Afril 23, 1887. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
341 
exhibit'd, and his stand was much admired. Not only were the spikes 
very large and good, but the foliage was a rich green, and not too much 
drawn. The following were his best flowers Mont Blanc, Lord Derby, 
La Grandesfe, Koh-i-noor, BlondiD, Fabiola, General Havelock, and Von 
Schiller. Mr. J. McIntyre, gardener to Mrs. Gurney Pease, was second, and 
Messrs. Henry Ce^ar & Co. third. The latter were splendid flowers, some 
persons considering they ought to have been recond ; but the foliage was 
rather drawn, hence probably the award of the Judges. For twelve Hyacinths 
Mr. )\ atson was again first w i:h similar varieties; Mr. J. Punton second ; and 
Jlessrs. H. Dewar Jr Co. third. In the corresponding class for twelve Hya¬ 
cinths Mr. J. Wood, gardener to H. N. Middleton, Esq., Fenham Hall, was 
first, and Mr. J. Punton second, both of these stands containing examples of 
good culture that could not be easily surpassed. 
Cot Flowers and Table Decorations. —For twelve Camellias Mr. J. 
Wood was first; Mathot ana Alba, Jubilee, Alba Plena, and Imbiicata being 
very fine. For twelve bunches of Rhododendrons Mr. F. C. Ford was first, 
Countess Haddington being the predominating variety. Mr. J. Short was 
first with Azaleas in bunches, very superior. For Roses Mr. J. Wright was 
first with grand blooms of Marechal Niil. Pansies were never shown so 
well at this time of the year in the north; Messrs. A. Bailey A Sons, 
Bouthwick, Sunderland, were first for Show varieties, and Mr. Thomas 
Battensby, Blaydon, for Fancy. The epergnes and bouquets were most 
tasteful. For drawing-room epergnes Mr. Geo. Webster, Stockton Road, 
fcunderland, was first with a neat arrangement consisting of Dendrobium 
densiflornm, Narcissus poetiens, Spiraras, Cat'leyas, Eucharis, and Azaleas, 
all very effectively blended and relieved with Ferns. Mr. W. R. Armstrong 
was second with a very eood epergne approaching to the first in merit. 
For the bridal bouquet Messrs. Perkins & Son, Coventry, were first with an 
arrangement of Camellias, Ccelogyne cridata, L:ly of the Valley, Eucharis 
amazonica, ifcc For a hand bouquet Mr. J. R. Chard, Brunswick Nurseries, 
London, was first with a bouqu t where choice flowers skill, and good taste 
were employed. In the ladies’spray Messrs. Perkins & Son were first with 
«n effective arrangement of Lily of the Valley, Caelogyne cristate, Azaleas, 
and Ferns all effectively combined. In the amateurs’ division Messrs. 
Battensby and Douglas were the prizewinners for epergnes and hand 
bouquets resp etivelv. 
A grand stand of Clematises, not for competition, from Messrs. R. Smith 
and Sons, Worcester, attracted much atten ion; Mr. J. Wardle, nursery¬ 
man, Collingwood Street, Newcastle, showed a good stand of stove plants ; 
Messrs. Fell it Co., Hexham, a choice collection of hardy and conifeious 
plants adapted to towns ; and Messrs. Wood & Sous, nurserymen, London, 
horticultural manures and specialties. 
The various objects were beautifully arranged; and the Staging Com¬ 
mittee, the Treasurer (S. Gray, Esq.), the Secretai-y (Mr. J. J. Gillespie), are 
to be congratulated on the success of their wel!-me;ited efforts.—B. C. 
HARDY FRUIT GARDEN. 
Fruiting Newly Planted Trees.— Many of the pyramidal and 
Lush-shaped fruit trees supplied, by nurserymen are well furnished with 
fruit buds, and usually attempt to perfect a crop of fruit during the 
season following planting. Those with few other trees especially are 
tempted to let them fruit to their fullest extent, hut, in most cases no 
greater mistake can be made. Not only do the majority of the trans¬ 
planted trees fail to perfect any appreciable quantity of fruit, but the 
attempt ends in their being seriously checked and stunted in growth. 
The wisest course to pursue with these young trees is to either remove 
the greater portion of the bloom at once, or else, after the fruit is set, 
to pinch all but sufficient to test the variety. Late-planted trees should 
have no fruit left on them, but two or three on those planted in the 
autumn will not injure them. Pigmies are rarely of any value in a 
garden, and the aim of every cultivator ought to be in the direction of 
quickly forming good-sized trees. Induce the new trees to grow strongly ; 
they can be brought into a fruiting condition easily enough. Newly 
planted fruit trees of any kind ought to receive a summer mulching of 
strawy manure, and if a long spell of hot and dry weather is experi¬ 
enced an occasional soaking of soft water at the roots, as well as fre¬ 
quent svringings, will greatly benefit them. Any trees that have been 
■stunted by premature cropping may yet be induced to grow out of it 
if lightly cropped and assisted by surface manurings, those against hot 
walls especially needing this, as well as abundance of water during the 
summer. 
Raspberries. —The cultivator who is fortunate in procuring strong 
canes for planting frequently imagines he may safely take a crop from 
these at once. They will bear the first season after planting, but the 
consequence is a failure the second year. The strongest as well as the 
weakest planting canes ought to l>e cut down to within a foot of the 
ground in order to cause them to push up strong suckers, which 
will develope into fine cancs for fruiting next year. When well estab¬ 
lished they may be topped at from 3 feet to 5 feet in height, or accord¬ 
ing to their vigour ami the method of training, adopted. The autumn 
fruiting varieties should be cut down to near the ground, the fruit being 
abundantly produced on the young canes formed the same season. If 
freely thinned out during the summer the majority of those canes re¬ 
served will fruit at every joint from near the ground upwards. No 
stakes are necessary for these. 
American Blackberries. —Theso have failed in many gardens 
owing to not being cut down as advised in the case of newly planted 
Raspberries. When the ripened canes are allowed to fruit the produce 
is usually disappointing, there being insufficient roots to support it, and 
as all the plant’s energies are expended on the fruit no canes for fruiting 
the following year are formed. 
Late Strawberries. —In order to prolong the supply of Straw¬ 
berries plantations are made on north borders. As far as our experience 
goes the late sorts are not sufficiently hardy for these very cold positions, 
the past winter again destroying the whole bed. This will prevent our 
keeping up an unbroken supply of fruit, but we hope to have occasional 
pickings from bedded out forced plants during September and to the 
end of the year. Vicomtessc Hericart de Thury, La Grosse Sucrec, 
Princess of Prussia, and even the old Keens' Seedling can all be made 
to perfect two crops of fruit in one year. According as the earliest and 
successional batches of forced plants are cleared of their fruit they 
should be transferred to frames, kept well supplied, and gradually 
hardened off. When they are sufficiently hardy to stand all weathers 
they may either be planted out in a bed of rich soil, or the pots may be 
plunged deeply in the borders and the roots encouraged to spread into 
the surrounding soil. We only keep those in pots we propose to lift in 
September or early in October, anil these being cleared of ]<*>se roots 
and soil can be stood on shelves in a cool house where the fruit, already 
set, will ripen in November and December. The earliest forced will 
ripen the second crop of fruit in the open ground. They must have 
abundance of water, especially till such time as they have become well 
established in the fresh soil, and for this and other reasons it is advisable 
to plant in the borders near the walks. The planting ought to be done 
firmly. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Peaches and Nectarines. — Earliest Forced nouse. —The fruit is 
swelling rapidly ; in fact, that of the very early and very valuable 
varieties, Alexander and Waterloo, are well advanced in ripening. 
Those must not be syringed, but the other varieties, such as Hale’s 
Early, A Bee, and Royal George, should be finally thinned, removing 
the smaller fruit where the crop is favourable, before any great advance 
is made with the last swelling, or it will be of little advantage to those 
remaining. The shoots must also be well tied in, so as to give the fruit 
all the sun and air possible for its colouring, and if the leaves shade it 
they must be drawn aside or removed. See that there is no trace of red 
spider, or if there be, apply an insecticide, and syringe forcibly, directing 
the water against the under side of the leaves. Syringing, however, 
must be discontinued when the fruit is beginning to ripen, and the 
supplies of water must be lessened from that time. When the fruit is 
ripening, some netting may be placed below the trees—suspended of 
course, and in pocket-like fashion, so as to prevent the fruit running 
and injuring each other. Fruit allowed to become- dead ripe and fall is 
not nearly so piquant and good in flavour as that carefully gathered 
when fairly ripe and allowed to rest in a fruit room for a time. 
Houses Started at the New Year. —The fruit in these is rather later 
than usual, but the crop is excellent, particularly of Royal George Teach 
and Elruge Nectarine. Hale’s Early is also first-rate, hut Grosse Mig- 
nonne, though there is a crop, is not nearly so good. The fruit has 
nearly finished stoning, but it does not do to hurry on the crop until 
that is known to be affected, which can be determined by trying a few 
fruits with a knife. Until then a regular temperature of 00° to 65° at 
night, and 70° to 75° by day is sufficient, but the stoning completed, 
and the ripening accelerated, the temperature may be kept at 70° to 75° 
artificially, falling 5° at night, and keeping through the day at 80° to 
85°, closing sufficiently early in the afternoon so as to rise to 90° or 
95°, and employing plenty of moisture, that over the trees being given 
sufficiently early to allow of their becoming dry before nightfall. In 
this with thorough supplies of water or liquid manure and a surface 
dressing ot short manure the fruit will swell to a great size. Place the 
fruits with the apex to the light, and the leaves n uat be drawn aside or 
shortened, so that the fruit will have the benefit of the sun for the 
colouring process. Give the final thinning directly the stoning is 
effected. Tie in the growths as they advance, keeping them thin. Ven¬ 
tilate early and leave a little on at night. It is very unwise to push 
trees in the dark, and keeping in a close moist atmosphere causes soft 
wood and long-jointed, this more especially in dull weather and at 
night. 
Houses Started Early in February. —The trees in these have pro¬ 
gressed very satisfactorily. The fruits are the size of Walnuts, and the 
fruit should be reduced to few more than is required for the crop. Tie 
in the shoots, encouragingno more than is necessary to furnish next year’s 
bearing wood and the extension of the trees. Shoots retained above the 
fruit to attract the sap to it should be pinched to a few joints ; the chief 
thing is to get stout, short-jointed, thoroughly solidified wood, and to 
allow it plenty of light and air. Ventilate early, increasing it with the 
solar heat, having it full at 70° to 75°, a night temperature of 55° to 60° 
being suitable, and ti0° to jfi5° by day by artificial means. Commence 
ventilating from 05°. 
Houses Started in March. —Trees that were started early in that 
month have set well, and the fruit being fairly swelling remove the 
surplus fruit, commencing with the badly placed— i.c., on the under side 
of the trellis ; it is well, however, in all cases to wait a short time until 
it is seen which fruit takes the lead in swelling. Disbudding must be 
continued until the growths are reduced to the number required for 
I next year’s fruiting— i.c., a shoot from the base of the current bearing 
