Docember 20, ISSi. 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
573 
WORK.foi\.theWEEK.. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Vines. —Early Forced in Pots .—The chief art in forcing Vines in 
pots is maintaining a steady progress, and giving effect to the crop 
existing in embryo by judicious feeding and management. Where 
fermenting material is used in the pits, and the pots are placed on brick 
pedestals, frequent additions of fresh sweetened leaves and litter can 
and should be made as the heat declines, keeping the heat about the 
pots at between 70° and 75°. The temperature having been gradually 
raised, after the buds commenced swelling, from 55°, so as to have it 
60° to 65° at night by the time they are coming into leaf, and an 
advance of 5° to 10° allowed by day, the Vines will be progressing 
steadily and be able to appropriate nourishment, provided care has been 
taken to admit a little air at 70°, and close early with sun heat. The 
leaves will attain considerable consistence under those conditions, and 
on their conformation their elaborative power chiefly depends. Disbud 
as soon as the bunches can be detected, reserving the most promising, 
but not burdening the Vines with many more than will be required for 
the crop. Stop the shoots about two joints beyond the bunches. The 
laterals or growths on the current year’s wood may be removed up to 
the bunches, and those allowed to extend should be above the fruit, 
permitting such extension as the space admits without crowding, as it 
is important that the foliage retained have full exposure to light for the 
due performance of its functions. A couple or three joints of lateral 
extensions are generally all that can be allowed Vines in pots, and this 
is quite suflBcient for the due perfecting of the crop, 
With fermenting materials a genial warmth and moisture will be 
constantly evolved, with a certain amount of ammonia, which, whether 
assimilated or not, is certainly good for the Vines and inimical to 
insects. The moisture needed artificially under such conditions will be 
considerably lessened, yet the paths and walls should be sprinkled in 
the morning and afternoon, also in breezy bright weather just before 
dusk in the evening. Evaporation troughs (if any) should be filled with 
weak guano water, say 1 lb. to 20 gallons, always straining it, and 
where there are not such means of modifying the dry artificial heat and 
fermenting materials are not used, the floors may be sprinkled with the 
guano water two or three times a week after closing the house or early 
in the afternoon. 
Early Forced House ,—The buds of Vines started last month, or 
those to which fire heat has been applied from the commencement of 
this, will now show signs of swelling, when raise the temperature 2° or 
3° in the course of a few days, not exceeding 60° to 65° by artificial 
means until the Vines come into leaf. In forcing against time it is 
necessary to induce growth by a brisk moist heat of 70° to 75°, con¬ 
tinuing this until the buds have broken and the Vines fairly started 
growing, when the temperature should be allowed to fall to 60° to 65° at 
night, with 5° to 10° rise in the daytime, it being important whilst the 
foliage is being made that a moderate temperature be employed, and air 
admitted on all favourable occasions, in order to secure short-jointed 
sturdy wood and stout, well-developed foliage. Such practice, however, 
must only be exercised where the Vines are thoroughly established, and 
have had a good rest. Young Vines require more heat than those that 
have been regularly forced to start them, and they will need the canes 
brought down to a horizontal position to insure their breaking regularly. 
The inside borders must be brought into a proper state of moisture by 
the application of tepid water or liquid manure when the Vines are 
weakly. Avoid, however, making the soil sodden, as the Vines will not 
root well in such, but there will possibly follow a lankness of growth 
and looseness of bunch which usually culminates in shanking. The 
outside border should have such protection as necessary to prevent the 
soil becoming frozen. Where fermenting materials are employed they 
must not be allowed to become cool, but should have fresh material 
added and spent removed as required, so as to maintain a genial warmth, 
otherwise chill will be productive of more harm than the material 
rightly used confers benefit. 
Midseason Houses .—Push forward the pruning of the Vines as they 
become cleared of the Grapes, for there is nothing like a long and 
complete rest for Vines, which early pruning in a great measure secures. 
The Vines ought to be dressed, removing the old loose bark, for it does 
nothing but harbour vermin, yet not going to the opposite extreme 
of peeling and scraping into the quick or live bark. Wash the rods 
with a softsoapy solution, 4 ozs. to a gallon of water being strong 
enough, or with an insecticide properly diluted. Such rightly 
administered—that is, with a stiffish brush, and every angle, crevice, 
and hole reached into thoroughly, taking care not to damage the buds, 
are all that is required. The house also should be thoroughly cleansed, 
for it is essential that nothing be left undone which in the coming 
season is of consequence to the health of the Vines. All insects or eggs 
now cleared away mean the prevention of new colonies in the coming 
year on the Vines, from which they derive their subsistence, and it is 
far better to prevent than have to cure diseases. The loose inert soil 
should be removed and fresh loam supplied, with an admixture of about 
one-fourth of well decayed manure, a sprinkling of charcoal and old 
mortar rubbish being incorporated with the loam and manure, then a 
good handful per square yard of the advertised fertilisers sprinkled on 
the top will put food into the soil ready for the Vine roots to lay hold 
of in the next season of growth. Liquid manure may be usefully given 
when the soil is dry or even moist, provided always that the soil is not 
made sodden. Keep the houses cool and dry until the time arrives for 
starting. If they must be used for plants keep the temperature at 40° 
to 45° by artificial means. More heat interferes with the resting of the 
Vines, and in a mean temperature of 50° they start into growth. 
Late Grapes .—The bunches should be examined at least twice a 
week for decayed berries, and the house kept as cool and dry as con¬ 
sistent with the safety and preservation of the fruit. With the Grapes 
thoroughly finished, and the Vines leafless, a temperature of 50° is 
suitable until the time arrives for bottling. Any degree much below 
that is liable to cause mould and decay, and fire heat, especially at night, 
will undoubtedly cause the berries to shrivel immediately after the fall 
of the foliage. Some Grapes improve in quality after this is gone, such 
as Gros Colman, which requires the most time on the Vines, while some 
soon pass into a red colour and shrivelled condition, especially Mrs. 
Pince, after the leaves are gone. No further time should be lost in 
getcing the Grape-room ready for the stock of keeping Grapes, which, 
as a rule, would be cleared off the Vines not later than the first week in 
January, expelling damp from it by the needful firing and ventilation. 
The Grapes keep better in a suitable room than on the Vines exposed to 
light, and they lose very little more weight cut than hanging, whilst the 
losses from decay are reduced to a minimum. Bottling affords relief 
to the Vines, insuring that perfect rest so essential to their well-doing. 
It also admits of the Vines being started earlier in the spring, and this 
gives the kinds that require a long time of growth the full benefit of the 
summer’s sun—its light and its warmth—when utilised by early closing, 
so that the Grapes may be ripened perfectly before September is out. 
Cucumbers. —The night temperature should be kept steady at 
60° to 65°, and the day at 70° to 75°, being very careful in the 
admission of air. though a little should be given to clear the glass 
of condensed moisture and admit all the light possible. Though a 
change of air is desirable it is advisable to secure it without draughts 
and unduly lowering the temperature, this being often done by 
frequently opening the door in severe weather, which should be 
obviated by having the thermometer so fixed that it can be seen from 
the outside. A mat suspended over the door is also useful in preventing 
a rush of air outwards and consequent inrush of cold air when the door 
is opened. Remove all superfluous fruits from the plants immediately 
they show, also staminate flowers and tendrils, and tie up all shoots to 
the trellis as they require it. Encourage vigorous growth, on which 
stopping should be moderately practi.-ed, otherwise very little stopping 
will be required. Should mildew appear, dust the affected parts with 
flowers of sulphur, and maintain a somewhat dry atmosphere. For red 
spider and white fly brush the hot-water pipes with a thin cream formed 
of skim milk and sulphur. If green or black aphides attack the plants 
dust with tobacco powder, or if fumigation be resorted to, it must be 
done with great care and judgment, it being advisable to fumigate in 
the evening and repeat in the morning about daybreak. 
Prepare some Oak or Beech leaves with a third of stable manure by 
throwing them into a heap and damping if necessary, throwing the 
material when it has become warmed through outside to inside, and 
watering if necessary, so as to secure an even and thorough fermentation 
of the whole, with which a hotbed is to be made at the end of this 
month or beginning of the new year to raise Cucumber plants from 
seed, also Melons, and subsequently to make beds for planting them in. 
The better the materials are sweetened, but not overmuch wetted and 
decayed, the more satisfactory heating and the better results in the 
quickest time will follow. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Panlcum varlegatum. —Cuttings of these may be inserted thickly 
together in 3-inch pots and placed in handlights in a warm house. 
They will soon be rooted and ready for decorative purposes early in the 
season. Few plants form a neater or more effective margin to a house 
of Palms or other foliage plants than these; a few plants dotted here 
and there are not particularly pleasing, but a good row adds materially 
to the appearance of the structure. 
Gardenias. —Young plants that were rooted in thumb pots some 
time ago should be placed at once into 3-inch pots. They will continue 
to grow slowly, and will be ready for 5-inch pots early in the season. 
Keep the young plants in a temperature of 60° to 65°. Pinch the points 
out of the shoots to induce them to branch. 
Veronica Andersonl varlegata.— For large conservatories where 
flowering plants do not do well this will be found a useful plant during 
the winter months. Soft growing shoots will root freely now if inserted 
in sandy soil and placed in handlights in a heated structure. In one 
season they will grow into bushy plants if repotted, as they need 
root room, and their shoots are pinched occasionally. They are also very 
effective grown as small standards with legs about 18 inches high. 
They grow into decorative plants quicker than Euonymus latifolia 
variegata, and are nearly as effective amongst other plants. 
Xlbonlas. —Where good plants of these are appreciated 1 foot high 
and as much through them, cuttings should be rooted early. If one or 
two plants are cut over now and placed into heat they will soon produce 
good cuttings, which should be inserted and rooted at once. If potted 
on as they need root room, and the shoots pinched occasionally until the 
plants are placed into 5 and 6-inch pots, they will be fine bushes by 
autumn, and if well ripened they will flower profusely. 
