Jane 30, 1887. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
537 
surplus shoots removed. The best of all ways of securing a heavy crop 
is to restrict each plant to one, two, or three leaders at most. If the 
shoots are pinched out a little way from the main stem it will ODly 
induce a number more to appear, but if each side shoot is broken oil 
close to the stem they will not readily start into growth again at the 
same place, and there will be no further trouble with them. All plants 
bearing fruit should have liberal supplies of liquid manure, and those 
which have been fruiting since early spring should have a quantity of 
the old surface soil removed, and redress with a rich fresh mixture. 
Cauliflowers. — Although surrounded by woods it is not very 
often that we are troubled with pigeons, and the destruction of six or 
eight rows of Cauliflower plants this spring is the only damage they 
have done us for ten years. Why they should have fixed on them it is 
difficult to say, as another piece not far off is not touched, and we are 
cutting the extra early types from this quarter now. The heads are 
about the size of one’s fist, and very sweet. Sutton’s King, Webb’s 
Mammoth, and Veitcli’s Autumn Giant will be the next to follow in 
heading; but all the first crops will be over by August, and more plants 
should now be placed in for a supply in September and October. Deal 
largely in Veitch’s Autumn Giant for this purpose. Where any plants 
have died fill the blanks, and if they are much injured by worms at the 
root water freely with strong lime water. 
Miscellaneous. —Put a layer of manure along each side of the 
rows of Runner Beans, draw the soil over this in earthing, and 
then stake them. Where Peas were sown on the level and not in 
trenches, treat them in the same way. Water those which are a little 
late with guano water. Clear off all vegetables the moment they cease 
to be useful. Sow Radish and Mustard and Cress frequently in small 
quantities. Handweed in the rows of all young plants, and Dutch hoe 
between the rows afterwards. All gardens should now be looking their 
best, and weeds must be kept down. If allowed to flower and seed they 
will cause endless labour in keeping them down. Continue cutting the 
flowers off Seakale and Rhubarb. Earth up late Potatoes. Some object 
to this operation, but it is the only way to prevent the surface tubers 
becoming green. Weed and clean walks, and there need be no difficulty 
in having the vegetable garden as attractive as any part of the pleasure 
grounds. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Melons. — Varieties are so numerous that to point out any one 
specially as possessing particular merit were superfluous, as almost every¬ 
thing constituting high flavour, no matter what the variety may be, is 
due to the treatment to which the plants are subjected. The greatest 
aid to flavour is a thoroughly solidified growth, with a rather dry and 
warm atmosphere, with adequate ventilation when ripening, but this 
will not impart high flavour to fruit that during its period of swelling 
has been neglected for the want of the timely removal of the super¬ 
fluous growth. Liberal supplies of water up to a certain stage are as 
essential to a thick melting flesh as is the heat and well-ventilated 
atmosphere to secure high flavour. After the fruit is set and is the size 
of an egg the laterals should be kept pinched to one leaf, and if this 
results in too much foliage, so that the leaves upon the primary shoots 
are crowded or shaded by them, thinning the laterals must be resorted 
to, removing a little at a time. The plants should be examined at least 
once, and in the case of very vigorous plants twice a week, for the re¬ 
moval of superfluous growths, the principal leaves beinr fully exposed 
to light and air. Until the fruit commences setting and for some time 
afterwards it should have every encouragement in swelling by main¬ 
taining a good moisture at the roots and sprinklings at closing time, 
dose the house or frame at 80°, and if the temperature rise to 85° or 1)0° 
all the better, but after the fruit commences netting less atmospheric 
moisture should be given, a light sprinkling at closing time sufficing 
with thorough moisture at the roots until the fruit shows indications of 
ripening, when the sprinkling should be discontinued and air freely ad¬ 
mitted. If the old shoots are cut away the young ones will soon show 
fruit and set freely. If the plants do not show indications of a free 
growth, are infested with red spider, or decayed at the collar, it is better 
to root them out and make a fresh start. Remove the old soil, and 
where bottom heat is obtained from fermenting material only, a little 
fresh hotjdung worked in will sufficiently revive the bottom heat for 
this time of year. Observe thorough cleanliness in houses, as the after 
success depends upon the plants having a good start. Plant on hillocks 
or ridges rammed well down, and maintain a moist genial atmosphere. 
Pot any plants requiring it and keep them sturdy. Fertilise the blos¬ 
soms daily until the requisite number of fruit are set, then remove all 
the flowers and earth up the plants. Look well after canker at the 
collar, as it spreads rapidly ; it is overcome by rubbing the infested 
parts with quicklime. Shade only to prevent flagging. Take care to 
cut the fruits with a considerable portion of stem when removing them 
before quite ripe, in order to prolong the season of suppty. 
If there is any difficulty in setting the flowers in frames apply good 
linings and admit air freely, leaving a little on at night so as to prevent 
the deposition of moisture on the blossom, it being important that the 
pollen be dry and the stigmas not destroyed by moisture. Do not over¬ 
crowd the foliage, and though it is not desirable to use the knife much 
during the setting period, keep the growths regulated so as to admit 
light and air. Watering should be guarded against during the setting, 
yet the foliage must not be allowed to flag. 
Vines. — Early Forced Vines.— Those from which the fruit has been 
cut should be kept free from insects, for if the foliage fall a prey to red 
spider it is not unlikely a second growth will be made when the Vines 
ought to go to rest, therefore syringe them every evening so as to preserve 
the old foliage as long as possible. Encourage a moderate extension of 
the laterals, especially in the case of weakly Vines and those long sub¬ 
jected to forcing, being careful to encourage them from the extremities 
only ; in any case they must not be allowed to interfere with the prin¬ 
cipal leaves. Ventilation will need to be given to the fullest extent day 
and night, and in the case of moveable roof lights they may be removed. 
Where, however, it is intended to lift the Vines and lay the roots in 
fresh compost near the surface the roof lights must not be removed, or 
they must be held in readiness for placing over the Vines in case of 
heavy rains, as a wet soil is not favourable to the Vines for lifting. 
Late House .—Grapes to hang over the winter months require more 
thinning than those not intended to keep for any lengthened period. 
The bunches should be examined for the last time, removing any stone¬ 
less or superfluous berries. The high and dry borders of modern culture 
do not receive, as a rule, anything like the quantity of water they 
require, especially inside borders. They should be well mulched and 
liberally watered, sprinkling with some approved artificial manure, 
watering it well in. The mulching should be kept moist, so as to attract 
and keep the roots near the surface. With this, and a due regard to air 
moisture, red spider will not appear, or if it do, heating the pipes to 
160°, and brushing them over thinly with sulphur and skim milk, so as 
to make the sulphur adhere to the pipes, will destroy it. Allow a mode¬ 
rate extension of the laterals, but keep free of gross ones, and do not 
allow a large quantity of growth to be made, which must afterwards be 
removed in armfuls, as that gives a check to the roots, not infrequently 
resulting in shanking. Admit air, rather increase it early, it being 
advisable to leave a little on at night through a chink at the top of the 
house. Heat through the day 80° to 85°, increasing to 90° or 95°, 
with plenty of atmospheric moisture by early closing in the afternoon. 
Damping should be practised freely in dry hot weather, and the venti¬ 
lation moderated, as nothing is so injurious and inducive of red spider 
as excessive evaporation. Fire heat will only be necessary to maintain 
a night temperature of (50° to 65°, and 70° to 75° by day. 
Grapes Colouring .—Those changing colour will require plenty of air, 
with abundance of heat, as nothing contributes so much to high flavour 
and finish as a circulation of rather dry warm air, but Vines struggling 
with a heavy load of fruit should not be subjected to so high a tempe¬ 
rature as those luxuriant and carrying no more fruit than what may be 
considered a fair crop, but rest must be afforded them at night by allow¬ 
ing the temperature to fall to 60°. Afford a thorough supply of water 
to the border, mulching with a couple of inches or so of short manure, 
and over that a little drier and longer material, but this last may be 
deferred until after the fi nal watering, if a second be deemed necessary, 
as is advisable with Muscats and all Grapes that are rather long in 
finishing. In the case of Grapes inclined to crack, increase the thickness 
of the dry material, and take care to avoid the deposition of moisture on 
the berries. 
Young Vines .—Syringe copiously in the early afternoon, and close, 
mulch, and keep moist to attract and keep the roots active near the 
surface, affording water or liquid manure at a temperature of 90° to 
100°. Allow all the laterai extension practicable, only see that it do no 
interfere with the leaves of the buds to which the Vines are to be 
pruned to in winter. 
PLANT HOUSE?. 
Eulalia japonica variegata .—Although classed as a greenhouse plant 
there is no comparison between its growth in that structure and when 
grown in the stove. It grows more rapidly in the latter, and its foliage 
is much more beautiful. For groups or any arrangement of an orna¬ 
mental character it has few if any equals. Its slender grass-like foliage 
rising above other plants of a dwarf compact habit impart to the whole 
a light effective appearance. For these purposes grow this plant in 
quantity ; it is readily propagated by division, and if grown in the stove 
it is surprising how rapidly a large stock of plants can be obtained by 
dividing every plant as they become ready for the purpose, or by grow¬ 
ing one on to a good size for the purpose of supplying stock as others 
are injured or destroyed. They will, however, do good service for a long 
time, and then be suitable for stock purposes. When grown in the stove 
harden the plants by removal to the greenhouse for a week or two 
previous to using them. This plant is not very particular about compost,' 
for it appears to do well in any fertile soil. It requires liberal supplies 
of water while growing. 
Cyapopliyllum magnijicum .—This and Sphaerogyne latifolia that had 
their leads destroyed in spring for the purpose of stock will now have 
some good shoots for cuttings upon them. Cut these off with a sharp 
knife close to where they issue from the old stem. Insert them in light 
s indy soil well watered, and keep them perfectly close under a bell- 
glass, and well shaded from the sun until they are rooted. After they 
are rooted the greatest difficulty in managing these plants is to harden 
them to stand exposure in the house in which they have been rooted. 
This must be done carefully and gradually, or else they will flag and 
probably go off altogether. Only a little air should be admitted at first, 
and gradually increase at intervals of two or three days. 
Crotons .—These should be rooted in quantity where a large stock of 
plants are required in good condition for decoration through the winter 
in 5 and 6-inch pots. They root freely at this period of the year in the 
propagatiug frame. Good heads may be inserted in the pots in which 
they are to be grown. The smaller plants must be potted directly they 
are well rooted, and the whole gradually exposed to full light and sun¬ 
shine if the high colouring of their foliage is to be fully developed. 
This must not be delayed too long, for Crotons will not colour properly 
