August 23,18i)4. 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
167 
liriSTAKES are made in setting, colouring, and in overcropping 
JjJL this grand Grape, and for all of which the penalty has to be 
paid. In my opinion growers are unduly anxious during the 
flowering period, whereas the extra care should be taken before the 
bunches are in flower, and not just at the time they are bursting open. 
The best sets I ever effected, and I could not wish for more well- 
stoned berries or more bunches to select from, were always when 
abundance of light and sunshine reached the bunches some time 
before they commenced flowering, and the worst when either 
the rods or the laterals on the rods were crowded. It is not so 
much a case either of temperatures, camel-hair brushes, rabbit’s tail, 
a soft hand, or Pampas Grass plumes, as of strong, well-formed 
flowers. Let the sunshine reach the embryo bunches early, and 
during the flowering period be content with a moderate amount 
of fire heat, or enough to maintain a gentle circulation of warm, 
dry air, especially towards midday, at which time, or occasionally 
an hour earlier, a smart tap of the laterals carrying the bunches in 
flower will do the rest. It is, I know from experience, trying 
work cutting out strong, healthy Vine rods, with a view of giving 
others more room; but, as I shall presently show, it is an error 
to retain too many. Who has not found what promised to be 
very fine bunches, if only they set well, turn out failures or mere 
skeletons, whereas a few, too few, it sometimes happens, neglected 
bunches situated on the upper side of the laterals or between the 
foliage and glass have set surprisingly well ? If anyone discovers 
where he has erred this season he may profit by the experience 
gained next year. This may not be the most suitable time to be 
cutting out superfluous rods in some vineries, but it ought to be 
done directly the crops are cut, or while yet in full leafage, and 
there will then be no risks of injury from bleeding. 
Too much shade is undoubtedly prejudicial to the proper colour¬ 
ing of berries, and the other extreme is frequently carried out 
accordingly. Why will gardeners persist in baring their bunches 
to direct sunshine when they must know that they colour very 
imperfectly under this treatment, and more often than not become 
badly disfigured by this undue exposure ? That beautiful clear 
amber so dear to exhibitors, judges, and all who admire perfec¬ 
tion in Grapes never was yet “ laid on ” or brought about by 
exposing the bunches to direct sunshine. This practice of 
artificially colouring is simply an attempt to hasten ripening 
unduly, and usually ends in discoloration rather than perfect 
colouring. This may seem a bold assertion, but it cannot be 
gainsaid. I have assisted to bare, by tying or turning back the 
leaves from hundreds of bunches of Muscats, and in tying up 
some to the full sunshine, for gardeners it was my fortune to serve 
under, and have treated far too many bunches similarly that were 
solely under my charge not to know what I am writing about. 
Where the bunches are a long way from the glass, and there are 
a few large vineries where there is from 18 inches to 2 feet clear 
space between the Vines and the glass, fewer risks are run by 
tying back the leaves or otherwise exposing the bunches to the full 
sunshine, but the gain is doubtful. Hanging on the Vines the 
exposed bunches look to be considerably a-head of those more 
under the leaves ; but cut those bunches, place them on show 
boards, and note the difference between the colour of the “face” 
and the sides. If the same bunches had been allowed more time in 
No. 739.—VoL. XXIX., Thied Seeies 
which to ripen naturally, they would most probably colour far 
more perfectly because more uniformly or all round alike, and free 
of spot or discolouration. I have taken particular notice of Muscats 
thus artificially coloured, and others in the same house which were 
allowed to ripen more naturally. The latter were beautiful—as 
clear as amber—while the former were anything but satisfactory 
when cut. According to my experience considerable time must be 
allowed for the perfect ripening of extra fine bunches with berries 
also of the full size than is required for smaller bunches and 
berries of a medium size, and this fact is brought out in a marked 
manner on the exhibition tables during August. 
After having denounced what I believe to be a faulty practice 
it behoves me to give what I consider a right one. I hold that 
white Grapes ought never to be subjected to either extreme—that 
is to say, to neither much shade or excessive sunshine. It is the 
happy medium that is required, and this can be best brought 
about by disposing the rods well apart rather than have them closer 
together and the laterals thin. Muscat rods should be not less 
than 4 feet asunder, another foot being none too much where the 
Vines are extra strong and well grown. Then if the laterals are 
stopped the first time at the second leaf beyond the reserved bunch, 
and the sub-laterals at the first leaf each time, taking some 
of the latter clean out, light and sunshine will reach the bunches to 
insure their perfect colouring without striking full on them. A 
fairly brisk heat (fixed temperatures I have no faith in) and a good 
circulation of dry air should accompany this treatment, and in 
particular ought fire heat to be employed during dull, cold 
weather. It is possible to colour Muscats in a house alongside 
Black Hamburghs, always providing the former have the warmer 
end to themselves. 
Overcropping is quite as fatal to the colouring of Muscats or 
any other white Grape, as it proves to black Gripes generally and 
Black Hamburgh in particular. Muscat of Alexandria fortunately 
is a fairly long-suffering Grape, but it is always a mistake to over¬ 
ride the willing horse. For a while, or perhaps till such times as 
the soil in the borders is becoming stale, the Vines continue to gain 
in size and produce a profusion of bunches from which to select 
a crop, but overwork eventually leaves its mark. Repeatedly over¬ 
cropping greatly checks root and top growth alike, while faulty 
colouring and probably shanking are the consequent evils to be 
reckoned with. In extreme cases the wood will also fail to ripen 
properly, and nothing but drastic remedial measures will restore 
these badly used Vines to a healthy, profitable condition. In 
particular ought young Vines and any that have recently been 
lifted, to be favoured as regards light cropping. I know that all 
gardeners are not in a position to do just as they would like to do, 
and not a few are very badly situated as regards supplies of good 
soil, manure, and water. Too much is also frequently expected of 
those persons whose means for producing are not adequate to the 
demand. 
Cutting off well-set Muscat bunches is very hard work indeed. 
Most of us put off the final selection as long as possible, in order 
to be certain of having the requisite number of the best set 
bunches to leave hanging, and after much time has been spent, 
and discussions have taken place, too many are yet retained. 
Now well-grown Muscats contain much pulp and solid matter, and 
are not mere bags of seed, sugar, and water. Those great solid 
bunches that are very commonly met with nowadays undoubtedly 
take much substance out of the Vines, and, as before stated, they 
ought not to be very close together, while the Vines supporting 
them should be freely fed at the roots. Muscats really appear to 
need more water and soluble food than any other varieties of 
Grapes, and in confined borders they must have it in abundance 
too, or shanking and shrivelling of berries will most likely take 
place. 
The question now arises. How many bunches should a Vine 
carry, or what constitutes a full crop ? The answer to this can 
No, 2395.—VoL. XCI,, Old Seeies. 
