168 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
August 23, 1894. 
only be given in general terms ; so much depends upon circum¬ 
stances. Those persons who have to deal with hard-worked and 
none too well-fed Vines, rooting, it may be, in a worn-out border, 
will do well to either cut off the larger bunches, no matter how 
well they may be set, or to reduce their size considerably. 
There is nothing to be urged against and much to be said in favour 
of the practice of completely removing some of the longest 
shoulders and freely shortening back the others, the length of the 
bunch also being reduced. As I have previously hinted, it is the 
smaller bunches, or those 2 lbs. more or less in weight, that are 
the easiest to colour, and two of these will usually give greater 
satisfaction to the owners than one large bunch 4 lbs. or more in 
weight. If there is 1 lb. of Grapes to the foot run of rod that is 
a good crop, and should not be exceeded—W. I. 
ASPIDISTRAS. 
It is by no means surprising that Aspidistras should form the 
subject of so many inquiries, as they are extremely useful and 
effective for room and window decorations, endure rough treatment 
better than most plants, and may be well grown in positions 
where few others will thrive. The one weak point about them 
is that they make their growth but slowly. This several cor¬ 
respondents seem to have found out, and do well to make 
inquiries concerning their treatment. As long as Aspidistras are 
kept in an active condition at the roots the foliage produced is 
strong and vigorous ; but when the roots receive a check and 
become unhealthy, no matter from what cause, the growth made 
gradually decreases in size, and unless something is done to remedy 
the evil the plant in time becomes unsightly rather than ornamental. 
I will, therefore, first give a few remarks on the treatment of 
unhealthy specimens. 
Although plants may be more quickly restored to health in the 
spring than at any other time, still it is advisable to deal with them 
immediately they are found to be in an unsatisfactory condition. 
Commence by turning them out of the pots, when it will be fre¬ 
quently noticed that the soil has become sour and many of the 
roots decayed. If so shake the soil from them, wash the roots in 
tepid water, cub away any dead or unhealthy parts, and repot in 
sweet fresh soil. The compost I find most suitable for the purpose 
is one somewhat lighter than that employed for plants in an 
unsatisfactory condition. These are the ingredients ;—Good loam 
with a fair amount of fibre one part, peat one part, leaf soil one 
part, with a plentiful addition of broken charcoal and sand. These 
materials should be passed through the half-inch sieve, as young 
roots are more quickly formed in a soil that has been finely divided. 
Aspidistras are shallow-rooting plants ; ample drainage should, 
therefore, be given. In some cases the pots may be half filled 
with crocks. In all instances place a little moss over them. Use 
pots of as small a size as the plants can be conveniently placed in, 
allowing just enough space between the inside of the pot and the 
outer roots to work in a little soil, finishing off by just covering 
the root-like stems (rhizomes) with soil. A few sticks should also 
be employed to fasten the principal leaves to, so that the plant may 
be kept firmly in position. A good watering through a rose should 
then be given ; afterwards care must be exercised in giving water 
till young roots have been formed. 
After potting the plants ought, if possible, receive a little 
bottom heat. During the summer a frame placed on a bed of 
stable manure and leaves, in which the heat is gradually declining, 
is a most suitable position for them, a little sawdust or cocoa-nut 
fibre being placed upon the bed, into which the pots may be 
plunged about half their depth. Shade on the first appearance of 
sunshine, damp the foliage lightly with the syringe each fine 
morning, and on the afternoons of bright days close early with 
abundance of moisture, and allow the shade to remain on till about 
4 P.M. Lessen the amount of shade given, increase the air as 
the plants become established, and by the end of September 
transfer them to a greenhouse or vinery, where with careful 
attention in the way of watering they will be in the right condition 
for making good growth during the following spring. When the 
plants are repotted at that period a little room can usually be 
found for them on the bed of a Cucumber or Melon house, or 
oropagating pit. Failing these positions a vinery where the 
foliage of the Vines has advanced sufficiently to afford shade, is a 
suitable place, and an ordinary greenhouse does very well. 
Aspidistras, however, appreciate a little extra heat and moisture 
during their season of growth. 
Thus far the remarks on potting and subsequent treatment apply 
especially to plants that have lapsed into an unhealthy condition. 
Now for a few words about the treatment of healthy plants. The 
best time for potting these is just before growth commences in 
the spring. Use a compost of two parts loam or good garden soil, 
one part peat, and one part leaf mould, sharp sand and broken char¬ 
coal being freely added, for it is necessary to have soil porous, so 
that stagnation at the roots may be especially avoided. This 
compost should be used in a rather rough state, simply pulling the 
turfy loam and peat to pieces with the hands, and passing the leaf 
soil through the half-inch sieve. Plants that have produced leaves 
over the whole surface of the soil should be repotted without being 
disturbed, beyond removing the loose compost and any injured 
roots. Give small shifts, as a rule using pots only two sizes larger, 
and press the soil moderately firm about the roots. After potting, 
plants of this description will do well in almost any structure 
where there is a moderate amount of heat and atmospheric moisture, 
and it is by no means necessary to have them near the glass— 
indeed, I have plants which produce much finer leaves in an old 
conservatory with high side walls, than others kept nearer the 
glass. Aspidistras frequently produce their leaves all round the 
sides of the pot, and the centre of the plant is left quite hollow. 
The best way to deal with these is to divide them into several 
pieces, and place them in pots according to their size. By so 
treating all the plants which show this tendency the stock is 
gradually increased. Of course, plants that have been divided 
should, if possible be kept in close frames or houses, where they 
receive the benefit of bottom heat. 
When roots have become numerous the green-leaved varieties 
may be much improved in health and vigour by frequent 
applications of soot water, the chemical manures so freely 
advertised, and an occasional one of nitrate of soda. This may ba 
given at the rate of half a teaspoonful to a 7-inch pot, and be 
thoroughly watered in. In the case of the variegated forms I find 
stimulating manures have a tendency to cause the foliage to lose 
its variegation, and frequently to send up quite green leaves. I, 
therefore, depend on frequent top-dressing and abundance of 
water to keep them in a vigorous condition. 
The green-leaved varieties may also with advantage be given 
more shade than the variegated forms. Once in three or four 
years is quite often enough to repot the plants when they have 
reached a suitable size. Red spider is the only insect that gives 
much trouble, and this may be easily kept at bay if the syringe is 
used freely. When plants are infested with this pest a thorough 
sponging with warm water in which carbolic soap has been 
dissolved soon clear it off; indeed, periodical spongings is one 
of the greatest cultural aids towards securing and maintaining 
clean, vigorous, and healthy leaves, without which the plants are 
comparatively useless for decorative purposes.—H. D. 
THE NUTRITION OF ROOTS. 
It is a great pleasure to me to think Mr. Raillem (page 120) 
was satisfied with the facts set forth in my article, and can now 
retire without any loss of the power of his pen. As the matter 
turns out he was not responsible for a part, and that part 
caused the controversy which has been, and I trust will be, very 
interesting. 
Mr. Gilmour (page 120) still struggles with the waves in the 
sea of science, and is catching at straws to save himself from some 
errors in his argument set forth in his previous articles. It is very 
commendable how Mr. Gilmour apologises to the readers of the 
Journal of Horticulture. I am sorry he attacked the second 
paragraph, as he tries to prove that because vapour present in the 
atmosphere contains a few elements and compounds only, then the 
whole theory is exploded. 
Mr. Gilmour, in paragraph 3, quotes my argument that 
soluble elements and compounds on certain conditions “ may be ” 
found in the water contained or condensed on the glass, and also 
in distilled water. There is no mistake about this, and I beg leave 
to confirm that argument as a fact beyond dispute by authorities. 
Now take the fourth paragraph. Mr. Gilmour mentions that I 
said water which is brought to the surface by evaporation will 
contain a great deal of organic and inorganic elements that are 
soluble. That is so. They will be held in solution until the 
rarefied water reaches the surface, when the water is completely 
converted into vapour, the solid organic and inorganic impurities 
are deposited on or close to the surface. I confirm that it is so. 
I did not say that no inorganic or organic elements or compounds 
would pass off with the vapour. Some solid compounds will 
pass off into vapour at normal temperatures ; but there is a vast 
difference between the solid compounds left on the surface, and 
those elements and compounds that volatilise and pass off as vapour. 
I credited Mr. Gilmour with a knowledge of the subject, and 
with the power of perception sufficiently clear or keen to see the 
