July 6,189 i. 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
21 
rich loam and manure pressed firmly down. This method requires 
regular care and attention at first, especially if continued dry weather 
prevails, water being needed every day. Eaeh plantlet should be held in 
position on the soil by a stone resting on the runner, or it may be secured 
by a hooked peg. It is well to partly plunge the pots in the ground. 
They are then not so easily knoeked over, and the soil in them has the 
slight advantage of being retained more uniformly moist. 
On Turves. —The next method, very similar and needing equal 
care, is that of affixing runners to 3 or 4 inch squares of turf, grass side 
downwards, which, kept constantly moist, and the plantlets firmly 
secured thereon, a mass of rootlets soon permeates the entire turves. 
Before the roots pass into the soil below to any extent, planting should 
take place, or if this cannot be done as soon as necessary, place the 
turves on some rough fibrous material to which the roots can adhere, 
thus preventing serious severance of the growing points when moving 
for planting. 
On Ridges of Soil. —Strong healthy plants may be obtained for 
general purposes by clearing a space between the rows and laying 
down a line 2 inches thick and 6 inches wide or more of rich, turfy soil 
mixed with manure. On this material secure with pegs or stones a 
select number of the best and strongest runners. 
In the Ordinary Soil. —This system involves little or no trouble 
beyond thinning away a considerable number of the runners, leaving 
only a reasonable amount to root naturally into the soil which might 
with advantage be loosened with a fork and broken up for admitting 
warmth and moisture. For general autumn planting abundance of 
vigorous plants are thus easily obtained. They will be of a specially 
sturdy description if light and air are freely admitted among them, and 
some may be forward enough for early planting. Water copiously as 
required, but not nearly so much will be needed as when rooting in pots 
or turves. 
General Hints. —When rooted the plants ought not to continue 
drawing support from the parent clumps, but cut the runners early. In 
every method of rooting nip off the points of the runners when securing 
them, and in most cases select the first and strongest plantlet. Propa¬ 
gate always from known fruiting and healthy plants. Beware of 
apparently good but too luxuriant and fiowerless plants, as those from 
worn out exhausted beds. Clear away all superfluous runners as soon 
as they show. 
Ualllngr and Tying: Wall Trees. —Carefully secure the leading 
shoots in position as growth proceeds. The proper disposition of shoots 
in other parts of the trees must also be attended to before they become 
too firm for laying in easily. It is not necessary that they be closely 
fastened in to their full length as yet. It will suffice if loosely trained 
in the right direction, securing them finally when the wood attains to a 
riper condition. Assigning the bulk of the shoots now their required 
space and position gives a better idea of what is required for finally 
furnishing. The superfluous wood may then be entirely cut out, or 
shortened at the fourth good leaf to form spurs. Morello Cherries, 
Peaches, and Nectarines usually have a greater proportion of young 
wood retained than spurs encouraged to form, but sweet Cherries, 
Apricots, and Plums on walls mostly have a combination of the two 
systems. The annual laying in, however, of new wood of medium 
strength offers a means of maintaining the trees healthy and fruitful 
by dispensing with old worn-out branches. 
Sestroylng Insects. —Black and green fly present on shoots in¬ 
tended for preservation ought at once to be destroyed. Dipping the 
shoots into an insecticide is a ready method of extirpating them, pro¬ 
viding the remedy is of sufficient strength, 3 lbs. of softsoap dissolved 
in twenty-five gallons of water, adding also the liquid in which 1 lb, of 
quassia chips has been well boiled forms a good insecticide. Tobacco 
powder dredged on the affected shoots one day and washed off with a 
syringe the next is a most effective cleanser. Dipping the shoots reaches 
the insects in curled up leaves more surely, perhaps, than other methods, 
but tobacco powder is readily directed with the aid of an indiarubber 
distributor into very remote corners. When once the insects have been 
destroyed means should be taken to keep the trees clean, frequently 
syringing with clear water, affording also due supplies to the roots, the 
want of moisture and poor exhausted soii often being the chief causes 
of insects flourishing. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Vines. — Grapes Swelling. — Nothing helps so much in this as 
a genial condition of the atmosphere, which should be secured by 
warmth in the pipes, and sprinkling the paths and border in the 
morning and afternoon, particularly the latter, the border being 
mulched with a little short, rather fresh, but sweet lumpy stable 
manure, additions being made from time to time, so as to secure a 
supply of ammonia to the atmosphere and manorial matter for washing 
into the soil each time water is supplied. The mulching should be 
kept moist, but it ought only to be sprinkled when it is getting rather 
dry. Avoid a close vitiated atmosphere, particularly in calm dull 
weather. A little ventilation constantly at the top of the house will 
make all safe, but it is desirable to close the house in the afternoon, 
well damping at the same time, allowing the temperature to rise to 
90° or 95°, and after the sun passes the west, or at six o’clock, provide a 
little ventilation at the top of the house. This will allow of a change 
of air taking place, prevent excessive deposition of moisture through the 
night, and the foliage will not be so liable to scorch should the sun act 
powerfully on it before the ventilation is increased, which it ought as 
soon as the rays act on the structure sufficiently to raise the temperature. 
The great cause of scorching is inattention to early ventilation. It will 
be sufficient to insure a night temperature of 65°, and a day one of 
70° to 75°, having recourse to fire heat if necessary. Commence 
increasing ^the ventilation between 70° and 75°, allowing it to advance 
to 80° or 85°, between which keep through the day, and close, as before 
stated, so as to rise to 90° or 95°. Allow a steady growth of the laterals, 
it keeps the roots active, but avoid overcrowding, not allowing the 
laterals on any account to interfere with the free access of light and 
air to the leaves that are elaborating and storing food in the buds and 
adjacent wood at their base, those being the pruning buds. Afford full 
supplies of water or liquid manure as required. The outside borders 
should not be neglected where the rainfall is deficient, and a light 
mulching of fresh lumpy stable manure will levsen evaporation without 
depriving the soil of the beneficial action of air, warmth, and the 
moisture of dew and rain. 
Watering. —High and dry inside Vine borders do not as a rule 
receive half enough water. Supply them well with tepid water, follow¬ 
ing, in the case of Vines that carry full crops and in good but not too 
vigorous health, with thicker liquid manure, also in a tepid state, or 
apply 4 ozs. of some approved fertiliser per square yard and wash in 
moderately, mulching with short material, which, if kept moist by 
sprinkling as it becomes rather dry will give out ammonia and attract 
the roots to the surface. To allow the border to become dry at the 
surface causes the roots to strike down in quest of moisture, then the 
crops finish badly, the wood does not ripen well, and the result is 
bunches the following year that twist, curl, and wither instead of 
elongating, or if they escape that they are often spoiled through shank¬ 
ing. Deficient supplies of water and nourishment encourage attacks of 
red spider and premature ripening of the foliage. Outside borders must 
be attended to for watering, supplies of liquid manure or top-dressings, 
and light mulching. 
Regulating the Groivths. —Permit all the foliage that can be exposed 
to light to remain, but when the space is fairly covered with leaves keep 
the shoots closely pinched. The foliage should be rather thinner in the 
case of Muscat of Alexandria and other white Grapes than in that of 
black. Avoid large reductions of foliage at a time, it only tends to 
retard the swelling of the berries, and often causes them to shank 
through lessening the root activity. Vines extending may make con¬ 
siderable lateral extension, always bearing in mind that the wood on 
which the fruit is to be borne next season must have full exposure for 
its foliage, as it is the principal leaves which elaborate the sap and 
transmit the assimilated matter that forms the buds at their base. The 
laterals from these having been stopped at the first joint, they may be 
allowed to make more growth afterwards, but this must not be allowed 
to interfere with the free access of light and air to the main leaves or 
those corresponding to the pruning buds. 
rigs.— Second Crops. —Fruits in early houses have now swelled to a 
good size, and if judiciously thinned there will be a crop of fine Figs. 
This, however, depends upon the trees not being overcropped, the foliage 
being kept free fronf insects and liberally fed at the roots. If the crop 
is heavy, and a former thinning not having been sufficient, a second 
thinning should be attended to at once, leaving the most forward at the 
base of the shoots, which will ripen earlier than the others, and so afford 
more time for the ripening of the growths, which is essential to a full 
first crop another season. Early forced trees—those for starting at the 
new year—must have the young growths ripened, and be resting by the 
middle of October. 
Watering. —If the borders were allowed to become dry whilst the 
first crop is ripening they must be watered repeatedly until the soil is 
thoroughly moistened down to the drainage. Liquid manure will be 
required by trees in borders of limited extent, and more frequently 
than by trees with a larger extent of rooting area—about once a week 
in the first case and every fortnight in the other, giving thorough 
supplies, and always in a tepid state. Mulch lightly with short par¬ 
tially decayed manure, and damp whenever it becomes dry so as to 
encourage surface roots. 
Syringing and Insects. —Syringe the trees twice daily except in dull 
weather, when they should be syringed in the morning only or early in 
the afternoon, so that foliage becomes dry before night. Forcible 
syringings are generally sufficient to keep red spider in check ; but if it 
obtains a hold it must be dislodged, employing an approved insecticide 
(one of those advertised), which are effective and safe providing the 
instructions are carefuliy followed. If attended to in time syringe with 
a solution of softsoap (2 ozs. to a gallon of water is effectual), and for 
scale 3 or 4 ozs. per gallon may be used, using a brush to dislodge the 
scale, which is more than half the battle in destroying this and other 
insect pests. Painting the hot water pipes with a cream formed of 
sulphur and skim milk is an excellent remedy for red spider, and equally 
efficacious as a preventive of “ spot ” fungus in the fruit. Heat the 
pipes to about 180°, and whilst hot dress them with the flowers of 
sulphur cream. Close the house, the foliage being dry and the pipes 
hot for about an hour at least after the sulphur is applied. They 
should then be allowed to gradually cool, syringing the trees forcibly 
the following morning. 
Ventilation and Temperature.—Vigs, like abundance of air. Venti¬ 
late early, especially on bright mornings. Keep through the day at 
80° to 85° with sun, and close sufficiently early to run up to 85° or 90°, 
providing plenty of atmospheric moisture. Artificial heat will not now 
be necessary, unless the weather is unusually cold and wet ; then fire 
heat will be required to maintain a night temperature of 60° to 65° and 
70° to 75° by day. This is very important when the fruit is advanced 
for ripening, so as to secure a circulation of warm rather dry air. 
