Jane SO, 1887. ] 
539 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
at the right times; and, as many littles make a “ muckle,” 
lienee the great weight these bees attain over others. 
The secret in managing is large hives, plenty of honey 
and pollen in them daring September, keeping them dry 
and comfortable; but never annoy them from the time 
they are put up for winter until supers require to be 
placed on, and give these just when the hive is full of 
bees and honey plentiful, and you will have the satisfaction 
to see the bees take to them at once. Whenever well 
begun in the first super add a second upon the top of the 
first one. If extracting is to be practised have some 
empty well-cleaned combs to replace the full ones taken 
away. Never put broken and dripping combs to a hive 
wrought for extracting purposes. It delays them much 
longer to repair old combs than build new ones from 
foundation ; and never extract honey from unsealed 
combs. 
While the honey season is in do not let the bees loiter 
nor put back swarms. If they should swarm against 
your will, join two swarms if a good hive and fine honey 
is wanted. Swarms always work more eagerly than old 
stocks; half-filled supers on the latter should be trans¬ 
posed to the swarm a few hours after hiving. Young 
queens should now receive full attention for next year’s 
service.—A Lanarkshire Bee-keeper. 
TRADE CATALOGUES RECEIVED. 
Veldhuyzen Van Zinten & Sons, Lisse, near Haarlem, Holland.— 
Catalogue of Dutch Flower Roots. 
c 0 ° All correspondence should be directed either to “The 
Editor ” or to “ The Publisher.” Letters addressed to Dr. 
Hogg or members of the staff often remain unopened un¬ 
avoidably. We request that no one will write privately 
to any of our correspondents, as doing so subjects them to 
unjustifiable trouble and expense. 
Correspondents should not mix up on the same sheet questions 
relating to Gardening and those on Bee subjects, and should 
never send more than two or three questions at once. All 
articles intended for insertion should be written on one side of 
the paper only. We cannot reply to questions through the 
post, and we do not undertake to return rejected communica¬ 
tions. 
LATE INQUIRIES.—It is necessary to again remind correspondents that 
letters arriving on WEDNESDAY MORNING cannot be answered 
in the “ next issue,” which is then far advanced for press. 
Seedling Lilies (W. T.). —It is probable that a cross has been effected as 
you state, but seeilings are very variable, and we have recently seen some 
seedlings that combine the characters of the two species in a cur ous 
manner. By all means preserve those you have, their character may 
■develope more fully later on. 
Plantsfor Covering Trellis (H. G. B.). —There is really no climber of an 
evergreen character that would answer your purpose ; but evergreens (not 
cl mbers) that are likely to succeed and form beautiful objects are Berberis 
stenophylla, Cemothus azureus var. Gloire de Versailles which requires 
protection in severe weather; Crataegus Pyracautha Laelandi, Esca’lonia 
macrantha, Garrya elliptica, Ligustrum lucidum tricolor, and Magnolia 
grandiflora var. Exmouth. Perhaps, however, green and variegated Ivies 
would answer as weU as anything. 
Cattleyas (A. B. C.). —Keep all the plants to which you refer in a free- 
growing state till the pseudo-bulbs have completed their growth, then 
gradually reduce the supply of water and maintain a drier atmosphere. 
When the plants are flowering they are usually kept in a rather drier and 
cooler house for preventing the petals spotting and prolonging the beauty 
of the flowers ; that rests them sufficiently at this season of the year. 
Eucourage the young growths on C. Sauderiana, and this will aid these 
more advanced to become the finer. 
Fertilising Roses (G. W.). —All the organs of fructification are in the same 
bloom, at the base of the petals. Clipping off the latter before they have 
developed encourages the growth of the stamens and pistils, and renders 
them more amenable to fertilisation, naturally or artificially. The sexual 
organs appear, however, to become suppressed in some flowers, and undergo 
a change in others, unfitting them for seed-producing; and in all proba¬ 
bility you will have to make many experiments before you succeed in your 
object. Old Bose trees are as a rule better than young plants as seed- 
producers, and some varieties much more productive of seed than others. 
We know of no work on the subject. 
Beetles Infesting Rose3 (S. H. B. j.—These belong to the species some¬ 
times called the “ flower-loving beetle,” or the June bug. The scientific 
name is Phyllopertlia horticoia. In Rose gardens at times they appear 
very numerously, nibbling the petals and showing a special liking for 
white Boses. They are most abundant on flowers about midsummer, hut 
this is not their first appearance. As is the case amongst several of the 
tribes of beetles the brood emerges by degrees, and a portion comes out in 
May and then attacks the newly formed fruit on many trees, and also on 
some low-growing species, such as the Strawberry. The larva or grubs of 
these beetles feed on the roots of plants in the later summer and autumn, 
occasionally doing perceptible damage to grasses and cereals. 
Heating Houses (A. B.). —To heat the small house you have a boiler 
which, if you add an inch to its height and width, and 6 inches to the 
length, would probably heat another house double the size, and there would 
be a corresponding saving in fuel. For two houses six times the length 
and enclosed area you would not require six times the quantity of fuel; but 
allowing for waste, a boiler of six times the power would consume about 
three times the fuel of the present one. A wide hou^e is much more 
econonrcal than a narrow one in the utilisation of heat or fuel, but conve¬ 
nience is a factor that must be reckoned with on the score of adaptability 
for the purpose required and in respect of its bear ng on labour. Had you 
given particulars of your present house we should have been able to assist 
you more agreeably to ourselves and more satisfactorily to you. 
Mildew on Vines (Torbay).—A dry border with a close damp atmo¬ 
sphere and low night temperature is favourable to mildew, and Vines in 
some positions where the air is damp and still, as in valleys, are more 
liable to be attacked than where the atmosphere is drier and the circulation 
of air free. Leaving the ventilators of vineries closed too long in the 
morning is often followed by mildew. All yon can do is to maintain a 
very buoyant atmosphere, dry rather than moist, and to take care the roots 
are well supplied with water. We have never known mildew on Vines 
refuse to yield to sulphur when effectively applied, but it cannot be extir¬ 
pated by any means without the Grapes having sustained some injury, net 
by the Bulphur but the parasite. We have not tried Harris's sulphide of 
potassium, that has been advertised, on Vines; hut it is said to destroy the 
mildew that attacks them. We fear you have erred iu someway in the 
important work of ventilating the house. 
Peach Trees Unsatisfactory (E. 7J.V—The trees having an enormous 
crop last year is sufficient to account for their being almost fruitless this 
season. An overcrop is a great strain on the trees, and prevents the storing 
up of sufficient nutriment in the wood f r the formation of the buds in 
the first instance, and their ultimate development into the organs of 
f'Uet'fication in a perfect manner, this resulting in a bad set and uneven 
swelling of the fru t. We have known trees take two years to recuperate 
their wasted energies consequent on overcropping. The thing is to secure 
stout, short jointed, we'l fed wood, deposing the shoots thinly, so as to 
insure thorough solidification, keeping the toliage clean and healthy as 
long as possible. The trees may be safely lifted in autumn, or as soon as 
the leaves give indications of falling, preserving all the fibry roots, and 
laying them in fresh loam nearer the surface. It is an infallible remedy 
for trees that fail to set and stone the fruit satisfactorily, requir.ng only 
careful judgment to insure success. 
Grapes Scalded (Idem). —The Grapes sent are scalded. Slight shade 
from bright sun will prevent it; but a better remedy is to ventilate rather 
freely, especially in the early part of the day, and to maintain a rather 
warm condition of the atmosphere, or 65° to 70° at night and 70° to 75° by 
day, which with the ventilation keeps the air in motion, preventing the 
deposition of moisture on the berries and the consequent excess of evapo¬ 
ration after the ventilators are opened. 
Transplanting Hollies (H. G. B.). —As the Hollies are somewhat large, 
and have been grown rather thickly in the hedgerow, their removal is 
rendered more difficult, therefore great care and judgment will need to be 
exercised in the work. Attempting their removal now, with the ground 
as dry as dust and a broiling sun overhead, would certainly result in 
failure, and ought not to be attempted. It would have been quite different 
if the Hollies had been grown singly, and there were a possibility of 
securing a ball of soil with the roots. As there is no hope of this, we advise 
your deferring operations until the soil gets thoroughly moist in late 
summer, or from the middle of September to early October, or if the 
weather be mild up to early November; then take up carefully, preserving 
all the roots practicable, and some soil if possible, and replant where 
required, giving a good watering unless the soil is in a thoroughly moist 
state, when water need not be given. Make secure against winds, cutting 
back the heads in spring—the first mild weather in April, and they will 
in ail probability grow well. The next best time to move Hollies of the 
kind you describe is during the first mild weather and showery that 
preva’L after the vernal equinox, or just before they start into growth, 
which is pre.'eded by the irees pushing fresh rootlets, a similar process 
taking place in late summer or early autumn. In a late season w 11 rooted 
Hollies may he safey moved up to June. 
Vines not Growing (C. G.). —Considering you have been a reader of 
the Journal for so many years it is a little surprising that you have acted 
quite contrary to the advice that has been repeatedly given on planting 
Vines in the spring just after starting into growth, cutting them back the 
autumn previous to the desired length. We do not assert that Vines will 
not grow when planted in the autumn, hut ve do not hesitate saying, that 
whin autumn planting has been advised once, planting in sprirg has 
been advised a hundred times; still you planted in autumn and :ailed, 
then planted in the autumn again with similar results. We fi) d no 
