220 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ March 17, 1887. 
necessary to render it of corresponding literary merit, and it is particu¬ 
larly important that the names of plants be corrected, as we observe 
numerous instances of erroneous spelling—some even in the index—that 
will be misleading to amateurs. We corrected one or two such errors in 
the citation given. 
HARDY FRUIT GARDEN. 
Late Pruning. —Much of the pruning of all kinds of trees will 
have been completed, but our remarks may induce some readers to 
examine then - trees a second time. Long ugly spurs standing out from 
the main branches of Pears, Cherries, Plums, and Apricots are much too 
plentiful, these if fairly fruitful yet losing the benefit of the shelter and 
heat provided by the walls. They should not be removed wholesale, the 
wisest plan being to cut back a portion of them each season. The least 
experienced cultivator will now be able to recognise all the fruit buds 
as distinguished from the wood buds, and may therefore decide where 
the long spurs can best be spared, thinning these out accordingly. The 
work should either be done with a sharp knife or strong pruning 
scissors, a pruning saw being necessary for removing extra strong spurs. 
In every case care should be taken not to drag the spurs away from the 
branches, and they may be either cut to a good back fruit or wood bud, 
or to within 1 inch of the main branch. Some of these late-shortened 
spurs may not start afresh, but as a rule a cluster of short shoots will 
form around most of them, these being eventually converted into fruit¬ 
ing spurs. A gradual reduction of the number of long and perhaps 
useless spurs, coupled with partial autumn lifting and root-pruning, a 
fresh loamy compost being given at the same time, will soon convert a 
comparatively valueless tree into a very profitable state. Some of the 
finest crops of Pears we have seen were grown on trees treated as just 
described, and other kinds of fruit trees are much benefited by similar 
treatment. 
Manuring Fruit Trees.— Poverty at the roots is a frequent 
cause of many trees failing to perfect crops of first-class fruit. When 
planted in rich loamy soil the trees need little or no manure for several 
seasons, but when in full bearing they ought to receive a surface-dress¬ 
ing of manure at least every second year. If available the preference 
should be given to half-decayed farmyard manure, this being very lightly 
forked into the surface. The roots being plentiful near the surface, 
which is most desirable, turning in the manure may destroy a few of 
them, but this is of no material consequence, plenty more being formed 
and encouraged by contact with the manure. Small fruit trees of all kinds 
are apt to root shallowly, and it may be in some few instances that 
disturbance might have an injurious effect on them, but according to 
our experience the greatest benefit attends the forking in of the manure. 
When merely laid on the surface it is apt to dry up rapidly, and it is a 
long time before the roots lay hold of it. Lightly buried it is almost 
equally effective as a mulch, none of the manurial properties are lost, 
and it does not offend the eye. Exhausted Peach and Apricot borders 
must have a good dressing of manure, or, at any rate, the trees well 
repay for any outlay in that direction, and the same remarks are equally 
applicable in the case of Pear trees. If good fresh loam is available a 
compost formed with this and decayed manure in equal quantities 
and a liberal sprinkling of lime rubbish and wood ashes may well be 
substituted for the dressing of manure. Our plan when thus treating 
the trees is to lightly fork away the old soil from the surface roots and 
add the fresh compost, facing this over with a little of the old soil. 
Fresh rootlets soon take possession of this tempting food, and these may 
be kept near the surface by the aid of timely summer mulchings of 
rough manure or short grass from the mowing machine. 
Birds and the Fruit Buds. —Bullfinches are more destructive to 
fruit buds of all kinds, with the exception of Apples, than they have 
ever been to our knowledge. Other food would appear to be scarce, and 
the long spell of cold dry weather keeps the fruit buds completely at 
their mercy. We have been obliged to place nets over Peaches, Plums, 
and Pears, or the whole of the buds would soon have disappeared. 
Gooseberries are invariably visited by these destructive pests, and late 
pruning is our surest means of securing a fairly good crop on the large 
breadths of bushes we have under our charge. This season only quite 
the lowest branches will be cut away, and what thinning out may be 
necessary will be done according as the green fruit is gathered. This 
plan answers well, but is scarcely to be commended where only a few 
bushes are grown, as in this case it is a simple matter to keep them 
either coated with strained limewash applied through a syringe, or by 
attaching plenty of cotton lengths to the outer branches, the latter 
apparently much discommoding the birds who come into contact with it. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Figs. — 'Early-forced. Trees in Pots. —The crop of Figs is now swelling 
rapidly, and the trees will require to be well supplied with water at the 
roots. They should also be syringed twice a day. If the pots are well 
drained it is scarcely possible to apply water too copiously when the 
trees arc in full growth. The night temperature may be continued at 
60° to 65°, with 10° more by day, and from sun heat an advance to 80° 
or 85°, affording plenty of ventilation when the weather is favourable. 
Planted-out Trees. — The growth is rapid, hence the necessity of 
frequent attention in stopping the shoots at the fifth or sixth leaf. As 
a well developed spur gives the best results in the second crop, when a 
number of shoots appear together they may be all removed but one. so 
as to cause it to be sturdy and fruitful. Train and regulate the ter¬ 
minals as required. Keep the house moist by daily syringing and 
damping the paths, &c., at closing time. This is a good time to propagate 
young plants from cuttings. Select shoots from 5 to G inches in length; 
with a heel of last year’s wood attached they strike very freely in 
bottom heat. 
Bines. —The rooting of potted suckers will be indicated by the growth 
of the foliage, but it is as well to turn the plants, or at least a portion of 
them, out of the pots, so as to ascertain the condition of the roots and 
the soil. The roots which issue from the suckers or plants subjected to 
similar treatment are very tender and susceptible of injury from the 
effect of too much bottom heat ; hence when they reach the sides of the 
pots a temperature of 85° is ample, above which there is danger. When 
the bottom heat is excessive the pots should be raised, placing some 
loose tan under and around them, so as to allow the superabundant heat 
to pass away. The plants must not be neglected for water at the 
roots. 
Established plants will now make roots rapidly, therefore have soil 
in readiness for transferring them to the fruiting pots, it being 
important that they be grown without check. Sound fibrous loam 
in good-sized lumps is the best material for potting, pressing it firmly 
round the roots of the plants, watering the plants with tepid water, and 
plunging them in a bottom heat of 90° to 95° until the roots have 
possession of the fresh soil, when 85° is more suitable. 
Fruiting plants and those that are near the flowering state should 
have a night temperature of 65° to 70°, and 75° by day, with 80° to 90° 
from sun heat, closing at 85°, well damping all available surfaces in the 
house at that time. Afford successional plants a bottom heat of about 
85°, ventilating at 80° and closing at 85°, lightly sprinkling the plants 
occasionally. 
Melons. —Notwithstanding the cold, the early plants have made 
good growth, and are showing fruits upon the first laterals, that admir¬ 
able variety, Eastnor Castle, being remarkably free, and Blenheim 
Orange equally so. To ensure the setting of the fruit it is necessary to 
afford a bottom heat of 80° to 85°, and sufficient moisture in the soil to 
prevent the foliage flagging. This will arrest the growth, and in com¬ 
bination with a dry atmosphere, a circulation of warm air passing 
through the house will favour the production of pollen. Fertilise the 
female blossoms every day, and stop the shoots one joint beyond the 
fruits. When the fruits commence swelling earth up the roots by placing 
warm soil against the sides of the ridges or mounds. Apply water as 
required, and avoid a sodden condition of the soil, maintaining a good 
moisture by sprinkling, morning and evening, and syringing lightly at 
closing time in bright weather. If a succession of fruit be desired in 
the same house some of the plants should be deprived of the flowers 
that appear on t-he first laterals ; stopping these at the first joint will 
cause the sub-laterals to show fruit, which will be rather later and 
finer owing to the increased vigour of the plants. 
Plants in pits and frames with the shoots trained over the surface of 
the beds will require treating in a similar manner to Cucumbers, lining 
the beds and adding soil as the plants advance in growth. Train and 
regulate the shoots, removing every alternate lateral, and apply water 
sufficiently to maintain a steady growth. As soon as the successional 
plants are ready plant them and pot the seedlings. Seed may be sown 
to yield plants for planting in pits or frames as they become cleared of 
early Potatoes, about five weeks being required to secure strong plants. 
Cucumbers. —In houses the night temperature may be increased to 
70°, watering more freely and increasing the atmospheric moisture. In 
the daytime 85° to 90° from sun heat should be allowed. Once a week 
thin out superfluous growths, not, however, removing lai'ge quantities of 
foliage at one time. Plants that have been in bearing all the winter 
may have the beds renovated by removing with a fork as much of the 
soil as can be done without injury to the roots. Supply very rich lumpy 
compost previously warmed. 
Dung-heated beds which have been made up for a few weeks will 
need good linings. Remove as much of the outside of the beds as can 
well be spared, and if the heat has not greatly declined it will suffice 
for the present if one-half the bed be lined, deferring the other half 
until the heat is again on the decrease. Let it be applied to the width 
of 2 feet. Thin linings are of little use, being soon spent and sooner 
require renewal. When the heat is up in the lining see that there is no 
accumulation of rank steam in the frame, especially when the sun is 
powerful, preventing it by ventilation. A good night covering will be 
necessary to maintain a temperature of 65° to 70° at night. Admit a 
little air at 75°, and permit the temperature to increase to. 85° or 90°, 
closing at 80° or 85°, not, however, to cause the temperature afterwards 
to exceed 90° or 95°. Add a little more soil as the roots spread on the 
surface. Attend to training and pegging the shoots, being careful not 
to overcrowd them. Stop the leading shoots a foot from the sides of 
the frame, and the laterals at one or two joints beyond the fruit. In 
watering do not wet the foliage more than can be helped. A sowing 
may be made to raise plants for growing in pits or frames that have 
been occupied by early Potatoes, Radishes, &c. In four or five weeks the 
seedlings are ready for planting. 
