308 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ Aptil SI, 1 £7. 
small leaves at their joints before side shoots issue, the plants should be 
thrown away. I have taken particular notice that when they fruit they 
only show two or three bunches at the most, and these fruits are much 
deformed ; plants that make a quick growth and throw their side shoots 
out clear from the main stem arc those to keep for a future crop.—J. 
Wallace, King's Lynn. 
CUCUMBER CULTIVATION. 
{Continued from page 287.) 
Raising Plants. —The seed is best sown in large 60’s or 3^-inch 
pots. A little more than half filling these with soil pressed firmly. 
Place a seed in each and cover them about half an inch deep. The 
pot may be covered with a small pane of glass, and the soil being 
moist no water will be necessary. In a temperature of 70° to 75° 
artificially the plants will appear within a week, and the glass must 
be withdrawn. It is essential that the plants be kept near to the 
glass. They cannot have too much light. If placed in bottom 
heat it must not exceed 90° at the base of the pots—80° is more 
suitable. Add soil as the plants increase in growth and water as 
necessary, only giving it to prevent flagging. Shift into 6-inch 
pots when the 3i-inch pots are filled with roots, watering a few 
hours previously so that the roots will turn out clean. Pot mode¬ 
rately firm, and place a small stick to each of those required for 
trellises, and secure them loosely with matting as the growths 
advance. Remove laterals as they show in the axils of the leaves 
up to the height of stem required to reach from the bed to the 
trellis. The plants will be fit to place out in their permanent 
quarters in four to six weeks. They must not be allowed to become 
root-bound, but if the bed is not ready at the proper time shift into 
larger pots. Seed of some age is occasionally used, it should be 
avoided. Plants are sometimes raised from cuttings ; they are 
equally as objectionable as plants from old seed through impaired 
vitality. New seed thoroughly ripened gives the healthiest and best 
plants. 
Soil. —Turfy loam of medium texture cut 2 to 3 inches thick 
laid up until the grass is killed, three parts, fibrous peat of a sandy 
nature the top 2 or 3 inches only, one part, charcoal broken up so 
as to pass through an inch sieve half a part, old mortar rubbish 
broken up, the pieces of wood picked out, and passed through a 
half-inch sieve, half a part. The loam must be broken in pieces an 
inch to 2 inches square ; the peat the same, and the whole 
thoroughly incorporated. The soil should be in that condition 
known as neither wet nor dry. If wet it must be placed under 
cover and have time to dry slightly before being broken and mixed. 
A bushel of soot may be added to every thirty of compost. It is 
good against worms, and adds immensely to the colour of the 
foliage and fruit. Clay’s, Beeson’s, Jensen’s, and other manures 
are excellent, and may be applied at half the rate advised for soot, 
• or one part in thirty. The whole to be thoroughly incorporated. 
Good loam alone will grow Cucumbers well, the top spit being 
used, and with its turf if any. Even ordinary garden soil will 
answer, having some fresh horse droppings mixed with it to the 
extent of one-fifth. The debris of the rubbish heap reduced to 
mould, the woody portions picked out, charred, and returned make 
a capital compost, especially if it has had a tenth part of lime added 
to it and the compost has been turned a few times so as to become 
mixed. I have seen the top few inches of land found near rivers 
liable to be flooded used—in one instance it was used for more than 
fifty years without any admixture, and the results were very satis¬ 
factory. I have used the top 3 or 4 inches of peaty loam— i.e., the 
parts covered with short grass and fed off by sheep, both on the 
lias and limestone formations, finding it very suitable laid up until 
the turf was reduced and not adding anything. It was largely fur¬ 
nished with crystal sand. Roadside turf cut 2 or 3 inches thick 
and laid up in narrow ridges or stacks until the turf is decayed is 
also suitable. Manure of any kind is not advised when the com¬ 
post consists in part or wholly of turfy materi 1—decomposing 
matter. 
The Beds.—I f the bottom heat is furnished by hot-water 
pipes and rubble used, the roughest should be placed under, about, 
and over the pipes, the top 3 inches being finer, similar to road metal, 
having 6 inches of material altogether over the hot-water pipes, and 
this may be secured over the surface with a layer of turves, grass 
side downwards. The intention being to have a chamber, then the 
6ide walls should have a ledge, obtained by bringing up a 4i-inch 
wall to such a height that the curving or bottom of the bed will be 
exactly an inch clear of the sockets of the hot-water pipes. On 
this ledge the covers will rest. Flags, slates, or boards 2 inches 
thick may be used, oak being best. The joints must be left open, 
and if boards are used strips of wood being placed between at the 
ends to keep them a quarter of an inch apart. Some rubble, about 
2 or 3 inches thick, should be placed on the boards or flags and 
secured with a layer of turves grass side downwards. Instead of 
having a dry bottom heat a moist heat is readily secured by having 
the bed cemented at the bottom and sides up to the level of the 
ledge for the flags or boards, filling this space with water. An 
over-flow pipe will be required on a level with the upper side of the 
hot-water pipe sockets, and be conveyed to a drain. The water 
from the roof may be conducted into these bed cisterns, and warm 
rain water will always be available for watering and syringing. It 
can be removed from the cisterns or tanks by making a cesspool 
in the pathway, about 2 feet square, and the depth or a little more 
of a large watering pot, or 18 inches, cemented round and at the 
bottom, and a tap fixed 3 inches from the bottom of the tanks will 
allow of water being drawn from them at will. This is a very 
simple contrivance. I had water laid on so that the cisterns could 
be replenished when th9 rainfall was inadequate. 
If fermenting materials are used for bottom heat the tan should 
be had under cover, kept dry, and turned a time or two before being 
placed in the beds. Three feet depth of it is sufficient, and it must 
be trodden down to lessen the sinking afterwards a9 much as pos¬ 
sible, making an allowance for settling by keeping the bed somewhat 
higher in the first instance, but 3 feet of tan is ample even at the 
commencement. Leaves and dung being employed, they must be 
thrown into a heap in the proportion of two or three parts to one 
of stable dung, watered if necessary to make them moist, and when 
they are warmed through turn them, adding water to any dry parts, 
thoroughly shaking out any lumps and incorporating the materials. 
If the turning is repeated once or twice the materials will be in a mild 
fermentation, having parted with the rank steam, and should be put 
in the bed 4 feet thick very evenly and firmly, allowing about a 
fourth for settling. In the course of a week the heat will have 
reached its maximum in the materials, and if it does not exceed 90 3 
or 95° a couple of inches beneath the surface the soiling operations 
may be done, but if the heat is violent make holes in it 9 to 12 inches 
distance apart and 18 inches deep to let out the heat, and when it 
has declined to 90° or 95° close these. Cover the fermenting 
materials with a thin layer of turves or an inch thickness of soil so 
as to keep back the vapour or modify it. 
Hillocks and Ridges. —Form hillocks where the plants are 
intended to be placed 12 inches deep, 1 foot across at top and 2 feet 
at the base, cone shaped, with a flattened top. The soil made 
moderately firm. In a ridge the soil is continuous, the whole length 
of the house, 12 inches deep, 1 foot across at the top and 2 feet at 
the base. The centre of the hillocks or ridges 9 to 12 inches from 
the side walls of the house. With hillocks they must be at such 
distance apart as will suit the plants, with ridges the plants can be 
placed anywhere to suit the wish of the cultivator. 
Distance for the Plants. —One plant to each light, 4 to 
4£ feet, this for the 14 feet wide house. For the 10 feet house 
6 feet. The distances are calculated on the principle that the plants 
will not be kept after they have borne a full crop or been in fruit 
for a period of three or four months. If intended to be kept 
longer, bearing over an extended period, the plants must have space 
for extension so as to keep up a succession of young growths to 
replace old or exhausted growths. This of course can be effected 
by cutting away every alternate plant. Sometimes plants are grown 
in pots, alternating with those planted out for early fruiting—an 
admirable arrangement, the permanent plants not being weakened 
by early fruiting. In this way a house furnished with plants from 
an August sowing will furnish fruit from the pot plants in autumn 
sufficient for the supply to Christmas.—G. Abbey. 
(To be continued.) 
CUNNINGHAM’S DWARF WHITE RHODODENDRON. 
In reply to “ W. D. B.,” I have several reasons for thinking that 
this Rhododendron was sent out by M-. Cunningham of Comely Bank, 
Edinburgh. My father brought it from there about fifty years ago, and 
at the same time plants of It. caucasicum album. Mr. Fraser of Comeley 
Bank writes me respecting Dwarf White :—“ This Rhododendron was 
raised at Comely Bank by my uncle, the late Mr. Cunningham, more 
than half a century ago, a fact I never before hoard disputed.” I am 
aware that caucasicum album is now named Cunningham’s Dwarf 
White in some nurseries, but anyone who looked at the two sorts grow¬ 
ing near each other would see the difference. The Dwarf White lias 
smaller foliage, later in flower, and more pink in colour. I consider 
caucasicum album one of the most useful shrubs, as it is more hardy 
than ponticum, a most profuse bloomer, beautiful habit, and by having 
a succession of plants and a good heat easily had in flower from Christ¬ 
mas until May, a season when white flowers are not very plentiful. It 
is also a good plant for banks instead of Laurels, the habit being com¬ 
pact and growth sturdy. For town gardens and planting on graves it 
is invaluable. I should" not speak with such confidence, but have kept 
both varieties true by layering for many years, and increased caucasicum 
album by tecs of thousands.—J ohn Carter, Keighley. 
