October 25, 1894. 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
393 
as those which have had no early regulation of growth, and as it is better 
to secure the fornrer they should be purchased when two or three years old. 
Time is lost in pruning and training in order to lay a foundation of 
branches. This is best done in the nurseries, where fruit trees are made 
a specialty, and it is from firms of repute that properly trained and 
named fruit trees may be obtained. They ought to have made good 
growth of medium strength, have clean wood, and a number of fibrous 
roots proportionate to their size. They will then transplant easily and 
grow away readily. It is not desirable to obtain trees with fruit buds 
predominating. A due amount of wood growth is essential to the future 
welfare of the trees. 
Stocks for Fruit Trees. —Nurserymen are well able to advise on 
this subject, but it may be mentioned as a guide for those planting trees 
in special positions. Pears for planting at narrow distances apart, say 
4 to 6 feet, must be obtained on the Quince stock. Apples on the 
Doucin or English Paradise stock, and Cherries on the Mahaleb stock. 
Pears for planting at wider distances should be on the Pear stock, and 
Apples on the Crab stock. Pear and Crab stocks root deeper, and are 
most fitting for trees of strong and large growth, while the dwarfing 
stocks are admirable for restraining growth, being of a fibrous surface¬ 
rooting character. 
Flantlngr. —Wide shallow holes should be dug before uncovering the 
roots of the trees to be placed therein. Previous to planting examine 
the roots, seeing whether there are any bruised portions, or jagged, torn 
ends. If so, they must be cut smoothly across, when they will quickly 
heal and further the development of fresh fibres. It is important that 
the roots be not long exposed. They dry and lose vitality under the 
influence of drying air, consequently they injure the trees. With every¬ 
thing in readiness the actual planting may be carried out quickly. 
Some light fibrous loam mixed with a little wood ashes is excellent for 
sprinkling among the roots. Make the soil firm before placing the tree 
in the hole, and be careful not to plant too deeply. Spread the roots 
out in layers to their full extent horizontally from their origin, sprinkling 
soil among the fibres carefully in an outward direction so that the points 
are not twisted backwards. The last or upper layer of roots should lay 
within 4 inches of the surface when finished. Stake the trees securely 
to prevent wind disturbance and the consequent disarrangement of the 
roots. A mulching of short littery manure will serve the double 
purpose of preserving heat and moisture in the soil and preventing the 
entry of frost. 
Newly planted wall trees ought not to be nailed or tied permanently 
in position at first, the soil usually sinking considerably, and the trees, 
being loose, settle along with it. This applies to all the forms of trees 
which are used for walls—horizontally trained, fan-shaped, and cordon. 
A few loose ties are sufficient to keep them in position until the ground 
consolidates, when the main nailing or tying in should take place. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Figs. —Earliest Forced Trees in Pots .—The trees intended for this 
purpose should, if they have been placed in the open air, be taken under 
cover to protect them from frost and the cold autumn rains. If not 
repotted, top-dressed, or had the drainage rectified as advised in a former 
calendar, the needful operations must be attended to at once. Place the 
trees in a rather dry well-ventilated house, where they will be cool, yet 
not subjected to more than a few degrees of frost. Any thinning of 
crowded and shortening of attenuated growths must be performed 
without delay, remembering that the fruit is produced on the well- 
matured shoots, and mainly near their extremities. Wash the trees 
carefully with softsoap (3 ozs. to a gallon), and water in a tepid state, 
using a brush, and reaching well into the angles of the shoots and 
crevices of the bark ; the brush must be sufficiently stiff to dislodge 
scale, using it carefully where the embryonic Figs are located, as the 
least scratch will show itself as a blemish on the developed fruit. After 
judicious as well as efficient washing, the trees may be dressed with an 
insecticide. 
In order to force Figs successfully, a light airy house, well heated, 
facing the south, and having pits containing fermenting materials to 
afford a bottom heat to stimulate the roots and afford a constant supply 
of nutritive matter, is necessary. It is also important to select varieties 
that produce first crop Figs with certainty or more so than many. Early 
Violet and St. John’s produce small fruit, black and greenish-white 
respectively, and are the earliest to ripen. Pingo de Mel possesses an 
excellent habit, and the fruit is larger and better flavoured than the 
preceding. For general purposes the best are White Marseilles and 
Brown Turkey, both producing large fruit, well flavoured, and the trees 
give good returns, both in the first and second crops. 
Planted-out Tig Trees .—Figs that have been in bearing since the early 
part of June are now commencing to rest, and may be divested of the 
old foliage as soon as it parts freely from the wood. If planted in 
inside borders, and the growth is considered too strong, the present is a 
favourable time for root-pruning, an operation that has a magical effect 
on over-luxuriant Fig trees, snd is very desirable where the space is 
limited. All the inert soil should be cleared away, strong roots cut out, 
or shortened to whence fibry proceed, and the drainage examined, and if 
defective be rectified. The roots may then be relaid in fresh compost, 
firmly rammed, mulched, and left dry until the time arrives for forcing. 
The soil, however, needs to be moderately moist when lifting operations 
are performed, then it will so remain till the time of starting. The 
young shoots that have been allowed to grow up with their ooiats to the 
glass will be thickly studded with embryo fruits, which must be 
protected from injury when the house and trees are cleansed, as well as 
from the effects of sudden and severe frosts, by being unfastened and 
drawn down below the trellis until the time arrives for thinning out the 
branches that have reached the extremity of the trellis. This will 
facilitate lifting and root-pruning operations. The best soil for Figs is 
a calcareous loam, which naturally contains nodules of limestone and 
particles of grit or small stones. Good friable loam, however, with a 
liberal addition of lime rubble, broken bricks and road scrapings will 
grow Figi well, the chief points being thorough drainage, firm soil and 
restricted root space. Stimulants, in the form of solid manure or 
liquid, should always be applied to the surface when the trees are 
growing. 
Late Fig House Trees .—All root-pruning should be finished as soon 
as the leaves give indications of falling, bearing in mind that strong¬ 
growing varieties can only be kept fruitful and manageable by limiting 
the rooting area proportionate to the extent of the trellis space. The 
root space need not exceed half that of the trellis, as the main points are 
to secure sturdy growths studded with fruit, and then feeding propor¬ 
tionately to the crop. When the leaves are down, or until they are, the 
houses should be freely ventilated, especially in favourable weather and 
at night, except when frost prevails. 
Strawberries In Pots. —Successful Strawberry forcing depends 
largely on the treatment the plants are subjected to during their preparatory 
course, and especially at what is commonly known as the resting period 
prior to starting. The wintering of Strawberries in pots by stacking 
them one upon another in sawdust or other material against a wall, or 
housing them on the border of fruit houses, is not only unnecessary, but 
absolutely injurious, as the soil not infrequently becomes dry, and the 
currents of air induced by the free ventilation wastes the energies of 
the plants. The forwardest will now have the crowns well developed 
and the pots filled with healthy roots. To preserve these is a point of 
some importance, as when they get frozen and suddenly thawed their 
collapse is certain and the plants start badly in consequence. If 
intended for early forcing they will be the better for having lights 
placed over them, the pots being plunged in ashes or cocoa-nut fibre 
refuse, or even tree leaves, but not so thick as to heat ; but the lights 
must be withdrawn in mild weather, and only used in case of heavy 
rains, when they must be tilted, or in case of frost. 
They should be regularly examined for watering, supplying it only 
to such as stand in need, never allowing them to suffer, as the Straw¬ 
berry is much injured when allowed to become dry at the roots. Place 
late plants in a raised bed, or plunge in ashes or other material on the 
flat in a sunny position to finish the ripening process, and they will 
require to be duly supplied with water. If any plants remain long 
without needing a supply, or the soil becomes very wet, examine the 
drainage, rectifying it wherever defective, expelling worms with lime 
water. Sun and sharp frosts ripen the growths and solidify the crowns 
better than the atmosphere of houses. 
HE) BEE-KEEPER. 
s 
APIARIAN NOTES. 
Prepared for the Winter. 
After overhauling and filling up hives with worker comb to 
prevent excess of drones next summer, I have not observed a single 
cell of foul brood in any one of my stocks, due entirely, I believe, 
to my thorough system of ventilation. I have had an entire 
immunity from it for upwards of thirty years. Carbolic acid I 
found valuable only when other laws of sanitation were attended 
to; it does not destroy the germs of foul brood. All my stocks, 
too, are wind and watertight, yet permit the escape of the perspira¬ 
tion of the bees from within. 
We do not fear the severest weather during the winter, and to 
lessen the risk of the loss of bees during the spring and early 
summer all are provided with extra stores, so that feeding will be 
entirely obviated up till June, 1895. Should the season be 
untoward we may have to feed then, and as our hives are all full- 
sized, unless those in two divisions I want to swarm, there is much 
room for storing newly gathered honey should the season be 
favourable. 
Mead. 
“ A. E.” inquires how to make mead. We make our mead 
from the Heather honey washed from the combs after they are 
pressed. The pollen amongst these combs gives a high colour, 
flavour, and assists fermentation. We have no standard of 
amounts further than by the denseness of the liquor, and having it 
so that an egg floats on it, or as strong as syrup fed to bees. 
After the honey is thoroughly washed out of the combs, pre¬ 
paratory to the latter being boiled for the purpose of extracting 
the wax, it is passed through sieves and muslin bags. It is then 
allowed to stand till all sediment settles at the bottom, when the 
liquor is again filtered, after which it is boiled for about an hour, 
skimming carefully the froth as it appears. Before lifting from 
