NoTember 1,1894. 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
415 
Anemone-flowered varieties were well staged, and in the class for a 
dozen blooms Messrs. R. Leadbetter, A. Tomalin, and J. Moore won the 
prizes. The most attractive flowers were Jean Marty, Nelson, and 
Gladys Spaulding. 
The classes for half dozen blooms of one variety of each section 
were well filled. Mr. R. Filkins, gardener to Miss Alexander, Oakbank, 
Chislehurst, won with half dozen blooms of any white Japanese, show¬ 
ing Puritan. Mr. J. Pearce, The Gardens, Belmont, Lee, was second 
with Elaine ; and Mr. A. Tomalin third. Mr. C. Payne had the best 
«ix coloured Japanese, staging grand flowers of Viviand Morel. Mr. 
P. Waterer was second with W. Seward ; and Mr. Filkins third with 
International. Mr. C. Payne won with half dozen blooms of one 
incurved variety, showing Baron Hirsch. Mr. W. Amies was second 
with Mons. R. Bahuant; and Mr. W. T. Castleman third with Mr. Bunn, 
all in good condition. 
There were only three groups of Chrysanthemums for competition, 
and here Mr. F. Fox, gardener to Mrs. Penn, The Cedars, Lee, was 
placed first for a collection of good plants, but too closely arranged. 
Mr. J. Fulford, gardener to J. Wythes, Esq., Bickley Hall, Bickley, 
was second with a group of very dwarf plants ; Mr. J. Williams, College 
Park Nursery, Lewisham, being third. Mr. J. Lyne, gardener to H. F. 
Tiarks, Esq., Foxbury, Chislehurst, was first with a group of miscel¬ 
laneous plants ; Mr. A. Tomalin being second. Both contributions 
were well arranged, and included many Orchids. 
Mr. R. Leadbetter secured the first of the special prizes offered by 
the President for twenty-four blooms, eight to be Japanese, eight 
incurved, and eight reflexed. Mr. C. Payne was second, and Mr. F. 
Moore third. Other special prizes were offered, and won chiefly by the 
exhibitors mentioned. The classes open to local growers were well filled, 
the same applying to those for epergnes and baskets of flowers. Mr. 
D. B. Crane, Highgate, won first prizes for the two latter with 
charmingly arranged exhibits. Table plants were admirably repre¬ 
sented, while Grapes, Apples, and other fruit were well shown in the 
competitive classes. 
Miscellaneous exhibits were not very numerous, but those shown 
were of excellent quality. Mr. H. J. Jones, Ryecroft Nursery, 
Lewisham, had a splendid stand of Chrysanthemum blooms cut with 
long stems, and arranged in handsome vases with Asparagus sprays, 
Smilax and dried bracken fronds. The whole presented a unique and 
charming appearance, and may be advantageously imitated by other 
exhibitors. Messrs. W. Edwards & Sons, Sherwood, Nottingham, had a 
stand of their “Edwardian” floral decorations, and Messrs. J. Laing 
and Sons, Forest Hill, sent a fine collection of fruit. Messrs. J. Peed 
and Sons also staged fruit. Mr. C. Williams, Hammersmith, sent 
receptacles for holding flowers, and Mr. J. Aley, Hurst Lodge, Lee, had 
a group of Carnations. Messrs. H. Cannell & Sons, Swanley, had cut 
blooms of Chrysanthemums, and Mr. J. Williams, Lewisham, sent a 
gronp of plants. 
The finest Japanese bloom in the show was Mdlle. Th^rese Rey, 
shown by Mr. W. Wells, Earlswood Nurseries, Redhill. Mr. Wells also 
had the premier incurved bloom, a grand example of Madame Darier. 
1 ^/ 
WOKK.F0IITHE week.. O 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Vines. — Early Forced Vines in Pots. —Where thin-skinned Grapes 
are required in March and April the house intended for the Vines to 
produce them will now be ready for their reception. The pots should 
be placed on pillars which will not give way under their weight, or 
interfere with attending to the fermenting material used for supplying 
bottom heat, than which nothing answers better than bricks placed to 
■the required height without mortar, Against the pedestals some turves 
may be placed, and the holes in the pots enlarged, bringing the turf up 
above these so as to be within easy reach of the roots, which will speedily 
follow the stimulating food with which the Vines are fed, and the 
weight and quality of the crop will be materially enhanced. Oak, Beech, 
or Spanish Chestnut leaves are the best for supplying bottom heat, being 
of a durable nature, giving out heat and moisture steadily through the 
early stages of growth, and rich stimulating food from their decay during 
the swelling of the fruit, when it requires all the support that can be 
given. Take care that the heat about the pots does not exceed 70° to 75°, 
supplying water only to keep the soil moderately moist, as a wet condition 
does not favour speedy and healthy root action. 
Allow the canes to fall into a horizontal position over the fermenting 
material until they have broken, but not permitting them to rest upon 
the moist aud warm bed. Syringe the paths, walls, and canes two or 
three times a day, but sufficiently early for the last time each day to 
allow of the canes becoming fairly dry before nightfall. Maintain a 
temperature of 55° at night, and 60° to 65° in the daytime, with a free 
circulation of air at and above that temperature, and close early in the 
afternoon. 
Succession Ilovses.—'Pxish. oa the pruning as soon as the Vines become 
clear of foliage, also the cleansing and lime-washing, carefully washing 
the rods with soap and water before dressing them with an insecticide. 
This will be all that is in most cases necessary, few growers now practising 
the old-fashioned process of peeling, scraping, and painting with a 
pigment of clay, soot, sulphur, and other substances. Where insects, 
however, have a strong hold on the Vines it is absolutely necessary to 
remove the loose bark, but do not injure the living rods, and eradicate 
the enemy by washing thoroughly with an insecticide. Some strong 
mixtures, especially those compounded of oils and fats, are more injurious 
to the Vines than the peeling, and they should be avoided unless used 
with an equal weight of dry pulverised clay and sufficient water to form 
a cream readily applicable with a brush. 
Midseason Houses. —Any Grapes that are still on the Vines may be 
cut, as they will keep fresh in bottles of water in a cool, dry room. The 
Grapes should be cut with all the wood that can be spared for insertion 
into bottles of rain water, removing the foliage, but not shortening the 
wood that has been formed beyond the bunch. The Vines should then 
have the laterals shortened or removed, and the growths generally cut 
back, so as to plump the pruning buds, but it must be done gradually in 
the case of vigorous Vines which are disposed to make a late growth, 
checking their propensity by free ventilation constantly, and where the 
wood is not brown and hard the heat should be turned on by day, but 
shutting it off at night only the temperature must not be allowed to fall 
below 50° at night, until the foliage affords indications of falling. The 
Vines will derive great benefit from the exposure to the weather so long 
as it continues mild, guarding against a sudden chill by drawing up the 
roof lights or closing the house when the nights are likely to be wet or 
frosty. 
Late HamhurgTi Houses. —The atmosphere in which bunches of thin- 
skinned Grapes are hanging cannot be too carefully attended to, as the 
berries are very susceptible to injury from excessive moisture, while if 
kept too dry and warm they are liable to shrivel. A gentle movement of 
the atmosphere will prevent the deposition of moisture on the berries, 
and when ventilation cannot be given a little warmth in the hot-water 
pipes will keep the air in motion, and the moisture will be condensed 
on the glass so long as the external air is cooler than that of the house. 
A steady temperature of 50°, with a little warmth in the pipes, and 
liberal ventilation on fine days, will suit the Grapes during the fall of the 
leaf, when, unless the house is well adapted for keeping them, the 
bunches may be cut, bottled, and placed in the late houses or a cool, dry 
room. The border must be kept fairly moist or the Grapes will shrivel 
even while the leaves are on the Vines. 
Late Houses. —Muscats, as a rule, have done well this season, being 
fine in berry, high in colour, and excellent in quality. This is the 
outcome of thoroughly ripened wood and stored matter from last year. 
The Grapes will need a temperature of 50° to 65° until the leaves 
commence falling, and moisture must be kept from becoming stagnant 
by a judicious admission of air. Where the Vines have lost their leaves 
a light shading may be necessary to prevent the berries becoming 
brown, which is not a tinge esteemed at table nor in the market. Only 
where the panes of glass are large and the weather bright is this advis¬ 
able, and a single thickness of pilchard nets drawn over the roof lights 
will be sufficient shading. The thick-skinned Grapes will still improve 
in finish and quality, being accorded a temperature of 50° and air freely 
above that on all favourable occasions. 
Though the berries keep well enough in houses where the outside 
borders are exposed to the weather, it is only when they are high and 
dry, for a cold saturated soil is not without its baneful effects on the 
Grapes as well as the roots of the Vines. To prevent such condition the 
borders should be covered with lights or something that will throw off 
deluging rains and snow. Lights are the best, as the border then gets 
the benefit of sun and air ; but a covering of dry fern or leaves with a 
little litter over them is better than nothing. The inside borders will 
be getting dry at the surface, and should be covered with some 
dry fern or sweet straw, neatly spreading it over them ; this will 
prevent their cracking and giving off dust, besides improving their 
appearance. Give daily attention to the removal of ripe foliage as it 
parts from the Vines, keeping the houses clear of plants requiring 
water, and thoroughly sweet and clean, removing all faulty berries as 
they appear. 
Cherry House. —The trees having cast their leaves should be 
prunefi. Cut bick to within an inch of the base shoots which were 
made during the summer and stopped at the fifth joint. This applies to 
all spur growths, but the extensions and growths for forming branches 
to furnish the trees should not be shortened, unless they have reached 
the extremity of the trellis, or when it is necessary to multiply the 
shoots another season. The house should then be thoroughly cleaned, 
and the trees washed with a tepid solution of softsoap (2 or 3 ozs. to a 
gallon of water). Then limewash the walls with best fresh lime and a 
handful of flowers of sulphur in each pailful. Dress the trees with an 
insecticide—one that will annihilate and prove objectionable to aphides 
and red spider, and afterwards train and tie them to the trellis. Clear 
away all prunings and other matter. Remove the loose material, 
whether mulchings or soil, on the border. If the roots are near the 
surface and fully occupy the soil a light pointing over may be all that 
can be done prior to top-dressing with an inch or two thickness of fresh 
rich loam, but no opportunity should be lost of removing inert soil, and 
changing it for fresh turfy loam of a calcareous nature. The lights being 
off they need not be replaced until the time of starting or the approach 
of severe weather. Under fixed roofs attention will need to be given the 
borders for watering, keeping them evenly moistened through, 
ventilating the house fully at all times up to starting. 
