March 10, 1887. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
185 
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3rd Ecndiv in Lent. 
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Liverpool Spring Show. 
CONGESTED SHRUBBERIES. 
PREPARING SHRUBS FOR REMOVAL. 
GESTED shrubbe ries form one of the most 
common features in otherwise well-managed 
pleasure grounds. The saw and pruning hook 
may occasionally he called in to relieve the 
pressure, but never with any long continued 
or satisfactory results. Especially in grounds 
where there is breadth and room enough to 
spare, it borders on folly to attempt to com¬ 
press the vigour of shrubs into defined limits. Much 
better is that system which consists in watching the de¬ 
velopment of individual specimens, and taking early steps 
to prevent any interference with their progress. But in 
the congested shrubberies such as we have in view indivi¬ 
duality has no place, and all that remains to be attempted 
is to remove the least valuable to other quarters, and so 
allow those that are left space for a less restricted 
growth. 
The removal of shrubs which have been undisturbed 
for a number of years is commonly looked upon as a work 
of some difficulty, and of much uncertainty as regards the 
ultimate well being of those removed. Large-rooted 
libreless plants present a difficulty which can only be 
satisfactorily overcome by transforming these lengthened 
thongs into short stubs bristling with fibres. This trans¬ 
formation, at the same time that it makes removal a labour 
of comparative ease, also secures the future safety of the 
plant. The way to turn long roots into short ones is easy 
enough; it simply consists in digging a narrow trench 
round and at a short space from the bole of the specimen, 
and in that operation cutting all the roots which cross the 
trench. At some seasons of the year to perform an 
operation of this kind on an old plant would mean, if not 
its death, at the very least its disfigurement. There are 
two periods when so rude-looking a method may be 
effected without in any degree impairing the health or 
marring the appearance of the specimen. The one at the 
end of August when top growth is, if not quite, yet nearly 
completed. Roots are formed somewhat rapidly during 
September and the first half of October, and the shrubs 
winter in safety and are ready for a start afresh in spring. 
The other period Is in the eirly part of the year, and is 
best defined by the condition of the plant to be operated 
on. The buds should be so far developed as to be on the 
point of breaking into shoots; perhaps at a little more 
forward stage no harm might follow, but at the stage in-j 
dicated certainly none would occur. The soil before 
being returned into the trench should be broken well up^ 
and if of poor quality and the specimen worth it, a 
quantity of light open material would be of much advan-| 
vtage placed opposite the cut roots. It is also well to see 
No. 350. —Vol. XIV., Third Series ", <■. 
that the soil is rendered firm, as this is to some extent a 
preventive of drought during summer. We lift shrubs 
treated as indicated above the autumn of the same year 
in which the roots are cut, October being a very good 
time to move them. Those who have not had experi¬ 
ence with old shrubs treated thus would be surprised to 
see the splendid balls of roots formed during tbe summer 
and autumn. We have a number to take in hand during the 
present spring, which if left longer would require to be 
cut well back, or otherwise they would permanently 
damage each other; but by root-pruning in the above 
rough fashion we shall be able to life any we choose in 
autumn without hurting them in any way. 
Though perhaps not exactly to be found in tbe head¬ 
ing of these notes, it may be admissible to point out here 
another feature in the transplanting of shrubs from one 
part of tbe grounds to another, and that is the best time 
of year in which to undertake the work. Under ordinary 
circumstances September and October would doubtless be 
selected by practical men as the best, and the month of 
April as perhaps the worst; but from experience gained 
during the past few years I am strongly inclined to con¬ 
sider the summer months as being, if not better than the 
autumn months named, at least quite as good. I should 
never hesitate now to move an evergreen while in full 
summer growth. The precautions taken -would merely be 
to see that the roots were moistened before removal, 
that dull weather should be chosen for the work, and 
that the plant be kept moist at the root for at least ten 
days in its new quarters. In a pressing case I have had 
shrubs forwarded in June from a nursery, had them on 
the road over a week, and yet lost only 5 per cent, of the 
consignment. A case of that sort is extreme and not to 
be recommended, but it is of value as showing how 
quickly and surely even such shrubs recover when the 
ground and air are warm, as is the case in summer. In 
the matter of plants to be removed from one part of the 
grounds to another on the same estate there is no fear of 
their succumbing.— Sylvan us. 
CULTURE OF CALANTUE YEITCIII AND 
C. VESTITA. 
Numerous failures appear to have occurred with the 
Calanthe in the past season. I do not propose to explain 
the cause of those failures, neither could I do so if I 
attempted ; but I will give a few particulars of the system 
by which we have always grown these plants successfully. 
As soon as all the flowers are cut and ive can detect signs 
of the pseudo-bulbs starting to grow again, we turn them 
out of the pots, separating the old from the new pseudo¬ 
bulbs, and unless we want to increase the stock we cast 
the old ones away; the new we char of all that remains 
of the old leaves, and cut the roots off to within an inch 
of the base. We give each pseudo-bulb a good sponging 
with clean soft water, this saving much work later on, as 
we never have to clean them again, but we fumigate lightly 
if a green fly makes its appearance. We then take some 
boxes about 6 inches deep, and place in them about 
2 inches of good leaf mould run through a half-inch 
sieve; on this the base of the pseudo-bulbs rests, the tops 
leaning against the end of the box, a piece of lath being 
tacked across the top of the box for the next row to lean 
against, and so on until the box is full, keeping them far 
enough apart so that it can be seen if any insects attack 
the young growth. For plants of Calanthe vestita shallower 
boxes or pans suffice without any laths. In about a month 
No. 200G.— Vol. LXXVI., Old Series. 
