162 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARD)^NER, 
August 16,1894. 
HYPERICUM OLYMPICUM. 
This species of St. John’s Wort is a native of Greece and of Asia 
Minor, flowering from July to September. It is much smaller in habit 
and foliage than its congener H. calycinum, which is so much in use as 
an edging plant, but the larger flowers of the Olympian species are in 
strong rivalry with the better known species. It was grown in the 
Chelsea Gardens as long since as 1706, but was not flgured in the 
“ Botanical Magazine ” till more than a century later. The flowers are 
nearly 3 inches across, and the same tint of yellow pervades the whole 
of the flower—corolla, filaments, anthers, ovary, and styles. The 
burnished inner surface of the petals reflects light strongly, making it 
appear paler than the evenly distributed colour would suggest. The 
calyx and leaves are of a pale glaucous green. The first flowers are 
terminal, but are quickly succeeded by axillary buds, which leave the 
stems at a large angle. The leaves are sometimes larger than appears 
PIG. 24.— HYPERICUM OLYMPICUM. 
in the engraving. It is doubtful whether the plant is hardy enough to 
resist our winters, and it should therefore receive the protection of a 
frame in the cold months. It is increased by division or seeds, which 
latter should be sown as soon as ripe. Germination takes place in early 
spring. It grows to 8 or 9 inches in height, two or three stems appearing 
from near the crown, and is of a very simple habit; Our engraving 
(fig. 24) was made from a plant at Kew. 
GARDENERS’ CHARITABLE AND PROVIDENT 
INSTITUTIONS. 
The Gardeners’ Royal Benevolent Institution. — Secretary, 
Mr. G. J. Ingram, 50, Parliament Street, London, W.C. 
United Horticultural Benefit and Provident Society.— 
Secretary, Mr. W. Collins, 9, Martindale Road, Balham, London, S.W. 
Royal Gardeners’ Orphan Fund. — Secretary, Mr. A. P. Barron. 
Royal Horticultural Society's Gardens, Chiswick, London, W. 
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HARDY FRUIT GARDEN. 
Preparlntr Strawberry Ground. —To ensure the most lasting 
and profitable results with Strawberries it is important that the soil 
when planting should be in a uniformly rich and fertile condition. 
Strawberries are gross feeders, and imbibe also a considerable quantity 
of moisture at all periods of growth. It is necessary, therefore, that the 
soil be as deeply worked as circumstances will allow, and food provided 
within reach of the roots. Deep cultivation ensures a better supply of 
moisture in light and dry soils, while in heavy retentive ground nothing- 
conduces to its improvement better than working and breaking up the 
subsoil, which acts in many cases as drainage. 
Trencblng Ground. —The best manner of carrying out deep culti- 
I vation is by means of bastard trenching. When dealing with heavy, 
I strong soil this is best performed the previous autumn, as it ensures a 
I greater amount of pulverisation than is possible when dealt with later. 
I For soil, however, that is naturally in good working condition, its 
i preparation a few weeks prior to planting is sufiicient. Many cultivators 
j prefer to prepare all kinds of soil in autumn, leaving the winter frosts 
and rains to ameliorate the surface, and then take a crop of early 
Potatoes from the ground, which leaves it in perfect condition, needing 
but little preparation after their removal beyond cleaning, levelling, and 
firming. Having selected the plot, dig out a trench across the piece. It 
may be 30 inches wide and one spade deep, the soil removed being 
wheeled to the opposite end, or the plot can be divided into two parts, 
cutting a trench across half way only, throwing the soil on the unopened 
portion of the remaining half, where the trenching will eventually be 
finished. Thoroughly loosen the bottom of the open trench, working in 
a layer of manure, and if the soil is very heavy road scrapings or other 
gritty material. Then place on the surface another layer of manure, and 
proceed to dig out the top spit of the next trench, placing the soil on the 
first. Follow on with each trench in the same manner until the whole 
is completed. 
Top-dressing- and Firming Ground. —Where the soil is poor and 
manure was not freely applied in the top spit when trenching a dressing 
of half-decayed material may be forked in prior to planting. Light 
soils need abundance of manure, well incorporating it in, but strong 
holding loams should not be manured too liberally at first, as such are 
usually in good heart. All soils are much benefited by a liberal dressing 
ot burnt refuse spread on the surface prior to planting. It might be 
lightly forked in, but it answers well to leave it on the surface. When 
dry, the ground should be trodden firmly, as Strawberries thrive best in 
well consolidated soil. When loose and rich as well a too luxuriant 
growth of foliage is caused. 
Planting Strawberries. —Plants well rooted in pots ought first to 
be attended to, as owing to rapid growth they are liable to become root- 
bound to such an extent that they will be seriously checked in develop¬ 
ment. Previous to planting the roots must be thoroughly moistened. 
Insert the balls low enough so that the crowns of the plants are a little 
below the suface. Make the soil very firm about them, especially where 
plants have roots in a compact mass, as in those from pots. A shallow 
basin-like cavity may be left around each for the purpose of holding 
water. Most growers prefer planting in dull, cool weather, but not im¬ 
mediately after rain when the soil isiwet, but after the surface has dried. 
Plants rooted in turves ought to have the latter quite moist when plant¬ 
ing, and those lifted from between the rows shoutd have as much moist 
soil adhering to the fibres as possible. Make good sized holes in order 
that the roots may be spread out at full length, but it is better if each 
plant can be lifted with a fork, and transferred to position without loss 
of soil or roots. 
Planting New Stock. —New plants from a distance must be care¬ 
fully dealt with. The roots are sometimes very dry, unless the plants are 
in pots or received recently turned out with proper packages. If the 
leaves and stems are limp, immerse the roots in water ; enough moisture 
will soon be absorbed to freshen the plants. In planting spread out the 
fibres on little cones of soil in the centre of the holes prepared, and 
scatter over them some light fine soil, making it firm around the collars. 
In these cases a small depression for holding water is indispensable, 
copious supplies being needed to establish them in dry weather. 
Distances for Planting. —The strongest growers need abundant 
room between the rows, and a corresponding amount between the plants. 
Rows 2 feet 6 inches apart, with the plants 2 feet asunder, are the usual 
distances for the more vigorous kinds. A few inches more can be given 
to the exceptionally strong varieties, or where planted in superior soil. 
The medium growers are well accommodated with the rows 2 feet apart, 
the plants being 18 inches asunder. 
After Treatment. —Keeping down weeds and cutting off runners 
as they form must be assiduously attended to. Hoeing or stirring the 
surface promotes free growth, by adding to the sweetness and warmth, 
as well as retaining the moisture of the soil. It prevents the appropria¬ 
tion of the food elements other than by the legitimate crop. The aim 
should be to obtain by the close of the growing season strong plants 
' having bold crowns. Those which are planted in a weakly condition 
