282 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
September 20 
Cocker & Sons, Aberdeen, attracted much attention. Messrs. Cunning¬ 
ham, Fraser & Co., Edinburgh, staged a collection of hardy flowers. From 
Mr. Eckford, VVem, came an extensive collection of cut Sweet Peas. 
Messrs. Laing & Mather, Kelso, had a tastefully arranged stand of border 
and Malmaison Carnations. Mr. Campbell, Blantyre, with other flowers, 
staged a large assortment of Carnations and Picotees in their various 
sections. Mr, Forbes, Hawick, also showed Carnations and Picotees. 
From Messrs. Dobbie (fe Co., Kothesay, came single and double Cactus 
Dahlias, splendid Marigolds and Sweet Peas. Mr. Downie, 
Edinburgh, staged a table of Begonias. Messrs. Thynne and 
Co., Glasgow, had an effective table mostly of grandly coloured 
Crotons. Messrs. T. Methven & Sons, Edinburgh, had two 
tables of plants, the one solely Begonias, the other stove and 
greenhouse plants, but mainly Liliums. Messrs. Dickson & Co., 
Waterloo Place, had a large display of Apples, tufted Pansies, and 
Carnations. Other exhibits were staged by Messrs. Stuart & Mein, 
Kelso; Messrs. Fell, Hexham ; Mr. D. W. Thomson, Edinburgh ; and 
Messrs. R. Laird & Sons, Pinkhill. The show was attended hy many 
thousands of visitors on the two days it was open, the weather having 
been perfect. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Vines. — Midseason Houses. —Where the Grapes are still hanging 
careful attention must be given to the ventilation, a little air being 
admitted constantly, and in cold damp weather a gentle warmth in the 
hot-water pipes, so as to insure a circulation, or prevent the atmosphere 
becoming stagnant and moisture being deposited on the berries. When 
the atmosphere is properly aerified Grapes will become raisins before 
they will decay, provided care be taken to promptly remove any berries 
that show indications of decomposition. A moderately moist condition 
at the roots is necessary to preserve the plumpness of the berries, and 
will not do any harm while the Vines have leaves in a more or less active 
state. Laterals should be kept well in hand^ and even reduced when 
growth ceases. Vines from which the Grapes have been cut may now 
be divested of their laterals down to the principal buds, even shortening 
the bearing shoots to a joint or two above the pruning buds, which will 
tend to plump the basal ones, and the storing of nutrient matter in the 
adjacent wood. To effect this the old leaves must not be injured, as 
upon their preservation depends the maturation of the buds and the 
ripening of the wood. A free circulation of air is necessary, and in the 
case of young Vines, or where there is the least doubt about the thorough 
ripening of the growths, fire heat will be necessary. When indications 
of the maturing of the foliage is manifest top-dressing is best effected, 
or even earlier when the Vines are weak and unsatisfactory. If the 
roots are active at the surface, in the old mulching or top-dressing, it will 
only be necessary to remove the loose material and give a top-dressing of 
turfy loam with a sixth of sweetened manure and a sprinkling of bone- 
meal two parts, and one part sulphate of potash, mixed, and about 4 ozs. 
per square yard, or the advertised fertilisers will answer a similar 
purpose, that of supplying phosphatic and potassic matter to the soil. 
If the roots have not penetrated the mulching, remove the soil down to 
them and supply fresh compost, but not covering them deeply; 2 or 
3 inches is sufficient, taking the opportunity to lift any that are deep 
and lay them in fresh material nearer the surface. A moderate water¬ 
ing will be needed in the case of inside borders, but outside ones will 
rarely need it at this season, and after they have had the benefit of the 
October rains a covering of leaves and a little litter over them will be 
all that is needed to exclude frost, which is important for Vines started 
while severe weather prevails. In the case of borders only partly made, 
a breadth of 2 feet may be added to the front, choosing dry weather for 
the operation and putting the materials together firmly. 
Houses of Ripe Grapes. —Hamburghs and all thin-skinned varieties 
of Grapes require frequent examination for the removal of decayed 
berries. Damp being their greatest enemy it should be prevented by a 
circulation of air constantly, the employment of tire heat in the day¬ 
time, accompanied by free ventilation, allowing the house to cool before 
night, and admitting air the following morning sufficiently early to 
allow the atmosphere to heat gradually, as this being warmer than that 
of the berries moisture will be deposited upon them. 
Late Muscats. —Where these are not thoroughly ripe a rather warm 
atmosphere by day with a free circulation of air, and enough at night 
to prevent the deposition of moisture on the berries, will be needed some 
time longer ; indeed, it should be continued until the Grapes are finished, 
when a gradual reduction of temperature must take place, about 60° 
from artificial means being necessary for Muscats after they are matured. 
Moisture must be kept down by a bracing atmosphere, a pent up air 
with a sudden increase of temperature from sun being sure to induce 
moisture to condense on the berries, which will cause them to spot, and 
then the Grapes will speedily decay. A little clean dry straw or matting 
spread on the inside border is useful in preventing moisture rising. 
Late //owsd’5.—The Grapes in these will now have finished, but it is 
well to make sure that such is the case quite up to the shank of ihe 
berries before ceasing the needful aid from lire heat. All late i hick¬ 
skinned Grapes require a long time to mature after being apparently 
ripe, consequently a temperature of 55° should be allowed, with a rise 
5° to 10° by day, and a circulation of air until the foliage is giving 
indications of falling, when a temperature of 50° will be sufficient. The 
inside border must not be allowed to become too dry. If necessary 
water in the early part of a fine day, and cover with a dry mulch as a 
safeguard against damp and a repetition of the watering. Outside 
borders will be quite damp enough from the recent rains, and should be 
covered with lightr preftrably, or some other means emp’ojei to throw 
off heavy soaking rains. Where the Grapes are not finished they may 
be treated similarly to late Hamburghs. 
Late Hamiurglis. —These finish and colour when it is hope’ess to do 
anything more with the thick-skinned varieties, but they are best 
finished as soon after this as possible. Where not ripe they should have 
a temperature of 60° to 65° at night, and 70° to 75° in the daj time, 
with a circulation of air constantly, not allowing the border to become 
dry, but giving a gcod watering if they are only paitidily advanced in 
colouring, and mulch with short dry material. Only restrict the laterals 
to prevent overcrowding, but after the Grapes are finished avoid further 
extension, yet not reducing the foliage too much, as this assists Ham¬ 
burghs to krep their colour. 
Young Vines. —Those planted this spring or early in the summer 
will need every erreouragement in keeping the foliage clean and healthy, 
also keep the laterals away from the principal leaves in order that they 
may have due exposure to light and air, especially those a'’, tl e base of 
the canes, so that the btrds to wh'ch the Vines are to be prumd may be 
thoroughly matured and the wood well ripened. In order to insure the 
ripening of the wood maintain a genial w'armth by cay with moderate 
ventilation, and throw the hou.se open at night, cxc pt whtn fross 
prevails. 
Fig’S. — Trees for Early Forcing. —These will now have the growth 
sufficiently matured to allow interference with the roots, which should 
he examined, and if it not advisable to increase the pot room rtmove a 
few inches of soil from the base of the ball, cutting b. ck the roots, and 
give fresh fibrous loam, adding about a sixth of old mertar rubbish 
and a sprinkling of orushed bones, good drainage beirg provided. 
Remove also the loose suiface soil, and use the coa post nr med above 
in its stead, adding a fourth of well-decayed manure, iiff jrd a moderate 
watering, and place the trees where they can have abundance of air, with 
shelter from heavy rains and frost. When the leaves have fallen wash 
the trees with a solution of softsoap, 3 ozs. to a gallon of water, with 
enough sulphur previously moistened in skim milk to form a cream, 
and apply with a rather stiff brush, being careful not to damage the 
points of the shoots nor the embryonic Figs. 
Planted-out Fig Tries. —These started about the new y ar should be 
kept drier at ihe roots, but avoid extreme dryness, a drier condition of 
the atmosphere also tending to promote the perfecting of the growths. 
Air should be freely admitted, and any pruning required is best per¬ 
formed whilst the leaves are upon the trees, as this affords the best guide 
in thinning, so as to allow space for the successional growths of the 
coming year. As soon as the second crop Figs are gathered in the later 
houses the trees must be kept drier at the roots, and the house weU 
ventilated in favourable weather. Any root-pruning or partial lifting 
should be performed when the leaves show indications of falling. This 
is very effectual in checking the exuberance of unfruitful trees, and by 
restricting the roots to a narrow and rather shallow border of firm 
material over efficient drainage healthier and more fruitful growth 
follows. 
THE FLOWER GARDEN. 
Antirrhinums. —Those who have a few or many plants of self- 
coloured varieties of a moderately compact habit of growth should 
increase the stock of these by means of cuttings, with a view to bedding 
them out next season. Good white, yellow, and crimson forms can now 
be had, which are admirably adapted for the flower beds, as they com¬ 
mence flowering early in the season ; and if the old flower spikes are 
kept closely cut off, the plants will continue to produce flowers freely 
till severe frosts intervene. They succeed well during a dry as well as 
during a wet season, and for massing in medium sized to large beds are 
most valuable. Antirrhinums can easily be raised from seed, but the 
colours cannot be prevented from mixing unless the seed-bearing plants 
are kept very widely apart. Cuttings root as readily as Calceolarias, 
no heat whatever being required, while the plants are still hardier and 
never damp off during the winter. If flowerless shoots, suitable for 
making into cuttings, are scarce place four or six of them in each 4-inch 
pot and stand in frames, or they may be dibbled out in hand-lights and 
light sandy soil. When hundreds of cuttings are available treat them 
similarly to Calceolaria cuttings. 
Pentstemons. —Some of these are well adapted for bedding out, and 
are particularly effective when massed in the centre of large beds with 
tall fine-foliaged plants among them. The varieties ought to be kept 
separate, as being better in every way than mixing. Of these, again, 
it may be said that they root quite as surely and easily as Calceolarias, 
and they are also hardier. A good stock of plants would be handy for 
long mixed flower borders as w'ell as the beds. 
Calceolarias. —Towards the end of September Calceolaria cuttings 
are generally abundant and sufficiently firm for propagating purposes. 
That is also a good time to put in cuttings, as they are liable to damp 
off if slightly damaged by frosts. No heat whatever is required or 
should be given. A frame in a sheltered placi may well be raised on 
WO^foktheWEEK.. 
