September 6,1894. 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
235 
ventilated, and cold. The pruning will cause the Vines to go more 
quickly and thoroughly to rest, but it will have the opposite effect on 
unripe ones and where the atmospheric conditions favour growth. If 
the Vines are in good condition they will afford bunches quite large 
enough if pruned to a couple of buds from the base, but when they are 
weak from overcropping or a long course of forcing the spur shoots may 
be left a little longer to secure larger bunches. When this method is 
adopted shoots should be taken from as near the base as possible as well 
as the bearing, and not be allowed to carry fruit, but be stopped at the 
sixth leaf, the laterals to one, and subsequently as produced. Such 
shoots are sure to form good buds, as the extra foliage tends to invigorate 
the Vines and support the fruit on the other shoot, which can be cut 
away when the fruit is removed in favour of that retained for fruiting 
the following season. This alternate system of fruiting necessitates the 
shoots being kept wider apart for development and exposure to light 
and air. 
If the Vines are grown on the usual extension system it will be 
necessary to cut to plump buds on firm ripe wood, being guided by the 
space at command, for there must not be overcrowding. It is important 
that the house be thoroughly cleansed. Any weakly Vines, or those in 
an unsatisfactory state, may be improved by removing the soil down to 
the roots and substituting fresh loam, with an admixture of one-sixth 
of old mortar rubbish, a tenth of wood ashes, a fortieth of crushed 
bones, and a sprinkling of some approved fertiliser. Lift any roots 
available for the purpose, laying them out upon the fresh compost, and 
cover 3 or 4 inches deep. This is best done before the fall of the leaf. 
It is a mistake to allow Vines when at rest to become dust-dry at the 
roots. Comparative dryness is desirable, yet great injury is done by 
allowing the border to become dried to the extent of cracking and 
severing the fibres. The outside border should have a covering of 
some kind to protect the roots from the heavy autumn rains, which 
reduce the temperature considerably. Glass lights are preferable, as 
they throw off heavy rains, whilst allowing the sun to penetrate the 
soil. Some persons, however, are obliged to do without such aids, being 
content to apply a covering of leaves and litter after cold weather 
sets in to prevent the soil freezing, which is an absolute necessity in 
early forcing. 
Succession Houses .—Midseason Vines have the fruit ripe or ripening, 
and will need a free circulation of air, especially in the early part of fine 
■days, as the night dews are heavy and the condensation of moisture on 
the berries take place rapidly indoors if the atmosphere rises consider¬ 
ably before air is admitted. A little air constantly is a good thing, but 
it must be increased early on fine mornings and a free circulation 
allowed whenever the weather is favourable. Moderate air moisture is 
essential for the benefit of the foliage and the sound keeping of the 
berries, but a close stagnant atmosphere soon causes the Grapes to spot 
and decay. The laterals should be kept from interfering with the access 
of light and air to the principal leaves, otherwise a good spread of 
healthy foliage over black Grapes is one of the best safeguards against 
their losing colour. White Grapes also do not become brown so soon 
when not exposed to the direct rays of the sun as they do when the 
foliage is thin. Where the Grapes have been cut the laterals may be 
reduced, also the long bearing shoots cut back to two or three leaves 
•above the pruning buds. This will facilitate cleansing the foliage of 
red spider and other pests, and assist in plumping the basal buds as well 
as the ripening of the wood by the increased amount of light. 
Late Grapes .—Where the Vines were started in good time the Grapes 
are well advanced in ripening. Keep the laterals well thinned, and 
thereby admit as much air as possible to insure the finishing of the crop, 
not by large reductions at a time but by frequent pinchings. Maintain 
an artificial temperature of 70° to 75°, falling 5° or 10° during the night, 
increasing to 80° or 85° by day, accompanied with a circulation of air 
constantly, and free under favourable atmospheric conditions. Where 
the Grapes are only beginning to colour somewhat sharp firing will be 
required to finish them properly before the days are too short and cold 
to admit of free ventilation, it being possible to do more in the next 
nconth or six weeks’ time than in twice the time later on. With the 
Grapes well advanced in colouring and ripening the atmospheric mois¬ 
ture should be reduced ; those only colouring should have a moderate 
amount of atmospheric moisture to assist their swelling, not neglecting 
to supply water to the roots as required. 
Young Vines .—Those that have made a strong growth and are late in 
ripening should be assisted with fire heat, continuing it until the wood 
is ripe, accompanied with free top and bottom ventilation. Discourage 
any further growth by the removal of the laterals as they appear, and 
withhold water from the roots, only the soil must not be allowed to 
become too dry, and if the roots have the run of outside borders, some 
spare lights placed over the border so as to throw off the wet will be 
very beneficial. If the autumn be dry the border is better exposed, but 
heavy rains are better thrown off when the wood does not ripen kindly. 
Melons.— The latest plants are fast covering the trellis and showing 
fruit freely. By fertilising these on every other plant fruit will be 
quickly secured, while by removing the first fruits on the others a later 
and fuller crop will be afforded on the second laterals. Earth un the 
plants after the fruit is set, not before, and after that be sparing with 
the syringe on dull days, employing it only on bright afternoons, and 
then early, taking care not to overwater at the roots, yet maintaining a 
genial atmosphere by occasionally sprinkling surfaces about the house. 
Promote healthy action by the use of stimulating and sustaining liquid 
applications. Lale plants in frames will require linings and coverings 
on cold nights. This will admit of a little air daily and aid evaporation. 
Very little water will be required, only giving sufficient to keep the 
foliage fresh. A warm, dry, and well ventilated atmosphere is essential 
to the fruit ripening well. 
THE FLOWER GARDEN. 
Ageratums and Heliotropes. —Sowing seed in the spring is the 
best way to raise Ageratum plants. Those obtained from cuttings are, 
however, the most compact, and, if desirable, a stock might yet be pro¬ 
pagated with a view to having abundance of cuttings next spring. 
Select soft, flowerless tops from the best plants, and dibble them thinly 
in 5-inch pots, placing in gentle heat. Old plants of both Ageratums 
and Heliotropes often fail to lift well, but if a number of the latter have 
been kept for flowering in pots during the autumn and winter, these will 
produce abundance of cuttings next spring. Failing these root a good 
number of tops as advised in the case of Ageratums. 
Verbenas. —A showery season suits these old fashioned bedding 
plants, and if they ha^’e been rather shabby at times this summer, they 
have quickly recovered again. There is no lack of soft clean cuttings, 
and abundance of these should, if not already done, be taken off and 
rooted. It is the young flowerless shoots that should be preferred, and 
these ought to be shortened to the third joint, dibbling them before they 
flag badly in w'ell drained 5-inch pots filled with a mixture of fresh 
loam, leaf soil and sand. A partially exhausted hotbed is the best 
place to root them on, and they should be kept close, shaded from bright 
sunshine, and moist till rooted. Much dry heat ruins either cuttings or 
well rooted plants. 
Zonal Pelargoniums. —Cuttings are so very soft and sappy that 
they are somewhat difficult to root and save. The old-fashioned plan of 
preparing the cuttings for pots and pans, and then spreading them out 
in the sunshine to flag and dry for a whole day or two, gets rid of much 
superfluous moisture, and has much to recommend it. Late rooted 
cuttings can be wintered most surely in 4-incli or slightly larger pots, as 
these can be stored thickly on shelves in cool dry houses. In these the 
cuttings may be dibbled in quite thickly, giving them more room in the 
spring. At this late date they must not be exposed to showery weather 
and heavy fogs and dew, but should have the benefit of glazed coverings, 
and all the light, air, and sunshine possible. No water ought to be 
given at first, and only enough later on to keep the stems from shrivelling 
badly. There will, very probably, be many failures, and abundance of 
cuttings ought therefore to be put in. 
Ireslnes, Coleuses, and Alternantheras. —Rooted cuttings are 
preferable to lifted old plants, even when the latter recover well irom 
the check. The first frost will cripple these delicate bedding plants, and 
no time, therefore, should be lost in rooting a number of young tops. 
Use 5-inch pots well drained and light soil. Place six cuttings in each 
pot and root them in heat. All are liable to damp wholesale, and the 
frames or glass covering them will require to be weU dried every 
morning. 
Fuchsias. —These are now very popular as bedding plants and also 
for plunging separately on the turf. If young flowerless shoots can be 
had, these might be rooted in pots or pans in heat, much as advised in 
the case of Verbenas. Instead of wintering them in the cutting pots 
the better plan would be to pot them seoarately, and keep them 
steadily growing all through the winter. They sometimes make good 
pyramids without any pinching other than stopping the side shoots, but 
more often they require to be stopped frequently in order to form a good 
bottom, after which a strong central leader may be trained to a stake, 
this and the side shoots being pinched back as often as flowering 
threatens. A moist gentle heat suits Fuchsias, and they must not be 
allowed to become badly root-bound prior to shifting into larger sizes. 
Harclssl and Haffodlls. —These are rightly extremely popular, 
and no class of bulbous flowered plants better repays for the little 
trouble necessary to take with them. The commoner kinds, notably of 
the Polyanthus Narcissus intended for the flower beds, must perforce be 
kept out of the ground some time longer, but there should be no further 
delay in the case of the choicer sections. In many positions the latter 
succeed well when not disturbed oftener than every third year, but some 
few of the delicate species require to be moved more frequently. If 
single bulbs of rare or expensive varieties are planted from 4 inches to 
5 inches deep in good loamy soil they will flower next spring, and also 
form several offsets, which will attain a flowering size in the course of 
two seasons, always provided they are not detached from the parent 
bulb too quickly. The present is also a good time for lifting, sorting 
over, and replanting any species that last season gave signs of either 
failing health or of being unduly crowded. Plant all the medium-sized 
to large bulbs either in lines or thin groups where they will be best seen, 
and they are suitable plants for fruit borders alongside garden walks, 
and the smaller offsets in nursery beds. The Common Daffodils and 
Pheasant-eye Narcissi may also be now procured for growing in shrub¬ 
beries, alongside woodland walks, and such like. They are well adapted 
for planting under the turf in patches or singly, as they flower and die 
down again before it is necessary to mow the grass. 
Alstrbmerlas. —There would be fewer failures with these if more 
judgment was exercised in the selection of sites. They fail in cold 
sites and heavy soil, and succeed admirably when planted in the 
narrow warm borders often formed close up to sunny house fronts. 
Plant rather deeply and do not disturb again for many years. Under 
this treatment they will increase rapidly and flower grandly every 
season. 
Irises —The bulbous rooted species of these beautiful plants ought 
to be taken up, divided, and replanted every second or third season. 
