438 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
November 
and start them to breed at times when others are not breeding ; 
besides, bees may start with no honey nor pollen, depending 
entirely upon artificial food, and do fairly well, but such hives will 
never surpass unfed well managed hives. 
Feeding stimulates the bees, which in turn assists their queen, 
which at first deposits many eggs, is soon crowded, and the steps 
outside the boundary of the extreme cluster depositing many there 
to be eaten by the bees. This exhaustive egg-layiug continues 
sometimes for weeks, and affects the hive greatly during the 
summer months, tending to her premature dethronement, or 
swarming before the hive is near full strength ; “ brood-spreading ” 
results in similar disappointments. 
The most profitable hive is the one well bred and well found in 
everything, starts to breed early, but gradually from the centre of 
the brood nest, never getting outside the cluster of bees ; the hive 
soon increases in strength to swarming point, while the queen, 
unlike stimulated ones, is able to continue depositing eggs to the 
extent of 3000 daily for a long time after.—A Lanarkshire 
Bee-keeper. 
Seasonable Notes. 
With the exception of July the past month has been the 
wettest one of the year, 3 35 inches of rain having fallen on 
twenty-one days. Sharp frosts occurred on the 2l8t and 22nd of 
the month, which destroyed all tender plants; but the weather has 
been mild on the whole. To-day, November 2nd, the thermometer 
registered 61° in the shade, which has enabled the bees to be on the 
wing. The bees have been working freely on the Ivy, returning to 
their hives loaded with pollen, showing that breeding is still going 
on. I do not care to stimulate them to breed so late in the season, 
as we must now at any time expect cold frosty nights. High 
winds, too, are usually prevalent during this month, which will 
lower the temperature of the hives very much. 
Late feeding has a tendency to cause late breeding, and if 
severe weather should set in the brood would be turned out of the 
hive. To illustrate what I mean it may be mentioned that the last 
week in September I drove some bees from straw skeps, putting 
three sets of driven bees together into a frame hive, filled with 
combs fully drawn out. In a few days the bees stored 28 lbs. of 
thick syrup, most of which was sealed over at once. The weather 
being mild, they continued breeding throughout the past month till 
the severe frost came on the 21st; two days afterwards I noticed 
dead brood in various stages of development cast out of the hive. 
I have noticed the same thing happen under similar circumstances 
before. It is quite a common occurrence after a spell of cold or 
wet weather in the spring, more particularly if the bees are at all 
short of stores in their hives, for them to turn their brood out of 
their cells, the bees wisely guarding against an increase in numbers 
when their food supply is short. 
Ventilation of the hives should now be seen to, as there will 
now be no fear of robbing. All entrances that were reduced early 
in the autumn to prevent robbing may now be opened their full 
width. Abundance of bottom ventilation will keep the bees in 
good health, and will prevent moisture condensing on the combs. 
It was by accident several years ago that I found out the advantage 
of having my hives freely ventilated in the winter. During a very 
hot spell of weather the previous summer one of my stocks, although 
shaded, became overheated. My hives having loose bottom boards I 
wedged up the body of the hive so that the bees had free access the 
whole width of the hive, and a good circulation of air soon cooled the 
hive down, with the result that I had some excellent supers filled, 
and was not again troubled with my bees bagging out and not 
working. The hives were left wedged up till the following spring, 
and came out stronger and in better condition than any of my 
other stocks. It is better to reduce the entrance again in the 
spring, as the brood nest should be kept warm ; there is also a 
danger of robbers at that time of the year, and should a stock be 
at all weak the stronger hives will soon clear out all the stores, and 
the bees will perish. Once a strong stock get the robbing mania 
no weak hive will be safe. Robbing is ofcen caused by feeding 
the bees during the day, also by spilling the syrup. Bees should 
be always fed at night. 
Now is a good time for painting all hives, as there will not be 
many bees on the wing. All crevices or places where the moisture 
can get through should be well filled with putty and the paint well 
worked in. All roofs ought to be made waterproof, and all leak¬ 
ages, in whatever part of the hive they are, should be stopped, for 
unless the bees are kept dry it is impossible for them to do well. 
Thin zinc nailed on the roofs of hives makes a capital waterproof 
covering. It has the disadvantage of getting very hot in the 
summer, but this can be counteracted by shading. Wooden roofs 
are sometimes very troublesome when they have knots in them, and 
will invariably leak at times. I have been troubled very much with 
them and tried various ways of stopping the wet, but failed in each 
case until I obtained some pieces of calico and cut it a little larger 
than the knot, painted it on both sides, then put a piece ever each 
knot, painting it down. This proved a complete success, ftr since 
trying this plan I have never been troubled with a leaky roof.— 
An English Bee-keeper. 
All correspondence should be directed either to “ The 
Editor ” or to “ The Publisher.’' Letters addressed to 
Dr. Hogg or members of the staff often remain unopened 
unavoidably. We request that no one will write privately 
to any of our correspondents, as doing so subjects them to 
unjustifiable trouble and expense. 
Correspondents should not mix up on the same sheet questions 
relating to Gardening and those on Bee subjects, and should 
never send more than two or three questions at once. All 
articles intended for insertion should be written on one side of 
the paper only. We cannot reply to questions through the post, 
and we do not undertake to return rejected communications. 
Mustard and Cress (C. Sinith). —A copy of the paper containing 
what you require has been sent to your address. 
Cucumbers and Melon Growlngr (^Excclsiov ').—1, No, net well. 
2, The plan you propose is the best under the circumstances. You ask 
us to reply “ simply,” and have tried to do what you ask, though we 
scarcely know what you mean. 
Cbrysanthemum Sport (_Stone). —There have been scores of 
white sports from Viviand Morel exhibited from time to time that have 
found no favour with judges, for one reason because many of the 
so-called new varieties have sported back again. It is very doubtful 
indeed if your sport is of any material value. 
Garden Peas.—Chemical Manure for Strawberries In the 
Open Ground (J. W, d/.).—The election you propose shall be 
considered, but you will perceive it would not meet the difficulty you 
mention of “old friends under fresh names.” For the Strawberries 
you may now use a mixture of superphosphate and kainit in equal 
parts, applying lbs. per rod (30^ square yards), pointing in lightly, 
and in the spring, when the plants are beginning to grow, supply 2 lbs. 
per rod of powdered nitrate of soda, or | lb. less if the ground be of a 
dampish nature. The nitrate of soda should be used close up to the 
plants, but not sprinkled in their crowns, for if started into growth it 
may do some injury, while if not used near them slugs and other 
predatory pests escape its effects. 
Hollyhocks Diseased (TF. 6'.).—Dusting the leaves with soot 
and lime would be useful, but not sufficiently powerful to destroy the 
fungus. The best remedy is the Bordeaux mixture, which should be 
sprayed on the leaves, coating them thoroughly on both surfaces with 
the finest possible film. That, however, is somewhat difficult to effect 
on small plants, therefore you may dust the leaves with anti-blight 
powder, or sponge them carefully with permanganate of potash 
(Condy’s fluid), diluted to a rose colour with water. The stems also 
should be treated with the solution, as the Puccinia infests them, also 
the leafstalks, as well as the leaves. It is likely the fungus spores have 
come from wild Mallow in your neighbourhood, and may not have been 
brought with the plants. Repeat the sponging as necessary. 
Xand for Fruit Growing- (J. A.).—Not only must the staple of 
the land be taken into consideration but exposure, also local influences 
affecting the production of superior fruit. Even moderately good 
samples will not answer your purpose. You ask, “ If we know any 
reason why the district (you name) would not be suitable?” We do 
not, but this negative evidence is of no use whatever, and if you 
cannot afford to spend £3 or £4 for an inspection and report by a pro¬ 
fessional adviser we strongly advise you not to invest your savings with 
the object in question. Few greater mistakes can be made than for 
persons with small capital, and no experience in fruit growing, to act 
as you propose doing, in the absence of sound advice founded on a 
careful inspection of the site and soil. Assuming the report were 
favourable the inspector would be the most qualified to give the further 
information you desire. 
Making a Vine Border (J. L. A.). —1, The border must be well 
drained, the drain or drains having proper fall and outlet. A foot 
depth of drainage should be provided, placing the roughest at the 
bottom and the finest (about the size of road metal) on the top. Depth 
of compost 27 to 30 inches. 2, It would be desirable to use soil from 
both the old pastures, an equal proportion of the top 2 or 3 inches of 
each, taking care to incorporate them well together. Of these combined, 
twelve cartloads ; fresh horse droppings, one cartload; old mortar 
rubbish (free from pieces of wood), two cartloads ; charcoal, nuts, one 
cartload ; bones, crushed, 1 inch down to J inch, 5 cwts. Chop the 
