1867.1 
AMERICAN AORICULTURIST. 
239 
cares admit of. Rutabagas will make a good crop 
sowed before the 15th or ‘iOth—better for the table 
than if sowed earlier. They do best in drills, 
too, thinned to 6 or 8 inches apart. In sowing 
turnips broadcast, u.sc as little seed as possible. 
One pound to the acre, if It can be evenly distribu¬ 
ted, is better than more, though two pounds is the 
usual quantity. Sod land, or newly broken up 
land, should be plowed repeatedly and harrowed, 
to rot and kill sods and weeds, then freshly har¬ 
rowed before the seed is sown. 
Bitckirheat U a valuable crop, especially as a weed 
killer. Three pecks of seed Is enough for good 
land; more is required on poor. Sow about the 
middle of the mouth, and see article on page 253. 
Tobacco .—The cultivation of this crop adds great¬ 
ly to the cares and labors of July. Not a weed must 
be allowed to grow. Missing plants, and those des¬ 
troyed by the cut worm, may be reset during the 
first part of this mouth to advantage. Every plant 
and leaf even must be examined for leaf worms, 
and topping should commence as soon as plants 
begin to run up. Break the tops off or pinch out 
the “ button ” just above the broad leaves. It may 
be done as soon as the tlower stem can be taken 
hold of without Injury to the upper leaves. The 
“ suckers,” or axillary branches, will start, after 
this, at once, and must be kept pinched off. 
Cabbages .—Set out cabbages on 4and left vacant 
by early potatoes and peas, or on fallow ground 
well worked, limed and dunged. Keep well hoed. 
Soilmg Crops—Corn, soi^hum, peas and oats, 
etc., may be sowed, for soiling, any time this month. 
Butter.—U the feed is good, the butter may be 
equal to that made last month, provided the dairy 
is cool, or, rather, of the right temperature, which 
is about 58° to 60° Fahrenheit. If the pastures 
arc short and dry, feed green fodder freely—corn, 
sorghum, etc. It may be necessary to increase the 
salt in the butter a little iu the hottest weather. 
Ditching .—Times of unusual, or even of usual, 
summer dryness, may often be most profitably 
employed in ditching and draining swamps, cutting 
the bogs, and drjing and burning the same. 
Orcliar«l and Nursery* 
The promise for fruit is everywhere good; even 
Btaches, so often a failure, bid fair to be abun¬ 
dant Old trees, that have not borne in years, arc 
now well set with young fruit. 
Thinning is now of the greatest importance. A 
well grown peach or pear is better, and will bring 
more in the market, than three half developed ones. 
It is often advisable to trke off from one-half to 
three-fourths of the young fruit Not only is the 
present season’s crop all the better in quality, 
but that of the next year is more sure. 
Insects. —The whole array of tent-catei-pillars, 
borers, currant worms, pear slugs, and the like, is to 
Ik; fought pcrseveringly. It is unnecessary to re¬ 
peat the remedies given in the preceding months. 
Pruning may still be done, according to the hints 
given last month, and on young trees future prun¬ 
ing avoided by rubbing off superfluous shoots. 
Biulding will commence with the cherry and 
plum The time varies with the season and locality. 
When well formed bud.s can be obtained, and the 
iKirk of the stock parts readily from the wood, the 
operation may be performed. 
Layers may be put down as soon as the present 
season’s growth gets firm. Very good grape vines 
may be made by carefully laying the shoots of the 
present summer. Do not do it to c.xccss. 
Young Orchards, when root crops arc not grown 
between the rows, should be thoroughly cultivated, 
unless the ground is regularly mulched. 
Grafts should be looked after, all robber shoots 
be rubbed off, and if any of the shoots on the graft 
are too i-ampant,thcy should be stopped by pinching. 
Seed beds will need the shading and care suggested 
last month, and 
Seeds collected as they ripen. Cherry pits arc to 
b« washed clean and preserved in sand. 
Fruit Garden. 
Picking of the small fruits will now occupy 
much of the grower’s attention. That which is to 
be marketed must bo picked before it is “dead 
ripe,” while that for home use may be allowed to 
reach full maturity before it is gathered. 
Nackbendes are gcnerallj’ allowed to have their 
own way too much, and they become very difficult 
to work amongst. The new caues should be stop¬ 
ped by pinching or cutting, when they get or 4 
feet high, and when the side branches are 18 inches 
long, these should be pinched in the same way. 
Baspberries .—As soon as the crop is off, cut away 
the old canes, and keep down all suckers not need¬ 
ed to furnish a stock of new plants. 
Currants arc to be watched, and the bushes dusted 
with white hellebore, if a late brood of worms ap¬ 
pears. See that the branches of those in the tree 
form do not break down from the weight of fruit. 
Dicarf Trees will need to have the fruit thinned, 
especially varieties producing that of a large size. 
Treat insects as heretofore directed. The red 
spider is often injurious to pear trees, and they 
should be drenched with strong soap suds on its 
first appearance. Control the form of the tree by 
rubbing out shoots not needed to form branches, 
and by shortening the growth of others. 
Grape Vines .—Do not allow young vines to over- 
be;ir. A desire to taste the fruit of one’s own vine 
is usually too strong to allow one to remove the 
first clusters. As a general thing, a vine should 
never be allowed to bear the first year. Upon the 
fii-st appearance of mildew—whitish spots upon the 
leaves—use sulphur freely. Pinch off bearing 
shoots at the third leaf from the last cluster, and 
pinch laterals to one leaf. By all means, have one 
of the many excellent Avorks on grape culture as a 
hand book for frequent consultation, 
Kitclicii Garden. 
These notes are written during the usual cold and 
wet spell early in June, when the ground is soaked 
by cold rains, and within doors a fire is not uncom¬ 
fortable. Early sowings, if the plants were up, have 
escaped, but seeds that were already in the ground, 
if at all delicate, will come slowly, and, in some 
cases, may rot altogether. It is not too late to re¬ 
plant many things, with a fair prospect of a crop, 
and to tliose who for any cause have been deprived 
of early vegetables, the late ones will be welcome. 
Transplanting of the late crops of cabbage, cauli- 
tloAV'er, celerv, etc., will be done this month. See 
hints given last month on page 221. Occupy the 
Vacant places with quick growing or late matur¬ 
ing crops, as recommended on page 2.50. 
. 4 sprtrrt; 7 iw.—The cutting has greatly exhausted 
the roots, and the aim should now be to promote a 
growth of tops, to give them strength for another 
season’s effort. Manuring Avill pay now as Avell as 
at any other time. If the beetle appears, a small 
black beetle and black grub—there Avill be no diffi¬ 
culty in recognizing them—cut and burn, if it takes 
the whole crop of tops. You will lose your own 
crop at any rate, and it will be a satisfaction to know 
that you have done your part in preventing the pest 
from spreading to the gardens of your neighbors. 
Plant string varieties for succession and 
pickles. Keep the running sorts, such as Limas 
and other pole varieties, at a moderate height. Six 
or seven feet is high enough. 
Beets will make a crop if sown now, unless an 
unusually dry spell should occur. The thinnings 
of beets, at any season, make capital greens, and are 
by many preferred to any others. Collect and wash, 
and they will keep good for several days. 
Cabbage, Caidiflower, and all their relatives, that 
have been sown in open ground for a late crop, may 
now be transplanted. It is said that a plenty of 
lime on the land Avill prevent club-foot. In trans¬ 
planting, put out only perfect plants. It often 
happens that plants from the seed-bed have diseased 
roots or malformed tops. All such should bo re¬ 
jected. If slugs are troublesome, as they often are 
in wet seasons, use lime, or turn the ducks in 
among them. 
Celery .—There are many who prefer to grow in 
trenches. Such should gradually earth up the 
plants. The crop for winter is best set this month. 
In the flat culture, practiced by our market gar¬ 
deners, they put out the plants by the middle of this 
month, in rows three feet apart, and the plants six 
inches distant. The earthing up of these plants 
is done later in the season 
Can-ots need only to be kept clear of weeds until 
the tops become too large to work amongst. 
Corn .—Every one who loves sweet corn should 
provide for a late supply. Seed sown even now 
will give ears for late use, and to dry for winter. 
Cucumbers .—Select good specimens of the early 
sorts for seed, and if seed be sown now in well 
manured soil, there will be a good supply of pickles. 
Egg Plants .—These warm-blooded fellows need 
all the coaxing that can be given to them. Some¬ 
times a plant will content itself with producing one 
fruit, and its next neighbor will bear a half dozen. 
Hoe as often as may be, and give liquid manure 
Avhen the weather is not very dry. Keep the fruit 
from contact with the ground by a handful of 
mulch of some kind. Near the coast we use salt 
hay for this purpose, but any other material, even 
a shingle or tile, will answer as well. ' 
Endive .—The main crop of this desirable late 
salad may be sown. It is treated, as far as sowing 
and planting are concerned, just like lettuce, 
but before it is used it must be bleached, by exclu¬ 
sion of light. This is done by tying the leaves to¬ 
gether, by covering the separate plants with a^ 
floAver pot, or by putting a board over a Avhole row. 
He/-5s.—The time to cut these is just as they 
come into flower, as at that period of their growth 
they are iu full perfection. Our market gardeners, 
however, pay no regard to the flowering period; 
they have seed beds of Thyme,Sweet Marjoram,Sum¬ 
mer Savory, and Sage, from which they take plants 
during the present month, and set them in rows a 
foot apart each way. Keep well cultivated. 
Lettuce.—The Silesian will give a fair crop, if 
sown in a partially shaded place. 
Cultivate the soil as long as the vines 
will allow of its being done. More fruit is usually 
set than will ripen. Take off the late fruit and 
thus improA'e the quality of the rest. 
OfticMW.—Thin if crowded, and keep thoroughly 
Aveeded. If one has not the force to properly at¬ 
tend to the crop, he should not attempt to raise 
onions from seed on the large scale. 
Peas.—8ovr seed from the very best. A late sow¬ 
ing may be made for a venture, but we have never 
been very successful Avith late plantings of peas. 
Potatoes.—Dig the early sorts. Their tops^ make 
capital manure for late turnips, if buried in the 
rows as they are dug. Cabbages, turnips, late peas 
and beans, or spinach, may follow the early crop. 
Jihubarb.—CvLi off every flower stock as soon as 
it shows itself. Now that fruit is plenty, the bed 
should have a rest. 
keds —Gather as soon as they ripen. Cabbage, 
iumbers, peas, and others, should have been bai¬ 
ted by this time. Save the best of everything 
seed, if you raise your OAvn seed. If you can 
; do this, buy seed for sowing every year. 
^weet P>tato€s.-At the North it is not advisable 
let the vines root; at the South these roots from 
; stems form potatoes. We have to get our po- 
oes from the main plant. Our climate does not 
3 W us to make layers. Hence our advice to move 
. tops while the plants are growing. Keep the 
)und well worked, and free from Aveeds. 
Squashes.-Y^ory one who grows squashes, to any 
tent, will have Mr. Gregory’s work on Ins favor- 
Biibiect They will And there set forth the ne- 
j8itv of high manuring the whole ground for the 
uning varieties, keeping this clean as long as 
ssible. and then allowing the vines to root at the 
iuts. Insects, of course, must be killed as they 
near The more bugs the fewer squashes. 
Zbmatoes.-Except in nice garden culture, we cou- 
