May 6,1887. ] 
JOURNAL of horticulture and cottage gardener. 
363 
Muscats. —The earliest Muscats are just beginning to colour. They 
take longer to ripen than Hamburghs, and, unlike them, require a moist 
condition of the soil, being liable to shrivel unless kept well supplied at 
the roots, and there is a still further difference in their requiring a drier 
condition of the atmosphere, which is peculiar to all Grapes with the 
Muscat flavour. When the Grapes change colour we find athorough supply 
of water or liquid manure to the inside border, followed by a mulching 
of short material and rather dry with a surfacing of perfectly dry 
material, than which nothing answers better than rough-cut straw, will 
carry the crop to maturity, insuring good finish and preventing crack¬ 
ing in the Black Muscat—a superb Grape when well grown, and the 
finest of all black Grapes, Madresfield Court. When beginning to 
colour Muscat of Alexandria is liable to be scorched, for which we find a 
slight shading of herring or pilchard nets excellent as a safeguard, 
accompanied with a circulation of warm but not moist air. A little more 
time is required with the shade, but it is hardly possible to have well- 
ripened examples of Muscat of Alexandria before the middle of June. 
Muscats in flower set most freely with a night temperature of 70°, 75° by 
day artificially, and 80° to 85° or 90° with sun, always with a circulation 
of air. Liberate the pollen by gently drawing the hand over the 
bunches or shaking the Vines at mid-dav. 
Late Hamburgh*. —Disbudding, tying down, and regulating the 
growths must be attended to, but do not be in a hurry in stopping, 
allowing two at least and preferably four joints of growth beyond the 
show of fruit, and the laterals pinch at one joint below the fruit, but above 
it allow them to extend so as to ensure an even covering of the space 
with foliage that can have exposure to light, afterwards keep closely 
pinched. Ventilate early and freely so as to ensure short-jointed stout 
wood and thick leather}- foliage. Avoid a saturated condition of the 
borders, but keep them moist, and to encourage surface roots mulch 
about 2 inches thick with lumpy stuff, adding from time to time a few 
knobs of fresh droppings from the stables, which give off ammonia, and 
have virtue washed from them each time of watering. These surface 
dressings induce the Vines to root from the collar, and with active 
feeders excellent results are secured. 
Late Howes. —The Vines in these arc making rapid progress, and 
must be tied out and stopped as soon as they have made sufficient wood 
to cover the trellis with foliage. The bright weather has had a wonder¬ 
ful effect upon the foliage, which has the healthy blue-green colour so 
characteristic of active feeders luxuriating in nitrogenised aliment. Take 
every advantage of sun heat to increase the ventilation early in the day, 
but close early, which is a means of prolonging the health of the Vines, 
using fire heat no more than is absolutely necessary. Make a selection 
of the bunches that are to remain for the crop, big and loose bunches 
fieing the worst for finish, and the medium-sized and compact the best 
for ripening well and keeping. 
Newly Planted Vines .—When the planting is recovered from, as will be 
indicated by their growing freely, ventilate early, as the value of growth 
is dependant on its solidification, there being no remedy for a soft 
growth with a large pith; therefore, aim at a sturdy, short-jointed 
growth, encouraging the laterals in preference to mere elongation of the 
cane, letting all the wood remain that can be exposed to light; but 
supernumeraries intended for next year’s fruiting should have the 
laterals pinched at the first leaf, afterwards allowing them to make a 
few joints of growth and pinching the cane at 8 to 9 feet of growth, 
taking every possible care of the leaves on the cane, not allowing them 
to be interfered with in any way by the laterals. Keep the soil moist 
but not very wet, closing early with plenty of atmospheric moisture. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Crotons .—Crotons root freely at this season of the year when keatn 
from the plants that are in active growth. The large heads of plants 
that have become too tall for various forms of decoration will root as 
freely without losing their folige as cuttings of a much smaller size. In 
topping plants care should be taken not to take the cuttings with very 
firm wood attached. Large cuttings of this description are a long time 
rooting, and often lose their lower foliage, but if the wood is moderately 
firm only they can be rooted without losing a single leaf. Cuttings that 
it is necessary to grow into plants quickly should lie rooted singly in 
pots according to their size, or if labour is an object place them into the 
|>ots in which they will have to lie used for furnishing purposes. After 
insertion keep the cuttings moist, close, and shaded from the sun. They 
will soon form roots, and should afterwards lie grown exposed to full 
light and sunshine. To fully deve*lope the beautiful foliage of Crotons 
they must have abundance of heat and moisture, and be exposed to the 
sun. Shade, or partial shade, for these plants is a great mistake. 
Ijcaras .—To grow these plants well they must have a high tempera¬ 
ture with plenty of moisture whether required for exhibition or in 
small pots for furnishing purposes. It is to be regretted that they are 
not grown in larger numtiers in small pots for home and room decora¬ 
tion. They are as easily grown as Crotons. Those intended to flower 
should be pushed on, for the wood must assume a ripened condition if 
profusely flowered plants with large trusses are expected. Do not stop 
’he shoots, but allow them to extend until they show flower. Cuttings 
may lie rooted singly in 3-incli pots for succession, to be afterwards 
transferred into 5-inch pots. Those that flower first maybe pruned well 
back and pushed again into growth, and in due time they will flower 
profusely. A small shift may lie given them after they have started 
into growth, or they may be 'flowered in the same pots if two or three 
applications of artificial manure are applied to the surface of the soil. 
Cuttings at this period of the year will root freely enough under the 
same conditions as Crotons. 
Brarwnas .—Young plants that have been raised from roots and stems 
may now lie placed singly into 3-inch pots in a compost of peat and loam 
in equal proportions, with one-third leaf mould added, or the same 
quantity of old Mushroom bed refuse. If practicable, plunge them in 
bottom heat and supply water carefully until established. Dracaenas 
should be grown quickly in plenty of heat and moisture, but must be 
shaded from bright sunshine. Large heads may be rooted from plants 
that have grown tall without losing any of their foliage if taken where 
the wood is soft and kept close and shaded in the propagating frame. Too 
much moisture must be avoided, or the tips of the foliage will decay. 
For decoration D. Goldieana, D. gracilis, and D. Liudeni amongst stove 
Dracaenas are three of the best. In propagating the heads of these it is 
important that they be taken where the wood is soft. With these the 
stems must be kept to break if an increase of the stock is required ; but 
with D. Cooperi and D. terminalis, still two of the best, the stems may 
be dried and hardened, and then cut into lengths and placed in sandy 
soil in pans. Plants of D. rutilans should be grown moderately cool 
after they are placed in the pots in which they will finally be used for 
decoration. Moderately cool treatment insures plants of a sturdy robust 
nature that will bear well the hardships to which they will be subjected 
in rooms and halls. 
Pavonia Wighti .—With ordinary care this plant seeds freely, and a 
stock is raised more quickly by this means than by either cuttings or 
eyes. The latter course must be followed until sufficient stock has been 
raised to yield seed for maintaining a succession of plants. This is 
decidedly the best grown upright in 5-inch pots for decoration, and when 
the specimens become leggy the tops may be re-rooted and the stem 
thrown out. It is an invaluable plant, for it appears to flower freely 
throughout the whole year. A few leaves are made, then a batch of 
flowers, and so on. By sowing seed successionally flowering plants in 
abundance may be had. It appears to flower freely whether grown 
under shady conditions or fully exposed to the sun. Plants raised from 
seed sown in February are now well established in 3-inch pots. The 
seeds should be dried for a week or ten days after it is gathered from the 
plant, and then sown. 
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Hi 
IE BEE-KEEPER. 
fa 
NOTES ON BEES. 
We learn that the Directors of the proposed Inter¬ 
national Exhibition which is to be held in Glasgow in 1888 
have resolved to devote a part of the building to bees, 
their produce and appliances, with comestibles, &c., made 
from honey and wax. Major R. J. Bennett, Honorary 
Secretary to the Caledonian Society, has been appointed 
one of the Committee. As that gentleman has had much 
experience in bee husbandry his appointment is a judicious 
one, and we have no doubt the Exhibition will be a success, 
as all desire. 
THE WEATHER. 
April has been an exceptional month for low tempe¬ 
ratures. Until April 21st there were only two nights 
during the month when the temperature stood above 
freezing, on one at 35° and on the other at 40°. On all 
the others it ranged between 21° and 27° and a day tem¬ 
perature of 45°, excepting the 17th and 18th, when it 
rose from 218 to 64° on both days. It has been without 
doubt the most protracted season of cold during that 
month in our experience. Bees have had only three 
working days this year yet, and vegetation is backward. 
WINTERING BEES. 
Preserving bees during winter has engaged the atten¬ 
tion of naturalists and bee-keepers from time immemorial, 
although we have long since solved the problem so far as 
the winters that are past are -concerned and those that will 
follow of the same nature. Still the knowledge needed 
is how to preserve bees during winters of a more severe 
and protracted character than we have ever experienced 
in this country. As is well known, bee-keepers do not 
agree upon how bees should be wintered. I need not 
point out here the errors made by many upon this impor¬ 
tant question. Suffice it to say that many treat bees 
