30 
THE VOYAGE FROM NAPLES TO EAST AFRICA. 
as you like. We are somewhere east of Suez now, where “there 
ain't no ten commandments," and each man's personal opinion is his 
own affair. 
It is very glaring, very hot on the water front of Aden, and the 
prospect of a drive in one of the little, ramshackle, covered phaetons 
will be alluring, even if the horses are poor, dilapidated, ill-fed 
beasts who threaten to collapse before getting half the way. The 
callous indifference of the Orient to suffering in man or beast is 
creeping into your blood. The easy brutality of the tropics is becom¬ 
ing a part of you. Your grandfather was an abolitionist. Your 
father was the president of the S. P. C. A., but you are beginning 
to look on the clamorous encroaching crowd about you as “dirty 
niggers" to be beaten away if necessary, while the mangy, ill-fed 
cur who slinks from your path, and the gaunt, little horse who pre¬ 
pares to drag you on the sandy road are alike objects of indifference 
to you. 
STATUE OF QUEEN VICTORIA. 
You are glad of the pith helmet you bought at Port Said, glad 
of your thin white suit and the green-lined pongee umbrella your 
friend from India advised you to get as your rickety vehicle crawls 
noisily along the blazing, dusty stretch of road leading from the 
landing place. A fine marble statue of Queen Victoria stands out 
in the square, soaking in the hot sunshine till the stone surface fairly 
seems to sizzle. Other ships from India, China and Australia are 
in the harbor coaling, and their passengers are wandering about, 
pursued by importunate natives. A few English officials pass from 
building to building, so used both to natives and voyagers that they 
do not give either even the most cursory glance. 
Leaving this part of Aden behind us, we creak out across a 
bare tract toward the real Aden, which lies away from the harbor. 
Such quaint equipages, such marvelous people we see on this road! 
high, queer carts drawn by mules or camels, solitary horsemen on 
long-tailed Arab steeds, shrouded pedestrians, Jews with greasy, 
black curls and black head-pieces, turbaned specimens of every 
species of Arab or Hindu, stately Persians, Africans of many tribes, 
all are passing to and fro. 
