Oti^ber 11,1894. 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
351 
available as food when the trees start into growth. The roof-lights may 
remain off until late November or the approach of severe weather, frost 
and snow sometimes interfering with their replacement. Both outside 
and inside borders are the better for whatever rains may fall up to 
starting, provided the drainage be thoroughly effective, and no covering 
is necessary beyond a light one to prevent the soil becoming frozen, 
for no roots can absorb moisture or nutriment from it in that state. 
Trees Started at the New Year. —The foliage is mainly off, but some 
leaves cling to the latest growths with remarkable tenacity, an indica¬ 
tion that the wood is not so well matured as obtains with forced trees 
generally, yet the buds are sufficiently plumped, and there is nothing to 
fear from immaturity, indeed there is more danger from over or pre¬ 
mature ripening in the buds falling than from somewhat late retention 
of the foliage. Clear away the leaves as they fall, and when all are 
down lose no time in having the house thoroughly cleaned, the trees 
pruned and dressed and tied to the trellis, top-dressing the border as 
before advised unless the trees have been lifted or root-pruned, when it 
will not, of course, be necessary. If the lights are moveable they may 
be taken off, or if already off they need not be replaced till December, 
otherwise afford all the air possible, and keep the inside border in a 
properly moist condition. 
Suceesaion lionises. —The foliage in these is quite green, being fully a 
month later in being shed than last year. The growths, however, are 
firm, and the buds quite prominent enough in the axils of the leaves. 
Too much air cannot be admitted, but it is necessary to reduce the 
ventilation on cold nights, or close the house in case of severe frost, 
which may cause the sudden collapse of the foliage and prejudicially 
affect the buds. Any trees that are unsatisfactory should be root- 
pruned or lifted as soon as the foliage is sufficiently matured—that is, 
gives indications of falling. In the case of young trees making a late 
growth it will be advisable to form a trench at a distance from the 
stem equal to about one-third the spread of the branches, detaching all 
the roots, leaving the trench open for ten days or a fortnight, when it 
may be filled firmly. This checks growth, and contributes to the 
maturity of the wood and buds. It also encourages the formation of 
fresh rootlets, insuring a fibry formation of them, which will decidedly 
benefit the setting and stoning of the fruit, as the tree is better nourished 
provided it is present in the soil. Care must be taken not to allow the 
soil to become dry in the part undisturbed. 
Late Houses. —The wood which has borne fruit may he cut out and 
thinned where too crowded. The structure may be kept rather close by 
day when there is sun, throwing the house open at night, which will 
assist the wood to ripen and concentrate the tree’s energies on the buds. 
In cold localities a gentle warmth in the pipes in dull weather will 
facilitate the ripening process, but it must be accompanied by a free 
circulation of air. 
Planting Young Trees —The border must be efficiently drained, the 
base having an incline to the drain, which should be formed of 3 or 
4-inch tiles having proper fall and outlet. In unfavourable subsoils it 
may be necessary to concrete the base, otherwise it is not advisable to 
do so, as moisture then has a better chance of ascending, and the roots 
will not descend if they are properly nourished in the border. Use 
clean drainage; first a layer of half-bricks or rubble of that size, another 
of smaller, and a third of the size of road metal, these 9 or 12 inches 
thick collectively, with a 3-inch layer of old mortar rubbish on the top, 
will make a very substantial foundation. The old mortar rubbish must 
be free from pieces of wood, be broken up rather fine and passed 
through a quarter-inch sieve, using that not passing through for 
drainage and the fine for mixing with the soil. Good strong loam is 
the only suitable material, the top 3 or 4 inches of a pasture with its 
turf being the best ; but well worked garden soil will grow Peaches and 
Nectarines well. If the turfy loam incline to be light add a fourth of 
clay marl finely divided, preferably dried and pounded ; if very strong 
add a fourth of road scrapings. A cartload of wood ashes may be 
added to twelve cartloads of loam and about 4 cwt. of crushed half- 
inch bones. These will supply mineral matter of which turf is generally 
deficient. If these cannot be had use 4 cwt. of basic slag phosphate 
and 2 cwt. kainit, mixing thoroughly with the loam and quantity 
named. Lime rubbish may be added to the extent of one-sixth to a 
tenth, according to the calcareous nature of the soil or otherwise. If 
ordinary garden soil be used it will be advisable to add a fifth part of 
fresh stable manure, freed, as far as possible, from the straw; the 
materials to be well incorporated and put together firmly when in a 
fairly dry state, 24 inches depth of border being sufficient, and for 
young trees the border need be only 3 feet wide, 4 feet 6 inches width 
accommodating trees trained two or three years to walls, while in any 
case the border need only be a foot more in breadth than the spread of 
the roots to begin with. Plant rather high, as the soil will settle and 
the surface dressings will raise to soil correspondingly. The earlier the 
trees are planted after the leaves show indications of falling the better, 
as provision is made for the emission of fresh rootlets at once. Supply 
water after planting, allow it to soak in, and when dry enough firm 
well and mulch as far from the stem outwards as the roots extend or a 
little more, with a couple of inches thickness of short, rather fresh 
manure. Though it is desirable to plant the trees inside the roots 
should have the run of outside borders, but for early forcing the roots 
are best confined inside. 
Varieties. — There is now so many that it is difficult to make 
selections. For very early forcing Alexander and Early Louise Peaches, 
also llivers’ Early Nectarine. Second early: Hale’s Early, Royal 
George or Stirling Castle or Dymond Peaches ; Lord Napier and 
Stanwick Elruge Nectarines. Midseason : Grosse Mignonne, Alexandra 
(Noblesse), Goshawk, and Bellegarde Peaches ; Elruge, Dryden, and 
Byron Nectarines. Late houses: Barrington, Princess of Wales, Glad¬ 
stone, Walburton Admirable, Sea Eagle, and Golden Eagle Peaches ; 
Pineapple, Newton, Spenser, Milton, and Victoria Nectarines. Unheated 
houses or wall cases to give a long succession of fruit : Waterloo, 
or Early Louise, Hale’s Early, Dr. Hogg, Rivers’ Early York, 
Alexandra (Noblesse) or Goshawk, Royal George, Grosse Mignonne 
or Dymond ; Bellegarde, Barrington, Princess of Wales, Gladstone 
or Sea Eagle ; Walburton Admirable or Golden Eagle Peaches ; 
Rivers’ Early, Lord Napier, Stanwick Elruge, Byron, Dryden, 
Pineapple, and Victoria Nectarines. With those or some of them in 
their order of naming from first to last a supply of fruit may be had 
from early in July to the middle of October or later, and all of the 
highest excellence both in appearance and quality. 
Cucumbers. —Place out the latest plants which are to afford a 
supply of fruit about the new year on ridges or hillocks, training with a 
single stem to the trellis, up which they may be allowed to advance 
about two-thirds, when the lead may be pinched. Those not having 
the convenience of a Cucumber house may secure fair supplies of winter 
fruit by growing the plants in pots cr boxes, training the growths near 
the glass over the paths in stoves, fruiting Pine houses, or other heated 
structures. Plants in bearing should not be overcropped, or the fruit 
allowed to remain longer than it is fit to cut, removing all deformed 
fruit in a young state. Maintain a night temperature of 70°, 5° less in 
the morning, 75° by day up to 85° with sun heat, admitting a little air 
at the top of the house at every favourable opportunity. The evapora¬ 
tion troughs may be charged with liquid manure, and the floor damped 
with water about 8 A.M. and 4 p M., dispensing with the syringe. 
Reduce the supply of water at the roots, but not so much so as to cause 
flagging. A few horse droppings, not too fresh, will benefit the plants 
through the waterings and the ammonia given off. Keep the foliage 
thin and free from insect pests, also the glass clean to secure those 
roughly solidified growths. 
IVIelons. —The supply of fruit will be kept up for some time longer, 
the later ones being only swelling. Sufficient moisture will be secured 
to this crop by damping in the morning and again early in the after¬ 
noon, affording water at the roots moderately, a supply once a week 
being sufficient in most cases. Cut off all supeifluous growths to afford 
the principal leaves the benefit of the autumn sun. Plants with fruits 
approaching ripeness must be kept dry and a brisk heat maintained 
with rather free ventilation, the temperature being kept at 65° at night, 
70° to 75° by day, rising to 85° to 90° from sun heat, affording a little 
air at the upper part of the house whenever the weather is favourable. 
Any fruits approaching ripeness may be cut with a portion of stem, and 
placed in a house with a gentle warmth to ripen. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Stepbanotls florlbunda. —Plants that have completed their 
growth should have a drier and cooler atmosphere to harden and ripen 
the wood. No artificial heat is really needed, provided the structure in 
which the plant is grown is closed at night. During sunny days a liberal 
supply of air should be given. Syringing may be discontinued, and 
considerably less water will be needed at the root. If trained under the 
roof weak growths should be removed so that every ray of light necessary 
can reach the wood required for flowering another year. If the plants 
are infested with mealy bugs eradicate them by syringing freely with 
petroleum and water. The foliage and wood being firm, they will bear 
without injury stronger doses than during the period of growth. One 
ounce of petroleum to the gallon of water may now safely be used, 
but if the plants are badly infested one application will not prove 
sufficient. 
iVllamandas. —These plants will flower for some considerable time 
if they are kept growing in a temperature of 60° at night and are fed 
with stimulants. The flowers will be found very useful during the next 
two months. Plants required for early starting may be kept drier and 
cooler to harden and ripen their wood. Water should be withheld until 
the foliage flags. A rest of six or eight weeks of cooler and drier treat¬ 
ment is ample, when the plants may be pruned back and started again 
into growth. 
Caladlum argyrltes. —Neat plants in from 3 to 5-inch pots are very 
useful during the winter. Plants that were grown early and have 
enjoyed a good rest may be started again into growth. The most con¬ 
venient way is to shake them out of their pots and place the tubers in 
boxes thickly together, in light soil and sand composed of fully one- 
half of leaf mould. The boxes can be stood over a warm pipe until 
they have started well into growth, when suitable pots can be made up. 
If these afterwards can be given a little bottom heat until they are 
established all the better. 
Achlmenes. —These are going past their best. All that have been 
raised from cuttings may be thrown away providing the old pans from 
which these were taken will provide sufficient stock. Those retained for 
stock purposes must not be hurried to rest; they should be gradually 
dried off, or else their underground stems will suffer considerably. A 
dry atmosphere should be given them—say a shelf in a vinery, where 
they can be watered for a time when dry until the foliage and stems 
naturally display signs of dying away. 
Gloxinias. —Young plants from seed to flower next month must not 
be kept too warm, or they come forward too rapidly. Plants that 
flowered early and have rested may be started again into growth. The 
treatment advised for Oaladium argyrites will suit them very well at 
