516 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ Jana 28, 1887. 
as possible, and if several of the leaves are removed from them this will 
further check such over-luxuriant growth. If this remedy fails, they 
must be stopped and the side shoots also kept pinched back. In very 
many instances they are best pulled out of their sockets or cut clean 
oil. A timely removal is most advisable, this diverting the sap to the 
formation of medium-sized well-ripened growth all over the trees. 
Watering Strawberries. —There was never a better prospect of 
abundance of Strawberries, but where the plants are rooting in poor or 
untrenched ground the exceptionally hot anc dry weather experienced 
will have rendered them very dry at the roots. They are essentially 
moisture-loving plants, and unless assisted at fruiting time in very many 
instances the crops will be of short duration. Driblets of water or 
liquid manure will be quite thrown away on them. It is better to do part 
of the beds well than to merely moisten the surface of all the ground. 
They should have liberal supplies of pond water if possible two nights in 
succession. It is not advisable to use any kind of liquid manure at this 
advanced stage, as this cannot well be kept off the fruit. At the same 
time, if some kind of fertiliser can be washed in the crops will be greatly 
benefited thereby. A sprinkling of guano, bone manure, Clay’s fertiliser, 
or some other kind of soluble artificial manure applied prior to giving 
no check is given likely to induce the premature ripening of the wood 
and foliage. Keep the latter free from red spider by syringing- occa¬ 
sionally, and if necessary apply an insecticide, as it is of the greatest 
importance that the foliage be kept healthful and ripen naturally. 
Laterals must be kept stopped, but where there is space to allow of 
growth being made without overcrowding, encourage it, thus promoting 
root action, which prevents the wood and foliage maturing too early. 
All shoots that have borne fruit and are no longer required should 1 
be cut away to admit light and air freely to the growths, and if there 
is too much crowding of the shoots for next year’s bearing thin them 
well out, alike to make space for the free admission of light and air, and 
the action of water to cleanse the foliage from red spider. 
Fruit Ripening .—With a view to prolonging the season of fruit fire 
beat may be discontinued, and air admitted freely day and night, main¬ 
taining a good moisture at the roots to compensate for the lessened 
moisture in the atmosphere consequent upon the fruit ripening. Where, 
however, it is not desired to retard the fruit a temperature of 60° to 65° 
and 70° to 75° by day, and free ventilation will enable the crop to swelj 
freely and develope good-flavoured fruit, allowing a rise of 10° to 15° 
from sun heat, the atmosphere being kept dry, but the floors and other 
Fig. 86.—BALMORAL CASTLE. (See page 511.) 
the second watering and well washed in will have a marked effect, more 
especially in swelling the later fruit. A dressing may also be given 
in the event of soaking rains falling before the crops are cleared off. 
Birds and the Strwberries. —Blackbirds are at the fruit almost 
before ripening commences. The gun is the best remedy where large 
breadths are grown, but in small gardens, wholly or partially surrounded 
by good cover for birds, nothing but nets will serve the fruit. We prefer 
to erect a light framework of stakes and tar twine, and over these strain 
the netting at a sufficient height for anyone to walk or crawl under 
them. When the nets are merely thrown over the beds, the birds settle 
on the top and help themselves to the fruit through the meshes. 
Besides, new netting is very injurious to the foliage, and ought always 
to be kept clear of it. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Peaches and Nectarines. — Early Forced Tree*. — Those con¬ 
tinuously forced to ripen their fruits in May have a great strain upon 
their energies, as they have to make the growth during the early spring 
months and mature it in early summer. It is necessary to ventilate to 
the fullest extent after all the fruit is gathered, removing if possible the 
roof lights about midsummer or before the end of the month ; or if they 
are not moveable (which is a great mistake), in addition to full ventila¬ 
tion, the border should be frequently damped and duly watered so that 
available surfaces should be damped so as to afford a certain amount of 
air moisture for the benefit of the foliage. Moisture at the roots must 
be given both to the inside and outside border, and as a frequent appli¬ 
cation is undesirable during the ripening a mulching of rather short dry 
material will lessen the necessity for it. 
Fruit Sivelling .—In houses where the fruit is taking the second or 
last swelling after stoning employ the syringe vigorously to keep down 
red spider, as if it gets a hold before the fruit commences ripening it 
will seriously impair the quality of the fruit and affect disastrously the 
foliage, preventing it perfecting the buds for future bearing. Keep the. 
border well watered through a mulching of short manure, giving a 
sprinkling over the surface of guano or some other approved fertiliser, 
and wash it well in. Admit plenty of air, especially in the early part 
of the day, but to insure the fruit swelling to a lar*re size close early 
with abundance of atmospheric moisture, allowing the heat to rise to 
90° or more afterwards. Let the fruit be turned with its apex to the 
light, and draw the leaves aside or shorten them so as to admit light and 
air to the fruit, and thereby secure its even colouring and ripening. 
Keep the shoots well tied down. Pinch laterals on the strong shoots 
back to the lowest leaf, and thin out the growths where crowded, re¬ 
moving superfluous shoots. 
- Late House *.—Admit air freely. Syringe morning and afternoon. 
Keep the shoots tied down as they advance, reduce the fruit to the 
quantity required for the crop, or a few more may be left than will be- 
