JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER, 
L April 7.1887. 
278 
the small ones, like Ten-y-byd, are extremely free and of first-rate 
quality; 
Carrots. —Those in frames arc growing rapidly and require frequent 
attention in thinning. Some may think that the closer they are grown 
the more plentiful will be the supply. That is a mistake, as closely 
grown frame Carrots inv-ariabl-y-fail to 1 make roots freely or well, and 
the most profitable beds are those which arc never allowed to become 
crowded. We begin thinning our plants when they arc about 1 inch in 
height- and they are thinned more and more if necessary until they are 
almost ready for drawing for use. Some of our readers have been 
anxious as to the condition of their Horn Carrots that w ere sown in the 
open before the recent frost and sno-v came ; but judging by the free 
way our crops are showing on-a south border there is no danger of their 
failing. The seed for the-maimerop of Carrots should be sown as soon 
as the w eather will allow. James’s Scarlet Intermediate is the best 
variety for a general crop, and Sutton’s. Improved Intermediate is a 
useful sort. The soil for this crop should be rather of a light character, 
free from rough manure and containing no worms. We have a large 
quarter that produces admirable Celery and, good Carrot-. The. place 
the Carrots occupied last year .wiU .be given to Celery this time, and v at 
versa. This system has been, followed .for years with the. best results, 
and as the Celery is always heavily manured,. as well as receiving liberal 
additions of sand arid- ashes in being -earthed up, it comes in well for 
the Carrots afterwards witljgjit further dressing, excepting applying a 
quantity of lime, gas lime, soot, or salt to make sure of destroying the 
grubs. The main crop rows may be 15 inches apart, the seed, being 
about 1 \ inch belowr tbe. surface, tint} the whole rolled after sowing and 
covering. , ,, . ,, ;. i . , 
Celery. —Our crop.,of -last-year ids drawing, to a close, and prepara¬ 
tions are being-.carried ou ; to get tljenew crops on as quickly as possible. 
The early plants which have been -raised .in heat should be hardened as 
soon as they attain a height of 3 inches or 4 inches. Keep them near the 
glass, well in the light, and on no account allow them to suffer by want 
of moisture at the roots. Through close attention to this point we have 
not lost a plant by seeding prematurely for many years, but the plants 
in question will be ready for use in 4ugust, and they will be oypr by 
November, and a quantity of seed should be sown at once to produce 
plants which will maintain the supply. during the winter. This may. be 
termed the main crop of Celery, as the next sowing will be made to 
procure plants for late spring use. A few ti-inch pots or an old cutting 
box will raise as many plants as will plant out many trenches. Sow 
good seed thinly, let it germinate in a temperature of 60°, and give the 
plants plenty of air from the time they come through the soil. 
Lettuce. —So long as the weather is cold and wintry the majority 
of people do not think of using Lettuces, but when the warm weather 
sets in the demand commences, and there neetl be no difficulty in having 
abundance. Seed to yield Lettuces in June and July should be sown 
at once. A little patch in any favourable spot in the open ground will 
soon produce many plants, and we, never think of sowing our Lettuce 
seed anywhere after this time, but in the open ground. Stir the surface 
of the soil between advanced -Lettuces from seed sown last autumn, and 
plant out those which were reared.under.glass this spring. Place them 
in rich soil and a sunny position, and they will be large, crisp, and 
tender in a few weeks. We are just planting out promising Lettuces of 
the Early Paris Market variety. 
Tomatoes.— Give those maturing fruit abundance of liquid manure. 
Pot a successional batch. Give thpse intended for open air culture more 
root room, and keep them in a temperature which will induce them to 
grow, as it is a great advantage to have open air plants to a good size 
before placing them out, 
Radishes. —Those in frames are advancing freely. They bring a good 
price in the market and ai'e very acceptable at the table. There should 
not be any falling off in the- supply now, and a little bed of seed should 
be sown once a fortnight. Make the surface very firm after sowing, 
and see that, birds do not pick up the seed or pull out the young 
plants. 
Kidney Beans. —Cooling’s Ne Plus Ultra has been our best variety 
under glass this spring. It is excellent, being compact in growth and 
very prolific, but thpse who have plenty of them now and more plants 
coming on may be inclined to think that -they need sow no more under 
glass, as the open air crops may soon be placed in ; but this is not correct, 
as it will be the end of June before-the open air crops bear fruit, and 
all plants in leaf now under glass will have finished fruiting before that 
time. It is therefore necessary to sow more seed under protection, and 
if in any old boxes or empty frames, many pods will be produced before 
those in the open air are formed. Kidney Beans are now so easdy 
grown under glass that everyone who owns a frame should try a 
batch. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Pines. —The suckers or plants which were started early in March 
now require attention. The pots must be full of roots, but before the 
plants are root-bound shift them into the fruiting size, watering them a 
day or two previously so as to have the soil moderately moist when they 
are potted. They may be shifted into 10, 11, or 12-inch pots. Take 
advantage of the removal of the plants to examine the bed, replenishing 
it if needed by the addition of fresh tan, mixing it with the old to a 
depth that will afford the temperature required—viz., 95° at the base of 
the pots until the roots reach the sides, when 90° is more suitable. 
Keep the air about such plants well charged with moisture during the 
time the house is closed, employing no more fire heat than is absolutely 
necessary to maintain a night temperature of 70° to 75° on mild nights. 
Ventilate slightly at 80°, liberally at 90°, closing with sun heat at 85°, 
at which time syringe the plants. This treatment will be available for 
fruiting plants, except such as are in bloom, which should not be 
syringed. Examine the plants twice a week, and water those that 
require it. 
Strawberries in Pots. —The weather until lately has been very 
unfavourable for plants in flowers, which are liable to get chilled by an 
iuflux of cold air acting directly oil the flower, as is the case with plants 
on a level with the ventilators. It is well when the ventilators are above 
the plants or beneath the pots ; in such positions we have the Straw¬ 
berries doing well, whilst those on a level with the ventilators are doing 
as indifferently. In dull and wet weather it is well to shake the flowers 
occasionally when the pollen is ripe, and where fine fruit is wanted it is 
desirable to thin the flowers, leaving from eight to a dozen on a plant, 
and selecting the boldest for retention, which are usually the first to 
expand, the centre fruit of the truss being usually the largest, and not 
unfrequcntly cockscomb-shaped. It is also advisable to thin the fruits 
after they are fairly swelling. We find that if we have a dozen or more 
fruits to a plant, about a third are fairly good fruit and the others 
small, the total weight being no more than when the fruits arc thinned 
to half-a-dozen. Fruit of 1 oz. weight are useful, but the larger the 
better, though we have not had them exceeding 2 ozs. weight from pots, 
and only once had twelve fruits weighing a pound before June. Colour 
must accompany size in a forced Strawberry. This makes Sir Charles 
Napier so esteemed for market, and La Grosse Sucree will bring far 
more per pound than President. There is no question that appearance 
has a great deal to do with fruit, whether for home use or marketing. 
The great secret in forcing Strawberries is keeping them properly 
supplied with water. They should be examined twice a day, and in 
bright weather three times, and any wanting water must have it liberally, 
giving liquid manure two or three times a week when the fruit is swell¬ 
ing. There is nothing like slow and progressive growth for Strawberries 
up to and past the flowering, then they swell best in a high temperature 
and moist but not very confined atmosphere. Hard forcing does not 
suit such varieties as Dr. Hogg and British Queen, they with Cockscomb 
being the best late varieties for forcing. Sir Joseph Paxton and Pre¬ 
sident are excellent for home use, but they do not take in the markets, 
and they will not bear forcing to anything like the extent of La Grosse 
Sucree, Vicomtesse Hericart de Thury, Keen’s Seedling, &c , and later Sir 
C. Napier and even Marguerite are superb. We grow Strawberries (five 
thousand) in all our fruit houses, and have two shelves in each house. 
One shelf is occupied with an early variety and the other with a mid¬ 
season sort, or a midseason and a late variety respectively, so that there 
is no break in the succession. A house 100 feet long gives a number of 
Strawberries. In the later batches the trusses are coming very strong, 
and with them green aphides, which must be kept under by fumi¬ 
gation. 
Cherry House.— If the trees are heavily laden with fruits the 
demand for nutriment will be greater, as such trees will be less vigorous 
than those with fewer fruit, and whilst the former will be benefited by 
the application of liquid manure, the latter should have clean water. A 
good soaking of those elements most suited to the requirements of the 
trees should be given, and as often as required, to maintain the soil in a 
thoroughly moist condition. Inside borders are most suitable for fruit 
trees subjected to early forcing, as they afford a better temperature, 
more corresponding to that in which the trees are growing, and. rendering 
the progress of the crop more certain and satisfactory, provided due 
regard is paid to affording the needful supplies of water. Attend to 
ventilation and temperature as advised in our last calendar, syringing 
the trees twice every day, and keeping the surface of the borders con- 
stantlv moist. As soon as the shoots have made four or five joints 
they should have the points pinched out so as to form spurs, but those 
required for furnishing the trees should be tied in position early and be 
carefully trained in their full length. Aphides must be kept under by 
repeated fumigation, as if they obtain much hold they are not only 
difficult to exterminate, but spoil the appearance of the fruit. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Tree Carnations .—If sufficient cuttings have not been already rooted 
for the supply of flowers during the autumn, winter, and spring, a num¬ 
ber should be inserted at once. To insure a good strike select firm 
sturdy cuttings from plants that have been grown under cool conditions. 
Cuttings from plants drawn weakly in a close atmosphere will nearly all 
fail, so that if plants are in this condition, thoroughly harden them be¬ 
fore an attempt is made to strike them. Firm, sturdy cuttings will root 
as freely at this season, if inserted in cocoa-nut fibre refuse, where a 
night temperature of 65° can be maintained, as they will under bell- 
glasses and handliglits. The cuttings must be dewed occasionally and 
shaded from the sun. It is useless to insert them in a structure that is 
not kept perfectly close ; under such conditions they must be under bell- 
glasses. Directly they are rooted, place them singly in 2-inch pots, in a 
compost of leaf mould and loam in equal proportions, with a liberal 
addition of silver sand. If returned to the same structure for ten days 
or a fortnight they will commence root growth in the new compost. 
They may then be removed to a vinery at work, where the temperature 
does not exceed 60°, and from this position gradually hardened to cold 
frame treatment. A good method of preparing them for cool treatment 
is to make a slight hotbed in a frame, and either stand them on the sur¬ 
face or plunge them in it. By this treatment the plants can be hardened 
without the risk of checking them. A number rooted now will make 
excellent plants in C-inch and 7-inch pots for flowering next spring. 
