March 81,1887. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
257 
Narcissus juncifolio-huticus. (G. C. xxv., p. 648.) H. bulb. A 
probable hybrid between N. juncifoliua and N. pseudo-Narcissus var. muti- 
cus, with narrow, linear, channelled 1., and a slender terete peduncle, bear¬ 
ing three fl. The two upper fl. ascending, lower one horizontal. Fl.-tube 
greenish-yellow, five-eighth in. long ; the expanded limb horizontal, bright 
lemon-yellow, lj in. in diam., segments ovate-oblong, much imbricated ; 
corona obconic, J in. long, orange-yellow. 
Narcissus Leedsi. (G. C. xxv., p. 648.) II. bulb. L. linear, twisted, 
glaucous, a ft. long, 4 lin. broad. Peduncle 1-flowered, 2 edg d. Fl. hori- 
lontal; tube J in. long, gretnish ; limb milk-white, spreading, segmentsob- 
lanceolate oblong, cuspidate, 1-1 j in long, in. broad, not imbricated; 
corona J in. long, pale sulphur-yellow, plicate and crenulate. Garden 
variety. 
Ne’fenthes amabilis. {Williams' Cat., p. 26.) Nepenthacete. S. per. 
A hybrid between N. Hookeri and N. Rafflesiana, most resembling the 
formor. The plant is of good habit, and freely produces its pitchers which 
are beautifully mottled with dark crimson. Garden hybrid. 
Nepenthes Findlayana. {Williams' Cat., p. 25, and p. 21 with fig.) 
S. per. A pleasing variety, producing a profusion of medium-sizedpitchers, 
mottled with reddish-crimson on a pale green ground. Garden hybrid. 
Nerine flexuosa, var. angustifolia. {G. C. xxiv., p. 779.) Amarylli- 
dacem. G. bulb. A very distinct plant, with linear 1. one-eighth to one- 
sixth in. broad, pubescent pedicels, and pink fl. S. Africa. 
(To be confined.) 
THE HARDY FRUIT GARDEN. 
Frost and the Fruit Blossom. —The severe frosts recently experienced 
will have greatly injured much of the Apricot blossom, this being 
especially the case in the western counties of England. In later localities 
none of the fruit buds were sufficiently advanced to be injured, and it is 
to be hoped we may yet have a good fruit year. Not only is it advisable 
to protect the Apricot and Peach blossom with either coping, blinds, 
netting, or branches of Fir, but the most valuable of the Pears on the 
walls may also be similarly treated with advantage. In most instances 
there is an abundance of fine plump buds, and a very little trouble taken 
now may be the means of insuring many dishes of good dessert fruit. 
Not till the flowers are unfolding should they be protected, heavy 
material being liable to render them weakly. It is when the flowers are 
damp that they are most liable to injury by frosts, and for this reason 
we prefer cotton or canvas blinds to doubled fish netting, the former 
materials being capable of warding off a good shower of rain. A few 
long poles let into the border at about 3 feet from the wall, and fixed 
under the coping, will serve to support the blinds, and these may be 
from 3 to 4 feet wide. All that is needed is something to check the 
radiation of heat from the wall, and to lightly screen the trees. Small 
pyramids are frequently the first to suffer from the effects of a late 
frost. If a few strong stakes are disposed so as to meet well above the 
trees the latter may at any time bn quickly covered with mats, blinds, 
brown paper, or even branches of evergreens, and the crop saved. These 
heavy protecting materials ought not to remain over the trees in the 
daytime, weakened bloom being the most susceptible of injury. Plums 
and Cherries against walls are frequently much injured by frosts, and 
the choicer sorts especially will repay for any little trouble taken to 
protect the flowers. 
Boots of Forest Trees.— Screens, in the shape of a belt of trees, do 
good service when judiciously arranged near to a kitchen garden, but 
when forest trees, notably the Elm, Ash, and Beech, are principally 
employed, the roots soon make their presence felt in the fruit borders. 
It is really surprising to note how far the roots of such trees will travel, 
the Elm perhaps being the greatest enemy to the garden. A heap of 
good turfy loam disposed at a distance of 60 feet from a tree was 
recently found completely ruined by Elm roots, these hungry foragers 
ramifying thickly throughout the heap. An ordinary wall will not keep 
them out of a garden, and even if they could not penetrate these they 
come up from under the foundations. A single tree is capable of 
exhausting a long fruit border of the greater portion of its fertility, 
hence the necessity for preventive measures. We have tried several 
plans for checking the spread of the roots, none of which is long 
effective. The greatest offenders ought really to be cut down, but if the 
owners object to this, the next best thing is to cut a deep trench at any 
convenient position outside the walls, or where it may be done without 
severing the larger roots. The depth of the trench must depend upon 
the habit of the roots, the aim being to find all that run in the direction 
of the garden. Where possible, it is advisable to leave the trench open, 
but if this is objectionable it should be filled with clinkers or cinders. 
The roots will pass through these in time, even if gas lime has been 
freely mixed with them, and when this is found to be the case another 
opening will be necessary. Spruce, Larch, and Balm of Gilead Firs are 
of quick growth, and a good belt of these will afford the requisite 
shelter without giving any cause to complain as regards their root growth. 
A hedge of common Yew or Holly affords a capital screen for a frame 
ground or a small plot of ground, the more vigorous Firs being required 
for breaking the force of winds that otherwise would do much harm in 
a large garden. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Melons.— The earliest plants have set fruits on the first laterals. 
During the setting period water should only be given to prevent flagging, 
and the atmosphere should be kept drier, with an increase of tempera¬ 
ture of about 5°, a circulation of warm air being conducive to a good 
set. Fertilise the blossoms every day, pinching out the points of the 
shoot one or two joints beyond the fruit. When the fruits are set and 
about the size of a Walnut give a thorough watering ; in a day or two 
earth up with rich, turfy, rather strong loam, previously warmed, press¬ 
ing it down rather firmly, and again supply water. Stop the subse¬ 
quent growth to one or two joints, removing superfluous growths. If 
the bottom heat be increased 5°, or to 85°, it will assist the swelling of 
the fruit, the night temperature 70°, and 75° in the day by artificial 
means, ventilating from that point, increasing to 85° or 90°, and closing 
at 85° sufficiently early to run up to 90° or 95° or 100°. Syringe mode¬ 
rately at 3 p.m. on bright warm afternoons ; damp in the morning, and 
keep the evayoration troughs regularly filled with liquid manure. Fail¬ 
ing the evaporation troughs, sprinkle available surfaces in the house 
with liquid manure before nightfall. Plants in restricted borders should 
have liquid manure, always in advance of the temperature of the house, 
and a mulching of rather lumpy manure on the surface. 
Train the growths of later plants regularly, removing at least every 
alternate lateral, rubbing them off directly they are perceived, the re¬ 
mainder being left at the right and left sides of the main stem, pinching 
out the latter or primary stem after it has extended two-thirds of the 
required distance, and increasing the supply of moisture both at the 
roots and atmosphere as the days lengthen. In pots and frames a 
bottom heat of 80° should be secured to plants that are growing freely ; 
in newly made beds the bottom heat should be about 90°. Renew the 
linings as required, and employ thick night coverings. 
Cucumbers. —The season so far has been a trying one for Cucumbers, 
but we may shortly expect plenty of sun, and it is probable the foliage 
will flag under its influence, an evil which may be obviated by shading 
with some light material for a couple of hours at mid-day when the sun 
is brightest. Assist plants in full bearing with frequent applications of 
weak liquid manure, and earth up the roots occasionally. Care must, 
however, be taken not to apply the horse droppings too abundantly and 
too often, or it will injure the foliage. Plants in bearing for any length 
of time should have the old exhausted soil removed with a small fork, 
not injuring the roots, and replacing it with good rich lumpy compost 
previously warmed. Thin out the exhausted growths, and encourage 
fresh bearing shoots. Expel worms with lime or soot water, a peck to 
30 gallons of water, stirred well up, letting it stand forty-eight hours, 
then watering with the clear liquid. Subdue canker at the collar and 
in the old growths by rubbing quicklime into the affected parts. Damp 
the floor at about seven o’clock in the morning, and again in the after - 
noon at three o’clock, syringing the foliage gently on warm afternoons, 
and keep the evaporation troughs regularly charged with liquid manure. 
Stopping and training must be attended to at least once a week. Main¬ 
tain a night temperature of 70°, 75° by day, 80° to 85° from sun, and 
close sufficiently early to run up to 90°, or even 100°, with abundance of 
atmospheric moisture. Ventilate moderately and early, avoiding sudden 
changes of temperature, and above all currants of cold air, which cripple 
the foliage and cause the young fruit to become deformed and to swell 
irregularly. 
Keep a good degree of heat in pits and frames by the renewal or 
application of good linings. Train the growths rather thinly, pegging 
them down as required, stopping one joint beyond the show of fruit. 
Add fresh warmed soil to the ridges or hillocks as the roots extend. Be 
moderate in the application of water, as the nights are as yet cold, and 
employ thick night coverings. Admit a little air early, so as to get a 
change of air and the foliage fairly dry before the sun acts powerfully 
upon it, keeping through the day at 80° to 85° from sun, and close early 
in the afternoon, no harm accruing if the temperature rise to 90° or 95° 
and more, only there is no rank steam, which must be carefully guarded 
against, having a little ventilation constantly in case danger be appre¬ 
hended from it. 
Figs.— Earliest Forced Trees in Pots.— The fruit of such varieties as 
Early Prolific and Early Violet will soon be showing signs of ripening, 
upon which syringing must cease and a lessened supply of water given, 
or the fruit will be insipid ; but keep those swelling the fruit well sup¬ 
plied with water until ripening commences, when a circulation of warm 
air will be necessary to secure well-ripened high quality fruit. The 
temperature should be 60° to 65° at night, 70° to 75° by day from fire 
heat, 80° to 85 4 with sun, advancing 5° to 10° after closing, admitting 
air or increasing it from 75°, closing at 80° to 85°. 
Feeding .—No other fruit tree produces surface roots so abundantly 
as the Fig, if measures be taken to encourage them by means of a mulch 
of 3 inches thickness of partially decayed manure given when the trees 
are fairly in growth. This, if kept in a moist state, will be full of active 
feeders by the time the trees need the most support in order to perfect 
the crop. It is astonishing what heavy crops Fig trees will carry, only 
they have not a large rooting space, a calcareous soil, thorough drainage, 
mulching to encourage and keep the roots active at the surface, and all 
the light possible. They will take and appropriate most any amount of 
liquid' manure, therefore afford it liberally to trees swelling their crops. 
Trees in pots will of course require it more frequently than planted out 
trees, especially where reversed turves have been placed over the rims of 
