AMERICAN AORICULTURIST. 
r347 
Draining .—As men can be spared from other 
work, and as others can be hired, get at the drains. 
There Is hardly a farm in tlie United States, except 
those on gravel banks, or with leachy subsoil, that 
might not, in spots at least, be underdniincd to ad¬ 
vantage. Calculate to drain permanent meadows 
at least three feet deep, better deeper, and all land 
that will ever be plowed, not less than four feet on 
an average. See article in the September number. 
Granaries .—Clean out, and make vermin proof in 
some way—best by setting them on posts capped 
with flat stones or tin pans. After grain is in, care 
must be incessantly exercised, lest by some heed¬ 
lessness the steps arc left down, or in some other 
way mice get in. After that, trapping, fumigation, 
etc., must be resorted too, and these are always 
uncertain in operation. 
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The late ripening fruits will need attention. Ap- 
jiles and pears, while they should be left on the tree 
as long .as they derive any benefit from it, ought 
not to be exposed to frosts. Tl»e .appearances that at¬ 
tend perfect maturity arc easily learned by a little 
observation. The tree ripens its wood and leaves, 
and the latter part from the twig with a slight pull. 
So with the fruit; its stem readily severs its con¬ 
nection with the tree. Careful picking is necessary 
to good keeping. None but a vandal will ever pull 
the stem from a fruit. Ladders and fruit pickers 
have heretofore been described in great variety. 
Whether the fruit l.s picked into b.a.=!ket3 or bags, 
assort it at once into barrels, putting in the fruit .as 
closely as possible. Avoid all unnecessary handling, 
ns the waxy exudation or bloom natural to many 
varieties not only improves the appearance, but 
aids in the keeping of the fruit. The practice of 
using packing material is now generally abandoned. 
The barrels arc filled about an inch above the chine, 
and the head brought down by pressure. A simple 
lever press will accomplish this, or some of the 
screw pressc.s sold for the puqio.se may be used. 
The fruit, after being packed, should be kept as 
cool as possible without freezing. We have before 
insisted on the ndvant.age of assorting fruit. Of 
apples, intended for sale, never put but one kind in 
a barrel Treat winter pears in the same w.ay. 
Draining .—Nothing is more e.sscntial to success 
in orchard culture than draining, .and nothing is 
more generally neglected. Drains m.ay be made 
between the rows in young orchards and in land 
intended to be set with trees next spring. 
AtUnmn Planting is advi.sable in localities where 
a mild season m.ay be depended upon. At all events, 
order trees in the autumn, a.s a better assortment 
is to be had, and there arc fewer risks in transport¬ 
ation at this season. If the hand is not in readi¬ 
ness, or it is not thought best to idant this fall. 
Heel-in the trees, and they will be at hand for set¬ 
ting In early spring. In hecling-in, select a diy 
and rather sbeltcrcil place, and open a trench. In 
this put the trees in a sloping direction, and as they 
are placed in the trench, fill all tlic spaces among 
the roots with fine, mellow soil. Bank up the earth 
to a depth that will protect the roots from freezing, 
and slope it to carry off rain. 
Ckler, to be good, should be made from perfectly 
clean and sound fruit. Cleanliness is to be observ¬ 
ed in ever}' step of the process. Ferment slowly 
in a cool cellar, and when fermentation is over, 
bung tightly,and when the cider becomes clear, rack 
it off into clean casks. Where vinegar is the ob¬ 
ject, so much pains need not be taken. After the 
elder is fermented, the addition of some old vin¬ 
egar, or “mother,” and free access of air in .a warm 
place, will hasten the conversion into vinegar. 
Apple Jelly may be made by carefully evaporating 
nnfermented apple juice. Some of the sorghum 
pans are found useful for this. 
Drying of Fruit should be hurried up. If there 
is no drying-house, it will p.ay to put up a stove in 
a spare room, and subject the fruit to a fire hc.at 
on rainy and cloudy days. 
Bttds are to be looked to, as in a warm autumn 
the stocks will continue to grow, and the bandages 
must be loosened. 
Nursery Stock should receive a fall manuring. In 
the best nurseries a plow is run between the rows, 
and manure is placed in the furrow, and covered. 
Seeds are saved from the pomace where a large 
quantity is wanted. Wash out, dry in thin layers, 
stirring now and then, and keep in a cool place. 
For the home nursery let all the family save the 
seeds of the apples and pears they consume. Have 
a bo.x of sand in some handy place where they may 
be deposited, and a lai^e quantity will accumulate. 
Orchards may receive a top-dressing of compost. 
Omame7}tal Deciduous Trees are to be planted or 
heeled-in as suggested above for fruit trees. 
Labels are to be looked to, and if any arc so 
weather-worn that they arc likely soon to be ef¬ 
faced, replace them by new ones. 
Fruit Oardeii. 
Prepare the ground for new plantings. Drain, 
work deep with the spade or plow, manure, and 
get the land in the best possible condition. 
Planting may be done or not; this is a question of 
locality. In mild regions, cultivatora prefer autumn 
for blackberry and raspberry, for the reason that 
the shoots start so early in the sjiring that there is 
<langer of breaking them in handling. 
Currants and Goosebendes are readily propagated 
by cutting.s. These are to be made a.s soon as the 
leaves are off. Cut them about 6 inches long, and 
place them in shallow trenches. Put the cuttings 
about 4 inches apart, with an inch or so above the 
surface. Press the earth firmly around the lower 
end, and Avhen the earth is filled in, cover them 
with litter or leaves to prevent injury by frosts. 
Grapes are to be picked, whether for market or 
for wine, according to hints given on subsequent 
pages. As soon as the leaves fall, the vines may 
receive their fall pruning. If it is desired to use 
the primings for propagation, cut them into suitable 
lengths and bury them in an accessible place. 
Root Cuttings of blackberries and raspberries 
may be made. Cut the roots in pieces 2 or 3 inch¬ 
es long, place them in a box with alternate layers 
of soil, and bury the box below the reach of frost 
in a well drained place. See article in October last 
for details. 
Raspberries of the tender sorts should not be laid 
down too early; delay it until there is danger that 
the ground may become frozen. 
Kitchen Garden. 
The gardener will find plenty to do this month 
in securing and marketing his crops, or in storing 
them for winter,and in preparing his land for spring. 
P'eser»ing Vegetables from frost and decay during 
the cold mouths is next in iiirportanee to produc¬ 
ing them. Small quantities of roots may be kept 
in a cool cellar, and will be all the better if they 
arc covered with earth or sand. When a large 
qu.antlty is to be kept it is best to make pits out- 
of-doors. Select a dry spot and dig a pit 3 or 4 feet 
deep, G feet wide, and of the necessary length. 
The roots, when dug, are throw'n into heaps and cov¬ 
ered with a few inches of soil to prevent freezing. 
When heavy frosts occur, pack them in the pit; 
put in two feet of roots, leave a space of six inch¬ 
es, and then put in a section of two feet more of 
roots and so on. The spaces left between the sec¬ 
tions arc to be tilled up with earth, so that the 
trench will be filled with alternate layers of roots 
and earth. Cover the whole with a mound of earth 
about two feet high, so rounded as to shed water. 
A pit of this kind can be opened, and a portion,of 
its contents removed without disturbing the rest. 
In this manner beets, turnips, carrots, parsnips, 
horseradish, etc., may be kept until wanted. Suc¬ 
cess, however, will in good part depend on thoi - 
oughly draining all the water away from the pit. 
P-eijaration of Soil.—H land now in sod is to be 
used for a garden next spring, spread on a liberal 
dressing of manure and turn over the sod with a 
I ’ * ^ 
shallow, flat furrow. Other lands, especially if at 
all stiff, may be plowed into ridges and left to 
the ameliorating influence of winter. 
Draining is almost always needed, and if the soil 
is at all wet, will be an imperative necessity. 
Asparagus .—Cut and burn the tops and cover the 
beds with coarse manure. 
Beets should not be exposed to hard frosts. Store 
in the cellar, or in pits, as directed above. 
Cabbages . — Set the young plants, from seed sown 
last month, in cold frames. A simple frame Is made 
of planks nailed to posts, the planks at the rear 
being 1 foot w’ide, and those at the front 8 inches. 
It should be wide enough for the sash at hand, and 
as long as desirable ; of course the ends must be 
closed and the earth banked around the outside of 
the frame. Set the plants 2j^ inches apart each 
way, down to the first leaf, to cover all the stem. 
The sash ‘should not be put on until freezing 
weather. Winter cabbages arc best preserved by 
pulling them before the ground freezes, inverting 
them on a level piece of ground, and then covering 
the heads with earth by use of the plow or spade, 
to the depth of 4 or 6 inches. 
Cauliflowers . — Set young plants of early sorts in 
frames, as directed for cabbages. Store in a light cel¬ 
lar those which have not yet developed their heads. 
Celery .—Finish earthing up. Towards the end 
of the month put the roots away In trenches a foot 
wide, and deep enough to contain the plants. Pack 
them closely, and as the weather becomes colder, 
cover gradually Avith straiv or leaves. 
Leaves . — Gather as many as possible to use in hot¬ 
beds next spring, and to increase the manure heap. 
Lettuce for an early crop next spring is to be had 
from young plants wintered as directed for cabbage. 
Parsnips .—Dig what are wanted for winter use 
and preserve in the cellar or in pits, and leave the 
rest in the ground until spring. 
Horseradish .—Dig and preserve as other roots, 
first taking off the small roots to plant next spring. 
These are to be preserved in boxes Vith sand. 
Plantations are better made now than 
in spring; divide the old roots so as to leave a bud 
with each. Plant in rich soil, 3 feet apart each ivay. 
Salsify.—Dig what will be needed during the se¬ 
vere AV'eathcr, and leaA'c the rest in the ground. 
Spinach and other crops, to be wintered in the 
field, should be kept clear of late iveeds. 
Squashes .—Gather as soon as ripe, and avoid ex¬ 
posure to frost. Keep spread out for a few days 
to the sun before storing. Handle carefully. 
Store in a dry place where they will not freeze. 
Sioeet Potatoes.—Dig on a warm day, as soon as 
the vines are touched by frost, and alloAV them to 
dry off before housing. Handle carefully. Those 
for winter should be packed in dry, cut straw', or 
perfectly dry sand, and be kept w'here they w'ill be 
at an uniform temperature of about 60°. 
Flower Garden and Fawn. 
October usually brings us just the weather for 
all out-door w'ork. Neiv beds, walks, and other 
improvements in the grounds may be made, 
ground prepared for spring planting, deciduous 
trees set, draining and other heavy w’ork done. 
Rrennials of Avhich the clumps have become too 
large should be taken up, the mass divided into 
several parts by means of a sharp spade, and reset. 
This affords an excellent opportunity to exchange 
with, or give to, friends. Pteonies, especially, 
should be moved at this time, if at all. 
Bulbs in plenty will be appreciated next spring. 
A good, deep soil, enriched with coav manuie is 
best. Sec an article on page 368. 
Chrysantheimi’ins, — Keep neatly tied up or they 
will become straggling. Pot for blooming in doors. 
Some prefer to delay potting until they are in 
bloom, thinking that the plants receive less check 
at this time than when it is done earlier. 
Barksjwrs .—Wc seldom see beds of the Kocket 
Larkspur now-a-days. Seeds sown now will give 
a fine show in the spring. Indeed, most of the 
