116 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
August S, 1894. 
the interior fell to the ground, and the queen flew away and was 
lost. In order to save the swarm another after-swarm was added ; 
it had several queens, one was kept, but the bees of the latter and 
many of the former left the hive. 
On that same day I placed several swarms in their permanent 
hives. After I had the hiving box with bees into the super- 
protector, in a few seconds more the bees were all in their hives, 
not one escaping. Compare the two methods and their results, 
and in candour say if the latter plan is not by far the safer and 
best method. While the preservation of comb and bee energy are 
noticeable on the one hand the destruction of both on the other 
cannot be otherwise than a loss to the bee-keeper in persisting to 
practise so questionable a method.—A Lanarkshire Bee-keeper. 
TRADE CATALOGUES RECEIVED. 
Armitage Bros., High Street, Nottingham .—Biili Catalogue, 
W. B. Hartland, Patrick Street, Cork .—Irish Daffodils. 
L. Spath, Rixdorf, Berlin .—Bulbs and Hardy Plants. 
*0* All correspondence should be directed either to “ The 
Editor ” or to “ The Publisher.” Letters addressed to 
Dr. Hogg or members of the stafiE often remain unopened 
unavoidably. We request that no one will write privately 
to any of our correspondents, as doing so subjects them to 
unjustifiable trouble and expense. 
Correspondents should not mix up on the same sheet questions 
relating to Gardening and those on Bee subjects, and should 
never send more than two or three questions at once. All 
articles intended for insertion should be written on one side of 
the paper only. We cannot reply to questions through the post, 
and we do not undertake to return rejected communications. 
TTectarlnes Rusted (M. F .').—The fruit you have sent is destroyed 
by the fungus named and described on page 94, July 26th, in answer 
to “ A. A.” That full reply applies exactly to your case, and you cannot 
do better than have recourse to the measures there suggested. 
Peas Falling- (A. A.).—The Pea plants have turned yellow in the 
haulm and the roots have died through an attack of the Pea rot fungus 
(Peronospora vicise). This has been rather prevalent this year, 
particularly in heavily manured ground, which, though it does not 
produce the parasite, favours its operations. The germs of the fungus 
may have been introduced in the manure, or they may have been present 
in the cuticle of the seeds. Grand Peas are grown in the manner you 
describe, especially in a hot season and on a dry soil, but instead of 
merely putting in the manure it is an excellent plan to fork it into and 
mix with a spit depth of the soil below, if there be enough soil to admit 
of it, otherwise mix the manure with the upper soil, except so much as 
is necessary for sowing in. 
Blppeastrum (Amaryllis) anllca Seed Sowing- (^Somerset ').— 
The seeds should be sown as soon as ripe in well-drained pots or pans of 
sandy loam four parts, well decayed leaf mould one part, and a part of 
sharp sand, mixing well, and having the surface fine and level. Scatter 
the seeds evenly about an inch apart if sound, and cover slightly, about 
the depth the seeds are in thickness, with fine soil. The soil should be 
kept moist, and in a temperature of 65° to 70° the seedlings will soon 
appear—certainly by spring. All that is necessary is to keep the soil 
properly moist, and when the seedlings are large enough to handle, 
preferably in spring time, place them singly in very small pots, taking 
care not to cover too deeply, and afterwards plunge in bottom heat, or 
keep close, moist, and shaded till re-established. In the temperature 
named the seedlings will grow quickly, and with an annual shift in 
spring soon attain flowering size. Avoid over-potting and inserting too 
deeply—about half covering the bulbs after they form. 
Disqualifying Vegetables (^Secretary ").—Unless there is an in¬ 
terpreting clause somewhere in the schedule, the judges were, strictly 
speaking, wrong, though we cannot blame them for exercising their 
common sense and disqualifying the exhibit. A class entitled a “ tray 
of vegetables, six varieties,” would not only admit, as you put it, “ two 
sorts of Carrots,” but six sorts, if they were distinct varieties; or, in 
fact, six sorts or varieties of any other vegetable, such as Potatoes, 
Peas, or Beans. Surely that is not what was meant by the framers 
of the schedule ; and if it was they should have said so. The judges 
reasonably thought that six hinds were meant, which is quite another 
matter, and^ then two sorts of either Carrots or anything else would dis¬ 
qualify. In a class entitled “ six kinds of vegetables, distinct,” there must 
be that number of kinds and no more, and any excess would disqualify. 
If it is stated in the schedule the “ decision of the judges shall be final,” 
we should advise them to adhere to their verdict under the circumstances. 
They have reason on their side, and their ruling may lead to more 
definite terms another year. 
Diseased Onions—The Pear Tree Slug (<7. 0.).—The Onions 
are infested with the fungus named Peronospora Schleideniana, an 
ally of the Potato disease fungus. Bordeaux mixture applied soon 
enough has been found of great benefit in both cases. It is preventive, 
however, rather than curative, as when the enemy has once taken firm 
possession of the tissues of the plants fungicides have, of necessity, 
comparatively small effect in its destruction. All infested parts should 
be burned, and Onions grown distantly from the site another year. The 
other leaves are attacked by the Pear tree slug, the larva of Selandria 
mthiops, known also as Tenthredo adumbrata. The slimy black slugs 
eat away the parenchyma of the leaf, as shown in the illustration (fig. 18), 
and is frequently very destructive to wall trees, bringing growth to a stand¬ 
still and causing the fruit to drop. Miss Ormeial, in her “ Manual of 
Injurious Insects and Methods of Prevention,” says :—“ The slug-worm 
attack can be checked by dusting or syringing. The caterpillars, if 
annoyed by throwing a caustic powder on them, such as quicklime or 
gaslime, can throw it off at first by exuding a coating of slime, and thus, 
as it were, moulting off the obnoxious matter ; but they cannot keep on 
continuing this process ; therefore a second application of the powder 
(of course soon after the first) takes effect and kills them. If a good 
time is allowed to elapse between the dressings, they will have regained 
the power to produce the slime exudation, and the dressing will do little 
good. Heavy syringings of the tree with strong soapsuds, applied by a 
powerful garden engine, are very effective in getting rid of this pest. 
Tobacco water will destroy them ; and lime water has also been found 
useful, in the proportion of a peck of lime to 30 gallons of water ; it is 
noted that if 2 lbs. of softsoap are added, it will improve the mixture.” 
Sbell-lnsect Destroying Cucumber Plants (jCross'). — The 
shell-insect is one of the small shell-snails, and has been introduced 
with the soil. It is increased from eggs, which are somewhat difficult 
to destroy, as also are the minute molluscs, as they withdraw within 
their shells, and it is not easy to get anything to follow them. Good 
results have been had from watering with lime water, which may be 
made as follows :—Procure some light lumps of quicklime, as fresh from 
the kiln as possible. Slake and add 3 gallons of water to each pound 
of quicklime used,stir and let stand for twenty-four hours, then employ 
the clear lime water through a fine-rose watering can, about a gallon 
per square yard being sufficient for one application, which may be 
repeated every fortnight if necessary, but fresh lime water must be used 
each time, it not having stood less than twenty-four nor more than forty- 
eight hours. It will not injure the plants. Obviously this must be 
used when the snails are busy feeding to be the most effective. 
Weak Asparagus {D. B. F .').—The weakness of the produce is 
certainly not the result of non-salting the beds last spring. The character 
of the stems is governed by the condition of the crowns as formed and 
matured during the preceding summer and autumn. The stronger the 
summer’s growth the finer the spring heads, and salting in the spring does 
not strengthen the stems for cutting, but it favourably influences the 
aftergrowth of those uncut in some soils and seasons. Generally the 
practice of salting is good, especially in dry soils and localities ; but a 
good dressing of manure is often of greater advantage. Probably most 
cultivators both dress the beds with manure after the stems are cut 
down, and apply salt in the spring. If the salting did nothing rnore 
than keep down weeds it would do material good, as these appropriate 
the virtues from the soil that would otherwise be retained in it for the 
Asparagus. Cutting too closely and too late is a common cause of weak 
Asparagus, and several applications of liquid manure to the beds in 
the summer are of greater benefit than the majority of persons appear to 
appreciate. Some Asparagus beds are much overcrowded, and the 
produce then is bound to be weak. 
