointed, well-ripened shoots, and it follows that 
these should not be shortened in any way. Too often the greater portion 
of the bearing wood is on the top of the walls, and overshadowing and 
