328 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
October 4,1894. 
the fruit is gathered and the wood suflSciently matured, to a sheltered, 
Bunny situation outdoors, and the house is then at liberty for growing 
Cucumbers, Melons, or Tomatoes, which from an investment point of 
view are quite as remunerative as the Cherries. On the planting-out 
system finer fruit is had, the growths being trained 9 to 12 inches from 
the glass, but it is necessary to have the roof-lights moveable, and the 
house can only be used for the Cherries. 
If it is intended to plant any trees it should be seen to as soon as the 
leaves commence falling. Cherries thrive best in calcareous soils, 
preferably rather strong for trees under glass, especially when the loam 
contains a free admixture of calcareous and flinty particles. Turfy 
loam, with a sixth of old mortar rubbish, and a similar proportion of road 
scrapings, will grow Cherries well. If the soil be light add a fourth of clay 
marl, dried and pounded fine. Provide a drain of 3 or 4-inch pipes, having 
due fall and sure outlet. There should also be 9 inches depth of brick¬ 
bats or rubble for drainage, the roughest at the bottom, with the material 
diminishing in size upwards to that of road metal, and on this place 
3 inches thickness of old mortar rubbish, being careful to have it free 
from pieces of wood. A depth of 24 inches of border is ample, and 6 feet 
width will meet the requirements of trees grown under glass. The 
compost should be placed together firmly. Early Rivers, Governor 
Wood, Black Tartarian, and Elton are excellent varieties, both for size 
and quality. The lights having been removed they need not be 
replaced for six or eight weeks, the old surfaee soil being removed 
without injury to the roots, and fresh compost supplied, that above 
named answering with the addition of a fourth of well-decayed 
manure. 
Trees in pots required to be shifted into larger sizes should be attended 
to at once, and those not needing such treatment may be turned out of 
the pots, removing a few inches of soil from the base, cutting back the 
roots, supplying fresh loam, adding old mortar rubbish if not calcareous, 
with a fourth of decayed manure, and providing good drainage. Remove 
the surface soil in other cases as well as the last named, and supply 
fresh loam duly enriched, making quite firm. Afford a good watering, and 
place the trees where they can have abundance of air. 
Vines. — Early Vines in Pots. —For affording ripe Grapes in late 
March or early in April, well-ripened canes from cut-backs started early 
in the year are most suitable. They should now be at rest, have had the 
laterals cut off close and the cane shortened to the length required, 
6 to 8 feet. The Vines do best in a lean-to or three-quarters span-roof 
house facing the south, and preferably with a pit along the front of 
3 or 4 feet depth for holding leaves, there being a pathway at the back, 
and a trellis for training the growths to at 1 foot distance from the glass. 
A good start is assured if bottom heat can be provided ; a bed of ferment¬ 
ing materials, two parts leaves and one part stable litter, affording a 
mild lasting heat. Place loose brick pillars, 9 inches square, about 
2^ feet apart for the pots to stand on, and so high that the rims of the 
latter are level with the top of the fermenting bed. The material must 
be brought up loosely about the pots in the first instance, and not have 
a temperature of more than 65° to 70° at the commencement. Vines 
that have been ripened early, pruned and had about six weeks’ rest may 
be started at once for supplying fresh ripe thin-skinned Grapes as early 
in the year as possible, which cannot well be effected before March, and 
to effect this the earliest varieties, as White Frontignan, Foster’s Seed¬ 
ling, Black Hamburgh and Madresfield Court, should be chosen. The 
temperature at starting must not exceed 55° by artificial means, but 
when the buds show signs of breaking it may gradually be increased to 
65°. The canes should be slung in a horizontal position, or lower at 
their extremities than the base, to induce them to push their buds evenly 
throughout the length of the canes, syringing them two or three times a 
day, also the paths and walls. Sufficient wafer must be given at the 
roots to keep the soil moderately moist while the Vines are inactive, 
and only evenly so after they start; but when in free growth they 
need liberal supplies of nourishing food in liquid form, preferably 
alternating with supplies of water. 
Early-forced Planted-out Vines. —These intended to be started early 
in December for supplying Grapes in late April or early in May should 
be pruned at once (if not already done) so as to allow them some weeks 
rest before starting. The Vines must be thoroughly cleansed by wash¬ 
ing with a tepid soapy solution, merely removing any loose and pro¬ 
jecting bark without interfering with the live wood or bark, as harbour 
of this kind is favourable to the hibernation of red spider, mealy bug, 
and thrips, following with an approved insecticide. Where the roots 
have the run of outside borders it will be advisable to prepare some 
fermenting material for placing on that part after the Vines are started, 
the border in the meantime being protected from heavy rains by spare 
lights. Two-thirds of Oak or Beech leaves to one of fresh stable litter 
thrown into a heap and turned over once or twice, moistening if necessary, 
will afford a durable heat and suitable source of nutrition. These 
materials will require renewal from time to time, and if this cannot be 
effected it is better to dispense with any at the beginning, only such 
protection of leaves and litter must be provided as to prevent the soil 
becoming frozen in the severest weather. Similar material may also be 
provided for placing inside the house, which will aid the Vines in 
starting through the uniform state of the moisture and heat, and lessen 
the necessity for fire heat. Thoroughly cleanse the house, everything 
being put into proper order, and keep as cool as possible consistent with 
the safety of the Vines. 
Late Houses. —Vines that were started in the early spring months, 
and forwarded by fire heat at that time and onwards till now, have 
crops of ripe well-coloured Grapes, which are Urger in the berry, and 
the quality, especially that of Muscats, singularly excellent—better than 
was the case last season with its drought and heat. Whether they will 
keep as well is another question, but the berries seem to have tough 
elastic skins, which auger well for their sound keeping. Liberal venti¬ 
lation will be required on all favourable occasions, and as the foliage 
is matured the temperature may be allowed to fall to a minimum of 
50°. New, sweet mats or a light covering of clean, dry straw placed 
on the inside border will prevent moisture rising or absorb much of it. 
The Grapes should be looked over twice a week for the removal of 
decayed berries, but if properly ripened, ventilation duly attended to, 
and the house drip-proof, they will give very little trouble. The outside 
border should be protected from heavy, cold rain, A supply of bracken 
ought to be cut where it grows abundantly for covering late house borders 
for the winter, a good covering of this material being quite equal if nob 
superior to litter as a protection, and not as likely to encourage vermin 
—mice and rats. Late Grapes not yet ripe must have fire heat briskly 
by day, with a free circulation of air, and the temperature not allowed 
to fall below 65° at night, and to assist the ripening of the wood keep 
the laterals closely stopped, with moderate moisture in the soil and a dry 
atmosphere. 
Materials for Forming Vine Borders. —This is a much better time to 
cut turf than after it has been soaked by the cold autumnal rains. It is 
a good plan to pare or plough it off, and leave for a few days, especially 
in the presence of clear days and frosty nights. This causes larvm to 
pass from the cut part into the soil beneath. The top 2^ inches or 
3 inches of a pasture where the soil is a good friable loam is suitable for 
Vines, and should form the staple of the compost. Place it in narrow 
ridges, sprinkling a mixture of kainit and Thomas’ phosphate powder 
in equal parts at the rate of 2 ounces per square yard of reversed turves 
as they are placed on the heap, and have the top ridged so as to throw 
off the wet. The lime of the phosphate powder will act favourably on 
the vegetable matter, and the kainit on destructive larvae, while afford¬ 
ing a supply of potash and magnesia, which are essential for Vines and 
never over-abundant in turf. Staeking in narrow ridges will aid 
nitrification as the formation of nitrates in the turf. Let the site bfr 
open and dry. 
IVlelons.—Cankered and cracked fruits are most frequent during 
damp weather, especially damp nights after bright days. The best 
practice is to keep both the soil and atmosphere dry, and for canker, 
fresh slaked lime well rubbed into the affected parts. Cease syringing- 
the foliage, and supply water at the roots to prevent flagging, but no 
more. Remove all superfluous growths. The late fruits are swelling 
and must be supported. Maintain a night temperature of 65°, and 
70° to 75° by day artificially, closing the house early in the afternoon, 
keeping through the day at 80° to 90° from sun heat. 
Plants in manure-heated pits and frames will not require any water 
after this time, a dry condition at the roots being necessary to accelerate 
the ripening process. Any fruits that have finished swelling, or plants 
that are dying, should be cut with a good portion of stem and placed in 
a dry warm house to ripen. If left in the frame they will probably 
decay, or acquire an unpleasant flavour. 
THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Open-air IMtushroom Beds. —Where the heavy rains have found 
their way into the beds something ought to be done towards making 
them drier for the future. Carefully remove all the cold wet litter 
now pressing against the soil, and re-cover with a 12-inch thickness of 
long litter fresh from the stables. Dispose this as much as possible in 
the form of a thatch, and if that will not keep out the rain or if winds 
blow it about cover with old carpets, stout canvas, or tarpaulins. These 
latter ought not to be needed, however, for some time longer. When 
newly spawned beds are heavily covered with strawy litter there is 
always a chance of their suddenly becoming dangerously hot, and the 
trial sticks kept plunged in them ought to be drawn out and tested 
frequently accordingly. Should they be found too hot lighten the 
covering at once, and also open a few holes down through the centre of the 
bed by means of a pointed iron rod. This will let out the vapour, 
which if confined might lead to the ruin of the bed. Ridge-shaped beds 
only fail to produce Mushrooms during the coldest weather, and there 
is no reason why more of them should not yet be formed. If they fail 
to produce crops before midwinter they may yet do well afterwards, 
always providing they are not unduly saturated by cold rain. Frosts 
will not injure them, as beds hard frozen through have been known to 
produce grand crops in the spring. At least one-third of the heap of the 
material used should consist of short stained straw. 
Mushrooms under Cover. —Where Mushroom houses proper are 
limited in extent the autumn and early winter crops ought to be largely 
obtained from beds formed in pits, frames, sheds, unoccupied stables, 
and other snug outhouses. Those sheltered, dark, thatched sheds, often 
used for storing Potatoes in, are excellent places for Mushroom culture, 
and if manure, properly prepared by fermenting and frequent turnings, 
is available they might yet be utilised. Having a comparatively dear- 
course in the Mushroom house admits of extra large beds, or several 
small ones in succession, being formed now, and from these a heavy crop 
of Mushrooms should be obtained, with the aid of a little fire heat 
during the coldest part of the winter. Much depends on the way in 
which the manure is prepared. It must be prevented becoming very 
wet or too dry. In the former case ward heavy rains off the heaps by 
