258 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
September 13, 1894. 
the same variety, and Mr. C. Turner, Slough, third, with R, T. 
Rawlingi. 
Light-coloured Dahlias were admirably shown, Mr. J. W. Seale 
securing the first prize for half dozen blooms of Mrs. Gladstone. Mr. 
C. Turner was second with Queen of the Belgians, the third prize going 
to Mr. J. Walker, who staged fine blooms of Mrs. Gladstone. The last- 
named exhibitor was first with six blooms of any edged Dahlia, staging 
excellent examples of H. W. Ward. Mr. Seale was second with Mrs. 
Langtry, and Messrs. Saltmarsh & Sons third with the same variety. 
Mr. Seale had the best six blooms of any tipped Dahlia in Mrs. 
Saunders, Mr. W. Heasman, and Messrs. Kimberley & Sons, Coventry. 
Mr. J. Tranter was first with Rev. J. B. M. Camm in the class for six 
blooms of any striped Dahlia. Mr. J. Walker was second with the 
same variety, Mr. Mortimer being third with Dandy. 
Miscellaneous exhibits were not very numerous, though those shown 
made a good display. Messrs. J. Laing& Sons, Forest Hill, S.B., had an 
extensive collection of hardy flowers and a group of stove and green¬ 
house plants. Messrs. H. Cannell & Sons, S wanley, staged a large number 
of Cactus and Pompon Dahlias. Mr. T. S. Ware, Hale Farm Nurseries, 
Tottenham, made a very flne show of Pompon, Cactus, and single 
Dahlias. Mr. J. Walker, Thame, sent a box of Show and Fancy Dahlias. 
Mfssrs. W. Paul & Son, Waltham Cross, sent a large collection of cut 
Roses, also a number of excellent fruit trees in pots, including Grapes, 
Peaches, Pears, and Figs. Messrs. Paul & Son, Cheshunt, had perennial 
Phloxes in variety. 
Certificates. 
First-class certificates were awarded for new seedling varieties to 
Messrs. Keynes, Williams & Co. for Cactus Dahlias Mr. Haskins, Harmony, 
Mrs. Barnes, and Henry Depresle ; Mr. T. W. Girdlestone for single 
Dahlias Darling, Psyche, Gaiety Girl, Puck, and Golden Locks ; Messrs. 
Cannell & Sons for Cactus Dahlias Miss Irene Cannell and Mrs. H. 
Cannell, miniature Cactus Dahlias Cannell’a Gem and Cannell’s Velvet ; 
Messrs. J. Cheal & Sons for decorative Dahlia Mrs. Horniman ; Mr. 
Thomas Ware, Tottenham, for Cactus Dahlia Mrs. Francis Fell; Mr. G. 
Humphries, Chippenham, for Pompon Dahlia Iona ; Mr. S. Mortimer, 
Farnham, for Fancy Dahlia Novelty ; and Mr. J. R. Tranter, Henley-on- 
Thames, for Show Dahlia Mabel Stanton. 
HARDY FRUir GARDEN. 
Gathering- Fruit. —The necessity for attending to this important 
work daily is imperative, if fruit is required in the best condition and to 
keep sound for a prolonged period. A large number falls from the 
trees from various causes. This, owing to its bruised condition, and the 
consequent decay which rapidly sets in, is comparatively valueless, 
hence the necessity of gathering the best specimens before they become 
permanently injured. There are several well-proved tests which must 
be noted before gathering Apples and Pears. The frequent falling of 
fruit is a sure indication that the ripening period is advancing. The 
first yellow tinges appearing, and the green parts gradually becoming 
suffused with rich colour, is a well-known sign of ripening. The pips 
and seeds turning from white to brown is a general test, but not 
absolutely reliable in all cases. The surest test of fitness to gather lies 
in the easy separation of the fruit from the spur when lifted out of its 
natural position. If sufficiently mature to gather, the stalk is easily 
detached, but if not, and force has to be employed, with sundry 
twists and jerks, the fruit is far from being ready. Gathering 
should take place when the fruit is dry, placing it in bas ets lined with 
soft hay or moss in single layers only, in order that no bruising may 
spoil the specimens. It is important to move it about as little as 
possible, and to see that no fallen or otherwise bruised fruit becomes 
mixed with the carefully gathered samples. 
Storing- Fruit.— When the gathering has been carefully carried 
out, so as not to break the outer skin of the fruit or to rupture the cells 
within, it is in the best condition for storing whether for long or short 
periods. A properly constructed fruit room is unquestionably the best 
place, but fruit will keep well in rooms that are moderately cool, but 
not too dry, and having a temperature ensured in the -winter of 40° to 46°. 
Failing shelves on which to lay the fruit it may be placed in drawers 
and shallow boxes in such manner, especially with the choicest speci¬ 
mens, that the whole may be seen at a glance without having to 
constantly move it for examination. Moreover, all fruit keeps in a 
sounder condition as well as ripens better when stored in single layers. 
The commoner kinds of Apples may, for early use, be stored three or 
four layers deep to economise room when heavy crops prevail, avoiding, 
however, heaps on the floor or shelves, whereby sweating takes place and 
decay sets in wholesale. When much fruit is stored at once there will 
be, at first, a certain amount of moisture evaporate from it, hence the 
need of almost continuous ventilation for a short period. Avoid straw 
or hay for laying the fruit on, as these materials gather and retain 
moisture, creating odour.'; y.-lych are imUbed by the fruit. Clean white 
paper is not objectionable, but on perfectly clean shelves nothing, as a- 
rule, is needed. 
Frequently examine all stored fruit, because there may be specimens 
decaying unnoticed. These must be removed without delay, or they 
will speedily contaminate their neighbours. The latest fruit should 
have the coolest position, those more forward in ripening the warmest. 
Some of the latter may, from time to time, as found advisable, be greatly 
accelerated in ripening by being placed in an increased temperature 
for a short time. Pears and Apples ought to be stored separately from 
each other, and the varieties of each occupy alone the boxes, drawers, or 
space required. Ventilating fruit rooms occasionally throughout the 
season is necessary to effect a change of air, but draughts are not good. 
A dark room is best for keeping fruit, and in conjunction with air 
equable temperature the process of ripening will be gradual and 
thorough. 
Tblnning: Gooseberry Bushes. —The present is a very suitable 
time to go over both old and young Gooseberry trees, and cut out a 
quantity of superfluous wood. That which crowds the interior and 
prevents the main stems being seen, also obstructing light and air 
passing freely through, is worse than useless. The pendulous varieties 
have a great tendency to become crowded with growth near the ground 
line. If long neglected the growths thus produced take root-hold after 
the manner of layers, and in their turn make wood, adding greatly to the 
rank undergrowth. By well pruning and thinning out now the trees- 
may be made shapely and the wood well disposed to receive the ripening 
influences of the autumn. Old trees have frequently a free growth of 
suckers springing from the base that ought to be removed entirely. 
Cut out awkward growing branches and leave a fair amount of young 
wood unshortened at present. Aim at making the bushes so that they 
can be seen through, and the hand passed freely among the branches. 
Autumn-pruning- Bush Apple Trees. —Bush Apples growing 
in a free and open style are very productive with comparatively little 
trouble if the branches are kept thinned, cross shoots being cut out 
entirely, or shortened to form spurs. The trees may now be examined 
with a view to regulating the growth as well as improving the general 
symmetry of the trees. Shorten the longest shoots produced during the 
current year to half their length, chiefly those which have grown longer 
than 2 feet. Side shoots extending cut back to five or six good leaves, 
to be further shortened in the winter to one or two buds. Should there be 
any excess of side shoots cut some out entirely, preferably those growing 
inward. There are many advantages in autumn pruning. The foliage 
being present on the trees acts as a guide in thinning sufficiently, thus 
abundance of air and light are admitted, and the sap is directed to the 
perfecting of the remaining wood. These are important factors in 
securing promising fruit buds, strengthening weakly ones, and 
encouraging the formation of others now latent in the axils of the 
leaves. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Fines. —Young Pine plants always present a luxuriant appearance 
at this season where the cultural conditions are favourable. Greater 
care is now necessary in the management to prevent the foliage becom¬ 
ing soft and drawn, as the sun’s heat is waning, and air cannot be so 
freely admitted without having recourse to artificial heat. This is 
absolutely essential in the case of plants in a luxuriant condition, which 
should have air at 80°, above which ventilate liberally, especially on 
warm sunny days, with a view to consolidating the growth, and close 
the house for the day at 80°. The bottom heat being kept steady at 
85°, or between 80° and 90°, the plants will not suffer any check, 
provided the ventilation be judicious and the treatment liberal and 
proper in other respects. The night temperature should be maintained 
at 65°, and 70° to 75° secured by artificial means in the daytime, effect¬ 
ing a change of air daily, even in dull weather, by a little top ventila¬ 
tion. Syringing will only be needed occasionally, and it should be done 
on the afternoon of bright days. Water must be given when absolutely 
necessary, then afford an abundant supply of weak liquid manure in a 
tepid state. 
Fruiting Plants .—It is desirable to bring these together in a struc¬ 
ture where they will have suitable conditions for finishing the fruits. 
Preparation for starting plants into fruit early in the year should now 
be made. This consists in selecting plants from those which were 
started last spring and have completed a good growth, making choice of 
the most promising, and arranging them not later than the end of this 
month where they can rest for six weeks. Plants with the fruit swell¬ 
ing should be encouraged with liberal heat and moisture, keeping the 
night temperature at from 70° to 75°, and that in the daytime from 80° 
to 90°, closing the house at 85° with sun heat. 
Peacbes and Nectarines. —Earliest Forced Houses .—The leaves 
being off, or nearly so, complete rest should be aimed at by keeping the 
ventilators open constantly, and if the roof-lights be moveable they 
may be withdrawn for a time. This prevents undue excitement of the 
buds, and has an invigorating tendency, as the trees get thoroughly 
cleansed of dirt, red spider, and thrips, and frosts prove destructive of 
brown scale, while the borders become thoroughly moistened by the 
autumn rains. If the roof-lights cannot be removed see that there is 
no deficiency of water at the roots of the trees, for though the impres¬ 
sion prevails that dryness at the roots accelerates ripening of the wood 
it is fatal to the proper formation of the bads, and often gives a check 
causing them to fall later on. The soil should never be allowed to 
become dry at any time, but a much lessened supply of water will suffice 
when at rest than during growth. When the leaves have fallen the trees 
may be pruned. Only the strong growths that have not the points well 
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