194 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ March 10,1887 
given. Thus treated plants of this beautiful Lily, which were in full flower 
early in October last, have flowered again, and, as already stated, provided 
there are sufficient plants for small batches to be operated on at short 
intervals, a supply of Eucharis flowers may be had all the year by 
giving the plants ordinary stove temperature.—W. H. W. 
“CHRYSANTHEMUMS AND THEIR CULTURE”—ANSWER 
TO MR. GARNETT’S CRITIQUE. 
( Continued f rom page 174) 
Following Mr. Garnett’s notes on page 156, his experience relative 
to the forming of the buds from the earliest stages quite coincides with 
mine, excepting that the plants at Swanmore do not show so many 
“ crown buds ” as they appear to do at Wakefield. If he reads page 60 
of my work he will find I make mention of other buds—viz., one form¬ 
ing in July, which should, of course, be removed. Such plants, in my 
experience, do not show any intermediate “ crowns,” but only one 
“ crown bud,” which must be “ taken ” if it forms at about the date I 
advised. Mr. Garnett is very full in his description of the “ crown bud ” 
formation, but for all tha* he is not sufficiently clear and plain to that 
class of growers which we have most in our minds—viz., “ beginners.” 
He does not show them by any form how they are to determine “ if the 
plant is in a ripe condition, the wood consolidated and stored with 
elaborate secretions,” or whether “ the blooming propensity will pre¬ 
ponderate over the growing propensity or, on the other hand, he 
throws not the slightest light how they are to know “ if the plant is 
still grossly full of crude sap.” Without some other guide than these 
“ scientific ” terms how are they to understand whether it will be a full 
plump bud or a hen-and-chicken one ? He says it may be from over¬ 
feeding and other well known causes. (What are the well known 
causes ?) Instructions far more simple than ail these are required to 
enable beginners in the cultivation of the Chrysanthemum to produce 
the high class blooms. 
Referring to the third of the sections compiled, the varieties he 
names are not a good criterion to set up ; for who would think of grow¬ 
ing such varieties nowadays with the hope of winning prizes in good 
company (as I take it, the primary object of such cultivation in most 
cases is the exhibition table) with James Salter, Henri Jacotot, or the 
Beverleys among the incurved ? The latter are about the worst that 
could be selected to represent that section. Such sorts should not be 
set up as guides to cultivation of the highest class, and no other but the 
highest order of merit will do nowadays. If these are the varieties Mr. 
Garnett pins his faith to and sets them up as criterions and models of 
his highest class flowers, that part of the public with even little ex¬ 
perience will readily decide what to expect from that quarter ; a poor 
chance indeed would they stand in good company. 
Some three or four years since many growers were led away with the 
“ new departure ” (so to speak) system of Chrysenthemum culture for 
best blooms—viz., cutting down the plants about the time which Mr. 
Garnett names, which I take it as being of a high character to the 
method he advocates for the varieties—namely, stopping in June. 
What was the consequence ? Why, serious disappointment to those who 
were expecting cut blooms of the highest class, and a quick return to the 
older and much more successful method. 
I did not say that the dwarf plants which produce the unaccountably 
fine flowers which are sometimes to be had are dwarf through being 
topped or broken through. Mr. Garnett infers that I do. I say that 
sometimes they are produced when the plants are allowed to break 
naturally, and still remain comparatively dwarf. 
With regard to the topping of the varieties Eve and Mabel Ward, 
which I advised, this has been practised a long time and by some of the 
“ celebrated men of the North,” who adopted this plan successfully with 
the first-named precarious kind quite eleven years since ; such also has 
been my experience, although we have now discarded both. Varieties 
which produce such small narrow petals do not carry as much weight 
with good judges as do others with broader florets and of better forms, 
unless they are presented in exceptional good condition, then they are 
telling. My experience of these two kinds is that they constitutionally 
differ from the general run of other sorts. Why, I know not. 
Further on Mr. Garnett says, Yorkshire growers pin their faith on 
the second “ crown ” on stopped plants. I ask, Where have these York¬ 
shire grown blooms been on view that we are asked to accept as con¬ 
clusive of Mr. Garnett’s advice ? I have not yet heard that they have 
shone so very bright as to be taken as a standard of excellence. In an 
argument one likes to have something substantial to fall back upon. 
Again referring to the topping question, Mr. Garnett seems to infer 
that I am in favour of topping the plants at 8 inches high, whereas I 
quoted what some others practise, and I distinctly pointed out that 
blooms produced from such plants are not always of the first class, as 
they lack the two most important points—viz., depth and solidity ; and I 
venture to say that persons who follow Mr. Garnett’s advice relating to 
topping even the third section will find themselves a long way from the 
front rank when November shows come round ; more particularly if they 
depend upon such varieties as Henri Jacotot, James Salter, and the Bever¬ 
leys. No, Mr. Garnett, if you are going to teach growers to take leading 
positions you must give them other materials to work with than such 
varieties as above quoted.—E. Molyneux. 
THE CULTURE OF ACHIMENES IN HANGING BASKETS. 
On page 112 your able correspondent, “0. T.,” directed the atten¬ 
tion of readers of the Journal to the cultivation of the above named ; 
and while I fully endorse all he states in favour of the cultivation of 
Achimenes, I would point out that conservatories are usually kept cool 
and airy to induce the various flowering plants to retain their beauty 
as long as possible, and this at the time when, experience has taught 
me, the Achimenes requires a much more humid atmosphere, and were 
I to plant and attempt to grow them in such a house I should expect an 
immediate check to the young plants, and ultimate failure. Then, in 
what way can the baskets receive the abundance of water necessary, 
often twice daily, without causing a great amouut of labour in drying up 
water from the paths, so necessary to be kept clean and dry in conserva¬ 
tories ? The house in which your correspondent grows them so well 
must of necessity be kept much warmer and have a more humid atmo¬ 
sphere than is generally found in the majority of conservatories close 
to or attached to mansions. 
Although Achimenes are not grown in large numbers here, I was 
some few years ago responsible for the successful growing and flowering 
of these lovely plants in large numbers of eleven varieties for conserva¬ 
tory and house decoration, and for both purposes they are most valuable. 
The mode of culture pursued I will briefly detail. During the month of 
February the tubers were removed from their winter quarters to the 
potting shed, shaken out from the soil in which they had ripened, grown, 
and flowered the previous year. After sufficient of the best tubers 
had been selected they were at once placed in boxes and pans prepared 
for them, and started in an ordinary stove temperature upon any avail¬ 
able shelves. An early vinery is a good place for them, and in cases 
where Vines are forced early the temperature will at this time be very 
little lower than that of a stove. Plenty of light after growth com¬ 
mences is very essential, for if drawn while in the seedling pans they 
are partially spoilt for the whole season. 
When large enough to handle is the time to transplant them into 
baskets, pans, and pots according to the requirements of the grower ; 
and where the potting shed is, as they are generally found to be, con¬ 
nected with fruit and plant houses, that is the place for planting opera¬ 
tions ; and for baskets suspend one at a time from the roof of the shed 
within easy reach of the potting bench and soil to be used, then let a 
man or boy steady the basket while the young plants are being trans¬ 
ferred by a careful hand who has done, or at least assisted in the same 
work before. As each basket is filled have them removed to an early 
vinery and temporarily suspended by the side of the path, and as the 
young plants will be benefited with a little shade for a few days the 
foliage of the Vines will answer their wants. Syringe them freely two 
or three times daily until growth commences again, when they may 
be watered, and from this time never allow them to become dry until 
the end of the flowering season. Five or six days is generally long 
enough for them to remain under the shade of Vines, after which they 
must be moved and suspended in stoves or plant houses, where the 
temperature is not less than 60°. Pots and pans are treated the same 
as baskets with one exception, that of being suspended. Liquid manure 
in small quantities is beneficial to them until they commence flowering, 
but not after, and when at this stage is soon enough to remove them to 
the conservatory, after which they will gradually take water in less 
quantities. The compost advised by your correspondent on page 113 
is just what l have found to suit them.— A. Waters. 
PRESERVING HARDY FLOWERS FROM SLUGS. 
This is the time of the year that outdoor flowers are most welcome, 
and as a rule most liable to the ravages of slugs. My borders are filled 
with Anemones in variety, Narcissi an almost complete collection, 
Snowdrops in variety, more than a dozen variety of Croci, including 
Carter’s Seedlings, with Tulips, Hyacinths, Ac., all of which are now 
either blooming or preparing to do so. For many years it has been 
quite vexatious to be watching some rather rare Narcissus, curious- 
flamed or feathered Crocus, or some Anemone rather shy in blooming, 
to come out in the morning before they opened to welcome the sun— 
they only fully expand under his genial influence—to find it cut across, 
or half the bloom eaten through, or otherwise mutilated. I am not sure 
that Job himself would have preserved his equanimity under the circum¬ 
stances. To make matters more difficult, in so far as trying any 
remedy to get rid of the slug nuisance, all my beds and borders are 
edged with Box, chiefly on account of its tidy and trim appearance and 
the ease with which it can be kept so. I have tried various expedients, 
from dissection when they emerged from their lairs after a soft shower 
to tempting them with bran, Lettuce leaves, Ac., fresh lime, and so on, 
without seeming to sensibly diminish their numbers or depredations. 
This year, about a month ago, just when the first Croci and Snow¬ 
drops began to appear, I resolved to try yet another “ remedy ”—tills 
time fresh soot. It must be remembered this word I have underlined, 
“fresh,” makes all the difference. You may have soot lying aside in a 
damp place for some time ; spread that over your border and the slugs 
will be gaily parading over it at your next visit. Every time you 
require to apply a dose—and so far I have had only to do so the once— 
get it direct for the purpose from the chimney or some convenient 
accessible flue. If got in this thoroughly dry pungent state it will kill 
and effectually banish all insect and creeping enemies of your flower 
blooms it comes in contact with ; for it must be remembered those 
depredators will never feed on the liage so long as the flowers are 
within reach. If it can be applied underneath the leaves and without 
soiling the blooms so much the better, as they may be required for 
ind ior decoration, but I avoided this difficulty by applying it a month 
ago before the blooms emerged. Although rain has fallen several 
