December 11, 1894. 
JOURNAL^ OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
551 
be supplemeated if there be space in the pots with a little fresh rich 
soil. Make a close scrutiny for aphides, and if there be the least trace 
of them fumigate the house on two or three consecutive evenings, and 
keep a sharp look out for the pests afterwards, taking prompt measures 
to annihilate them on their appearance. A temperature of 50° by 
artificial means is quite ample to begin with, ventilating freely at 55°, 
and not allowing an advance to or above 65° without full ventilation. 
Sprinkle the plants in the morning and early afternoon of bright days, 
omitting it in dull; but a genial atmosphere should be maintained by 
damping the floor and walls occasionally. Water will only be required 
at the roots to keep the soil moist, a very wet condition being quite as 
mimical as allowing the plants to suffer through want of water. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Carnations.— Plants in pots that have produced abundance of 
flower buds should be kept in a cool airy structure if a few flowers only 
at a time are required. While the present genial weather continues 
they will open sufficiently fast, unless a large supply is needed at one 
particular time. Under these circumstances Miss Jolliffe and other 
similar kinds may be placed in gentle warmth, in which they will soon 
expand their delicate pink flowers. When heat is used the flowers are 
much paler in colour. A few plants introduced at intervals will 
continue to produce a good supply of blooms for buttonholes and sprays. 
After the plants have done flowering and cuttings are required from 
them they should be hardened again to cool airy quarters. The Margaret 
type can be pushed on to suit individual requirements, because when 
the plants have flowered they can be thrown away. Young plants 
of Miss Jolliffe or other winter-flowering varieties should not be allowed 
to become root-bound, but as soon as they are ready for potting be 
placed in pots of a larger size. Well established plants of Uriah Pike, 
Mrs. Reynolds Hole, and others for spring flowering, now in 2J-inch 
pots, should be placed at once into 5-inch pots, and stood in a frame or 
pit close to the glass, where they will continue to grow slowly. Water 
Carnations with care, for on no account ought they to be overwatered. 
Those that have filled their pots with roots may be given clear soot 
water every time they need supplies. 
Cyclamens. —If these are in a backward condition, and a few 
plants are needed in flower, they may be introduced into a temperature 
ot 55°. If placed fairly close to the glass they will soon produce their 
useful flowers. Plants not required in bloom should occupy a cool, 
airy position ; they are best standing on some moisture-holding base, 
providing care is taken that they do not damp. Young plants in small 
pots should be kept close to the glass, where they will continue to grow 
slowly. Care is needed that they do not become dry, or that their 
foliage is drawn up weakly. If seed has not been sown no time should 
be lost. The seed may be sown in pans, lightly covered with fine soil, 
gently watered, and then covered with a square of glass and placed 
where the temperature ranges from 60° to 65°. When the seedlings 
are up the pan containing them should be placed on a shelf fairly 
close to the glass until they are large enough for transplanting singly 
into either small pots or other pans; the last is best, as they are less 
liable to become dry. 
rreeslas.— Those potted early will now be showing their flower 
stems, and may, if needed in bloom as soon as possible, be placed on a 
shelf close to the glass where the temperature ranges about 55°. Unless 
the flowers are required in quantity a dozen pots will be ample in 
flower at one time. When these are fairly well advanced other plants 
can be introduced. Keep the main stock of these plants on shelves close 
to the glass in a cool, airy structure. 
Primula obconlca.— This is not only useful for decoration in pots, 
but the flowers are serviceable in a cut condition for small glasses. Where 
these have been kept perfectly cool the plants will be producing their 
trusses, and may, if needed, be advanced more rapidly by placing them 
for a time in an intermediate temperature. These plants quickly come 
into flower, and may be introduced according to requirements. 
Coronllla glauca. —This is a useful plant in a 6 or 6-inch pot, and 
is very effective when covered with its small trusses of yellow flowers. 
Plants that have been grown outside during the summer will be well 
ripened, and will flower profusely. The plants bear gentle forcing without 
injury, and can be brought into flower in a very short time. 
Epacrls.— If these are not yielding flowers sufficiently fast in the 
greenhouse a few of the forwardest may be gently forced ; but too much 
heat must not be employed to bring them in flower. When the plants 
are in bloom they should not be stood in conservatories on a dry base or 
else they will be seriously injured. 
Erica by emails.— As soon as the earliest plants go out of bloom cut 
them over and remove any fading flowers that are left. Place the 
plants in the greenhouse until they have started into growth, when they 
may be repotted if necessary. This plant does not bear even gentle 
forcing ; when this is practised the flowers are small and colourless. 
Erica candldlsslma. —Plants that were cut back late in the season, 
and have now fully 1 inch of young growth upon them should if in the 
ordinary trade size be placed into 7-inch pots. If carefully watered 
they will he useful for another year. 
Xvy-leaved Pelargoniums.— The flowers of these are very useful, 
and many of them are more delicate in colour than Zonals. Plants that 
have been grown outside and stored in a cool house will quickly unfold 
their flowers. Some of the delicate pink kinds are charming for table 
decoration. If the plants have filled their pots with roots give them a 
little chemical manure on the surface, and this may be repeated at 
intervals of about a fortnight. 
Iillacs.— Plants that are well set with buds and have been standing 
outside may be introduced into brisk heat. If possible plunge the pots 
where the bottom heat will range from 80° to 85°, and if the tempera¬ 
ture of the house averages about 70° the plants will soon produce their 
flowers. When they are fairly well advanced, remove to cooler quarters. 
If the flowers open in a lower and more airy temperature they last much 
longer when cut, and are more fragrant. 
Iilly of tbe Valley.— Single crowns in pots, pans, or boxes may be 
placed into a ibrisk heat. The propagating frame, where abundance of 
bottom heat can be given and the crowns excluded from light, is an 
excellent place to start them. 
APIARIAN NOTES. 
The Lanarkshire Storifying Hive. 
{^Continued from page 528.) 
A BOARD for boring and grooving is required, and to make this 
take a piece of wood about 2 by 6 inches broad, nail in front of it 
another piece 4 inches long by half inch thick, then take a pattern 
bar, lay it close to it, and close behind another similar piece. This 
now forms the gauge for the length of the bar, and every bar must 
fit into this space lengthways ; at the left and right sides the pieces 
are nailed close to the pattern bar, now ready to be grooved 
accurately. Before grooving they should be bored. In the front 
and at the right side of grooving board drive in a nail without a 
head, then behind it fix a cleat of half-inch wood, and into this 
screw a button to come over the nail. This holds the bar down when 
withdrawing the bit, while the nail acts as a gauge, so that when 
the bit passes through the bar it goes right into the hole, which is 
accurately cut. To make the ends of the frame square, put a piece 
of wood a little short of the exact length between them, taking the 
under corners off so that glue does not adhere. When driving in 
the ends dip the tenon in glue and hold this squared board hard 
to them, after which turn the hollow side of the frame towards 
you, and at the right hand side in the centre of the end piece, but 
near the lower end of the bar, make an awl hole for the tacket. 
The two upper divisions of the hive are hinged at the back 
with 1^ back-flap hinges, the knuckle or joint being kept down to 
the lower box, otherwise the screws would be apt to damage the 
hive. About 3 inches from the front clamps or hooks and eyes of 
some sort are used to keep them down. I use brass clamps, then 
to make all secure immediately behind these clamps a piece of 
galvanised hooping with two holes in each end passes from 
3 or more inches down the stand, and to the same distance up the 
super protector. This when in transit makes it impossible for the 
divisions to move or the bees to escape. Two stout handles are 
fixed to the middle divisions for carrying them. A wire holds 
the flight boards rigid, and as folded, fig. 88, shows it, the hooks 
entering the little staples in tbe side of the hive. The under 
division is clamped to the stand with brass or galvanised pieces 
about 5 inches long by 1^ inch broad, two nails into the hive and 
two into stand making it secure. 
The stand is an important part of the hive. It is the same 
size as the other parts except the ends, which are flush with the 
sides for the purpose of allowing the feet to be fixed at the extreme 
angles to give stability. The only thing beyond the two clamps 
in the centre of the sides fixed to it is the plate indicating number 
and weight of the hive. They are made from brass or zinc, and 
fixed underneath the flight board close to the foot The metal 
is cut to the size of glass to be used. After the metal has had an 
incision three-eighths of an inch from the top it is laid on, and 
held in the left hand, while with the right one the sides are bent 
over. Then the top is turned down, which, when properly made 
is watertight; the glass being cleaned, and the name written on 
paper, both are put into the little frame. The latter, being deeper 
than the glass, is pinched to prevent it falling out. 
The sides are G inches deep, and the feet beneath them 2J inches. 
They should be red pine or larch, and reach to the top of the 
stand. Mine are 2^ inches broad by inch thick, and are nailed 
