12 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
July 6,1894, 
s 
L.elio-Cattleya Canhamiana alra. 
The illustration (fig. 2) represents a bloom of Laelio-Cattleya 
Canhamiana alba, a beautiful bigeneric hybrid exhibited by Messrs. 
J. Veitch & Sons, Royal Exotic Nursery, Chelsea, at the Drill Hall, 
Westminster, on the 26th ult. This handsome Orchid is the result 
of a cross between Lselia purpurata and Cattleya Mossise, and 
merited the first-class certificate awarded for it by the Royal 
Horticultural Society. As will be seen by referring to the 
engraving the flower is large, and whilst the sepals and petals are 
white the lip is rich crimson purple with yellow lines at the base 
of the inner portion. 
SCHOMBURGKIAS. 
The few species which constitute this genus can hardly be 
classed as superior Orchids, but there are at least three kinds which 
should be included in representative collections. In habit and 
appearance they closely resemble Cattleyas, but the culture should 
be similar to that of the evergreen Dendrobiums. The winter 
temperature ought not, however, to fall much below 50°. 
Schomburgkias should be grown in well drained pots with the 
usual mixture of peat and sphagnum. S. tibicinis produces an 
upright raceme from 3 to 6 feet in height bearing many flowers. 
These are each 3 inches across, the sepals and petals narrow, wavy, 
reddish purple. The labellum is three lobed, the centre white, the 
side lobes rosy red streaked with purple. The pseudo-bulbs of 
this species are hollow, and in their natural habitat are said to be 
often occupied by swarms of ferocious ants. 
S. Lyonsi is smaller than the last named. The flowers are 
produced on shorter racemes, and are 2 inches across, white, with 
brown and purple markings. The pseudo-bulbs are about 
10 inches high, thickened in the middle, and each bears a couple 
of leaves on the top. This species is a native of Jamaica. 
S. Thomsoni is rarer than either of the species named. The 
flowers are pale yellow, with a dark purple blotch on the lip. 
There are certain other kinds in cultivation, such as S. marginata, 
S. crispa, and S. rosea ; but the three mentioned above are probably 
the best and most generally grown. 
Oncidium Lanceanum. 
We have few more beautiful Oncidiums than this in cultivation 
When in good condition the fine spotted foliage alone is very orna¬ 
mental, but the flowers have a charm about them that is difficult to 
describe. The grotesque shape, the pleasing contrast of the rich 
chocolate and yellow petals with the violet purple lip, and the 
fragrance all combine to make this a truly beautiful flower. 
O. Lanceanum, unfortunately, is not easy of cultivation, and it is 
sad to see so many fine plants imported yearly, only to drag out a 
miserable existence for a few seasons and then be consigned to the 
rubbish heap. 
A frequent cause of failure is leaving it too long in the same 
compost, especially if this is largely composed of peat. Although 
this Oncidium dislikes frequent disturbance at the root, it must 
have new material by surfacing or otherwise at least every second 
year. The growth is always finer from peat fibre than from 
sphagnum, but I invariably use more of the latter than the 
former when potting this Orchid. This seems rather paradoxical, 
but the future of the plant has to be considered, and it is better to 
be content with medium results for an indefinite period than to 
have more vigorous growth for a few seasons and to run the risk 
of ultimate collapse. Peat, even of the best description, when 
decaying, leaves a sour humus behind very injurious to the roots of 
epiphytal Orchids. This cannot be removed without taking the 
plants out of the pots. Decaying sphagnum, on the other hand, if 
not in too great bulk, is a useful fertiliser, and the young growing 
points form practically a new rooting medium yearly. 
This Orchid will grow freely in the East Indian house, but 
enjoys a high and somewhat dry temperature at midday. Though 
requiring to be screened from bright sunshine a dense shade is not 
advisable, especially at the end of the summer. The foliage 
must be well consolidated to enable the plants to withstand a few 
weeks’ dry rest in the house where grown. This species, however, 
will not always be compelled to rest, and when seen to be starting 
into growth must be encouraged, as it is important to maintain as 
far as possible the initial vigour of the species. 0. Lanceanum 
when newly imported frequently bears leaves from 18 inches to 
2 feet in length, but I have never seen these matched under 
cultivation. 
Cultural Notes on Orchids. 
So far the present season has not been by any means a good 
one for warm house Orchids. Owing to the absence of sun and 
the low temperature last month more fire heat than usnal has been 
necessary, and however carefully this is applied, the brisk buoyant 
atmosphere so congenial to growing Orchids cannot easily be 
maintained. A gentle heat should be kept in the pipes night and 
day. This will allow of early ventilation on dull mornings, and 
when bright it will not cause any appreciable rise in the tempe¬ 
rature before the blinds are let down. This should always be done 
early on bright mornings following a spell of dull weather, as a 
sudden change is very detrimental to the foliage. 
Aphides have also been more than usually troublesome, and all 
plants advancing for flower must be closely watched. While the 
spikes of Oncidium incurvum and similar kinds are in the first or 
simple stage, it is an easy matter to keep them clean, passing a 
damp sponge up the spike being all that is required. If allowed to 
remain until the spikes branch, the insects creep under the flower 
buds, where it is almost impossible to reach them, and the filth 
they produce ruins the appearance of the flowers as soon as they 
open. The growing shoots of Dendrobiums and other Orchids 
are also soon crippled by these insects if not rigorously kept in 
check. 
Anguloas, immediately the flowers are faded, should be repotted 
if necessary, the present being probably a better time for this 
operation than the early spring. These Orchids will thrive best 
in a more substantial compost than is usually accorded them, a 
good proportion of fibry loam and a little dried cow manure being 
of great assistance to the plants. Thorough drainage is also 
essential, copious supplies of water being required during the 
growing season. Many Cattleyas and Laslias when growing have 
a good deal of glutinous matter in the outer sheaths, which will 
occasionally prevent the free development of the young pseudo¬ 
bulbs. This can usually be removed by sponging with warm 
soapy water. Sometimes, however, it may be found necessary to 
slightly slit the sheath with a sharp knife, care being taken that 
the growing bulb is not injured by the operation. 
Calanthes will require more room as the leaves develop. Each 
plant should stand clear of its neighbour, and the foliage must be 
kept free from scab. If the pots are filled with roots an occasional 
dose of weak liquid manure may now be given. They will also 
need a gradual exposure to more sunlight, but as the foliage is 
still tender shading cannot be entirely dispensed with. Finish 
all arrears of potting, such as late plants of Dendrobiums, Cattleyas 
Mossise, Lawrenceana, and others, as the roots are now active and 
should be taking to the new compost. 
Where there are houses set apart for flowering Orchids, these 
are usually associated with foliage plants, such as Ferns, Crotons, 
and small Palms, and if tastefully arranged very charming effects 
are thereby produced. After the flowers are past, the Orchids must, 
however, be carefully examined, and if necessary cleaned, before 
being returned to the growing quarters, the comparatively dry 
atmosphere of the flowering house being very favourable to insect 
propagation. The strain of flowering, too, combined with the lack 
of atmospheric moisture has a very debilitating effect on the plants, 
and a kind of nursing regime is advisable until they regain their 
lost vigour. Frequent light syringings with tepid water and a 
slightly higher temperature than usual are very beneficial while the 
plants are in this convalescent stage. 
So much atmospheric moisture is now required by the cool 
section of Orchids in houses or frames that it i^ impossible to keep 
the green slimy moss from growing on the pots. Frequent scrubbings 
are, however, imperative, as this greatly improves the appearance, 
and is beneficial to the plants. The ashes, gravel, or whatever is 
placed on the stages should also be raked over, and a little fresh soot 
and lime sprinkled about before replacing the plants. Abundance 
of air is also required, and if the foliage is actually blown about 
so much the better. Nothing tends so much to give the leaves 
that russety appearance that experienced growers delight io as this 
superabundance of fresh air. Continue to keep the plants free of 
insects, see that the growths have room to swell, and there need 
be no fear of disappointment when flowering time again ctmis 
round.—H. R. R. 
