350 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
October 11,1894 
a collection of Apples and Pears, and a silver-gilt medal went to Mr. 
H. Berwick, Sidmouth, for a similar contribution. Mr. H. Deverill, 
Banbury, exhibited some mammoth Onions and Carrots, and a silver 
medal was awarded. Messrs, W. Edwards & Sons, Nottingham, had 
Edwardian decorations ; Messrs. Fenlon & Sons, heating apparatus ; 
Mr. C. Williams, Hammersmith, table decorations ; and Mr. Alfred 
Wyatt, Hatton, a collection of Apples and Pears. 
First-class certificates of merit were awarded for the following 
Chrysanthemums :—Duchess of York, a pale yellow Japanese, full and 
good size, with somewhat narrow florets; from Mr. Jas. Carruthers, 
Hillwood, Costorphine, Midlothian. Souvenir de Petite Amie, a large 
white Japanese, somewhat flat as shown, but decidedly promising ; from 
Mr. W. Wells, Barlswood. Mrs. E. G. Hill, a very flne and full delicate 
blush variety of great promise ; T. H. Dennis, bright chestnut crimson 
with golden reverse, an incurved variety, the florets becoming drooping 
with age ; Madame C. Molin, a large white Japanese of the style of 
Viviand Morel, from Mr. W. J. Godfrey, Exmouth. Mr. W. H. Lees, 
a large drooping Japanese, the centre sulphur and white, the basal 
florets delicate pink ; and for Commandant Blusset, a variety opening 
of a rich crimson tint, paling to magenta crimson with age, from 
Mr, E. Beckett, The Gardens, Aldenham House, Elstree. 
Plants of Nicotiana colossea variegata and N. affinis variegata, and 
Apple Dyke’s Seedling from Messrs. J. Laing & Sons, were highly com¬ 
mended. 
HAEDY FEUIT GARDEN. 
Gatherlngr Iiate Fruit. —The latest varieties of Plums ought now 
to be gathered, and frequent attention given to carefully gathering and 
storing late Pears and Apples. Those trees especially from which the 
fruit is falling should first be attended to, selecting fine dry weather. 
Storms of wind and rain soon bring down bushels of fruit at this season, 
therefore it is wise to gather frequently the choicest samples in order 
that their keeping qualities may not be impaired by bruising. 
Xalftlng: Youngr Fruit Trees. —When the opportunity presents 
itself, and the time can be given, the practice of lifting and replanting 
young fruit trees is one of the best methods of curbing a tendency to 
vigorous and late growth. If fairly well furnished with fibrous roots, 
lifting and replanting gives that mild kind of check which the trees 
need. It induces an increase of fibrous roots, promotes the formation of 
fruit buds, short-jointed growth, and surface-rooting. The operation 
must be done quickly, so as not to dry the roots by exposure to air. Any 
strong roots may be shortened well back or to branching fibres. Long 
bare roots cut smoothly across soon break forth again. If, after lifting 
and replanting, the trees flag in sunny weather, the foliage must be 
syringed, the soil about the roots kept moist, and a mulching given. 
Iiabelllng Fruit Trees. —The present season is an excellent time 
to attend to this wherever it is necessary. Seldom does such a good 
opportunity occur for comparing the various kinds, and fruit trees should 
always be labelled for convenience of gathering and storing, so that 
the whole of each kind may be placed together, and also to assure 
accuracy when propagating. One of the best kinds of labels is made 
of sheet lead cut into strips, and the name punched into it by means 
of moveable type. The end of this must be long enough to roll round 
one of the smaller branches of the trees. These are not liable to damage 
the trees in any way, and are almost indestructible, but are not so easily 
found as the ordinary wooden label, and the latter answer well where 
only small quantities are required if time can be found to renew them 
when necessary. Labels attached by wire to the trees are almost 
certain to be neglected and to cause injury. For wire trellises 
and walls those made of zinc and inscribed with indelible ink are very 
useful, as they can be fastened with wire without any fear of 
injuring the trees. 
Root Pruning-. —Old trees are not easily lifted, nor is it desirable, 
because the needful check may be given by root-pruning wholly or in 
part, that is, the roots outside a certain distance from the tree can be 
cut all round, or one side of the tree only treated in any given year. 
The system followed is to dig out a trench usually about 3 feet from the 
stem, and to sever all strong roots in the process, paring the ends smooth 
and clean. When this is done there still remains perhaps strong roots 
descending perpendicularly into the subsoil. It is these roots which 
need cutting most urgently, as they are usually the main cause of the 
permanently unfruitful character of many otherwise excellent trees. 
Frequently these roots are reached by simply undermining the main ball 
of roots, but a readier method consists in drawing a tree partially over, 
thus exposing the base of the ball of roots, and revealing the where¬ 
abouts of gross descending roots. It all depends on the severity of the 
operation whether the roots all round should be cut or only half way. 
The latter is the safest when many roots require shortening. It is better 
to do it tentatively than to run the risk of over-pruning, and jeopardise 
the existence of a valuable tree. The extremities of every shortened 
root must be smoothly cut so that every facility is given for the emission 
of rootlets. In filling the trench return the best of the soil removed. 
with a little fresh to improve it and favour rooting. Lay out the fibrous 
roots preserved in a horizontal direction as near the surface as possible, 
and firm the soil well about them. Finish with a light mulching of half- 
decayed manure. 
Spur and Brancb Pruning. — Pyramid and wall trees are 
frequently crowded both with branches and spurs, and may well be 
relieved so as to admit more light and air among them. It is advisable 
to do this now rather than wait for the leaves to fall, because the 
process can be so much more effectually carried out, owing to the 
guidance which the presence of the foliage gives in thinning sufficiently. 
Few pruners thin enough when operating only in winter, besides losing- 
the advantages of late autumn ripening influences. Wall, espalier, and 
pyramid Pears especially need opening out in this manner. A foot 
apart is as close as bunches can remain fruitful, and when freely clothed 
with spurs this distance may often be increased without detriment. 
Projecting spurs ought to be partially cut back, the aim being to secure 
fruitful buds closer to the branches. Frequent attention given ta 
thinning and shortening will, in the course of time, effect this. The 
main clusters of spurs ought to be so distributed that the hand may 
be easily placed between them. A crowd even of fruitful spurs can 
only give at the best a number of small fruits, and such growths rapidly 
weaken one another. 
Autumn Treatment of Peaches and M’ectarlnes. —All the 
fruit being gathered, cut out the current year’s bearing wood or any 
other superfluous shoots. The whole energies of the trees will then be 
diverted to the maturation of the remaining shoots which are intended 
for the future crop. A system of careful pruning carried out now 
insures more thorough and complete ripening. It favours the gradual 
building up of firmer and bolder buds than can be the case when the 
growth is crowded and the foliage prematurely ripens and falls early. 
The admission of light, air, and sunshine is imperatively necessary to 
convert the vigour present in the trees to good account. When each leaf 
has a full share its ability to manufacture food is increased and spread 
over a longer period, which is of immense benefit to the bud it serves. 
Fibrous roots also are of great assistance in wood-ripening, as the food 
they supply is invariably of high quality. They may, therefore, be 
encouraged in the autumn, as at other seasons, with the greatest possible 
benefit to all trees. To this end watering borders should be resorted to 
if the soil be dry. Impoverished soil over and around the roots may be 
replaced with fresh loam of a calcareous character and decayed manure 
to which about one-sixth of bone meal and wood ashes has been added, 
making it firm. 
Improving- Soils. —In addition to deep cultivation there are certain 
classes of soil which may be materially improved in their texture and 
suitability for fruit cultivation. Clayey soil, for instance, may be 
improved by adding fresh sandy loam and gritty material from roadsides 
in order to lighten it, If of a very tenacious character ashes can be 
utilised with advantage, or pulverised lime rubbish free from wood, 
which is liable to create fungoid growth, employed. Soils opposite in 
texture to the foregoing, such as those of a sandy nature, which are hot 
and dry, may receive a dressing of pounded clay or chalk. It is useless, 
however, to add it unpulverised and dig it in in the expectation that it 
will fall readily. If not ot’nerwise reduced it must be spread on the 
surface, allowing it to lie for a season so that the frosts, rains, and snows of 
winter may act upon the material and break it down. After this has taken 
place it should be thoroughly worked into the soil during dry periods. 
Manuring .—Heavily manuring soil just prior to planting ought to 
be avoided if possible. Manure, especially near the surface, so that the 
roots seize hold of it with avidity, may cause a rank, sappy, strong 
growth. Good friable soil of a character which produces first-class 
vegetables is rich enough for fruit trees. Poor, hungry soil must, how¬ 
ever, be enriched by working in in the lower spits a fair quantity of 
well decomposed manure. The upper layer of soil must be more 
sparingly dealt with. An addition of maiden loam to the staple material 
for the new roots to work in is better than manure, which can be added 
from the surface as required by means of mulchings and top-dressings. 
A compost formed from the general refuse heap, if thoroughly decayed 
and sweetened with lime, and a fair quantity of wood ashes mixed in, 
makes excellent material for top-dressing the surface. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Peaches and Nectarines. —Earliest House .—The trees are now 
leafless, and should be overhauled for pruning, dressing and readjust¬ 
ment of the growths. Where due regard has been paid to disbudding, 
preventing overcrowding and removing the useless growths after the 
fruits were gathered, very little pruning will now be required. Weakly 
and unpromising branches, however, may often be advantageously cut 
out in favour of sturdy, short-jointed growths, and unduly long shoots 
be shortened so as to originate vigorous ones from them at the proper 
place for covering the trellis evenly with bearing wood. The house 
should be thoroughly cleansed, woodwork with soap (preferably car¬ 
bolic or soft) water and a brush, glass with clear water and the walls 
limewashed, adding a handful of flowers of sulphur to a pailful, the 
sulphur being first formed into a paste with a little skim milk. The 
trees also should be washed with a softsoap solution, 3 ozs. to a gallon of 
water, applying with a brush and taking care not to dislocate the buds 
following with an approved insecticide. Likewise the border needs 
attention, removing the mulching or loose surface soil, pointing over 
very lightly, and supplying fresh loam, but not covering the roots more 
than 2 inches. About a quart of some advertised fertiliser may be mixed 
advantageously with every barrowload of the loam, and its manurial 
elements will get diffused through the soil by rains or watering, and be 
