M»j 12, 1887. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
371 
and the soil becomes solid and waterlogged, so in the same pro¬ 
portion will the Boses cease to thrive, and gradually dwindle 
away. 
At King’s Acre, Hereford, there is a beautiful Rose house. If 
I remember, it is 200 feet long and about 2b feet wide. Here are 
planted out trees of all the best varieties of Teas—they are old 
plants now, and some of the stems are as thick as Kidney Bean 
poles. It is a “ far cry ” to Hereford from here, but I think it 
would be well worth the trouble to make a pilgrimage there at the 
right time of year, just to see the grand old plants in bloom. 
The Americans grow their Tea Roses on benches. These are 
simply board or slated stages, on which are placed old turf and 
other good things to the depth of a few inches only. On these, 
stages the Roses arc planted out, and I have no doubt they 
flourish. 
A few words in reference to the makeshift methods. Where 
we have frames, I think the best plan would be to plant the Roses 
out in permanent beds, these beds being made of such a shape that 
,. winter and early spring the frames could be placed over the 
plants to protect them. Loose hay should be put lightly round the 
branches during the severe weather, but in spring, when the buds 
begin to move, this should be taken away. The lights should "be* 
removed all through the winter, whenever the weather is mild. In 
wet weather they should not be closed, but arranged to throw off 
the rain, while still admitting the fresh air. Light frosts during 
the winter do no harm, while on the other hand, keeping the lights 
closed encourages mould and mildew. Where Tea Roses are planted 
against walls under glass copings, canvas should be arranged in front 
to cover them and protect them from the frost. This canvas should 
not be left on except in severe weather. 
After a hard night’s frost there generally comes a brilliant sun¬ 
shine in the morning. This sunshine, following on the frost does, 
in my opinion, the greater part of the damage. To prevent this, 
mats or canvas should be laid on frames to keep the sun off, while 
the canvas on walls should not be removed until the sun has ceased 
to shine. In cold houses, too, some similar precaution must be 
taken. 
The pruning of Tea Roses may be referred to here. With 
them we must not expect to produce such regular bushy plants 
as we do with the H.P.’s, I only know of one Tea Rose that 
really grows naturally so, and that is Marie Yan Houtte, the foliage 
and habit of which are beautiful, as are the blooms. At the 
beginning of the season, or any time when the plants are dormant, 
we may remove as much wood as we think proper, bearing in mind 
two things ; one, that the Gloire de Dijon section, and the rampant 
growers generally, if cut in too hard, will probably behave as the 
vigorous growing H.P.’s do, and give us growth instead of blooms ; 
and the other, that, with the smaller growers, the harder we prune, 
the finer will the blooms be. When the plants are growing, and 
have leaves on them, pruning is a mistake. Here the best plan is 
to bend down the old shoots, when we shall soon get a lot of fresh 
breaks to take their places. 
List of Tea and Noisette Roses. 
Anna Ollivier. 
Ths Bride, s. 
Catherine Mermet, s. 
Comtesse Nadaillac. 
David Pradel. 
Devonieneis. 
Gloire de Dijon, 6 c. 
Grace Darling. 
Edith Gifford. 
Innocente Pirola. 
Jean Pernefc. 
Jeanne d’Arc. 
Mdm. A. Jacquier. 
Aldm. Charles, s. 
Mdm. C. Guinoisean. s 
Mdm. St. Joseph. 
Mdm. de Watteville. 
Mdm. Cusin. 
Mdm. Falcot. 
Mdm. Lambard, s. 
Mdm. Willermoz, 8. 
Marie Yan Houtte, 8. 
Niphetos, s. 
Perle des Jardins. 
Rubens, s. 
b'afrano. 
Souvenir Paul N> jror. 
Souvenir Gabriel Dievet. 
Souvenir d’Elise. 
Souvenir d’un Ami. 
Sunset. 
Noisettes. 
C61ine Forestier, s c. 
MarCchal Niel, 8 c. 
Rove d’Or, 8 c. 
W. A. Richardson, 8 c. 
Caroline Kuster, s. 
Note.—T hose marked S, are suitable for growing as standards ; those 
marked C, as climbers ; while any of them may bj grown in pots. 
—D. Gilmour, jcn. 
(To be continued.) 
NARCISSUS CALATHINUS. 
Tiie Daffodils arc all beautiful in some degree, but there is now 
such a large number of varieties, and the differences between them arc 
so small, that one requires to make a special study of them to appreciate 
the extremely fine distinctions. For my own part I prefer a few of the 
best marked types, or some of the acknowledged species, and these com¬ 
prise plants of much more simple grace than scores of the lauded novel¬ 
ties. One of these specific types is Narcissus calathinus, which this 
year I have had in charming condition, both in n greenhouse and out¬ 
side. A large pot filled with bulbs has afforded flowers for nearly two 
months, and they are only now just getting past their best. The plants 
were grown in the greenhouse until the flowers fully expanded, when 
they were removed to a room and placed near a window, where they re" 
mained fresh for a surprising time. Very light loam was used, and this 
seems to suit them best if grown out of doors, when a warm sheltered 
position must be chosen, and a thoroughly drained position. The flowers 
are of a delicate pale yellow tint., almost white, and most gracefully 
formed, the cup very even and beautifully proportioned, while the 
sharply reflexing petals impart a distinctive character to the drooping 
flowers. These are usually borne singly, but are sometimes produced in 
pairs. The leaves are narrow and elegantly arched. The bulbs small, 
ovoid, and dark brown. It is a scarce plant iu a natural state, being 
Fig. 65<— Naretesns calathinus. 
found in only one or two European districts-, and though known for a 
long period it had been lost to cultivation for some tinie, until a few 
years ago.—H. H. M. 
EARLY LEEKS. 
By August last year many of our early Leeks weighed 3 lbs. 
each. They were blanched a distance of about 8 inches, were as 
thick as one could span, and had a very massive appearance. They 
gained several first prizes, were very pleasing to look at, profitable 
for exhibition, and excellent in the kitchen. They remained sound 
and good until January, but such early Leeks cannot be recom¬ 
mended to be kept for spring use. Later sown and more hardily 
grown ones keep best, but many have a hankering after early and 
large Leeks, and by beginning in time and treating them well there 
is no difficulty in growing them to a large size. The seed must be 
sown in heat in February, and as they advance in growth they must 
be gradually withdrawn from this until they will bear exposure in 
the open by the first week in May. Some growers keep them a long 
time in heat and feed them then until they are upwards of 1 foot 
in length ; but we do not approvo of this treatment, as such plants 
are slow in starting into growth when planted in the open, and they 
rarely make handsome specimens. If grown in moderate heat near 
the glass, and always withdrawn to a cooler place before they become 
elongated, sturdy plants will be the result, and these may be placed 
