Septcmbir 13 159(. 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
259 
matured need be cut back. In all cases be careful to shorten to a wood 
bud, not being deceived by a double or triple bud, as these are all some¬ 
times blossom buds, especially on trees of a floriferous habit induced 
through a somewhat stunted growth. Where ordinary attention has 
been given to disbudding, laying in no more wood than is necessary for 
the succeeding year’s fruiting and for the extension of the trees, also 
removing fruited and other unnecessary parts after the fruit was 
gathered, very little pruning will be required. Thoroughly c’eanse the 
house, and if the trees have been infested with red spider or other insect 
pests dress them wdth an insecticide, as many, especially red spider, will 
secrete in the rough portions of the bark and in the woodwork, applying 
the dressings with a brush. If the trees have been badly infested repeat 
the application before they are secured to the trellis. Remove the 
mulching or loose surface soil, and supply fresh loam, having a handful 
of some approved fertiliser sprinkled over each square yard of surface. 
This will be washed in either by rains or watering, and sustain the trees 
-at blossoming time and the early stages of the fruit swelling. Partial 
lifting of weakly trees will be necessary, and should be done before the 
leaves have fallen. In the case of trees that do not ripen the wood well 
the roots should he carefully lifted and relaid in fresh soil near the sur¬ 
face. IE the drainage be defective it should be rectified, and where the 
trees are altogether unsatisfactory lift bodily and replant in properly 
prepared borders. 
Successiunal Forced Houses —In those where the crops were ripened 
in June the leaves will soon be cast, and the trees and houses should be 
treated similarly to those earliest forced. Trees that ripened their crops 
in July and August will now have the buds plumped, and the wood 
being ripe the roof lights may, if moveable, be removed as soon as the 
leaves give indications of falling, or towards the close of the month. If 
the wood does not ripen well keep the house rather close by day when 
there is sun, and open the ventilators fully at night. Any weakly trees 
that do not plump the buds may be assis'ed with liquid manure. Trees 
from which the fruit has recently been gathered should not be 
neglected for removing the ’oearing wood of the current season, 
ventilating freely, watering inside borders, also outs.de ones as may be 
necessary, and occasionally syringing the trees and applying an insecti¬ 
cide, as insects must not be allowed to obtain and retain a hold on the 
trees. 
Late Houses .—Trees swelling their fruit will need the borders moist 
and mulched, and those with the roots in outside borders must not be 
neglected if dry weather prevail, and if carrying heavy crops liquid 
manure may be given until the fruit commences to soften. When all 
the fruit has been gathered remove the shoots, not being extensions, that 
have carried the crop, and if the wood is not in a satisfactory condition 
^l3 to ripening gentle fire heat with a circulation of air will be advisable, 
especially in the case of late varieties. The midseason kinds will ripen 
the wood if the autumn be favourab'e, but if wet and cold the trees are 
benefited by gentle warmth and a free circulation of air. This is 
necessary in cold localities, especially with the very late varieties. 
Cucumbers. —The temperature should be maintained at 65° by 
night and 70° to 75° by day, with a rise of 10° to 15° from sun heat. 
Remove unhealthy leaves and old growths, and training the others as 
may be necessary. Employ the syringe sparingly, only damping the 
foliage on bright da 3 s, so that it may become dry before night. 
Damping will require to be done in the morning, and again in the 
■evening. Pot seedlings as they become fit, and keep them near the 
glass to insure sturdy growth, pinching out the growing point of those 
required for covering low trellises at the second rough leaf ; others 
train with a single stem, securing to a small stick, rubbing ofif the 
laterals to the extent of the stem required to reach the trellis. Be 
sparing with moisture to plants in pits and frames, maintaining the 
temperature by linings renovated as required, closing early, and employ¬ 
ing a covering of mats over the lights on cold nights. 
Strawberries In Pots.— The plants are making good progress, the 
earliest having the crownssufnci-ntly plumped for the detection of those 
that will not be available for early forcing. These for this purpose 
should be separated from the rest and given sufficient space for the foliage 
in the most favourable pojition—a sunny sheltered one —for maturing 
the growths. The o'hers also must have the pots wide enough apart to 
allow of the sun and air having free access to the foliage. The croons 
in some cases are numerous, and should be reduced to the central one 
where large fruits are desired, not deferring it until they have attained 
to a considerable size, but be attended to as soon as they can be detected 
and removed sideways with a bbuntly pointed piece of hardwood stick. 
This will concentrate the vigour in the main crown, those will afford 
strong flower spikes, and then by selecting the largest and best formed 
flowers, and carefully fertilising them at the proper time, a crop of large 
shapely fruits will be insured. Any late runners may yet be potted, 
and with good attention they will be serviceable for late work in 5-inch 
pots, and may afford fine fruit and collectively as full a crop as those in 
larger pots. Worms and weeds are troublesome, also runners. Lime 
water will expel worms, and weeds and runners can be promptly 
removed. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Zonal Pelorgonlums.— Plants that have been standing outside 
may for early autumn flowering be placed in a light airy house. Give 
the plants full ventilation at first, and be careful not to overwater them, 
or they will make soft growth and fail to flower satisfactorily. The 
pots will be full of roots, and chemical manuie may be applied to the 
•surface of the soil occasionally, or weak liquid manure may be given 
each time the plants need water. The remainder of the stock for later 
flowering miy, if the weather prove fine, still be left outside. If very 
showery weather ensues the plants will be better in cold frames, where 
they can be protected. The lights should be thrown off whenever the 
weather is fine. 
Ivy-leaf Varieties. —Well established plants of these that have 
been outside during the summer months should be secured to upright 
stakes, and the plants housed any time during the month. At first cool, 
airy treatment should be given, but the position they occupy must be 
such that the temperature at night can be maintained at 55° to 60°. In 
a light house where warmth can be given them they will grow and 
flower for a long time. The flowers are delicate and yet showy, and 
will be found invaluable during the dull dark days of the autumn and 
early winter. 
French and Fancy Varieties. —Put all cuttings that are rooted 
in 2i-inch pots, and place them on a shelf in the greenhouse where they 
can be kept perfectly cool. Well established plants in small pots may 
have their shoots pinched, and as soon as they display signs of starting 
i ito growth the plants should be placed in 5-inch pots. These may be 
stood on the shelf of a cool house, where they will enjoy full light and 
abundance of air. For early flowering these plants must not be pinched 
again. Plants that have been cut back and have broken into growth 
may have the old soil shaken from their roots, and be repotted with 
fresh soil in smaller pots. After potting the plants should be placed in 
a frame and lightly syringed until they commence growth and root 
action. Water must be applied to the roots with care until they are 
rooting freely. These plants do well in fibrous loam, a little leaf mould, 
sand, and one-seventh of decayed manure. When placing the plants 
in their flowering pots leaf mould should not be used, and the soil must 
be pre-ssed firmly in the pots. 
Heliotropes. —It is not safe to leave these outside after this date, 
for one sligho frost will ruin them, or they may be seriously checked by 
the temperature falling low at night. Place the plants at once in 
frames where they can be protected at night. Daring fine warm days 
the lights may be thrown off until the end of the month, when they can 
be removed to the position they are intended to flower in. A similar 
temperature to that advised for Zrnal and Ivy-leaved Pelargoniums 
will suit them. The object is to keep the plants growing, and they will 
not fail to flower. 
Fucbslas. —As these go out of flower the plants may be stood 
outside fully exposed to the sun to ripen and harden their wood. They 
will do in this position until the approach of frost, when they may be 
stored in a shed or other convenient place. During spells of very wet 
w'eather the pots may be laid on their sides. 
Solanums.— Plants that are well berried and have been planted 
out may be lilted and placed in suitable pots. With care they w'ill lift 
with fair balls, which may be reduced to suit the pots. Care is needed 
not to destroy the fibrous roots of the plants. After potting give the 
plants a thorough soaking, and stand them behind a north wnll for about 
ten days, when they will have commenced root action, and can be stood 
in an open position, ready for placing in a frame or the greenhouse at 
any time. Plants that are setting berries freely should be left for a few 
weeks longer before they are lifted. Salvias, Eupatoriums, and other 
plants of a like nature may be lifted and treated in a similar way to 
Solanumi. 
Cinerarias. —The earliest plants will be well established in their 
flowering pots, and have commenced to show flower stems. These plants 
should not be crowded, and the foliage must be kept free from aphides by 
slight fumigations of tobacco smoke. Give the plants clear soot water 
each time ttey need watering. This is a quick stimulant, and imparts 
to the foliage a dark healthy appearance. Pot all later plants as they 
need more root room. Never allow young plants to become root-bound 
before they are potted, as if once checked by this cause they seldom do 
well afterwards. Plants growing in boxes for late spring flowering may 
be placed in 2j-inch pots. Late Cinerarias often prove extremely useful 
when the maj oity of bulbous plants are past their best. 
Calceolarias. —Place the earliest plants that have been growing 
in boxes in 4-inch pais in a compost of two parts loam to one of leaf 
mould, a little coarse sand and one-seventh of decayed manure, and 
grow them in a frame shaded from the sun. Smaller plants that have 
been pricked into pans may be transplanted into boxes 2 to 3 inches 
apart, until they are large enough for the size pots given above. Be 
careful not to allow these plants to become dry, and keep the material 
on which they stand moist. 
APIARIAN NOTES. 
At the Moors. 
September opened in a most promising manner, but to the 
surprise of everyone, shortly after midday rain fell heavily over a 
wide district. Everywhere farmers were “caught” with their 
hay. On that day my test hive gained 6 lbs. of honey. The 
2nd and 3rd were also promising, but the long absence of sunshine 
so cooled the ground and the atmosphere that, although the bees 
appeared busy, 1 lb. only was gathered on the 2nd of the month, 
