348 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ May 6, 1887 
might with ease be kept clean and healthy, 'I lie path of 
safety lies in preventing the appearance of insects, wait¬ 
ing for their multiplication in myriads before attacking 
them amounts to giving the victory to the enemy.— 
Experjentia Docet. 
SEASONABLE NOTES IN THE VINERY. 
It is by close attention to various details, however trifling they 
may appear, that success is attained, and the mere fact of having 
Vines from a noted grower, or the advantage of either a first class 
house or border, are by no means the only conditions necessary to 
insure good crops. If they were there would be many more good 
Grapes grown in this country than are usually to be seen. After 
all that may be said or thought to the contrary, Grapes are more 
easily grown than Melons, and the novice need not despair if his 
crops as yet have not been quite first class. 
The rods being in position and breaking strongly, the first pro¬ 
ceeding is to disbud or rub out all shoots not wanted for furnishing 
the house. One- lateral, as a rule, is ample for every spur, and on 
the young rods all the joints ought not always to be allowed to 
retain their lateral shoots. The spu. s ought to be at least 15 inches 
apart on each side, and if possible should alternate. Select for 
retention the best placed laterals, supposing these are showing a 
good bunch, otherwise they may be sacrificed to those with a more 
promising bunch. What I consider best placed laterals are those 
that start out right and left from the rod, those with either a down¬ 
ward or upward tendency being objectionable, for they are liable to 
be snapped off or pulled out, and are not suitable if saved for after 
preservation. If the spurs are wide apart and long it may be 
advisable to lay in a back growth wherever these form, and at the 
winter pruning the old spurs can be shortened to them, thereby 
preventing the rapid formation of “ unsightly ” spurs. 
The laterals being selected, the next proceeding is to pinch out 
the point at the first, second, or third joint beyond the selected 
bunch on each. On many fairly well-grown Vines each lateral 
produces two or more bunches. That nearest the base is usually 
the largest, but sometimes the second or even third bunch is pre¬ 
ferred as being the better shaped and probably quite large enough 
for ordinary purposes. Some seem to think they ought to have as 
many buddies as possible from the Vines, but they must understand 
if they badly overcrop one season the chances are they will have no 
opportunity of doing so during that following, for the simple reason 
very few good bunches will form. At which joint to stop the 
laterals should depend upon circumstances. It is unwise to preserve 
more foliage than can be properly exposed to the light, and if there 
is room for three leaves beyond the bunch leave them ; but if by 
ret lining that number the laterals overlap each other, be content to 
leave two or only one leaf. No Grapes, whether white or black, ought 
to be exposed to direct sunshine, but a certain amount of light must 
r.ach them, or they form weakly stems, and those with yellow or- 
white berries refuse to colour properly. The best course is to dis 
pose the rods at least 42 inches apart, plenty of light thus being 
admitted. I attach the greatest importance to the formation of as 
many primary leaves as possible, these doing better work than those 
formed on the sub-lateral or shoots pushed out from nearly every 
joint on a strong lateral. Many of these sub laterals we rub out 
entirely, only reserving enough to prevent the buds at each joint 
bursting, and those saved a’-e kept closely stopped at the first joint. 
A quantity of running sappy growths which used to be thought of 
great service, especially in encouraging root action, is really so much 
wasted strength, and all we want are stout healthy leaves ; timely 
stopping, or when it can be done with the finger and thumb, largely 
contributing to their formation. 
Tying down the laterals is frequently tiresome work, especially 
when attempted before the bunches are far advanced. The more 
vigorous the break the greater the liability of the laterals to be 
snapped. Many a cultivator has flattered himself he has success¬ 
fully brought down his laterals only to find next morning that 
several, with perhaps the best bunches attached, are flagging and 
beyond recovery. This is especially the case after a sunny day, the 
laterals apparently stiffening during the evening and night, and 
the fastenings not yielding the extra strain pulls the laterals out. 
Where, as at Longleat and other large vineries, the rods are trained 
from 18 inches to 2 feet from the glass, no tying down is necessary 
till the bunches are well set, at which stage they are so far 
strengthened as to require a severe twist to break them. Unfor¬ 
tunately in the majority of cases the wires are disposed from 
9 inches to 1 foot from the glass, and this necessitates early tying, 
or much of the foliage is spoilt by contact with the glass. Under 
these circumstances much more care must be expended over the 
Yines'an early start being absolutely necessary. In our earliest 
vineries the rods are unavoidably trained from 12 inches to 15 inches 
from the glass, but in order to simplify tying down they are sus¬ 
pended for a time at a distance of from 6 inches to 9 inches from 
the wires. Even when this plan is adopted most of the laterals re¬ 
quire to be lightly drawn away from the glass, this being done with 
the aid of thin strips of raffia fastened loosely beyond the bunches, 
and carefully strained at a good angle to the wires. In the case of 
Alicantes, Gros Colman, Lady Downe’s, and other vigorous late 
sorts the process of drawing the laterals from the glass must be 
very gradual. I look over ours daily, the majority frequently 
needing to have their ties slightly shortened. By the time the 
bunches are set the rods may safely be fastened closely to the 
wires and the laterals all brought down to one level. 
Young Vines require only slightly different treatment. If 
strong planting canes were placed out this spring, and stopped or 
disbudded to where they just reach the trellis, as many as possible 
of the shoots from the ground upwards should be encouraged to 
grow, and these being stopped at the fourth or fifth join*-, will 
serve to strengthen the stem and encourage root action, the 
leading shoot to be carefully trained up the roof and stopped 
when about G feet long. This w'ill be followed by laterals pushing 
strongly from every joint. These we stop at the first leaf in 
preference to allowing them to ramble. If rooting in a good 
border, however small, and kept supplied -with moisture, each cane 
will become strong and w r ell matured, requiring no shortening at 
the winter pruning. Older Vines that have not yet filled their 
allotted space may be allowed to advance another stage, but whether 
this be 3 feet or G feet must depend upon their vigour. We find 
that summer stopping is better than winter pruning, and never grow 
a great length of rod only to be cut away again. Winter-pruned 
rods do not break so regularly as those left to their full length.— 
W. Iggulden. 
NEW ROSES. 
TEAS. 
There is perhaps no more remarkable instance of the laws of 
supply and demand than that afforded by the hosts of new Roses 
sent out from the other side of the Channel. Formerly we used to 
get seven or eight Teas to about fifty or sixty Hybrid Perpetuals ; 
but seeing that we overe getting tired of having a number of 
Hybrid Perpetuals palmed on us which were not worth the 
trouble of propagating, and that the Tea Rose was coming into 
much favour, the whole thing is altered, and we have now a great 
increase in the Teas, so that in the present year there are in the 
lists twenty-five to forty-one Hybrid Perpetuals, and we have thus 
a great probability of being flooded with a lot of worthless Teas, as 
we have with worthless Hybrid Perpetuals. We must always, I 
think, look back upon the past as an indication of the future ; and 
a grower who has in former years supplied us with fine varieties is 
more likely to recommend his novelties from that fact than from 
the most high-flown descriptions for which he can ransack the 
French language. When Guillot praises a new Tea or Lacharme a 
new Perpetual we anxiously look forward in the hopes of getting 
something that will be worth growing. Of the Teas, Nabonnand 
introduces eight, one-third of the whole numl er, but as he lives on 
the borders of the Mediterranean, and is zealous in supplying the 
frequenters of the Riviera with cut blooms, we might presume that 
he would be more anxious for quantity than for quality ; and 
when we look at the list so carefully prepared by Mr. Girdlestone 
for the National Rose Society of new Roses sent out since 1884 we 
find this grower credited with no less than twenty-four varieties, 
independently of those of this year, and not one of them has made 
any mark, while on turning to the National Rose Society’s cata¬ 
logue of exhibition Roses there is only one of his retained in that 
select list—Francisca Kruger, and I fear therefore that Rose 
growers will regard with a good deal of quiet composure the 
amount of his novelties. Nevertheless, I must, owing to their 
number, give him the post of honour. 
NABONNAND. 
Lady Stanley. —Lilac, the petals being edged with purple, and 
having a yellow base, large, very full, globular, and imbricated ; 
very vigorous, with purple foliage and wood. 
Lady Zoe Brougham. —Extraordinarily brilliant, la ,vny yellow 
darker on the edge of the petals ; large, full, imbricated, and of 
good shape, with a long bud, very vigorous. A seedling from 
Isabelle Nabonnand. 
Madame Agathe Nabonnand. —Flesh colour, margined, a 
splendid large and full flower, with a substantial egg-shaped bud ; 
very vigorous, a continuous bloomer, and very sweet scented. 
Madame Marguerite Large. —An indescribable unique rose 
colour, very large, full, expanded, very vigorous, and free flower¬ 
ing. 
