528 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
December 6,1894. 
the wideness of the crate and a quarter of an inch thick. Three of 
them are nearly an inch broad, and the one beneath the folding end 
1;^ inch ; the two outermost are nailed flush to the ends, and the 
two inner ones guided to their proper position beneath the sections 
by a notched stick, which is a much better plan than measuring. 
A small fillet one-quarter by three-sixteenths of an inch is nailed 
to the top edge, and to within half an inch of the bottom of the 
two ends, for the purpose of giving the bees space and filling 
the sections more satisfactorily. 
The cost of these crates is nominal, and they can be made in 
about half an hour. The larger size holds twenty-one Ij-inch 
sections, or eighteen 2-inch ones, but the latter requires a 
“jammer” to fill the space. The “jammer” may be made of 
quarter-inch wood, the bottom edge having a piece nailed at 
right angles of the proper breadth. To close the space above it 
should be stuffed with cloth or paper to keep the bees out. 
The folding end of the crate is of great advantage when it is 
removed full from the hive. Two brass screws near the top edge, 
which makes it rigid, have only to be removed, and the end 
folded down, when the sections may, after being slackened by the 
operation, be lifted easily from it. By using a board having three 
blocks of the width of the sections, and rather deeper, nailed at 
the proper distances to pass easily between the bearers of the crate, 
the operator has only to place the crate in position, and bringing 
a little pressure to bear upon it, it is pushed to the bottom, while 
the sections rest on the top of the blocks. The above plan 
obviates all risk of damaging sections, as is the ease in ordinary 
crates. 
The divisional boxes, or hive proper, are three in number, fewer 
being unsatisfactory. They are made of |-inch timber, 14 inches 
from side to side (inside measure) by 14^ inches from front to 
back (inside) by inches deep. Each division has nine frames 
minus bottom rails, and mouthpieces as shown at figure 83 (d, e). 
The bee-keeper may not adhere strictly to the size given between 
the front and back, but from side to side it must be followed. The 
frames hang in rabbets on the top edge of the front and back, 
standing at right angles to the entrance and IJ inch from centre to 
centre. This gives a quarter of an inch more at the extreme sides, 
which, for various reasons, is desirable. First plane one side, 
straight one edge, then, gauging the breadth accurately, square 
one end. Take the measure stick, butt it hard to the end squared, 
then with an awl mark and square the sides, cut outside or clear 
of the draught. This is all the preparation the sides require 
before nailing, which is much to be preferred to dovetailing. 
The fronts and backs are those which require rabbeting. 
Figs. 82 and 83 show how it is done, and may be made by the 
same method as the supers, or the edge with the plane mentioned 
and ends with a saw ; a (fig. 82) is the side, I the front, prepared 
for nailing, with end projecting to save cleaning off when nailed ; 
c, d, and e section of front, showing the rabbet for bar and slide for 
mouthpiece, J inch deep ; / section of top bar, showing groove for 
foundation, and tacket to preserve distance ; and g, g end pieces of 
frame. The tenon is quarter square, and of course the pieces are 
a quarter thick, these lines are full size. The end pieces may be 
made from thin pieces of wood, but it is better to work blocks, as 
shown in illustration, then get them cut with a circular or hand¬ 
saw. The tenon should be a little larger than the hole in the bar. 
To prevent splitting the latter bore a hole with same centre-bit as 
bars are bored with in a piece of hard wood, and drive the tenon, 
in it. 
The bars are prepared by planing the face of a half-inch board, 
squaring one end, then with the same gauge-stick used for the sides 
mark the square, and cut inside the draught. This gives the 
necessary slack to the bars for easy manipulation. "When cut try 
them in the template where they are grooved in, and if of the right 
FIG. 83. 
length run a marking gauge set at |-inch along the ends, and with 
another at base 1^-inch the sides for the breadth of bar, then again 
the one, where the lines intersect, enter your centre-bit.— 
A Lanarkshire Bee-keeper. 
(To be continued.) 
TRADE CATALOGUES RECEITED. 
Dicksons & Co., Edinburgh.— Fniit Trees, 
Robert Owen, Castle Hill, Maidenhead .—New and Select Chrys¬ 
anthemums, 
All correspondence should be directed either to “ The 
Editor or to “ The Publisher.” Letters addressed to 
Dr. Hogg or members of the stafiE often remain unopened 
unavoidably. We request that no one will write privately 
to any of our correspondents, as doing so subjects them to 
unjustifiable trouble and expense. 
Correspondents should not mix up on the same sheet questions 
relating to Gardening and those on Bee subjects, and should 
never send more than two or three questions at once. All 
articles intended for insertion should be written on one side of 
the paper only. We cannot reply to questions through the post, 
and we do not undertake to return rejected communications. 
Books {T. j5.),—The “ Parki and Gardens of London ” treats on 
carpet bedding, with designs and the propagation of the plants employed. 
Post free for 23. lid. from this office. You would also find Mr. 
D. Thomson’s excellent “ Book of the Flower Garden ” very useful. It 
is published by Messrs. Blackwood & Sons, Edinburgh, and can be 
obtained through a bookseller. We do not remember the price. 
Petroleum Emulsion — Naming' Plants — Bain Gauge 
{Henri.)—The petroleum emulsion (page 485) to which you refer is 
quite safe and effective for dipping smooth-leaved stove plants for the 
destruction of mealy bug and scale. Varietiesof Crotons raised originally 
from seed can only be named by comparing the leaves with others in a 
large collection. For information respecting a cheap and accurate rain 
guage, write to G. J. Symons, Esq., Camden Square, London. 
Wash for Orchard Trees (A". T, Z.), —You do not say whether 
you want a winter or a summer wash. We give both. Winter Wash : 
i lb. caustic soda (98 per cent.), J lb. crude commercial potash, water 
6 gallons. Dissolve the soda and potash in hot water, and apply with a 
