290 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
September 27,1894. 
looked green and gross, are now fast changing to a reddish brown 
colour, which is a sure indication that the ripening process is going 
on satisfactorily ; but in order that this should be thoroughly 
completed before the fall of the leaves it is necessary for the 
cultivator to do all in his power to fully expose every particle of 
wood required for the production of next year’s crop. With this 
object in view Peach and Nectarine trees from which the fruit has 
been gathered, should be pruned at once. 
When the trees have covered their allotted space, the majority 
of the shoots which bore this year’s crop will require removal, 
leaving the young shoots at the base to supply next year’s fruiting 
wood, and the requisite number of shoots to succeed them. This 
thinning ought to be done more freely than usual this year, as the 
shoots have grown exceptionally strong ; and unless these are 
thoroughly exposed they will fail to set their flowers, although 
they may produce them freely enough. Bud-dropping may also 
frequently be attributed to unripened as well as to over-ripened 
wood, and those cultivators who pay due attention to the 
autumn thinning of Peach shoots and give good culture in other 
respects seldom fail to secure even crops of fruit let the season be 
what it may. However much may be written in disparagement of 
“ripened wood,” I venture to predict it will be a long time before 
practical cultivators cease to put their faith in it, for they know full 
well that when the ripeness or maturity is not secured, the best or 
even good results cannot follow. Neither can they when premature 
wood-ripening is brought about by unhealthy insect-infested leaves. 
—Pomona. 
Cattleya Velutina. 
The origin of this beautiful Cattleya is doubtful, many sup¬ 
posing it to be a natural hybrid between some form of C. guttata 
and C. bicolor. It is, however, quite distinct from either, and a 
charming kind. The sepals and petals are orange yellow with 
purple blotches, the lip white stained with yellow, and having lines 
of purple from the centre outwards. The pseudo-bulbs are about 
1 foot high, slender, and have a pair of stout deep green leaves. 
It appears to enjoy more heat than most Cattleyas, and is easily 
grown in well drained pots in the usual mixture of peat and 
sphagnum. The flowers, which are produced in the autumn, are 
each 4 inches across and very fragrant. 
La;lia crispa. 
This is one of the oldest Lselias in cultivation, a beautiful 
species, and the seed-bearing parent of many fine hybrids. It is 
easily grown in the Cattleya house, and may bo treated like 
C. Trianae. The lower spikes are produced from the top of the 
pseudo-bulbs, and bear about five flowers each 4J inches across. 
The sepals and petals are white, the latter broad with wavy, 
crimpled edges. The lip is white, with a purple blotch in the 
throat, the side lobes are stained with yellow, and the front lobe, 
which is pointed, rosy purple, has darker lines leading to the 
column. It is a vigorous growing and free flowering Orchid. 
The pseudo-bulbs are about 8 inches high, bearing a single, large, 
leathery leaf. This species is also known as Cattleya crispa. 
Dendrobium curysanthum. 
Although not of a lasting character, the flowers of this fine old 
species are very welcome at this season by reason of their bright 
golden colouring and delicate fragrance. These occur in small 
panicles along the newly formed growths, from fifty to sixty being 
frequently produced on a single pseudo-bulb. These latter on 
strong plants attain a length of 5 feet, and grow erect until the 
increasing weight causes them to assume a more or less pendulous 
habit. They should be allowed to grow naturally, as they have 
thus a far more graceful appearance than when supported by 
tying ; the flowers also show to greater advantage. The culture of 
D. chrysanthum differs somewhat to that of the majority of the 
genus, as it is usually growing through the winter months, indeed 
it can never be said to rest, as before the flowers are past it usually 
commences to grow from the base of the flowering pseudo-bulbs. 
Teak wood baskets are the best receptacles for the plants, and 
from the early spring until they flower a sunny position in a brisk 
heat, with abundance of moisture, will suit them admirably. After 
the flowers are over very little water is required until the young 
growths commence to emit roots, when the plants must be surface- 
dressed or rebasketed if necessary and grown without a check. 
The blossoms appear while the leaves are still on the plants, but 
these usually fall before the flowers open. Good peat, sphagnum, 
and charcoal used in a rough open condition is the best compost 
for this species, and being a strong rooted kind the baskets may 
be comparatively large if good drainage is provided. 
Oncidium Forbesi. 
This is a rather variable species, and in its best forms, as 
grandiflorum, it is a very superior Orchid. This variety produces 
spikes from 18 inches to 2 feet in length, branched and bearing a 
great many flowers. These are 24 inches across, of a pleasing 
shade of reddish brown, with a narrow, bright yellow wavy 
margin. The crest on the labellum is yellow with red spots, and 
the whole flower has a glossy varnished appearance. In habit it 
somewhat resembles O. crispum, but the pseudo-bulbs are more 
clustered and not quite so bronzy in appearance. O. Forbesi 
thrives best in a warm greenhouse temperature, or rather cooler 
than the Cattleya house, if such an one is at command. Our 
plants are grown close to the door on the side stage of the 
Cattleya house, and are given all the air possible. The plants are 
repotted in the spring in shallow pans or well-drained pots, in a 
compost consisting of equal parts peat and sphagnum, with a little 
charcoal. This is pressed very firmly round the plants, and very 
little water is given until they show signs of new growth, only 
enough, in fact, to keep the sphagnum alive. When rooting freely 
they receive more, but are allowed an occasional drying even 
when in full growth. Soon after the pseudo-bulbs are fully 
matured the flower spikes appear. These last a long time in 
perfection, and after they fade the plants must be kept drier. A 
long rest is a very important point in the culture of this Oncidium, 
and although I am not an advocate of overdrying Orchids, I like to 
see O. Forbesi shrivel a little during the winter. This species 
was introduced from Brazil over fifty years ago, but has never 
become very common in collections.—H. R. R. 
Masdevallia octhodes. 
I WOULD feel much obliged if you would kindly answer the 
following questions ;—1, What are the form and colour of Masde¬ 
vallia octhodes? What treatment suits it best? Are there various 
varieties of this plant ? If so, which is the best ?— The Boy. 
[This Colombian species is one of the small flowered kinds, and 
is not very attractive in colouring, being of a dull shade of yellow. 
In form it is very grotesque. The upper sepal is erect and con¬ 
cave at the base ; the lower sepals are united, and form a small 
boot-shaped cavity, almost hiding the small petaline segments from 
view. A cool moist house, such as suits the coolest section of 
Odontoglossums, is the best place to grow this plant. Abundance 
of air is needed all through the year, and during the winter the 
lightest available position should be afforded it. it must be grown 
in small pots or shallow pans in peat fibre, sphagnum, and charcoal, 
and repotted at least once in two years. Copious supplies of 
water are needed during the summer, but in the winter less is 
required, as, like all Masdevallias, the roots are apt to decay if 
kept loo moist. There are, as far as we know, no named varieties 
of this species.] 
CURRENT FRUIT TOPICS. 
Dwarf Trees. 
In the issue of September 20th there are several notes of much 
interest to fruit growers, particularly the excellent leading article 
by “ C.,” and as a fruit grower for market and home purposes I 
was pleased to see dwarf trees recommended. In former issues the 
immense advantages of bush trees over standards have been fully 
detailed, and I think it is only a question of time when all, or the 
major portion of fruit growers, will adopt the system. Another 
item mentioned by “ C.” is the value of planting fruit trees early. I 
have planted hundreds between the middle of October and the 
middle of November, which have scarcely missed their move, and 
have borne regularly the first and every year since planting. The 
advice on autumn pruning is of great importance. Judging 
from many years of experience I feel sure that not only would 
crops be more certain, as the trees and buds would be stronger, 
and insect pests less troublesome. This may be easily proved by 
pruning the trees as advised in the autumn, and leaving others 
until the new year. The result will show a most decided advan¬ 
tage in favour of the former. 
Fruit Crops.—East and West.—Colouring. 
On page 271 “Lincoln” writes on the inferior quality and 
bad colour of Apples in that county this year. In the West of 
