Apr!] 21.1887. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
307 
the point up and down, and so open out the bark on either side of 
the cut. Xow holding the bud between the finger and thumb by 
the leafstalk, gently insert the end of it under the bark as shown 
at l, and then with the handle of the knife, or with the fingers, the 
bud may be pushed home with a light pressure, as at m. Very 
little practice will enable the beginner to do this quickly and with 
ease. Lastly, if the bark of the bud, or shield as it is called, pro¬ 
trudes beyond the cross cut when in position, it should be cut 
across level with the cross cut, so that the bark of the shield and 
the bark of the stock just meet. In making the cross cut in the 
first instance, great care must be exercised so as not to cut deeper 
than just through the bark, otherwise, the wood being very brittle, 
the branch is almost certain to get broken short otf at this point, 
and in that case the result is generally the death of the inserted 
b id. Now hike a piece of raffia or tying grass about a foot in 
length. Let it bo damped, because in this shite it can be made to 
fit round the bud much better than when it is used dry. Bind the 
bud in tightly—you cannot bind it in too tightly, so long as the 
raffia holds together, but you can very easily bind it in too loosely 
■—do not fear wrapping it up too much ; the tip of the bud and the 
leafstalk are generally allowed to protrude (see fig. 57 at m ), but it 
is much better to tie in both than to allow a lot of the cut portion 
of the bark to be uncovered ; if this be so, the bud will in all pro¬ 
bability fail. Let the knot with which you finish off be on the 
under side of the shoot, otherwise it will be the means of collecting 
rain, which, making its way into the cut parts of the bark, may 
cause our work, in every other respect correct, to end in failure. 
Fig. 57 at n shows the bud tied in. 
The cutting of the bud, the removal of the wood therefrom, 
the making of the incisions in the stock, the inserting and tying in 
of the bud, should all bo accomplished as quickly as possible. To 
avoid breaking and tearing the bark, to be careful not to touch the 
sappy parts of either stock or scion, and to keep all dirt and sand 
out of the incisions, are all points that should claim our attention 
if we aim at success. In about three weeks the buds may be gone 
over, and the tying material removed. If the buds appear healthy 
and plump no further attention is necessary, but if any of them 
are dead and shrivelled up, then it will be necessary to rebud them. 
To enable the operator to do this in the shoots budded before, it is 
as well at the first budding to make the cut in the shoot a little on 
one side—that is, suppose a first bud put in a little to the right side 
of a shoot, then a second, if found necessary, could be put in quite 
easily on the left or opposite side. If we bud right on the top at 
first, and the bud fails, it is next to impossible to insert a bud 
underneath without standing pretty nearly on one’s head to do it. 
Budding dwarf or ground stocks is not near so agreeable an occu¬ 
pation as the foregoing. Here the operator has to kneel down. 
It is no joke for him to occupy*this position, even for an hour at 
a time, with his bick in a curve and his head bent nearly to the 
ground. A pair of old trousere are most certainly a sine qua non 
for the work. If new ones are worn they will be apt to bag at the 
knee afterwards more than is desirable. A sack filled with straw 
and hay forms a good cushion to kneel upon, and will be found a 
boon. 
In planting dwarf stocks for budding every care should be taken 
not to put them in too deep ; the roots should be as near the 
surface as possible, so that the buds may be inserted, low down, 
close to the roots. Suppose a cutting is made, say 10 inches long, 
with the end or top of it just out of the ground, then the base of 
that stock or cutting will be about 9 inches deep. Suppose the 
bud be inserted just below the ground line, the result will be that 
when the plant is taken up and transplanted to permanent quarters, 
if it be planted properly, with the union of scion and stock about 
2 inches below the surface, the roots will be about a foot under¬ 
ground, and much too far a-sfray from air and sun. No, let the 
stocks be planted with the roots as near the surface as possible ; it 
is better to have to draw the soil round them as we do round 
Potatoes, if necessary to keep them moist during the growing 
season, than to have them put in too deep. We should be able to 
put the bud in immediately over the roots, not with 8 or 9 inches 
of stock between roots and scion, which, as stated before, necessi¬ 
tates deep planting. I spoke somewhere of the collar of a plant, 
and described it as being the part where the roots joined the 
branches ; we must be careful to insert the bud below that, other¬ 
wise we shall be everlastingly tormented with crowds of suckers 
rising at all times. A plant of this kind should be got rid of at 
once ; it can never be cured if budded above the collar. Stay ! if 
very badly budded, should it happen to be on a Briar stock, it 
might be converted into a little dwarf standard. 
When we are prepared to bud the stocks we must first draw 
away the soil round them, so as to lay bare the bark where we 
intend to insert the bud. The best tool for this purpose is a hoe, 
but in using it care must be exercised so as not to bruise the bark, 
which is very soft and tender. A cloth will also be necessary to 
wipe the grit and dirt from the stems, otherwise these work into 
the cut parts and are very objectionable. In budding in a wholesale 
way, only a few should be uncovered at once, as the contact with 
the air and sunshine quickly dries the bark, and then it will not 
work so satisfactorily. If the stocks are in full growth—their state 
may be easily ascertained by cutting the bark and raising it—the 
bark will rise freely, in many cases even more so than that of the 
branches of standard stocks. The bud is to be inserted and tied 
just in the same way as directed for standards, the only difference 
in the two operations being, that in the one case we bud the branch, 
and in the other the root or lower part of the main stem. As in 
the ose of standards, so with dwarfs, the buds may be, indeed 
should be, untied in about three weeks’ time, and if alive and doing 
well they will need no further attention until spring comes. If 
any of the buds are found to have failed it is an easy matter to 
rebud the stocks on the opposite side of the stem.—D. Gilmoue, ju.n. 
(To be continued.) 
GROWING PRODUCE FOR MARKET. 
If there is anything that will try a gardener’s ability it is growing 
for market as well as to supply the private establishment. He must 
not only be able to grow fruit, flowers, and vegetables, he must also be 
a good salesman, and be able to keep accounts. I feel sure there is 
plenty of room in our markets for home-grown produce, or how is it 
we have to compete with so much foreign produce, not only fruit but 
vegetables as well, much of which is grown under glass, and the houses 
are worked so that they get two and three crops in the season ? 
I will try and point out how I work my early vinery so as to make 
it pay. This house is started the first week in January. I have Vines 
on the south side only ; on the north side I grow Tomatoes. Boxes are 
stood on the stage, and are half-filled with good maiden loam and a 
small quantity of manure taken from an old Cucumber bed. In these 
are placed, about 2 feet apart, good strong plants struck from cuttings 
the previous autumn, and these plants, owing to the want of sun, will 
be sure to become di-awn. As I have. only about 6 feet of rafter to 
spare for them, owing to the Vines, I have to bring them down so as to 
get my first setting of fruit close to the. soil, and this is done with great 
care, so as not to snap the plants. Last year I coiled them down, 
then filled the boxes with good loam, and I never wish for a better crop 
of Tomatoes. This year, instead of coiling them, I have bent the first 
plant down and made it fast to number 2 stake, and number 2 
plant to the first plant, and so on. We then fill the boxes with loam 
pressed firmly, taking care to remove all side shoots as soon as they 
show themselves. Tomatoes that are grown in pots for early use are 
all coiled down, and the pots then filled with loam. If this is properly 
managed we have first setting of fruit close to the rim of the pot. I 
only grow one variety of Tomato for early work, and that is a selected 
Old Red. I always get two good crops of Tomatoes from this house 
during the season, and this comes in very useful for the Ferns when 
they have made their growth in the Cucumber house. They are brought 
in here so as to harden them, and I do not find that the Tomato affects 
the Grapes in the least. 
When Tomatoes are raised from seed great care should be taken in 
selecting the plants. If any of the seedling plants produce a bunch of 
