September 27, 1894. 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
289 
the terrible ravages that some of these diseases are capable of 
working on a number of plants. 
Those who have been growing Carnations for years outside do 
not, as a rule, fail through over-manuring the soil in which they 
grow their plants. Beginners might fail from such causes, but 
not frequently old hands. We have carefully noted that the 
“ spot” to which attention was previously called, and which proves 
80 ruinous to the plants, is produced freely on plants growing in 
poor soil. It may be said in this case that the plants are pre¬ 
disposed to disease through the poverty of the soil. We tried to 
come to this conclusion years ago, but were compelled to alter the 
decision, because plants growing in what we should term rich soil 
were equally as badly attacked if not worse. We have also tried 
them in soil of an intermediate nature, neither poor nor rich, with 
no better results. How is this ? 
Our practice has been to layer healthy clean plants to all 
appearance towards the close of July or during the early part of 
the following month. When well rooted they are placed in 3 and 
4-inch pots, according to their size, then stood outside until the 
approach of frost. By this time the plants are well established, 
the roots have frequently reached the sides of the pots. The 
plants are then wintered in cold frames, either plunged in or stood 
on ashes. The former is preferred, because the plants require less 
care in watering. The frames are liberally ventilated, the plants 
carefully watered, and ought to pass the winter in good condition, 
and be ready for planting out in a clean healthy robust state in the 
spring. But this is by no means always the case ; some are all 
that could be desired, others are the reverse. 
We pot border varieties firmly, and for years have found no 
compost more suitable for them than old potting soil, or what may 
be termed refuse from the potting shed. The soil, of course, 
varies very much in nature ; sometimes it is much heavier than at 
others, then leaf mould is mixed with it ; when very light we add 
a few barrowsful of turfy Icam. The plants that have remained 
free from disease have always done well in such composts as we 
have invariably used. The source of the disease must be traced to 
some other cause than the soil in which the plants are potted. We 
do not doubt that there is a cause, and we want if we can to trace 
these diseases to the sources from which they arise, and then 
remedy might not be so difficult as we may now suppose. The 
object we have in view is rather to prevent the appearance of the 
disease than spend our efforts in combating it after it has attacked 
the plants. 
On the selection, especially in some localities, of the bed or 
border in which these plants are to be planted depends in no 
small degree whether successful results or the reverse are to 
follow. We have found that a piece of ground in good heart 
that would grow a crop of vegetables will not always grow 
Carnations well. Very often, even if the soil is good but subject 
to wire worm, the plants go off wholesale. Probably this is the 
worst enemy the Carnation has to contend against. If we are to 
grow Carnations where this pest is troublesome the ground to be 
occupied by them should be turned up roughly in the early autumn 
and fully exposed to the frosts and thaws of the winter. Even if 
they are grown in the same bed or border year after year, we have 
found them do well enough on this principle. The best method of 
dealing with wireworm is to dig early and trap them with portions 
of Potato in the old-fashioned way with a peg attached to them. 
Beds and borders can be cleared of them in this simple way. 
Particular attention is needed in this respect early in the season, 
and when the plants are first put out. 
Last winter we grubbed up some old Red Currant trees that 
had been growing on the ground for probably forty years, 
and the soil was extremely poor and dry. A bed was formed 
100 feet in length and 4 feet wide. The soil was dug up roughly 
after the trees were removed in the autumn, and just prior to 
planting in the spring about four barrowfuls of turfy loam was 
spread on, the same amount of old potting soil and Mushroom bed 
refuse, and about two 10-inch pots full of chemical manure in 
which bones, horn shavings, and sulphate of ammonia formed parts. 
The border was planted with Mrs. Reynolds Hole Carnation that 
had passed the winter free from disease. The plants grew with 
remarkable vigour from the first, and are free from disease now, 
while two or three stray plants of other kinds that had by accident 
got amongst them have displayed traces of disease all the season. 
The whole bed of Mrs. Reynolds Hole is remarkable for strength, 
and the first flowers are almost as large as “ Malmaisons.” We had 
no idea they would have attained such a large size. Four-feet stakes 
were used, and these were no use whatever to the plants, they 
should have been at least a foot higher. So far Queen of Bedders 
has shown no signs of disease, it is a good dwarf Carnation and 
well worth growing—strong in habit, and a most prolific bloomer. 
We fear a dark form that we have been growing will have to be 
dispensed with. It (Marquis of Lome) is a good grower, fairly 
sweet, does not break the calyx seriously, and almost rivals Uriah 
Pike. The old common white garden Pink, and Mrs. Sinkins, 
have been badly diseased throughout the season, especially those 
growing freely exposed to the sun. 
It is too early to boast, but after the visit to Rangemore we 
changed the position of our “ Malmaisons ” and have not syringed 
them since, and they have every appearance of overcoming the 
disease that troubled them so much early in the season.— 
Wm. Bardney. 
CALOCHORTUS PLUMMERS. 
Blooms of this beautiful Calochortus were exhibited by Messrs. 
R. Wallace & Co., Colchester, at the Drill Hall, Westminster, on 
July 24th. As will be seen by referring to the illustration (fig. 42) 
the flowers are large and handsome, being purplish mauve or lavender 
shade, and the inner portion studded with yellow hair-like appendages. 
It is undoubtedly one of the flnest species in cultivation, and appears to 
be strong-growing and profuse in blooming. A flrst-class certificate was 
awarded for this species on the above-mentioned occasion. 
THINNING PEACH SHOOTS. 
The glorious sunshine of the last two weeks has gladdened the 
hearts of both farmers and gardeners. The farmer has been able, 
in many districts, to complete the ingathering of the harvest, and 
the latter has had the satisfaction of noting fruits, plants, and 
crops advancing with leaps and bounds toward maturity. fcv^irciil 
On nothing has the effect of this welcome change in t the 
weather been more marked than the wood of fruit trees generally, 
and Peach trees particularly. Shoots which, a few weeks ago, 
