550 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
December 13,1894. 
Allowing side shoots to extend unchecked on cordons is ruinous to the 
trees. Branches of horizontally trained or espalier trees require similar 
treatment. It frequently happens, however, that on walls they are trained 
too closely, and the fruitfulness of the trees suffers in consequence, the 
upper branches, especially if furnished with elongated spurs, shading 
those below them to an injurious extent. The result is that the equalisa¬ 
tion of sap is destroyed, more vigour being imparted to the upper tiers 
of branches, while the lower are considerably weakened. A space of 
12 or 15 inches between each tier is not too much to allow, the latter 
distance being preferable in aged trees, which, having larger clumps of 
spurs, need additional light and air, but reductions of growth must be 
effected gradually^ 
Plums and Cherries. —Standard Trees .—Young trees not fully 
furnished with the requisite number of branches must be cut back to 
firm well-ripened wood buds, to enable clean strong growth to extend 
for that purpose. When a sufficient number have been obtained the 
necessity for severe pruning ceases in standard trees, an occasional 
thinning-out being all that is necessary. A gross shoot here and there 
may require cutting out, but upon the whole the wood produced will be 
fruitful; it is therefore imperative that the trees have ample space 
for enabling air and light to reach them on all sides, these essentials 
ensuring the continuance of a fruitful condition, as well as tending 
largely to preserve the symmetry of the trees. 
Wall Trees .—In growing Plums and Cherries against walls there are 
two forms of trees adopted—for low walls the horizontal or espalier 
form, and for high walls the fan form, the latter admitting of better 
replenishing the trees with new wood when old or decaying branches 
render such a course necessary. In the former case the fruit is borne 
entirely on spurs. This necessitates summer pruning, shoots thus 
shortened now requiring to be further cut back to a few buds at the 
base of each for forming fruit spurs for future bearing. The fan shape 
admits of this also, likewise the laying-in of a few annual shoots ivher- 
ever room can be found. Morello Cherries are best grown on the fan¬ 
shaped system, with this important difference—that the whole of the 
growth may be made annually, this fruiting the following year, to, be 
then cut out and its place taken with a fresh relay of young wood. 
This may be done now, and the shoots nailed-in at convenient oppor¬ 
tunities. The Morello Cherry, however, is amenable to restricted 
training, as well as Plums and dessert Cherries, though, as a rule, such 
profitable crops are not obtained. On the fan system the young wood 
is trained-in at distances asunder, varying from 4, to_ 6 inches, and the 
shoots are not shortened. 
FEUIT POKCING. 
Peacbes and N’ectarlnes. —Earliest Forced House .—When the 
buds commence swelling and advancing for flowering the atmosphere 
must not be kept close and warm, as it is important the blossoms come 
on steadily and have time to develop a strong flower perfect in all its 
parts. It is an excellent practice to admit a little air constantly at the 
top of the house, and above 60° the ventilation should be increased 
correspondingly with the temperature, but not allowing a decline below 
50° in the daytime, sufficient artificial heat being employed for that 
purpose. With sun an advance may be allowed to 65°, closing for the 
day before the temperature has receded to 55° At night a temperature 
of 40° to 46° is ample, or even less in severe weather. When the anthers 
show in the flowers cease syringing the trees, but afford a moderate 
amount of atmospheric moisture by sprinkling the paths and borders in 
the morning and early afternoon. Avoid a moist, close atmosphere, 
with a high temperature at night. Make sure that there is no deficiency 
of moisture in the inside borders. If necessary, supply water or liquid 
manure at the mean temperature of the house. If there be a super¬ 
abundance of blossom remove that on the under side or back of the 
trellis by drawing the hand contrary to the growth. It will materially 
assist the swelling and strengthen the remaining flowers. 
Second Forced House .—This is the structure containing trees started 
at the New Year, and from which a supply of fruit is to be gathered in 
May and early in June. Fruit can be had earlier where the varieties 
consist of Alexandra, Waterloo, and other very early Peaches, but these 
have not the quality, nor even the appearance, of such varieties as Hale’s 
Early, Stirling Castle, Royal George, and Dymond Peaches, while Early 
Rivers, Lord Napier, and Stanwick Elruge leave nothing to be desired 
as regards early Nectarines. The house should be closed now, fire heat 
being only employed to exclude frost, the trees being sprinkled in the 
morning and afternoon, allowing them to become fairly dry before 
night. Keeping the trees constantly dripping with moisture, especially 
at night, has an enfeebling tendency, and promotes wood bud rather 
than blossom bud development. The temperature should not be allowed 
to exceed 50° without full ventilation. Thoroughly moisten the inside 
borders down to the drainage ; protect the outside ones with dry leaves 
or bracken and a little long litter on the top. 
Succession Houses .—Push forward the routine work, bringing matters 
to a close as speedily as possible in respect of pruning the trees, dressing 
them, and cleansing the house. If the houses have fixed roof-lights 
ventilate to the fullest extent in all but very severe weather. When 
moveable it is much the best plan to remove them and expose the trees 
to the elements for the winter. The frosts make an end of brown scale, 
and the trees are not alternately excited and retarded as they are under 
fixed roofs. Even the latest and unheated houses should be treated in 
that way. 
rigs .—Earliest Forced Trees in Pots.—Whexe a house of this much- 
neglected fruit was started in November with fermenting materials in 
tie pits the trees are now showing signs of growth by the swelling of 
the terminal buds. The roots also that were cut back are sending forth 
fresh feeders through the compost placed about the pots, this desirable 
state of things being effected under the influence of the genial heat of 
the fermenting materials. These should now be examined, and if the 
heat does not exceed 75° they may be trodden down round the pedestals 
and bases of the pots preparatory to the introduction of fresh material, 
which should be properly worked and warmed before being taken in. 
Take care that the heat about the pots does not exceed 70° to 75°. The 
heat and moisture given off by the fermenting material will greatly 
facilitate forcing operations by modifying and reducing the amount of 
fire heat. On cold nights the temperature should fall to 50°, and 55° by 
artificial means will be sufficient in the daytime, with a rise of 10° from 
sun heat. Syringe the trees and walls with tepid water on fine morn¬ 
ings and again in the afternoon from 1 to 2 p.m. ; but with the moisture 
arising from fermenting materials there will not be the need of this in 
dull weather, nor must the moisture be excessive or it will promote 
growth at the expense of the fruit. Keep the glass clean and free from 
condensed moisture by ventilating on all favourable occasions. 
Where a start has not been made, and it is desired to have ripe Figs 
in late April or early in May, the trees should be introduced and started 
forthwith. Low lean-to or three-quarter span-roof houses facing the 
south are the beat. Bottom heat is not indispensable, but it is a great 
aid to forcing operations, the trees being accommodated with brick 
pedestals, and the pits filled with fermenting materials, but the heat at 
the base of the pots must not exceed 70° at the start. It is also advisable 
to have a few trees of such varieties as Early Violet and St. John’s to 
afford a few early dishes, and rely on White Marseilles and Brown 
Turkey for the main supplies. The temperature should be similar to 
that before advised. 
Succession, Houses .—Proceed with the pruning, losing no time in 
getting the work finished. Cut back or entirely remove all old spurs, 
and thin out or remove the least promising shoots that have reached the 
extremity of the trellis to make room for fresh growths and full develop¬ 
ment of wood and foliage. The Fig delights in heat, moisture, and 
good living, with abundance of light and a free circulation of air. 
Thorough cleanliness is essential to success, therefore spare no pains in 
cleansing the trees, woodwork, and walls. If brown scale has been 
troublesome use a mixture of softsoap and petroleum, dissolving 1 lb. of 
softsoap in a gallon of boiling water, and add a wineglassful of 
petroleum on removing from the fire, and work in briskly. Apply while 
hot (130°) with a brush, using the implement at an angle of 45°, to the 
branch, so that the bristles may get under the scale and dislodge it; 
then the eggs as well as parent insect comes to grief. Merely drawing 
the brush over the growths as in painting is the way not to make the 
most of the dressing, but by pushing the brush forward or downward on 
the shoot or branch and at the angle named the scale cannot escape. 
Cherry House. —The trees having been pruned and dressed the 
house can now be closed for producing Cherries at the close of April or 
early in May. The treatment should be such as will not excite growth 
prematurely, therefore only allow a slow progression. A temperature 
of 40° to 45° at night and 50° by day will need to be maintained by 
artificial means, 'When the external conditions, however, are favourable 
a few degrees higher may safely be permitted, but anything calculated 
to bring the trees on too quickly must be carefully guarded against, as 
undue excitement at the commencement is likely to prove injurious to 
the crops. Ventilate at 50° just a little at the apex to insure a change 
of atmosphere, freely at 55°, allowing an advance to 65° or 70° with sun, 
and closing at 55°. Maintain a moderate amount of atmospheric 
moisture by syringing occasionally, but in all cases allow the trees to 
become dry before night. It is highly important that the borders be 
thoroughly moist, as when the trees are excited into growth fresh roots 
will speedily follow, and to encourage them moisture (but not sodden¬ 
ness) is absolutely essential. Keep a sharp look out for aphides, and 
fumigate upon the appearance of the first insect. 
Vines. —Earliest Forced Planted-out Vines .—The house containing 
Vines from which ripe Grapes are expected in May should be closed by 
the middle of the month, especially if the Vines are young, vigorous, 
and not been subjected to early forcing before, as they do not break so 
freely as old ones that have been forced for a number of years. With a 
view of economising fire heat, and to produce a congenial atmosphere, a 
good bed or ridge of fermenting materials, consisting of two parts leaves 
and one of stable litter, may be placed upon the border, and turned at 
short intervals, additions being made as the heat declines. Young 
canes ought to be suspended in a horizontal position, but old rods may 
be tied up to the wires. Syringe the Vines two or three times a day 
with water slightly in advance of the temperature of the house, but it 
is well to allow them to become dry at least once in the twenty-four 
hours, especially at night. Keep the temperature at the start at 50° 
to 55° at night, and 65° on fine days, the temperature by artificial means 
in the day being 55° until the Vines begin to move. See that inside 
borders are properly moistened. 
Strawberries In Pots. —Introduce a number of the earliest plants 
—those with well-developed crowns, and having been rested some time. 
These should be of the earliest varieties, such as John Ruskin, La Grosse 
Sucrde, and Vicomtesse Hericart de Thury. They ought to be given a 
position well up to the glass in a light, airy, well heated house facing 
the south. The old dead leaves only should be removed, the surface of 
the soil be freed from moss and other matter, the drainage seen to and 
if need be rectified, washing the pots quite clean, and giving a top- 
dressing of some approved fertiliser, about half a teaspoonful if a 
powerful one, or a full measure if not highly concentrated. This may 
