M»7 I«, 1887. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
413 
before described. The Teas may be treated differently. These 
may be kept going under glass until June, and will give a quantity 
of beautiful flowers. After this date, they too, should go outside, 
and be treated as advised for the H.P.’s. It is not a bad plan to 
have our benches constructed so that the pots may be covered with 
leaf mould. This does away with a lot of trouble in watering. 
Among the H.P.’s the full-flowered varieties are the best for 
forcing, while all the Teas may be used for the purpose. Where 
our Tea Roses are planted out under glass we must ripen the wood 
by throwing open all the ventilators and doors, and withholding 
water from the borders. 
GENERAL TREATMENT OF ROSES IN TOTS. 
Here the same directions as given for “ forcing ” may be 
followed to a great extent. In a cold house Roses can generally 
be got to bloom fully six weeks earlier than those in the open. 
Where we have no heat the atmosphere must be carefully watched. 
Here we have no means of drying the house if we make it too 
damp. If this happens, and is followed by constant wet weather, 
the beginner may have a chance of knowing what “ damping off ” 
means. 
When Roses are grown under glass to bloom at the natural 
season, air may be given at all times, but draughts from side lights 
should be avoided. The house may be closed early, say 2.30, to 
bottle up the sun heat, which will assist to bring out the flowers 
earlier. Bearing in mind the above remarks, the floors may be 
damped and the plants syringed in fine weather. The same 
insects, &c., wdl attack these Roses as those which are forced. 
Mildew is the most to be feared Once this gets a firm hold in a 
cold house, nothing can cure it, but if the softsoap treatment be 
commenced and persevered in, I think it will prevent its appear¬ 
ance. Dusting dry sulphur on the leaves is recommended, and also 
an application of sulphide of potassium. The latter is a solution, 
and may be syringed or sprayed on. The after treatment of these 
Roses should be similar to what is advised for the forced Roses, 
except that they will ripen naturally, just as our plants in the 
open do. 
Sunshine will not hurt Roses under glass, but when in bloom 
they will last longer if some kind of shading be adopted ; summer 
cloud may be applied to the glass, or thin whitewash put on with 
the syringe, or thin canvas or scrim may be used. 
In writing of potting, I omitted to say that clean pots should 
always be used. Old pots can be easily cleaned with a hard brush 
and a little water. Pots should not be used when they are wet. 
One word further about mildew. I am told, and I believe it, 
that I owe my immunity from this, to some extent, to my open 
and sunny position ; and further, that some growers of Roses, who 
stand very near the top of the tree, in consequence of the position 
of their gardens and houses, are, do all they can, unable to cope 
with it.—D. Gilmour, jun. 
(To be continued.) 
VINE JOTTINGS. 
Very seasonable advice has been given in two well written 
articles by Mr. W. Iggulden, and now while I am busy with my 
Yine work I would like to append a few notes. Fiist a line on 
stopping and tying. I suppose no two men agree to any prescribed 
rule for the the first operation. I vary my practice according to 
the growth of different varieties, but generally stop at one or two 
leaves above the bunch ; however, in strong breaks, to encourage 
the weaker laterals, I stop at one leaf, then to cover a space have 
several times allowed three leaves above the bunches. The eye is 
the best judge of what to do, especially when you know the 
peculiarities of each Yine. Lose no time in stopping, not waiting 
for the whole of the growths on a rod to elongate, but top them 
just as they are ready. I firmly believe this is a great help to 
uniform growth. Always use the finger and thumb, and no knife 
at any season of their growth, but scissors are used sometimes for 
convenience. When the Vines are not less than 15 inches from the 
glass do not be in a hurry to tie out the laterals, and make sure of 
the main rod being firm. It is also very important, to my mind, 
that all sub-laterals be stopped, giving them one leaf. Make a 
special effort to do all pinching and stopping before Vines come 
into flower. By carefully staying the laterals with loose ties until 
they are ready for flowering there is but little risk in getting 
shoots into position, but of course even then care is necessary. 
Buckland Sweetwater, a strong grower here, is the most brittle, so 
I leave the final tying down till the Vines have set their fruit. Re¬ 
verting again to stopping, I find that most of my Vines have been 
stopped twice before coming into bloom ; sub-laterals also above 
the bunches. Those below are never so strong, once pinching 
generally sufficing for these. 
Aim at having strong laterals with good foliage ; for this room 
is required. Great mistakes are made by leaving two or more 
laterals at a spur. It is true I have two in some cases, but they 
are for covering purposes. I like to see bold foliage standing clear 
of the Grapes. This, while giving plenty of shade, is far prefer¬ 
able to a thicket of crowded leaves. Having personally to attend 
to some 570 feet of vineries, representing nearly 200 Vines (all 
late), I know that it is easier to write this than to do it ; yet with 
thought and system, theory can be brought into practice. I con¬ 
sider the wild growth of Vines in their early stages is against good 
Grape growing, as I believe that very few new roots are made 
before the flowering time ; therefore I think the less growth the 
Vines have to support till then the better ; besides, by close and 
early pinching we increase the size of the leaves. In tying keep 
the points of the laterals from touching the glass ; then, provided 
these have a cross or back tie to hold them until ready to open the 
flowers, no harm will be done. I like to have them in position then 
for fear of damage in setting. 
This reminds me of the very great benefits accruing from 
setting Grapes. Having satisfied myself on this point I now 
assist all, even Black Hamburghs. I have proof from past ex 
periences that setting is not all that is required to produce perfect 
Grapes. This is, however, a step in the right direction. A very 
high strong north wind one day compelled us to fasten the 
ventilators down ; and there not being any sun the fire was in¬ 
creased. At noon my son found that ventilation was a necessity, for 
the flowers refused to expand, very few “ caps ” falling. I thought 
with an increase of temperature we should have had a correspond¬ 
ing number of flowers open Has anyone noted how the “ caps ” 
adhere on the Buckland Sweetwater ? the hand being needed to re¬ 
move them. 
So much for stopping, tying, and setting ; now a few lines on 
feeding. When is it best to feed a Vine ? Water can be given at 
all times to advantage, even in winter. Of this I have very 
pleasing evidences, the water and a little fire in their dormant 
state doing wonders. Do the Vines before new roots are made 
derive full or any benefit from early feeding ? I say not, and 
make the assertion not without much thought. AVith an ordinary 
top-dressing of the usual compost and a slight top-dressing of 
manure to save water, nothing further will be required till after 
Grapes are set. 
I have been puzzled the last few cold mornings to know the 
meaning of Lady Downe’s leaves being covered with dewdrops, 
while in the same house is growing Gros Maroc, Alicante, and 
Alnwick Seedling, and have come to the conclusion the low 60° 
temperature is the cause. The other varieties being dry under the 
same conditions shows very plainly which are the hardier. Another 
house with Lady Downe’s and Alicante, owing to a higher tempera¬ 
ture, is very different. I am not aware that Grapes grown in the 
latter house will keep better. I know they were the last—this 
time to be sold—but this was more because the bunches were small. 
Still, I am inclined to believe that Lady Downe’s after starting 
likes more fire than is generally given to it. also more ventilation.— 
Stephen Castle, West Lynn. 
POTATO DEGENERATION. 
Our friend “Thinker” accuses me of being illogical, and as he 
seems capable of almost proving black to be white, it is quite a 
waste of space for me to attempt to deny the “ soft impeachment.” At 
the same time I must still contend that the deterioration of the Potato is 
principally traceable to careless cultivation, being therefore not so much 
the fault of any inherent weakness as Mr. Murphy would suggest, but 
rather more due to causes over which we have some control. This is 
plainly borne out by “ Thinker’s ” arguments, and if anyone is illogical 
in the matter it is he. If by degeneration we are to understand that a 
positive decay has set in, then I still assert it has not yet taken plaee ; but 
if it is meant that it is only a temporary and remediable decay, and 
that is all I admit, illogical is not applicable to me, in this case at any 
rate. 
Scotch Champion was as good with us last jear as it has been, and 
was the favourite in the dining-room. It improves, in fact, as at one 
time the quality deteriorated when the tubers were kept much after 
December, but this year they were good in April, and no doubt would 
have remained good for some time longer. This, then, is not generally a 
weakling, nor never will be. AVe will drop the Ashleafs, as these seem “too 
much” for my deep-thinking opponent, and take up his “much-prized” 
Flukes. Fortunately I am old enough to be able to write upon these, 
though, in all probability, Mr. “ Thinker” fancies he has defeated 
me this time. This Fluke, about a quarter of a century ago, was 
of the greatest value for baking purposes, in fact no other sort then 
and since cultivated was at all equal to it in that respect, and it also 
kept and boiled splendidly. But what about its one great weakness— 
viz., extreme liability to disease ? I have seen cartloads of the grandest 
tubers of this variety all very badly diseased, the whole crop really 
succumbing. Does “ Thinker ” maintain that a stock thus naturally 
